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I fix Stuff
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all!

I have been using Logitech mice for quite a few years and lately I have been using Logitech G502 Hero mice. I say mice, plural, as I have been through quite a few of them. seems I can't get one to last more than a year and my pile of half working mice is starting to become hilarious. The problem I run into is that after some hours put on the mouse it will start not registering a held click. For example in a first person shooter you usually hold right click to aim down sight and left click to fire. Either the mouse will continuously aim and un-aim or it will fire inconsistently while holding down for full auto fire.

I did some brief research a while ago on this issue as it has happened with over 4 Logitech mice in the last 2.5 years and it seems to be a hardware defect, and not one that seems to have been addressed in the Hero 502 SE that I am running right now. The last mouse that i bought I purchased with an extended warranty as I anticipated this happening and feel like I may need to use it even sooner than expected as the current mouse is also starting to show signs of this failure and it was just purchased on the 27th of March, 2020. Granted I use this mouse literally all day every day for work and gaming so it sees a lot of clicks, but the fact that I can't seem to have a mouse last for even 6 months at this point let alone a year or more is becoming quite frustrating. If I can find another mouse that fits even for double the $45 price tag of the G502 that will last longer I would be willing to try it.

Essentially I am looking for some information such as, what buttons are they using and do they, logitech, make any mice of similar shape with better internals?

The shape of the mouse is important as I have gotten so used to it it will take me a while to conform to a new mouse. Friend of mine shipped me a corsair M65 and the shape is all sorts of off for my hand, too small it seems and the thumb button was in a really awkward place for where I was used to hitting them on the G502.

Any responses appreciated.

Thanks
-Xander
 

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went through 3 G502s too, also have a 4th unopened new in box from a pricing error on Amazon while back on the G502 Hero. I switched to a Model D and I like it. Sort of a 180 in shape and weight though.

disclaimer: not a "mouse expert" whatever that means
 

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I fix Stuff
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Discussion Starter #3
went through 3 G502s too, also have a 4th unopened new in box from a pricing error on Amazon while back on the G502 Hero. I switched to a Model D and I like it. Sort of a 180 in shape and weight though.

disclaimer: not a "mouse expert" whatever that means
Mouse expert in this case I suppose means someone who is nerdy enough to look into the internals of a mouse or reviews them enough to make a decent recommendation :)

I assume this is the model D you're referring to? https://www.pcgamingrace.com/products/glorious-model-d-matte-black
 

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Hello all!

I have been using Logitech mice for quite a few years and lately I have been using Logitech G502 Hero mice. I say mice, plural, as I have been through quite a few of them. seems I can't get one to last more than a year and my pile of half working mice is starting to become hilarious. The problem I run into is that after some hours put on the mouse it will start not registering a held click. For example in a first person shooter you usually hold right click to aim down sight and left click to fire. Either the mouse will continuously aim and un-aim or it will fire inconsistently while holding down for full auto fire.

I did some brief research a while ago on this issue as it has happened with over 4 Logitech mice in the last 2.5 years and it seems to be a hardware defect, and not one that seems to have been addressed in the Hero 502 SE that I am running right now. The last mouse that i bought I purchased with an extended warranty as I anticipated this happening and feel like I may need to use it even sooner than expected as the current mouse is also starting to show signs of this failure and it was just purchased on the 27th of March, 2020. Granted I use this mouse literally all day every day for work and gaming so it sees a lot of clicks, but the fact that I can't seem to have a mouse last for even 6 months at this point let alone a year or more is becoming quite frustrating. If I can find another mouse that fits even for double the $45 price tag of the G502 that will last longer I would be willing to try it.

Essentially I am looking for some information such as, what buttons are they using and do they, logitech, make any mice of similar shape with better internals?

The shape of the mouse is important as I have gotten so used to it it will take me a while to conform to a new mouse. Friend of mine shipped me a corsair M65 and the shape is all sorts of off for my hand, too small it seems and the thumb button was in a really awkward place for where I was used to hitting them on the G502.

Any responses appreciated.

Thanks
-Xander
Sounds like the infamous Logitech "double click issue"... happens because of the switches they are using (Omron 50M if i recall correctly). You could replace them with better ones, if you happen to have the soldering skills...or switch to a brand that uses different switches.

The Mousereview subreddit is full of complains about the issue you are experiencing. Very common sadly. I would suggest to ask there about similar mouse shapes.

Sadly there is no copycat version of the G502 as far as i know, so you gonna have to switch brand. Here is a site that can help you narrow it down shapewise: https://gearsearch.gg/
 

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I fix Stuff
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Discussion Starter #5
Sounds like the infamous Logitech "double click issue"... happens because of the switches they are using (Omron 50M if i recall correctly). You could replace them with better ones, if you happen to have the soldering skills...or switch to a brand that uses different switches.

The Mousereview subreddit is full of complains about the issue you are experiencing. Very common sadly. I would suggest to ask there about similar mouse shapes.

Sadly there is no copycat version of the G502 as far as i know, so you gonna have to switch brand. Here is a site that can help you narrow it down shapewise: https://gearsearch.gg/
That is a good chart!.

According to it though, the model of switches used when comparing the G502 Hero to the Model D, they are very similar. G502 hero has switch model D2FC-F-K when the model D has D2FC-F-7N(OF)
Am I safe in assuming I should avoid all Omron switches on that table or just make sure the model of switches is slightly different than the G502 mice?
 

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my G502s all had scroll wheel issues/deaths, the rest of the mouse was fine.

no idea on how similar the switches are, they just feel like mouse switches to me.
 

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That is a good chart!.

According to it though, the model of switches used when comparing the G502 Hero to the Model D, they are very similar. G502 hero has switch model D2FC-F-K when the model D has D2FC-F-7N(OF)
Am I safe in assuming I should avoid all Omron switches on that table or just make sure the model of switches is slightly different than the G502 mice?
I dont have the insight to know the difference between the switches. I would try asking in the mousereview subreddit. I havent seen many complains about the Model-D switches, tho.

I personally love the Roccat brand. Best clicks, scrollwheel and overall build quality.

:edit:

The Model-D uses the 20M switches and should be fine.
 

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I fix Stuff
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Discussion Starter #8
Tiny bit of a thread revive here. Bought a Razer Deathadder V2 on ebay as it has optical switches instead of omron 50M. when i received it it turns out seller mis listed it and it was an original deathadder elite. didn't think anything of it, was just happy to be rid of my G502 problems for now.
Fast forward almost 2 months, and the razer just started doing thew same ol crap the G502 was. look up on the gearsearch site, CRAP, it is also using the same switches as the G502. so frustrated right now. same switch across several mice and brands is junk. how is this such a wide reported problem and they are still using these switches on new mice?
Just ordered a V2 deathadder on Ebay with different switches to replace my mouse yet again. Funny thing is I found the G502 wireless uses different switches, so I at least have a last resort, albeit an expensive one at $120, if I have to go back to the G502 shape.
Going to be posting online reviews to hopefully help would be buyers from these crap-tastic switches.
 

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"Insert dumb quote here"
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Tiny bit of a thread revive here. Bought a Razer Deathadder V2 on ebay as it has optical switches instead of omron 50M. when i received it it turns out seller mis listed it and it was an original deathadder elite. didn't think anything of it, was just happy to be rid of my G502 problems for now.
Fast forward almost 2 months, and the razer just started doing thew same ol crap the G502 was. look up on the gearsearch site, CRAP, it is also using the same switches as the G502. so frustrated right now. same switch across several mice and brands is junk. how is this such a wide reported problem and they are still using these switches on new mice?
Just ordered a V2 deathadder on Ebay with different switches to replace my mouse yet again. Funny thing is I found the G502 wireless uses different switches, so I at least have a last resort, albeit an expensive one at $120, if I have to go back to the G502 shape.
Going to be posting online reviews to hopefully help would be buyers from these crap-tastic switches.
If you like the shape of the g502 try the Razer Basilisk V2 it is basically a copy of it without the infinite scroll and at around 90g.
 

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Graphics Junkie
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I just got a g305 and I really like it.
 

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¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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That is a good chart!.

According to it though, the model of switches used when comparing the G502 Hero to the Model D, they are very similar. G502 hero has switch model D2FC-F-K when the model D has D2FC-F-7N(OF)
Am I safe in assuming I should avoid all Omron switches on that table or just make sure the model of switches is slightly different than the G502 mice?
The D2FC-F-7N(OF) is arguably the most durable Omron switch. It may be worth switching to a mouse for those switches.

If you want to skip Omron entirely, your next option would be Huano switches. Zowie is the best known brand that uses Huanos, and going from the G502 I would suggest the Zowie EC1. I'd say some adjustment to the shape will be needed but if a Deathadder was alright for you then you'll be fine. You might even like the EC1 shape more than any others. Picking between the matte or glossy coatings is up to you.

I should mention that Huanos can feel a bit stiffer, a bit louder, but then also a bit more defined. And in my experience Zowies are among the more durable mice out there. Be warned about the price though, they can feel overpriced for what they are, especially if you've been using a G502 for $45. Most Zowie users probably see them as a super focused, super functional performance brand, like really well made athletic shoes without the flash.
And I think you're not gonna like the scroll wheel.
 

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OP, considering your pile of broken mice, repairing them might be worth it, because replacing switches is easy. You have to open the mouse for that, but besides it is pretty straightforward.
New, better switches cost next to nothing when bought in bulk of 10 or more.
 

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I fix Stuff
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Discussion Starter #13
OP, considering your pile of broken mice, repairing them might be worth it, because replacing switches is easy. You have to open the mouse for that, but besides it is pretty straightforward.
New, better switches cost next to nothing when bought in bulk of 10 or more.
Yeah, i just cant justify the time it would take me to learn how to do it and get acceptable skill at it.
 

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Yeah, i just cant justify the time it would take me to learn how to do it and get acceptable skill at it.
Solder points don't need to look good, then only need to work, so you can hardly do anything wrong trying it on already broken mice.
The actual work of replacing took me about 10 minutes, that was at first try. Once you get the hang of it mouse number 2, 3 and 4 will most likely be faster.
I think it also shows appreciation for devices to repair them, instead of throwing them away. Some parts like switches, capacitors cost next to nothing but will always break early. Companies count on them breaking (planned obsolescence) and people throwing them away and paying 60$ for a new one when the replacement part is 0,30$. I like it to counter that by at least trying to repair my stuff. You would not believe how common it is for electronics to always break the same way after the same amount of time when there is no actual reason for it.
 
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