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Core i7 Build rough draft of sorts.

422 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Taiki
Hello, kind of new here, but I'm sick of my HP slimline (horrible decision.. ugh) and I was going to get this put together for roughly $1,173.
I added the cost for all the parts separately (Newegg) and they cost just about as much to have this put together by a company.
With the "Standard 3-Year Limited Warranty + Lifetime Technical Support", I think I'm better off letting a qualified company put my $200+ i7 in anyway, plus they promise "Professional wiring for all cables inside the system tower."

Here goes:

- NZXT Guardian 921
- 600w PSU
- Intel Core i7 Processor 920 (4x 2.66GHz/8MB L3 Cache) [Plan to OC.. Duh]
- Tuniq TX-2 High Performance Thermal Compound [Was recommended..?]
- Asetek Liquid CPU Cooling Fan System Kit (States a 50k hour lifetime)
[I only plan to get this specific brand of water cooler because, with this build, it's covered by Warranty for 3-years, unless I'm talked out of W/Cing as a necessity.]
- Asus P6T Intel X58 Chipset
- 6 GB [2 GB X3] DDR3-1333 Triple Memory Module by Corsair [Could go with "XMS3 Dominator w/DHX technology" but I don't know what that is..]
- ATI Radeon 4850 512mb [Unless for some reason I SHOULD buy the 1gb]
- 500 GB HARD DRIVE [Serial-ATA-II, 3Gb, 7200 RPM, 16M Cache]
- LG 20X Dual Format/Double Layer DVD±R/±RW + CD-R/RW Drive
- Going to try the stock Temp Gauges at first for the sake of my wallet.

Just wanted to ask if this all looked like it would work well together. Kind of a min/max build, as I wanted a few high end parts, but to have it work on a "slightly higher than budget" build.
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Welcome to OCN.

I'd recommend you get a 1600mhz ram kit instead of 1333. A lot of people recommend these, but if you're tight on cash, these are great as well.

Depending on your monitor resolution, I'd probably recommend you get a 4870 instead of a 4850.
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Thank you, and also thanks for replying


I have a 22 inch so I'm at 1680x1050.
And after I posted this, I actually compared the 4850 to the 9800GTX+ (the one to compare it to I guess) and it does quite a bit better in a lot of categories, at my resolution, for just a little bit more.

I was going to try something besides Nvidia this time around but maybe not
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That liquid cooling kit will be woefully insufficent if you intend to seriously OC the CPU. Either fork over the money for some serious water cooling components, or get a decent air cooler.

What are the specifics on the PSU?

Don't bother paying extra for the Dominators, but if you can get 1600 for a similar price, go for it. If not 1333 is perfectly sufficent.
Dominators are a rip, you are paying for that extra cool heat sinkage, just get those other ones, then buy the corsair memory fan cooler.
Shouldn't even need the memory cooler, most DDR3 runs rather cool unless you really pour on the voltage.
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Quote:


Originally Posted by Blameless
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That liquid cooling kit will be woefully insufficent if you intend to seriously OC the CPU. Either fork over the money for some serious water cooling components, or get a decent air cooler.

Cool cool, I really didn't know which is why I came here
but yeah, I'll probably stick to air then. I don't know how much I'm actually going to push the processor, as I'm sure it'll be a huge upgrade right out of the box, but it is good to know it DOES have OC potential (from numerous reviews) and that when I get to it, it can handle it extremely well.

The only heatsink/fan option from the site is:
CPU Fan and Heatsink
Fan Speed:3200 RPM
Air Flow Rate:33.96 CFM
Wind Pressure:3.23 mmap
Rating Current:0.15A
Rating Voltage:12V
If that's inefficient, is it possible to take a heatsink/fan off of a processor once it's been applied? Or does that sound iffy considering it's an i7..

Going with the linked OCZ, although while the company does have it, and it's only $30 more, the specs on newegg are slightly different that the site's, notably the Cas Latency and the Timing:
OCZ-Platinum 6 GB [2 GB X3] DDR3-1600 Triple Memory Module
Type: 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM
Speed: DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Cas Latency: 7 (Newegg's is 8)
Timing: 7-7-7-24 (Newegg's is 8-8-8-24)
Volt: 1.65
Heat Spreader: Yes

And lastly, specs for the currect selected psu:
600 Watt -- Power Supply
Type: ATX12V Ver.2.2/EPS12V
-Ideal for Intel/AMD dual-core CPU
-NVIDIA® SLI™ READY
-ATI CrossFire Certified
-Dual +12V rails
-Active Power Factor Correction (PFC) Circuit
-Universal input with PFC- 90V to 264V
-Embedded thermal sensor
-Reliable 120mm ball-bearing fan w/Blue LED
-20+4-pin MB connector
-4 Pin +12V x 1
-8 Pin +12V x 1
-Peripheral power connector x 6
-Serial ATA connector x 2
-Floppy power connector x 2
-PCI Express connector x 2
-Easy-plug connector
-Sleeved cables
-UL, CSA, FCC
-Build-in protection against over-load, over-voltage, over-temperature, over-current and short-circuitry
-Automatic fan speed control to achieve optimum balance between effective cooling and acoustic noise

Again, any input is good input, I have a good month or so before I'm going to go ahead with an order. Do it once, do it right... right?
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Well, getting closer to actually ordering this. Only have the few questions left.

1. Is it (easily) possible to take a heatsink/fan off of a processor once it's been applied? The one that comes on it stock with the build looks fairly generic.
Fan Speed:3200 RPM
Air Flow Rate:33.96 CFM
Wind Pressure:3.23 mmap
Rating Current:0.15A
Rating Voltage:12V

2. Would the 600w PSU in my last post be enough to power the i7/GTX+/etc? What about if I were to add another gtx+? What should I be looking for?

3. I currently have the Asus P6T Intel X58 Chipset in mind, is the Deluxe MB worth the $90?

Thanks for any help in advance, trying to have it go as smoothly as possible without the sales rep selling me something extra I don't need.
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Quote:


Originally Posted by Taiki
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1. Is it (easily) possible to take a heatsink/fan off of a processor once it's been applied? The one that comes on it stock with the build looks fairly generic.

Yes. Just reverse the installation steps
It can be quite difficult to pull a heatsink off when the CPU hasn't been running for a while because the thermal paste has cooled. I have this problem mostly with Arctic Silver 5. Just thought I'd mention it because I've bent pins on a processor after tearing it right out of the socket while attempting to remove a heatsink.
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Quote:

Originally Posted by Guruboy View Post
It can be quite difficult to pull a heatsink off when the CPU hasn't been running for a while because the thermal paste has cooled.
lol, so would it be a good idea to run it on medium load for a while before removing it?

I'd be building the PC myself, if I trusted myself to drop an i7 in


I guess I'm also going with an 800w PSU.

Only question left I guess is the worth of the 'Deluxe' Asus Mobo.
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