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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive posted some pics of this mod around but this will be the only build log i post all pics and reply to.

I will start by saying that the use of Zip Straps is not my idea, another person somewhere posted their log using a H70 and a Nvidia card, ive yet to find that thread again or i would have linked it here:

The only things i need to complete this mod was zipstraps and TIM. From start to finnish it took about 15min. If you unfamilar with the proccess of taking apart the card you could be looking at a longer time to complete. There are many other places to find how to take your card apart but because of the many different models ill not list any links, im sure you can find what you need with a quick search of OCN or other sites.

I held off posting this untill i had some time to work with the card. I wanted to make sure that card was stable........and that it didnt blowup. I have benchmarked the card many times now, forcing it to heatup and tried crazy overclocks. The card has stayed cool and for the most part can oc better than before.

As always "at your own risk"

Here is my vanilla Zotac 560 ti
5766387389_5166196782_b.jpg
_IGP8909 by cravinmild, on Flickr

Not much of a overclocker...pretty rotten honestly. This card never competed with other 560tis', it always posted lesser scores and never took well to a high overclock. Temps were always high even with great airflow. Average temps were 45c idle and 89c under full load.

6017935005_b42b8d8cfa_b.jpg
_IGP9519 by cravinmild, on Flickr

Taking the top off the card showed the zotac fan and the heatsink it cooled below it. four screws held the fan to the heatsink.
6017937399_60ce7895a6_b.jpg
_IGP9520 by cravinmild, on Flickr

There are more or less three parts to the card......show here. Heatsink/fan, heatplate the heatsink it attaches to, the last is the pcb holding the vram,gpu and other circuitry.

5994705933_8ac00b8f6d_b.jpg
_IGP9521 by cravinmild, on Flickr

The TIM need to be replaced imo, it was "chalky" and felt dry. I used whatever came boxed with my 1055t. I did have some other silver stuff but at 2am i was not into hunting it down in the shed.

I started by wrapping two fairly sturdy zipstraps around the pump housing but NOT tightening them completely. You need to have them lose as you need to be able to slide the other zipstraps around the housing inorder to line them up with the mounting screw holes.
**NOTE**
I put the black zipstraps upside down in this shot, i figured it out quickly as will you when you do this part lol

6017939283_6a8647f34f_b.jpg
_IGP9522 by cravinmild, on Flickr
6018496672_e585cf9fce_b.jpg
Untitled by cravinmild, on Flickr

If you look you will notice that the heatplate has indented mounting holes for the heatsink mounting screws. Feed the black zipstraps through the mounting holes and at the same time lining up the pump for good contact with the gpu.
**this is where you want to take note of the orentation of the pump so the tubing is not coming off the card in the wrong direction, making rad mounting difficult later.**
6017941961_27db7d9801_b.jpg
_IGP9524 by cravinmild, on Flickr

Now tighten up all the zipstraps starting with the two used around the pump housing and then the black zipstraps used to fasten the pump to the heatplate. You can go ahead and clip the extra lenght from the zipstraps to give it a cleaner look. If done correctly the pump will be as tight as if it had been screwed down. The indented screw holes used for the original heatsink should be enough to hide the nub of the "locker" zipstrap once the extra is cut. You should not have any pressure on the pcb because of excess zipstrap.

6017944415_968ac141c7_b.jpg
_IGP9525 by cravinmild, on Flickr

Notice how the pump also overhangs the heatplate on all sides. IDK if it helps with the cooling of the vram. One day when i rip it down ill lay several temp probes one vram/stuff and monitor the temps, never thought of it at the time or i would have done it the first time. Now it is time to mount the heatplate/pump to the pcb. I started with the screws closest to the gpu. Remember this is when the pump and gpu are pressed together......take your time on this. I had no real order to tightening down the 12 screws, just went at it and kept doing each screw alittle till they were all tight.

I was lucky and my original cover fit back on the card WOOT! This may not be the case for all models. I was also thinking that it maybe a good thing as your card will recive extra airmovement without the cover. I like the look better my way and overheating does not seem to be an issue.
6017946711_b12bd51320_b.jpg
_IGP9527 by cravinmild, on Flickr

So there you have it. Works well so far. Ive ran Heaven DX11 V2.5 and recived a score of 1300 at 1275/2550/2000. Not super great but the card did not downclock on me once as was the norm befor. Befor the mod 1050core was max and lucky to finnish the same benchmark. Stock my score was 800 (before the mod) and every oc showed improvement.
Temps are way lower. Idle the card can drop to 24c (stock 43c+) and i have never seen it go above 50c on any game or benchmark if used. Before i could see temps above 90c. Most times it will benchmark 46c max temp. Temps drop to 32 a few seconds after the benchmark ends. I used the stock H100 fans in a push/pull drawing up air from the bottom intake of my HAF 932 @ 1500rpm on a Scythe Master Pro 6 fan/temp controller.
6015475283_152711c2ce_b.jpg
H70 by cravinmild, on Flickr

6016029260_0c4fb8a221_b.jpg
560ti by cravinmild, on Flickr

Hope this will be of some use/entertainment for someone. Let me know what you think.
 

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Awesome, thanks for this and the other pics you sent me before. How sturdy and flexible are the hoses on the H70? Because i dont have any room on the bottom of my case to mount the rad but i do have a read 120mm spot to fit the rad if the cables are long/flexible enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
After the success of my 560ti/H70 mod i have decided to do the same with my new Asus Matrix ROG GTX 580. I used the same H70 cooler that was on my 560ti and put the 560ti back to stock.

This is a build log for my Asus Matrix. I was more apprehensive as the Matrix cost me $567 and would much harder to replace if i was to blow it up. As with the first mod i wanted to retain the original look (beautiful card btw) plus i thought that the two 90mm fans would aid in cooling the pcb vs just the H70 alone. I used the same zipstrap method but i needed to tighten right to the pcb and not a heatplate as the 560ti had. Lucky for me Asus has added a full metal cover which helped to keep the pcb stiff and not crack or break.
The H70 was very easy to instal but keeping the shroud was most difficult.
So here goes, ill explain as i go:

This is a shot of the massive heatsink, the red circles are where the shroud attaches, the shroud also holds the two 90mm fans. The second shot is of the shroud and the two red circles are where the screws go to hold it to the heatsink
6133941343_12dc47e132_b.jpg

IMGP9963 by cravinmild, on Flickr
6134490022_56ffc975ce_b.jpg
IMGP9969 by cravinmild, on Flickr

This is a shot of my Zotac 560ti heatsink placed on the Asus Matrix heatsink, very big difference in size.
6134487482_9055caafee_b.jpg
zotacheatsinkon580 by cravinmild, on Flickr

A shot of the Asus heatsink by its self. Much larger chip than the 560ti. The H70 did not completely cover the GTX 580 chip and left the four corners exposed. I did not think it would be an issue as the main parts to be cooled would be central in the chip.
6138511454_af56efa4f9_b.jpg
IMGP9977 by cravinmild, on Flickr

The Matrix has done a great job with its heatsink over the back of the card.
6138510356_e8d4c0ef9a_b.jpg
IMGP9976 by cravinmild, on Flickr

After a dry run with the shroud in place but the guts of the card removed. I wanted to make sure i had the clearance to have the waterlines to come out the side. i still messed up here, i need to raise the shroud higher than stock as the water lines were to thick. I ended up running one line against the mobo and the other out the side you see here. First two attempts to snap the card to the mobo failed to post the card at startup. Just too much tubing between the back of the card and the mobo...just kept pushing till it clicked into place.
6137973079_dbddc6b7e9_b.jpg
IMGP9986 by cravinmild, on Flickr

pretty basic stuff here, collar the pump with two large zipstraps and another four zipstraps ruffly where they should be, i kept them all loose untill i was sure they were placed exactly as they needed to be.
6137976053_1c6bee339b_b.jpg
IMGP9989 by cravinmild, on Flickr

Now what to do about making a bracket to hold the shroud in place. With no heatsink to attach it to i was stumped for a few days as i went over ideas in my head...... It came to me while the wife was talking about something important, i noticed in the closet behind her some clothing hanging on a coathanger..a black plastic coathanger...not a metal one which could short my pcb out if it touched the wrong spot. Needless to say the wife has a few dresses which need to be folded and placed in a drawer now. The plastic coathangers i cut with a haxsaw blade. It was perfect, i only need to distroy two before coming up with the perfect fit..mostly perfect fit.
6138512424_157d3c2c74_b.jpg
IMGP9978 by cravinmild, on Flickr
6138516166_7fde497d6c_b.jpg
IMGP9982 by cravinmild, on Flickr

I just notched the ends to tightly clip to the side of the pcb. Because the shroud hangs and does not have to take the weight of anything it worked well for this
6137968521_4d8ac1ce1e_b.jpg
IMGP9981 by cravinmild, on Flickr

6137982953_f944dc6efe_b.jpg
IMGP9996 by cravinmild, on Flickr
6137980049_c9521ea777_b.jpg
IMGP9993 by cravinmild, on Flickr
6138523438_29f4f4e837_b.jpg
IMGP9990 by cravinmild, on Flickr

Here youll notice that the shroud hangs abit where the h70 pump now sits. This is where my mistake shows itself. i need to make the brakets longer to hang the shroud lower. The reason is the pump presses against the bottom of the 90mm fan. It caused one clip to break loose because of the pressure and the other water line pressed up against the motherboard. At this point is was like F-it, its working and unless i point it out it mostly would go unnoticed by others.
6137985817_87e6147002_b.jpg
IMGP9999 by cravinmild, on Flickr
6137984881_06f5523dcd_b.jpg
IMGP9998 by cravinmild, on Flickr

So that is it, that is my mod. I was scared to turn it on at first as i was sure i ruptured the waterline against the mobo but it all worked out well. My lows are 24c from 34-37c and my load temps are crazy at max 53c with a crazy oc of 1001mhz core and benchmarking Unigine. Here is my benchmark score
6138582603_999a36101f_b.jpg
oc5801ghz by cravinmild, on Flickr

4x aa/ 4xaf/tes. extreme and default for the rest (1280x1024). I need to run minimized screen to keep an eye on temps, but still i didnt crash. I used the max fan speed button to stay stable, 2000rpm for the rad fans from my scythe fan controller and maxed the volts at 1.5 PLUS i needed to click the overvoltage buttons 3x but still in the green. Ive still got 4 or 5 overvolt presses to go plus tweek the mem and timmings yet. If i had to guess i was 1.58v. Once i max the card out this way i will solder off the voltage protection and other protective methods nivida has imposed and Asus has allowed for...at my own risk lol.

So there it is, my latest gpu mod. Let me know what you think as i crave attention...need it constantly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Adridu59, glad you like it, it is pretty nice looking with the fat waterlines coming out. Ive no glamor shots of my Matrix yet, cant seem to find that nice angle for shooting. Perhaps some low light shots to show off the little leds Asus put all over the pcb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok,

I just woke up, so the pc is cool. Ill run some BF3 and ill then post my load temps.

Room temp 73f
idle temps

gpu 26c
memory temp 35c
power temp 28c
board temp 16c

Both fans on the shroud at 20%
H70 rad fans 1100 rpm (im using both fans from the H100). These rpms are locked at this rpm with a fan controller.

These are load temps
20min play time and card factory stock

gpu 50c
memory temp 63c
power temp 56c
board temp 27c

BF3 Ultra settings, 1920x1080 asus 23" screen
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cravinmild;15459244
ok,

I just woke up, so the pc is cool. Ill run some BF3 and ill then post my load temps.

Room temp 73f
idle temps

gpu 26c
memory temp 35c
power temp 28c
board temp 16c

Both fans on the shroud at 20%
H70 rad fans 1100 rpm (im using both fans from the H100). These rpms are locked at this rpm with a fan controller.

These are load temps
20min play time and card factory stock

gpu 50c
memory temp 63c
power temp 56c
board temp 27c

BF3 Ultra settings, 1920x1080 asus 23" screen
Those temps are incredible.

Many thanks mate!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Three straight hours of bf3 and my max video ram temps were 68c average 63c, card remained at 99% usage the whole time. gpu temp maxed at 56c and 90% of the time it was 37c, board temps were a constant 27c and power temps were constant at 33c. This card is running at close to the same temps as my 1055t processor which is overclocked to 3.92GHZ. Max cpu temp was 34c

At this point i have no fear of causing damage to the card, it performs better than i could have ever expected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So some time has passed and my mod has worked amazingly. In the past little while i have noticed that my temps have slowly started to rise on the gpu. Nothing to be worried about as I just reached 62c for the first time but consitering that my regular temps are 42c its abit of a change and im sure its the cheap TIM i used. Some daytec stuff i bought from Future Shop when i was in a bind. It had the consistancy of milk to be truthfull. Im sure some of my super high overclocks were responsible for this "cooking of the tim".
I stopped by my fav local pc shop to see what they had for new tim and low and behold they had Artic Sliver 5....3 gram tubes. I picked up a tube and on the way home grabbed some zipstraps. I had a moment while wandering the store...i saw some sandpaper. Ive never lapped anything before and thought if i was going to bust the card down i may as well give it a go. Now as i got my lab ready i had a horrable thought, a horrable awful wonderfull thought. There is a thead here where cakewalk popped off his heatplate covering the acutal chip on the graphics card, can you see where im going with this lol

So here it is. Part 2 of my build log

In this installment ill be removing my IHS (intergrated heat spreader) from my 580 Matrix. Ill be lapping both surfaces and also lapping the surface of my H70. I will doing the TIM on all surfaces with Artic Silver 5. I wont lie, it scared the crap out of me thinking of hitting my gpu with a hammer to sink a razerblade behind the IHS and NOT hitting a resister. Not doing it would have bugged the crap out of me even more...this is what i do, i mod. So here we go along with some nice pics to prove it all.

First shot. Ive removed the H70 pump cutting all the zipstraps, not much to see as ive removed the old tim now. Its more for a comparison shot for later.
6313827158_dd67a3c2d3_b.jpg
IMGP0318 by cravinmild, on Flickr

Now i know this hammer looks old and rusty but trust me, it still works well. I tried tapping with a small wrench but i was not getting anywhere. I went to the shed to get a proper hammer. Took a few minutes to get the razerblade in far enough to pry off the heat spreader. Pretty neat stuff here, never seen this for real, only pics others have posted. Looked to have nice spread of tim and no issues i could see. No turning back now.
6313306835_76e1ae6be9_b.jpg
IMGP0320 by cravinmild, on Flickr

Look at how ruff the surface is here, Im going to clean it up and lap this surface. Being ive not done this and i forgot to look up lapping before starting i had to wing it...
6313829520_a2cd9a9114_b.jpg
IMGP0322 by cravinmild, on Flickr

Nothing really here, its a chip...KIDDING nvidia, its really cool as its the heart of my 580 your seeing here, its going to look even nicer once i clean it up.
6313309355_a03266a051_b.jpg
IMGP0323 by cravinmild, on Flickr

And here it is all cleaned up, nice and shinny too
6313310703_6cb31fda0b_b.jpg
IMGP0325 by cravinmild, on Flickr

Now i will admit, ive seen better lapping jobs. This was the best i could do with the time i had. I started with 400 grit and finnished with 1200grit. Its still better than it was before IMO
6313311875_601d0b6d14_b.jpg
IMGP0328 by cravinmild, on Flickr

This was much harder to lap as there is a lip around the spreader. I had to cut some chunks and rub the inside with my finger. The outer edges are still dull but compaired to the gravel surface it was before im pretty happy with how it turned out.
6313312777_711af87fa2_b.jpg
IMGP0329 by cravinmild, on Flickr

Now the H70 did not come out as nice as i hoped, the original finnish had really deep lines in the surface. It was shipped that way and were not scratches, just the way they are i guess. It took ALOT of time to get it even this smooth, i used most of the sandpaper on this part of the mod. I also took alot of surface off, my screws are much closer now. I saw a definate dip to the middle of the surface, not flat by any measure.
6313313725_0fa7268ac2_b.jpg
IMGP0332 by cravinmild, on Flickr

I started with the pea size drop the first time but i was not happy with the results when i lifted up the heatspreader to check it. I wanted it right the first time as this is more than a simple re and re to get back to this point. I ended up trying several methods here and ended up using the credit card method to spread the tim across the whole surface and then adding a small dab to the middle for good luck
6313314889_dc307b56e5_b.jpg
IMGP0336 by cravinmild, on Flickr

Here is what the pea method did for the spread...Not to good imo
6313315733_379c34f4cf_b.jpg
IMGP0337 by cravinmild, on Flickr

And here we go, all back together again.
6313837844_851ebc1406_b.jpg
IMGP0339 by cravinmild, on Flickr

Thats it for the pics, proof indeed lol
Ive only started the pc and did this update so far. Once the kids are down and im sure its not going to blow up ill try some stress tests and see what the new temps are. I dont know if this has cure time but ill not be going for a oc tonight, just benchmark the card for now at stock. So far the temps were 26c on startup but now sitting at 31c pretty much the same as before, its the stress tests where ill see if there is an improvement. I left everything the same as before the re & re so i could see if there are changes so fans are still 1200rpm and the pump is still set the same off the fan header to the mobo. Room temp is 78f right now....i was cooking dinner and using the oven. Ill post back once i get a chance........
 

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Cravin, I suggest you sand down the edges of the heat spreader alot more.

As you see in guide pictures I sanded down the edges of the heat spreader alot more. Also did you scrape off some of the glue on the silicon? The black stuff?

Yours:
6313315733_379c34f4cf_b.jpg

Mine:
6300480936_181eb658e0_b.jpg


As you see there's barely any TIM on the heat spreader, that's the point, the surfaces are in contact with eachother, the edges of the heat spreader don't even hit the silicon anymore, or if it does, its not the main point of contact. It looks like the edges of your heat spreader are hitting before the heat spreader center is hitting the actual chip, hence the need for sanding it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
My lows have dropped but it was also cooler outside last night. The spread in the TIM is what one would expect when using the pea method. I used the card method after seeing how the spread worked. There is a nice fit here as you can see in the outer most area of the ring spread...its perfectly thin. The middle is only upset because of the lifting of the spreader to check.

Now with that said if i can get better ill be redoing it again. The spreader was not glued down and ill get another go at it.

I used the credit card method and spread it evenly, removed and checked again, looked pretty good to me.

The test will show though right and i plan on doing lots today. ill post back.
 
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