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Big Radiators!
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My MiniITX build will be all-Bykski except for the external radiator, tubing and liquid.
 

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Optics Fiend
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Anyone know if the 1080Ti mini block from Bykski will fit the zotac 1080 mini?
 

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Where is the retailer of choice for Bykski products? I'm in the USA and I see as of November of last year, Primochill is an official retailer of the brand and are located in Idaho. Anyone have experience with buying Bykski from PrimoChill?

Seems like most of it comes from AliExpress. Any particular sellers to give preference or avoidance?
 

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Big Radiators!
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seems like most of it comes from AliExpress. Any particular sellers to give preference or avoidance?
I use this store for all Bykski products.
Cool. As luck would have it, I actually bookmarked their posting of all I looked at on AliExpress because it looked the most legit. Good feedback, lots of activity, reasonable prices. I appreciate the comment, thanks.
 

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Hello. See if you can help me. I have this block:

https://www.bykski.us/collections/g...erage-gpu-water-block-clear-n-gv2080tiaorus-x

Very happy, nice, works luxurious, and does suit well. I bought this add-on that advertised it with the block to monitor temperatures:

https://www.bykski.us/products/byks...on-block-w-oled-temp-sensor-black-b-vga-sc-v2

But I didn't dare put it on. It says literally "This component has aluminum that comes in contact with the coolant. You MUST use this in an aluminum compatible loop" which I didn't think when I bought it. The strange thing is that it only serves the Bykski blocks, and these are not aluminum, they are all Electroplated High Purity Copper, don't make sense, I don't understand. They even sell it in batch along with one of their copper blocks, like this:

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/3300...52-41e4-9ab3-87496e3f55e3&transAbTest=ae803_4

Can someone explain to me how it's possible? Can I or can't I put this sensor without fear?

Thanks
 

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Hello. See if you can help me. I have this block:

https://www.bykski.us/collections/g...erage-gpu-water-block-clear-n-gv2080tiaorus-x

Very happy, nice, works luxurious, and does suit well. I bought this add-on that advertised it with the block to monitor temperatures:

https://www.bykski.us/products/byks...on-block-w-oled-temp-sensor-black-b-vga-sc-v2

But I didn't dare put it on. It says literally "This component has aluminum that comes in contact with the coolant. You MUST use this in an aluminum compatible loop" which I didn't think when I bought it. The strange thing is that it only serves the Bykski blocks, and these are not aluminum, they are all Electroplated High Purity Copper, don't make sense, I don't understand. They even sell it in batch along with one of their copper blocks, like this:

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/3300...52-41e4-9ab3-87496e3f55e3&transAbTest=ae803_4

Can someone explain to me how it's possible? Can I or can't I put this sensor without fear?

Thanks
Yeah I discovered the same thing after buying a Bykski temperature display on ebay, they are made of aluminium and should only be used in an aluminium loop or a mixed loop with the right corrosion inhibitors (maybe Mayhems inhibitor+). I have no idea why Bykski do this rather than making them out of POM like Barrow do. POM is compatible with all types of loops.
 

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Thanks for answering. The truth is that it is very strange, the previous model of sensor of temperature was POM, but the V2 they sell now is aluminum. And I can't find the old model, although in Alliexpress it seems because of the photos that some sellers have it, when you contact them they tell you it's the V2. Too bad, I liked this addition.

Does the Mayhems inhibitor+ work well? With it, could you seamlessly mix that piece of aluminum with the rest of copper?
 

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Thanks for answering. The truth is that it is very strange, the previous model of sensor of temperature was POM, but the V2 they sell now is aluminum. And I can't find the old model, although in Alliexpress it seems because of the photos that some sellers have it, when you contact them they tell you it's the V2. Too bad, I liked this addition.

Does the Mayhems inhibitor+ work well? With it, could you seamlessly mix that piece of aluminum with the rest of copper?
I have the previous version of the inline temperature display (not the V2). It's aluminium as well. The description says "aluminium+POM" but the body, including the inner threads is 100% aluminum. That's what tricked me, I expected the body to be POM and just the face plate to be aluminium like the Barrow units, but that's not the case.

As for the Mayhems Inhibitor+, I have some but I've never used it. However it does say it's suitable for mixed metals, and the guys in the Mayhems users thread love it. I would ask there for a definitive answer.
 

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I got the 5700XT block without LEDs and backplate. I'm very impressed. Machinery quality is very good, it also cool very well. You got all the parts to complite installation. You only need cross screw but I recommend to use better thermal pads and paste.

GPU-Z reaqdings:
1.27V
312W peak (avg 293)
GPU 57°C

Delta gaming temperature 33°C. I have in same loop 2700X at stock. CPU was using 84W, tDie 65°C (Delta T 41°C). I know my radiators and fans are not best but I'm gonna upgrade them in near future.

I got it from here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000005786919.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.323e4c4dthVlRM and it was only 70€ plus shipping and VAT. Full cost 106€. Cheapest I can buy from my country is EKWB and it cost 130€.
 

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Hello, I should take a new pump for my loop for Am4 build.
Here the parts:
2x Xspx RX360 V2 radiators
1 Bykski Vega 64 Nitro Waterblock - to be ordered
1 Cpu-Ryzen-X-MC (for ryzen 3700x) - to be ordered

What Bykski (or Barrow) pump you suggest?
A Bykski B-PMS5-X D5 PWM could be a good choice?

Thanks in advace :)

Inviato dal mio LYA-L29 utilizzando Tapatalk
 

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Does anyone have bad experience with the RGB led came with the gpu block? I purchased the N-GV1080G1-X for my gigabyte 1070 g1 gaming, plugged the rbg led in and it started smoking the moment i turned pc on. IDK it's my fault or it's the factory fault, i used the pin for rgb on the gpu board. After that the vga won't boot and it keeps flashing white light near the 8pins. I tested w the other card to and the psu is working just fine, i'm using fsp aurum pro 1200w, didn't have any problem so far. Anyway, since i can't RMA my card anymore so i went to the local and found that the RGB LED caused some shortage on the board n blew up one the chip.

The block itself is pretty cool, a bit dirty inside, i even found a small rat hair/some kinda of feather. But temp is great stable at 37*C max oc under max load.
 

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Big Radiators!
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There are two types of RGB, one is 5V dRGB and the other is 12V RGB. Maybe you got the wrong type of RGB for it?
 

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yeah probably, i thought since they attached the rgb led on the bottom of the block, screwed in and all they must have tested with the card already. Also their screws are really soft. The block is really nice tho.Too bad i couldn't test the block for a long time anymore.

Btw, does anyone use Model:N-GV1080G1-X for gigabyte 1070 g1 gaming rev 2.0?
 

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Does anyone have bad experience with the RGB led came with the gpu block? I purchased the N-GV1080G1-X for my gigabyte 1070 g1 gaming, plugged the rbg led in and it started smoking the moment i turned pc on. IDK it's my fault or it's the factory fault, i used the pin for rgb on the gpu board. After that the vga won't boot and it keeps flashing white light near the 8pins. I tested w the other card to and the psu is working just fine, i'm using fsp aurum pro 1200w, didn't have any problem so far. Anyway, since i can't RMA my card anymore so i went to the local and found that the RGB LED caused some shortage on the board n blew up one the chip.

The block itself is pretty cool, a bit dirty inside, i even found a small rat hair/some kinda of feather. But temp is great stable at 37*C max oc under max load.
Could anyone confirm it's my fault to plug the led in the wrong place or it's the rgb led has problem?

I bought block(model N-GV1080G1-X) for my Gigabyte GTX 1070 G1 Gaming rev 1.0. Card is dead after i plugged the RGB led in, it was working fine before. The photos attached showed where i plugged exactly. I only has photo from benchmark to prove that it works before i plugged the led in.
 

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Big Radiators!
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I looked at some reviews online and can confirm the chip that blew up is the Holtek HT32F52241 32-bit ARM Cortex-M0+ MCU, which Gigabyte uses for controlling the card's RGB effects (sauce).

Could you confirm which version have you bought? The waterblock has two versions, named "RBW and RGB". However the pinout is different: for the regular RGB (which the card supports), you have 12V+R+G+B pins, and for the RBW it depends as a matter of fact. Some have 3 PINs, some have 4 PINs (e.g. Aquacomputer RGBpx). I assume the Bykski RBW has 3-pins because I don' think their dRGB has dedicated white LEDs.
 

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I looked at some reviews online and can confirm the chip that blew up is the Holtek HT32F52241 32-bit ARM Cortex-M0+ MCU, which Gigabyte uses for controlling the card's RGB effects (sauce).

Could you confirm which version have you bought? The waterblock has two versions, named "RBW and RGB". However the pinout is different: for the regular RGB (which the card supports), you have 12V+R+G+B pins, and for the RBW it depends as a matter of fact. Some have 3 PINs, some have 4 PINs (e.g. Aquacomputer RGBpx). I assume the Bykski RBW has 3-pins because I don' think their dRGB has dedicated white LEDs.
Thank you for the sauce, i'm gonna try to get some sample or site that sell this chip. People said it's gonna really hard for me to get one.

About the led, mine is 3 pins RBW but when i asked a guy to test the input voltage it's 12V. However, we tested with 5v and 12v card/hub/mainboard and even with the bykski 5v hub. All the tested product are either getting smoke or didn't boot at all, the bykski hub was brand new and also didn't work after after tested with the led.
 

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So after all the the trouble this is the response i got from bykski oversea support. Their professional technical team took a look at an photo of dissembled card and told me i did not put the thermal pads/ heat conduction sticker. And despite the fact that the rgb led cause the chip that is handle it exploded, all the evidence i provided, tested it and killed many hub/card/mb , they still said the card is fine even if i plugged it in the wrong position.
 

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Big Radiators!
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They are wrong.
Here's what happened.
You received the 5V RBW block, plugged it into the 12V RGB pinout on the motherboard, the strip shorted and took the RGB controlling chip with it. Testing it after the fact is useless because if the chips on the strip itself are borked, the strip is now a sleping bomb, going off and taking something with it every time you plug it into something.
 

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They are wrong.
Here's what happened.
You received the 5V RBW block, plugged it into the 12V RGB pinout on the motherboard, the strip shorted and took the RGB controlling chip with it. Testing it after the fact is useless because if the chips on the strip itself are borked, the strip is now a sleping bomb, going off and taking something with it every time you plug it into something.
After received the latest reply from Bykski oversea support, i feel like they think i'm an idiot. I'm no expert in fixing stuff or anything technical but i know when thing is wrong. Thanks for the explanation, war4peace. I'm gonna wait for a couple more days see how the support gonna reply. :eek:

I do like the block even if it's some sort of a EK copy, the acrylic just have a little bit of cnc work and the way the water flow is kinda strange, the jet plate is 2 or almost 3 times thicker than EK's. Screwed are just bad. The only thing i think they did better than EK is the acrylic, it's tougher...or mine titanx block is kinda fragile after many years of watercooling.
 
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