Overclock.net banner
1 - 20 of 13320 Posts

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kayan View Post

I used to have an Air 540, but it's too big. I like the 240, which my wife has, but I couldn't fit a thicker rad in. I took a look at the cases some of you mentioned above. The KI Cerberus is quite sexy, but unavailable now and I am not sure if I'd want it anyway. I like the Node 804, and the V21 is ok too. I really like Caselabs new Bullet series, but for a mATX case I'd need a SFX PSU, bleh. Maybe I'll order a BH7 (bigger I know) and put a mATX board in it....meh, but it can't take a 280rad either.
Whats so bleh about SFX PSU's?

Have you taken a look at Project mATX?
 

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kayan View Post

Nothing specific, I'd just need a new PSU too.

Yes, I've seen the mATX project, it looks nice too. I had ruled it out for the same reason as stated above though.

Does anybody know of any mATX cases with a horizontal mounted MOBO (besides the v21 and BH2/4)?
Project mATX can fit ATX PSU's too, just FYI.

As for horizontal mATX cases, there are a bunch, but I assume you're looking for ones with some decent watercooling support?
 

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kayan View Post

I'd like some water support, but after scouring Newegg for horizontal mATX cases, I didn't find many, it's been a few months since I've looked, and it's possible I may have missed some. Please enlighten me
smile.gif
Lian Li PC-V359 can fit a 240 and 120mm rad.
Lian Li PC-V358 only a 240mm rad.

Then there's the Thermaltake X2, but that thing is basically the the size of a large full tower. And its Thermaltake, which is enough reason not to buy it.

Edit: PC-V359 might be able to fit 2 240mm radiators and probably can't fit a 120mm rad and the 240mm rad at the same time.
 

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetfeather View Post

Noise is what's bleh about SFX.

Maybe we'll see a change with the 700w SFX-L (at the cost of ripple suppression thanks to Platnium efficiency)
Silverstone's SX500-LG is by no means a noisy PSU, and fanless at idle.
And there's also the SF600 like previously mentioned.

Personally I'm all for SFX(-L), ATX PSU's really don't belong in smaller formfactor cases anymore.
 

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gree View Post

What's the next best thing to a reference card for a case where gpu complement doesn't have much air flow?

My 980ti has three fans, would moving to a card would only two fans help?

It hits 84C, and lowering settings doesn't do much because it's recycling the hot air it dumps
Water cooling it.

No, might be slightly quiter though.

84°C is fine, as long as it isn't too loud and/or throttles, I wouldn't worry about it.

What case do you have btw?
 

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gree View Post

I just don't want to mess with it.
putting my loop together was a Pain and it looked ****ty.
Probably would of leaked. Already sold my pump/res.

Going to sell my cpu/gpu blocks and radiator next.

If my case supported AIOs I'd just do that lol
Oh lol, seems like you answered the question just before i posted.

Not sure how you managed to make such a mess out of a relatively simple loop. Custom loops take some effort and work, but its not that hard. Did you try to use ridged(acrylic/petg) tubing or something?

The only AIO where you can add a GPU block without messing with the actual water part is the EKWB Predator 360 QDC, But I don't think EK has a block for your particular GPU.
 

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gree View Post

Yes haha I tried acrylic and it took me awhile to buy all the parts.
Then since I'm not very good with my hands cutting and chamfering was difficult
Once I finished the loop I saw that my runs were wonky and when I tried adding the water I couldn't get the pump to turn on. Being dump I tried to drain the loop thinking the water hadn't left the reservoir by pulling a tube out of a fitting and proceed to get water everywhere xD

That's a time spand of four months without a computer while I was trying to watercool
And I really don't wanna bother with all the maintenance.

This case only has space for a slim 360 rad, so I can't use any AIO for cpu and something like a hybrid 980ti wouldn't fit too well. I'm thinking if I had gone with soft tubing I would of been done a long time ago.
Not sure why you went with ridged tubing, I don't think I or most knowledgeable people on this forum would recommend that anyone new to watercooling and with no previous similar experience(plumbing,oil lines, copper tubing, etc). Especially if you don't consider yourself a handy person.

Sorry if I'm being a bit harsh here, but it sounds to me your biggest mistake was that you didn't do the proper research and planning before building your loop, you only got yourself to blame.

I build my first loop in a day, a fairly similar one to what you would've needed. And its been running for 2 years, so maintenance is hardly an issue. (if you use plain distilled/de-ionized water with the proper additives.)

Here are some pics, I think it looks pretty decent, considering the budget and time spend. But I'll leave that up for you to decide.
wink.gif


So, watercooling doesn't have to be a pain, nor take a really long time. You just have to do the planning and research so you know what you're getting yourself into. It can be quite a fun experience that way.
thumb.gif
 

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42 degree angle View Post

This is a bit of a long shot but since you here are familiar with small form factor builds and I'm new to the forums, and frankly haven't found anything that useful from my searches while lurking, I'll post my questions here;

I'm looking to build my first ever PC. A gaming PC capable of running 1080p 60fps easily, more towards to the +100hz mark, and 1440p 60fps when I have the funds for a monitor. The thing is, I've always had a crush on ITX builds and I really want to do one just for the sake of it. My question lies here:

Would a Define Nano S be sufficient for my build when using an aftermarket GTX 1070 and air cooling for the whole package? I'm worried about thermal throttling for the GPU, and thermals over all, just because I come from a laptop which could literally boil water with its components. As much as I'd over a ITX build, I won't do it if the thermals would be anything more than tolerable.

My second question is: Is it a wise choice to go for a SFX PSU to give the GPU more breathing room? Is there any downsides on SFX compared to a normal ATX PSU?

And third and the last question for now: What kind of fan setup is advised to have on the Define Nano S? I reckon that one exhaust, two intakes and the CPU cooler fans would suffice, but is that so? Also what kind of fans are advised to be used and should the usage as an intake or as an exhaust matter when choosing fans?

http://de.pcpartpicker.com/user/dAEN/saved/b4bFf7 Here is a PCPP build draft I've made, please do take a look at it and point out anything that would seem like a bad bet. Also be sure to guide me to a thread more suitable for my concerns, if you happen to know one. Thanks beforehand!
The thermals should be plenty acceptable, and the SFX PSU is definitely a good choice to improve your GPU temps. And the SFX-L PSU you've chosen pretty much has no downsides compared to a regular ATX PSU.

I find it odd that you chose a lot of Noctua products for a Windowed ITX case, as I assume it'll be in sight on your desk? Why not go for some a little more visually appealing fans/cooler?
 

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42 degree angle View Post

Thanks for the input!

As I asked on the quoted message, I really don't know what fans to use and what should I look for in a fan yet. I threw in the Noctua fans as they've got that 'legendary status'. I'm really keen on to switching the case fans for Thermalrights TY-147A's tho.

As for the CPU cooler, I've always had a thing for gigantic air coolers on ITX cases + yet again Noctua's reputation. Be sure to suggest me something better price/performance wise if there's any cooler I'm missing! I'm looking for a great performer.
Noctua makes some great stuff, but there are quite a few others that make equally good stuff usually at similar or more reasonable prices. Noctua's "legandary" status is imo, a bit overhyped.

Thermalrights TY-147A's wouldn't work because of how the front fans are offset on the S Nano. Nor would one fit in the back. I wish Thermalright would just give us a square frame version already...

Maybe some EK Vardars or Phanteks MP's? Phanteks MP's would look pretty good in combination with The Thermalright heat sink I'll mention later, as they too have white blades with a black frame.

As far as coolers go, I think the Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT would be a good option, its massive, fits in the nano and is quieter and performs as well as an NH-D15S(Which performs similar to the NH-D14) and looks way better imo. Its a little cheaper too which is always nice.

Here's the updated list: http://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/qMfLkT

Btw, pcpartpicker is absolutely horrible at finding prices in germany, just for example mindfactory has the 120MP and 140MP for €14 and €16 respectively. I'd recommend using geizhals.de
 

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gree View Post

It's a store copy, idk if I can rip it to a sub
External drive is the easiest for me. Thx
You don't have to rip anything you just select the version of windows you require, and let the tool create the bootable USB drive. Any 8GB or more USB flash drive will work just fine.

Its easy as pie and a lot more convinient than having to mess with optical drives/disks.
 

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dortheleus View Post

Hey gang,

Does anyone know where I could find an "Internal" power cord to install a power supply in a case?

Cheers,
Just get a chassis mount IEC power socket, your cable of choice, cut the cable to length and solder it to the socket(don't forget the heat shrink).

You could probably find a pre-made one, but the chance it'll be the right length is slim.
 

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by willieboy90 View Post

Sorry, completely forgot, you're right its about the Asus Z170i Pro Gaming! I've edited the post
smile.gif


The best, biggest and baddest coolers I can't use, because I need the space on the side panel to fit a radiator of the EVGA hybrid GPU. Also completely forgot to add that to my post....

Thanks for your reply! I'm trying really hard to find out if the NH-L12 will fit, because I've read some reviews and that cooler performed better than the smaller U9 variants. However, I'm unsure if the performance of the NH-L12 will decrease a lot with the mounting that I have to do (vertically with top to bottom, Heat pipes curves facing upwards). If I'd find out that the NH-L12 won't work, I guess I'll have to settle with 'just' one of the U9's.

The reason I'm really want to know if the NH-L12 will work is because I'd like my build to run as silently (and cool) as possible.
Plenty of Ncases with NH-L12's, so I doubt there'll be an issue. And heat pipe orientation doesn't really matter as much with modern heat pipes as they're sinterend.

I would get a Cryorig C1 instead though, its lower(even when fitted with a 25mm fan) and performs slightly better. And quieter when fitted with a fan like the Thermalright TY-147.
 

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by willieboy90 View Post

Thing Is I can't find any Ncases with this CPU cooler and motherboard... Some motherboards have a slightly different positioned CPU mount on the motherboard and in the Ncase just a few mm can mean you can install something or not
biggrin.gif


Cryorig C1 performing better than a NH-L12 is new to me, gonna check some reviews right away!

Edit: just looking at the C1, you think there is still room to fit the radiator on the side panel?
According to the M1 cooler spreadsheet, the C1 works with your motherboard, but only without the rear panel case fan, not sure if you were panning to use one?

Edit: The C1 is about as shallow as they come, but I'm not sure if the width is an issue. Can't say for certain if it'll interfere with your rad.

Edit2:

The cooler will mount like this:


Seeing how its way off to the left, I don't think it'll interfere with the radiator.
 

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by willieboy90 View Post

YES!
biggrin.gif
repped
wink.gif


All I need now is to verify my motherboard has the same CPU placement as that ASROCK Z170 one. Are you also that awesome to know if that is the case?? If this cooler will fit I'm so thankful that you told me about this one, have spend so much time only looking at be quiet and noctua...
The cpu placement looks quite similar, but it was already mentioned in the spreadsheet that it fits that way on your ASUS Z170I Pro gaming ITX board.
Quote:
If heatpipes face toward case front, heatsink touches the rear panel and fan cannot be mounted.
Although I'm not entirely certain if they're talking about the case fan or the heatsink's fan in this instance... If no one can clarify this, and you still want to try it. I'd get it from a place with a good quick return policy(like amazon).
 

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by willieboy90 View Post

Instead of directly mounting the fan on the CPU cooler,

Use the side panel of the Ncase M1 to fit a 140mm fan (cool the CPU heatsink) and a 120mm fan (behind this fan I'll mount the radiator for the hybrid GPU) like:
That would leave too much of a gap, the C1 without a fan is only 61mm high, and the Ncase has 130mm of clearance. so that leaves a massive 44mm gap. with a 25mm fan on the side panel. Almost none of the air that fan will be pushing will go trough the cooler.

Why not just mount a 120mm fan on the cooler and a 120/140mm fan on the side panel? There's plenty of space for that.

Edit: Also, why not just get a 120mm CLC, you already have a CLC on your GPU so you'll have to deal with the noise anyway.
 

· Meep
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by willieboy90 View Post

EDIT: TLDR, noctua NH-C14s is to tall to fit with with the top fan (only slim fans will fit). Because of this, I can't use this cooler no matter if it would fit without the fan.

I'm thinking about choosing a GTX 1080 instead of a 1070 hybrid, because of dat 4k gaming. However, this means that I don't need the room on the side panel of the Ncase M1 to fit the radiator of the GPU.

I'm now looking into the Noctua NH-C14s and in combination with an after market open air cooler GPU, let's say a Gigabyte 1080 Gaming G1 (will add two fans at the bottom of the case for extra air flow). I'm aware that I'll get worse temps than If I'd choose a hybrid, but I just simply can't afford a 1080 hybrid card
redface.gif


According to the Spreadsheet from hardforum the NH-C14s doesn't fit in the case with an Asus H97I-PLUS motherboard, which gives me some concerns. I've got an Asus Z170i Pro Gaming that looks quite similar to the H97I-PLUS.

I've done some awesome work in pages on my mac and with the dimensions from the NH-C14s and the Asus Z170i Pro Gaming, it should fit with the heatpipes (where the bends go into the heatsink) towards the back of the case. See my awesome pages skills.

Because of that comment in the spreadsheet I'm worried the heatsink wont fit, but the image (see below) looks like it should fit easily. If there is anyone that knows more if the NH-C14s is the same as the NH-C14 dimensions wise, or if the NH-C14s should just fit on my motherboard. Let me know!

The dimensions of the motherboard is 170x170mm and the CPU cooler is 163x140mm.
The spreadsheet that was linked earlier is a handy thing, you should use it, could've saved you some time.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Xhd3QG2uIVBgQ7vHgpP_Bd_MNcrfxr8KJW2sY6g33so/edit#gid=10

So no the C14S doesn not fit at all, but the C14 does.
 
1 - 20 of 13320 Posts
Top