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After 5 days, Bykski send another email. From what i understand is that even if the LED had a problem nor i connected it in a wrong pin my whole system would be just fine.
I have my card fixing at gigabyte customer service atm. I'll soon have a report from gigabyte.
At this point i only wanna know what the hell is happening?

I don't understand most of what they said so far but i'm sure there is something wrong. I was supposed to be happy since the card was under 35*C under max load. Why did a 5v RBW LED connected to a 5V and blew that one chip that control RGB effect .
They have the card photo im using on their website too
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0069/8102/5892/products/N-GV1080G1-X_21_1024x1024.jpg?v=1567617733
https://www.bykski.us/collections/g...l-coverage-gpu-water-block-clear-n-gv1080g1-x

Did i connected the RBG led in the wrong place?
 

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Big Radiators!
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@snorlaxgangs the waterblock has addressable RGB pinout. Your GPU has non-addressable RGB pinout. The waterblock takes 5V power, your GPU gave it 12V on that wire.
In other words, you have ordered the wrong waterblock RGB type.
 

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@snorlaxgangs the waterblock has addressable RGB pinout. Your GPU has non-addressable RGB pinout. The waterblock takes 5V power, your GPU gave it 12V on that wire.
In other words, you have ordered the wrong waterblock RGB type.
If i understand what they said correctly my card should be ok and the only thing that stop working is the led. Would the B-RBW-C8 controller burn out instead of the Holtek RGB controller on the card since their controller is overload protected like they said.
 

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Big Radiators!
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The document above is talking about the Bykski RBW C8 controller, which you don't have. Different hardware.
The waterblock has a simple RBW strip with no protection as far as I could tell. You plug it to 12V, it shorts out, taking the controlling chip of the board with it.
 

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The document above is talking about the Bykski RBW C8 controller, which you don't have. Different hardware.
The waterblock has a simple RBW strip with no protection as far as I could tell. You plug it to 12V, it shorts out, taking the controlling chip of the board with it.
Well then the document they sent it to me is useless then since in the beginning they claimed that "even if it is connected to the wrong position, it will only cause the LED to burn out, but will not affect the graphics card."
And aren't the pinout of all the Gigabyte cards that have LED and compatible with this block model 12V? Is there any 5v? If not why would they add a 12v on the led and screwed it in bottom of the acrylic. I'm not a power user so i just assumed that i plugged in one the pin one on the card.
 

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I had the same thing happen with my first Bykski GPU block (Vega 64), except I had a 12v RGB LED strip attached to a 5v ARGB header.

I blew two 12v strips with under-volting until I figured out what happened.

You can but replacement strips from Amazon and (I think) Primochill.

Check the Bykski site to verify the model numbers for each voltage and length. Make sure you get the CORRECT VOLTAGE RGB LED STRIP and adapter for it.
 

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Big Radiators!
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Well then the document they sent it to me is useless then
Yes, indeed, the document is for another product.

And aren't the pinout of all the Gigabyte cards that have LED and compatible with this block model 12V? Is there any 5v?
I canțt answer that, however having a 5V Addressable RGB block makes sense because you donțt need to connect it to the GPU only. There are many Digital RGB independent controllers out there which support Digital RGB. For example, my mITX build will have a Digital RGB GPU waterblock, connected to the Aquacomputer Farbwerk 360 controller. This means I will be able to control the RGB effect on the GPU waterblock without using the Gigabyte software (which is horrible by the way), and I will have the possibility to synchronize all the RGB strips in the PC using one single application and one single data source (usually I am going for liquid temperature as a data source).
 

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I canțt answer that, however having a 5V Addressable RGB block makes sense because you donțt need to connect it to the GPU only. There are many Digital RGB independent controllers out there which support Digital RGB. For example, my mITX build will have a Digital RGB GPU waterblock, connected to the Aquacomputer Farbwerk 360 controller. This means I will be able to control the RGB effect on the GPU waterblock without using the Gigabyte software (which is horrible by the way), and I will have the possibility to synchronize all the RGB strips in the PC using one single application and one single data source (usually I am going for liquid temperature as a data source).
My thought was completely different when i saw the block. It has the RGB Led hidden at the bottom, the cable is folded/screwed very tight it only has like ~9" left of the cable length, enough to reach the 4pin connector from the card. Because they make it so clean + there is pinout on the card so thought their intention is to connect to that pinout in middle and hide the cable behind card. It really made sense to me since i have my motherboard placed horizontally.

I didn't use the LED after 2-3 weeks installed the block. Then i saw some YT clips about bykski and some ppl using the same block, plus they use the card pinout for the led.

Anyway, gigabyte technician called and told me that not only the MCU controller is dead, also a bunch of 3V or some protection thing got toasted bad. He is amazed how the heck those protection toasted since they are really tough. IDK much about it so i asked for solution . The guy told me it's best to pull the controller out and see if it boots to window, i agree so they probably will give me the result on Monday.

Well, lesson learned. It's my fault i think, can't blame on the design. The only thing i hate about bykski is they are so sure and told me that plug 12v to 5v/ 5v to 12v are impossible to affect my card.

I posted some photos review the block. They really go for cheap rubber and screws material. One of my rubber ring got half eaten, i'm using distilled water so it shouldn't be the cause. Screws are very tender. Jet plate is thicker than EK. The cover has a bit cnc work and that's it. Kinda strange when i saw the flow went all over the place but it works.

All in all, the block is good, customer service sucks.

https://imgur.com/zqFWlaN
https://imgur.com/9hrSclK
https://imgur.com/ytdOarJ
https://imgur.com/CfMGCiY
https://imgur.com/rPUkj5M
https://imgur.com/p5jIvEf
https://imgur.com/68TWgct
https://imgur.com/7WG7VVN
https://imgur.com/J2HsBT8
https://imgur.com/KGsST79
 

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My thought was completely different when i saw the block. It has the RGB Led hidden at the bottom, the cable is folded/screwed very tight it only has like ~9" left of the cable length, enough to reach the 4pin connector from the card. Because they make it so clean + there is pinout on the card so thought their intention is to connect to that pinout in middle and hide the cable behind card. It really made sense to me since i have my motherboard placed horizontally.

I didn't use the LED after 2-3 weeks installed the block. Then i saw some YT clips about bykski and some ppl using the same block, plus they use the card pinout for the led.

Anyway, gigabyte technician called and told me that not only the MCU controller is dead, also a bunch of 3V or some protection thing got toasted bad. He is amazed how the heck those protection toasted since they are really tough. IDK much about it so i asked for solution . The guy told me it's best to pull the controller out and see if it boots to window, i agree so they probably will give me the result on Monday.

Well, lesson learned. It's my fault i think, can't blame on the design. The only thing i hate about bykski is they are so sure and told me that plug 12v to 5v/ 5v to 12v are impossible to affect my card.

I posted some photos review the block. They really go for cheap rubber and screws material. One of my rubber ring got half eaten, i'm using distilled water so it shouldn't be the cause. Screws are very tender. Jet plate is thicker than EK. The cover has a bit cnc work and that's it. Kinda strange when i saw the flow went all over the place but it works.

All in all, the block is good, customer service sucks.

https://imgur.com/zqFWlaN
https://imgur.com/9hrSclK
https://imgur.com/ytdOarJ
https://imgur.com/CfMGCiY
https://imgur.com/rPUkj5M
https://imgur.com/p5jIvEf
https://imgur.com/68TWgct
https://imgur.com/7WG7VVN
https://imgur.com/J2HsBT8
https://imgur.com/KGsST79
Looks like bad installation to me. I have bykski 2080ti ref block and the difference is 2-3C from watercool. I got is for 50$ and the headkiller was 190$ so win win for me
 

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Do you think the fins on this block gonna cover a 3950x chiplets? The block is massive and is TR4 compatible as well.

The pictures are for reference, the CPU in the motherboard I'm getting and chiplet layout etc.







 

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Do you think the fins on this block gonna cover a 3950x chiplets? The block is massive and is TR4 compatible as well.

The pictures are for reference, the CPU in the motherboard I'm getting and chiplet layout etc.
I've got one for my 3900x - not convinced about the mounting that it came with so added washers. It appears to be better than anything else on the market for the 7nm chiplets (no comparison between it and the optimus block though)
 

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Do you think the fins on this block gonna cover a 3950x chiplets? The block is massive and is TR4 compatible as well.

The pictures are for reference, the CPU in the motherboard I'm getting and chiplet layout etc.







See second spoiler in this post.
 

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Any 5700XT users with a bykski block? How did you install the stock backplate?
 

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Hi, How was the outcome for this card? Managed to do exactly the same thing on a GTX1080ti whilst stumbling through with no instructions.
 

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After 5 days, Bykski send another email. From what i understand is that even if the LED had a problem nor i connected it in a wrong pin my whole system would be just fine.
I have my card fixing at gigabyte customer service atm. I'll soon have a report from gigabyte.
At this point i only wanna know what the hell is happening?

I don't understand most of what they said so far but i'm sure there is something wrong. I was supposed to be happy since the card was under 35*C under max load. Why did a 5v RBW LED connected to a 5V and blew that one chip that control RGB effect .
They have the card photo im using on their website too
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0069/8102/5892/products/N-GV1080G1-X_21_1024x1024.jpg?v=1567617733
Bykski Full Coverage GPU Water Block For Gigabyte GTX 1060/1070/1080 - Clear (N-GV1080G1-X)

Did i connected the RBG led in the wrong place?
Hi, How was the outcome for this card? Managed to do exactly the same thing on a GTX1080ti whilst stumbling through with no instructions. Card now with Gigabyte. Took a little convincing as card out of warranty.
 

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My thought was completely different when i saw the block. It has the RGB Led hidden at the bottom, the cable is folded/screwed very tight it only has like ~9" left of the cable length, enough to reach the 4pin connector from the card. Because they make it so clean + there is pinout on the card so thought their intention is to connect to that pinout in middle and hide the cable behind card. It really made sense to me since i have my motherboard placed horizontally.

I didn't use the LED after 2-3 weeks installed the block. Then i saw some YT clips about bykski and some ppl using the same block, plus they use the card pinout for the led.

Anyway, gigabyte technician called and told me that not only the MCU controller is dead, also a bunch of 3V or some protection thing got toasted bad. He is amazed how the heck those protection toasted since they are really tough. IDK much about it so i asked for solution . The guy told me it's best to pull the controller out and see if it boots to window, i agree so they probably will give me the result on Monday.

Well, lesson learned. It's my fault i think, can't blame on the design. The only thing i hate about bykski is they are so sure and told me that plug 12v to 5v/ 5v to 12v are impossible to affect my card.

I posted some photos review the block. They really go for cheap rubber and screws material. One of my rubber ring got half eaten, i'm using distilled water so it shouldn't be the cause. Screws are very tender. Jet plate is thicker than EK. The cover has a bit cnc work and that's it. Kinda strange when i saw the flow went all over the place but it works.

All in all, the block is good, customer service sucks.

bykski
bykski
bykski
bykski
bykski
how was outcome on this card? did same thing card with gigabyte now
 
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