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Reviews

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7359/corsair-obsidian-750d-case-review

http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/chassis/60485-corsair-obsidian-series-750d/

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/corsair_obsidian_750d_review,1.html

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=355

Rad Mounts
Through reviews and other threads (i.e. OC3D Review (23:45)
. The roof rad space is approximately 85mm (80 to be absolutely safe). With that, options would be a 30mm in P/P, a 45mm in Push or Pull, or a 60mm in Push or Pull (using commonly used rad thickness). The 360 XTX is 64mm thick, just missing the "safe" mark. All of these choices however are dependent on what you are putting on the 5.25" drive bays.

As stated anything out of those "norm" setups will require an offset, and if you are keeping the 5.25" drive bay, you are left with approx 20mm of offset to clear the motherboard .

360 on top, 280 in front, 240 on bottom
Mounting a 420 Radiator

Mounting a 420 Radiator in the top of a 750D by Aemonn
Mounting a 420 radiator into the top of a 750D is possible, but there are a few things that must be considered. My install is with the 5.25 bay removed but this is not necessary to get the radiator to fit. The only modification that is required to the 5.25 bay is you must bend one of the metal support rails for a 5.25 device out of the way.

Regarding the thickness of the radiator that can fit here... I have seen others fit 45mm 420 radiators in the top, but as I only have experience installing a 30mm radiator that is what I will cover in this post. It is important to note that while a 45mm thick radiator will fit it raises a few more concerns that will need to be addressed and/or considered.

Circled in yellow in the below picture you can see an example of one of the support rails you would either need to cut off or bend out of the way. of course, the actual rail is higher up but this is simply for illustrative purposes. It's a very minor mod and can be achieved with a pair of pliers wrapped in duct/electrical tape to prevent marring the metal.
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The two primary areas of concern are your clearance to top section of your motherboard (8 pin CPU connector, mosfet cooling, IO shroud) and the rear fan. Once these have been considered, the rest is literally a bolt on application.

Here you can see the clearance between the radiator and the top of the motherboard. There is about 18-20mm of clearance here with a 30mm radiator and 25mm fans. Technically, a 45mm radiator will just fit but there will be little to no room for routing cables to the top of your motherboard and more importantly, without major modifications to the case a 45mm radiator will make maintaining or upgrading your computer in the future require a full drain and removal of the radiator.
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The main area of the install that will require consideration is the inlet/outlet of the radiator. As you can see, it just barely fits with my fan installed. I actually had to install the fan last and press it up against my 90deg fitting. If you look carefully you can see the fan shroud being pressed in slightly by the bitspower fitting. I was also forced to use barb fittings here as the added diameter of compression fittings prevented the fan from being installed.
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The inner most inlet/outlet has the possibility of running into your motherboard I/O or mosfet cooling in addition to the rear fan. If your motherboard has a shroud or special cooling in this area it is something that will need to be considered. You really can't see it in the below picture, but the IO of my motheboard is as much int he way as the rear fan. This required the use of a barb even more so than the other port as the IO has absolutely no flex to it and things cant be forced into place. In order to use the rigid acrylic compression fitting I had to use a 40mm extension fitting off of the 90deg fitting to achieve the clearances I required. If you want to use compression fittings an easy solution would be to use extension fittings off both 90deg fittings. A 40mm extension for the inner most port and a 20mm for the outer most port (the port closest to the window) should do the trick.
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**edit** here is a better picture.
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A completely different way to address these clearance issues would be to run your radiator with the ports at the front of the case. However, this comes with it's own set of trade-offs in the form of longer tube runs or a less clean look. If you are planning on using rigid tubing this becomes much less of a concern as long runs with rigid tubing can be made to look very clean and the added liquid volume in your loop will make your fluid take longer to reach temperature. If you choose to go this route, make sure you have a sufficiently sized pump to cover the longer runs.

The last thing you will need to know when installing an alphacool radiator in particular. The mounting bolts that come with the Nexxxos radiators have very small diameter heads on them. I had to use washers to allow a proper mounting of the radiator. You could opt to purchase new bolts instead of washers. Not a huge deal, but worth mentioning.
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And there you have it. With a 30mm radiator Its really quite a simple install once you've considered how you will route your tubing to the inlet/outlet.
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STANDOFF'S
Standoff's are already mounted on the case
The standoffs are (Built into the case) the bumps/volcano looking things in the case....The little bumps that raise your board away from the surface of the case.

Mounting an ASUS Maximus VI Formula in the corsair 750D

I find it incredible how many of us are using the Maximus VI Formula with the 750D....
This seems to be a very common concern. I'm going to do my best to shed as much light as possible on this.
By brandon6199

Just so you all know, with the current Corsair 750D (includes all 750D's purchased in 2013 or prior). There are certain issues with the method that the motherboard standoffs are positioned, which causes issues when installing a motherboard with "armor" or a frontplate/backplate. The most popular being the ASUS Maximus VI Formula Z87 motherboard. Users have found, (and also confirmed) that with the backplate installed on the M6F, you are not able to properly screw down the motherboard into the motherboard tray of the 750D mainly due to the following 2 reasons:
1.) Issue: The current Corsair 750D has a built in center standoff that interferes with the installation with the ASUS Maximus VI Formula.

Solution: This can be removed by using a set of pliers and unscrewing the standoff and removing it entirely from the case, allowing you to successfully install the M6F with backplate once step two is complete.

2.) Issue: The screws that are included with the case/motherboard (usually 6-32 x 1/4") are not long enough to pass through the motherboard and armor and reach the threads in the motherboard tray.

Solution: This can be fixed by purchasing your own 6-32 x 3/8" length screws from any hardware store. The type of head on the screw is entirely up to you. For reference, here are the screws that I purchased and found to work perfectly. http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/24017?searchMode=productSearch&zipcode=&filterByStore=&filterByVendingMachine=&productSearchQueryString=term%3D1124017%26searchMode%3DproductSearch

There are some rumors and speculation that Corsair is going to be offering a revised version of the 750D with a different position for the standoffs, which would allow you to fit your M6F with backplate without any additional screws or modifications. For those of us who don't have the revised 750D, this is a quick and easy solution to getting that backplate to fit in your case.

Here is an image of the Maximus VI Formula with backplate installed.
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Here are some images of the 6-32 x 3/8" screws that I used. NOTE: You may notice that I used some rubber washers in these images. I ended up removing them due to the fact that the screws need to make contact with the solder points on the motherboard. I recommend not using any washers or o-rings at all.
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This is an image of the center standoff in the 750D that comes pre-installed. This needs to be removed with a set of pliers. It is a screw, so be sure to loosen it and remove it from the case. Do NOT try yanking it out! You'll probably damage your motherboard tray. Just unscrew it.
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Once you've gotten a hold of some 6-32 x 3/8" screws and you've removed the center standoff, it's as easy as lining up the motherboard with the threads on the tray, and screwing the motherboard in. I've found that it helps having a second hand to apply some pressure to the motherboard towards the I/O shield plate, allowing you to screw the motherboard down a little easier. You may notice the holes don't line up perfectly at first, but that's OK. The I/O shield plate is quite thick and naturally pushes the M6F away, causing the holes to be slightly offset. Luckily, the I/O shield plate has a padding that can compress, which means that with a little bit of muscle, you'll get it to fit with no problems.
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And that's it!

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You've now successfully installed your M6F with backplate into your 750D with very little effort.

Corsair obsidian Series 750D Full Tower ATX Case
Overview~~Tech specs~~FAQ & Support[/COLOR]
http://www.corsair.com/en/pc-cases/obsidian-series-pc-case/obsidian-series-750d-full-tower-atx-case.html

Sig Owner's code
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Corsair 750D Owners Club
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i dont have the case yet... but would like to be following new builds on this Case tho... probably next year gonna be switching to this case for WC purposes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is mine....


Just waiting on my water cooling parts to start coming in....Should have my 360 and 240 rads/ gpu-cpu blocks and a couple fittings and tube hopefully tomorrow if not on tuesday,then i hope that come next week i will be able to have all my parts ready for the build....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliteReplay View Post

i dont have the case yet... but would like to be following new builds on this Case tho... probably next year gonna be switching to this case for WC purposes.
Same here i have been looking all over the net for a build by anyone cant seem to find any,i am looking forward to seeing the builds that the new owners come up with,may even help me to get some idea's of how to do mine....
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamaican Reaper View Post

This is mine....


Just waiting on my water cooling parts to start coming in....Should have my 360 and 240 rads/ gpu-cpu blocks and a couple fittings and tube hopefully tomorrow if not on tuesday,then i hope that come next week i will be able to have all my parts ready for the build....
hehe nice man, but cant see it yet... im at work and internet just let me read and post... i cant click on the spoiler to open the pictures xD
 

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Discussion Starter #11




My parts are slowly coming in,hopefully between now and the next 2 weeks i will have all my parts....
 

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@JamaicanReaper

Which XSPC 360 did you have installed on top?

Edit: NVM. It's an EX360. Glad to know the parts are coming in. Hope to see the build soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljs17 View Post

@JamaicanReaper

Which XSPC 360 did you have installed on top?
I have the EX 360 installed....
 

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The rubber grommets are a reasonable idea but the 3mm allen bolts that come with Alphacool rads slide right through them. I only had a few washers around so this will do till I can find some black ones.



Magnetic radiator filter on first, and magnetic mesh covers it nicely! Doesn't sit up or appear obvious ... I was worried how this would turn out.









Erk ... terrible pics as usual. Will try better tomorrow. Quite good initial impressions
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljs17 View Post

I'm on my phone so everything's like teeny-tiny
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Didn't see the label right away. Thanks though!
No Prob....
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Discussion Starter #17
Quote:
Originally Posted by koniu777 View Post

Here is mine, sorry for the messy tubing this is just temporary till I order some acrylic tubing from primochill.


Good to see the first build in the club....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakusonfire View Post











[/SPOILER

Erk ... terrible pics as usual. Will try better tomorrow. Quite good initial impressions
Nice build mate,did you try using the bottom 240 because im having problems mounting my rad there,may have to do like you and mount it upfront even tho my build plan was for a 360 top and a 240 at the bottom....
 

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I wonder one thing: If You mount 240rad on the bottom in horizontal position, where can You 'mount' HDD drive ?

@Jakusonfire

Why did You mount 240 rad with the fittings in the lower position ? Would not it be easier to have the rad upside down ? Then You would not have to use those angle adapters.
 

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It is an XT45 360 in the roof. The front 240 is that way to make it easier to include the flow meter into the loop. I'm just testing some different arrangements before I change to acrylic tubing anyway. This loop is very temporary just to get the system running. There is a second layer of fans going on too.

I actually didn't try the bottom 240 mount and I meant to, I won't use it because I want storage and other factors but I did mean to investigate it. From looking at it quickly today, only a very short end tank would fit there ... something like the Koolance CU720V

 
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