My MiniITX build will be all-Bykski except for the external radiator, tubing and liquid.
Cool. As luck would have it, I actually bookmarked their posting of all I looked at on AliExpress because it looked the most legit. Good feedback, lots of activity, reasonable prices. I appreciate the comment, thanks.
Yeah I discovered the same thing after buying a Bykski temperature display on ebay, they are made of aluminium and should only be used in an aluminium loop or a mixed loop with the right corrosion inhibitors (maybe Mayhems inhibitor+). I have no idea why Bykski do this rather than making them out of POM like Barrow do. POM is compatible with all types of loops.Hello. See if you can help me. I have this block:
Very happy, nice, works luxurious, and does suit well. I bought this add-on that advertised it with the block to monitor temperatures:
But I didn't dare put it on. It says literally "This component has aluminum that comes in contact with the coolant. You MUST use this in an aluminum compatible loop" which I didn't think when I bought it. The strange thing is that it only serves the Bykski blocks, and these are not aluminum, they are all Electroplated High Purity Copper, don't make sense, I don't understand. They even sell it in batch along with one of their copper blocks, like this:
Can someone explain to me how it's possible? Can I or can't I put this sensor without fear?
I have the previous version of the inline temperature display (not the V2). It's aluminium as well. The description says "aluminium+POM" but the body, including the inner threads is 100% aluminum. That's what tricked me, I expected the body to be POM and just the face plate to be aluminium like the Barrow units, but that's not the case.Thanks for answering. The truth is that it is very strange, the previous model of sensor of temperature was POM, but the V2 they sell now is aluminum. And I can't find the old model, although in Alliexpress it seems because of the photos that some sellers have it, when you contact them they tell you it's the V2. Too bad, I liked this addition.
Does the Mayhems inhibitor+ work well? With it, could you seamlessly mix that piece of aluminum with the rest of copper?
Could anyone confirm it's my fault to plug the led in the wrong place or it's the rgb led has problem?Does anyone have bad experience with the RGB led came with the gpu block? I purchased the N-GV1080G1-X for my gigabyte 1070 g1 gaming, plugged the rbg led in and it started smoking the moment i turned pc on. IDK it's my fault or it's the factory fault, i used the pin for rgb on the gpu board. After that the vga won't boot and it keeps flashing white light near the 8pins. I tested w the other card to and the psu is working just fine, i'm using fsp aurum pro 1200w, didn't have any problem so far. Anyway, since i can't RMA my card anymore so i went to the local and found that the RGB LED caused some shortage on the board n blew up one the chip.
The block itself is pretty cool, a bit dirty inside, i even found a small rat hair/some kinda of feather. But temp is great stable at 37*C max oc under max load.
Thank you for the sauce, i'm gonna try to get some sample or site that sell this chip. People said it's gonna really hard for me to get one.I looked at some reviews online and can confirm the chip that blew up is the Holtek HT32F52241 32-bit ARM Cortex-M0+ MCU, which Gigabyte uses for controlling the card's RGB effects (sauce).
Could you confirm which version have you bought? The waterblock has two versions, named "RBW and RGB". However the pinout is different: for the regular RGB (which the card supports), you have 12V+R+G+B pins, and for the RBW it depends as a matter of fact. Some have 3 PINs, some have 4 PINs (e.g. Aquacomputer RGBpx). I assume the Bykski RBW has 3-pins because I don' think their dRGB has dedicated white LEDs.
After received the latest reply from Bykski oversea support, i feel like they think i'm an idiot. I'm no expert in fixing stuff or anything technical but i know when thing is wrong. Thanks for the explanation, war4peace. I'm gonna wait for a couple more days see how the support gonna reply.They are wrong.
Here's what happened.
You received the 5V RBW block, plugged it into the 12V RGB pinout on the motherboard, the strip shorted and took the RGB controlling chip with it. Testing it after the fact is useless because if the chips on the strip itself are borked, the strip is now a sleping bomb, going off and taking something with it every time you plug it into something.