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What's the MSRP?
140mmL x 121mmW x 158mmH
58pcs fins (very dense)
1500rpm 120mm & 140mm fans with FDB bearings
this cant be true, it is too good, but if it's then it is the best thing since the Fanless Raijintek TISIS and the Scythe FumaRumored to be $37ish usd
59Has to be(If true), no way a dual tower cooler with 1x 140mm & 1x 120mm aRGB fans would be priced under $50.
It seems it is out of stock , how much was it? assuming you bought off the amazon link?Did I buy. I have not bought a cooler in years. It is the IVB-E. They sent me the AM4 mount. Cost $5-6 bucks shipped from Germany.
The Macho has lots of fin surface to pull heat out of the pipes but no way to get rid of said heat. I'm a big fan of wind chill and if my puter was set up on wheels it would roll around. The fans are more important than the cooler itself. My proof? I have the only air cooled FX in the 5ghz 24/7 club.
The 8mm pipes on the 140P are interesting in that they have more flow and can react more quickly to sudden temperature changes, but the future is with vapor chambers. Unfortunately the only outfit making those is Coolermaster.
not all of them cost the sameI was going to post the same. Why do people even bother having a whole discussion and interest in a new heatsink, when it's just a rehash or what has already existed for more than a decade and any possible gains in efficiency are overwhelmingly likely to be within the 5% margin at most?
Well if you dont fear modding, lapping your IHS (Assuming a perfect-flat lapping) and using CLU/LM should make it better than anything in the market, even a mid range gpu with LM can match a high end CPU cooler (edit. I think the review compared with a TRUE copper)I'm a bit hyped for this cooler here because Thermalright chose to use their very old mounting system where you can customize the mounting pressure (it's that large knob you can see in the middle). That might help this cooler here beat the competition, like perhaps for people that got a bit unlucky with IHS shape of their CPU.
I'm currently battling a bit with an NH-D14 and a 2700X and I suspect more mounting pressure could change my results. The "thin layer" paste method produces much better temperatures on this 2700X here than the dot-method, which shouldn't be the case. That's why I got thinking about mounting pressure.