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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi, i have a 1156 socket and it's a i7 860 processor. i'm having the same temperature problems that people are having with the Ivy Bridge CPU's, i want to know if i can remove my i7 860 IHS and reaply the tim the same way as Ivy Bridge IHS.
 

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No. Intel started using solid metal TIM solder on LGA775 processors and has only now stopped using it on IB chips. your chip has solder on it.

edit: if you are having heat issues, it is most likely something to do with your heatsink.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemesis158 View Post

No. Intel started using solid metal TIM solder on LGA775 processors and has only now stopped using it on IB chips. your chip has solder on it.
edit: if you are having heat issues, it is most likely something to do with your heatsink.
no it's not the cooler, i'm on water it's the cpu. i wanted to lower my temps a bit
redface.gif
 

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Are you sure that you got good flow and all that?

my i7 860 here is topping out at around 55° on a full load...if only one core is maxed out that one core will hit mid 60's though. I am not really sure why it does that. These are core temps I am talking here too...I never even look at any other temp.

I have it in a loop with my 580 and just a single 360mm Radiator. Though I do have a D5 pump running at the highest speed. The hottest the 580 has gotten has been 43° and that was under a Furmark test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vagrant Storm View Post

Are you sure that you got good flow and all that?
my i7 860 here is topping out at around 55° on a full load...if only one core is maxed out that one core will hit mid 60's though. I am not really sure why it does that. These are core temps I am talking here too...I never even look at any other temp.
I have it in a loop with my 580 and just a single 360mm Radiator. Though I do have a D5 pump running at the highest speed. The hottest the 580 has gotten has been 43° and that was under a Furmark test.
i have the regular XSPC RX240 kit with the stock pump, my i7 [email protected] with HT on at 1.38v with hitting 80c after a 12 hour of prime95. so my chip was hot
redface.gif
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWESOME_3_SOME View Post

i have the regular XSPC RX240 kit with the stock pump, my i7 [email protected] with HT on at 1.38v with hitting 80c after a 12 hour of prime95. so my chip was hot
redface.gif
That is a nice OC though...heh, I'd do whatever it took to keep it cool at that OC. Mine will top out at little over 4GHz and only 3.6GHz if I have HT on. I typically run it at 4.0 even so my numbers are prettier (1600MHz on the memory and what not) and of course with HT off. I just have a BIOS profile set that I use if I want the HT.

From what I've read, that kit should be cooling a lot better than that. I'd measure out a gallon of water and have it pump it from one container to another and time how long it takes...and then look at how fast it should go. LOL...kind of a ghetto flow meter I know, but it gets a general idea of the loop's flow performance. (try to start and stop with the reservoir full so it isn't factored in)
 

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Yes, you can remove soldered IHS. Just follow the procedure and be very careful.

Materials you need:

Some very thin blades (as shown in the pictures), a torch/lighter, cardboard.

1. use blades to cut into the rubber seal between the IHS and PCB, starts from corners and slowly work around the chip until everywhere is cut through. Be careful don't force it as there are surface-mount component on the PCB under IHS.

2. Insert four blades into the four sides between IHS and PCB, they will exert force to crack open the IHS in the 4th step.

3. Use a thick plastic/card board and cut open an area about the same size of the CPU and place the CPU at the opening, IHS facing down. Use tape to secure the CPU on the card board. If possible, place something (as heatsink) on the pin side of CPU to help dissipate extra heat. That help to prevent melting the solder on the pin side. Don't light up the cardboard.

4. Use a torch/light to heat the IHS from bottom. For about 45-60 seconds the solder melts and the blades will pop the IHS off.

5. Use blade carefully scratch off the soft solder on the die and clean the PCB. Don't polish die with sand paper (although I did).

Now you have a naked die for some fun. Core temp should be lowered by 5-10C. Be sure to test the temp before removing IHS for comparison. For the IHS you can drill a hole and make it a nice geek key chain gadget.








 

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oh yeah...heh, you can remove any IHS. I've actually been doing it on a lot of older LGA 775 CPUs recently since I am considering getting a 3770K and there seems to be at least some truth to this IHS scandal that Intel has going on. So I thought I would practice a bit on CPUs that have IHS's that are actually hard to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_chemist21 View Post

if that is compatible with 1156 socket why not try that and see what happen, btw how are the temps on your 2700k vs your overclock / voltage ?
when it's warm outside, my max temps on my i7 2700k is 60c after 12 hour of prime95.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxrena View Post

Yes, you can remove soldered IHS. Just follow the procedure and be very careful.

Materials you need:

Some very thin blades (as shown in the pictures), a torch/lighter, cardboard.

1. use blades to cut into the rubber seal between the IHS and PCB, starts from corners and slowly work around the chip until everywhere is cut through. Be careful don't force it as there are surface-mount component on the PCB under IHS.

2. Insert four blades into the four sides between IHS and PCB, they will exert force to crack open the IHS in the 4th step.

3. Use a thick plastic/card board and cut open an area about the same size of the CPU and place the CPU at the opening, IHS facing down. Use tape to secure the CPU on the card board. If possible, place something (as heatsink) on the pin side of CPU to help dissipate extra heat. That help to prevent melting the solder on the pin side. Don't light up the cardboard.

4. Use a torch/light to heat the IHS from bottom. For about 45-60 seconds the solder melts and the blades will pop the IHS off.

5. Use blade carefully scratch off the soft solder on the die and clean the PCB. Don't polish die with sand paper (although I did).

Now you have a naked die for some fun. Core temp should be lowered by 5-10C. Be sure to test the temp before removing IHS for comparison. For the IHS you can drill a hole and make it a nice geek key chain gadget.








wooow!! veery nice!!

I'll do that with my 3970x, I think I'll use a lighter.
But a question even if the IHS is soldered do you still have a temp gain of 5-10 degree using liquid metal paste?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by qiplayer View Post

wooow!! veery nice!!

I'll do that with my 3970x, I think I'll use a lighter.
But a question even if the IHS is soldered do you still have a temp gain of 5-10 degree using liquid metal paste?
Be sure to use a good lighter. Quicker you can remove the IHS, less risk to damage the chip.
In my case core temp did drop noticeably on i7-960. I was using MX-4 or Gelid Extreme I cannot remember. I think you will need to try and find out.
smile.gif
Liquid metal is proven to be the best TIM on bare die.
 

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Well I did it with a small candle it worked perfectly and beautifully. But now... I need a spacer because without ihs the waterblock doesn't reach the cpu!!!!
I didn't thought of this, and also without the metal that made contact between ihs and cpu there is no contact unless I put alot of liquid metal thermal paste!!

What to do?

By the way a few pics








And by the last one I'm lost rhe waterblock doesn't touch the cpu
 
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