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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,

Recently got my first water cooling loop all up and running with an EK supremacy EVO AMD CPU block for my 2700x. When I fired it up and saw the idle temps for the CPU being between 42°C and 48°C I was already a little disappointed, as I was expecting them to be a bit lower. The real disappointment happened when I fired up prime95, though. Straight away the CPU temps skyrocket to 75-80°C degrees, after which they slowly climbed for the next 10 to 15 minutes to settle around 90°C.

I've already removed the CPU block and reapplied a standard dot of thermal paste, but no dice. Everything is tightened as far as it goes as well.
The fact that the temperature shoots up to almost 80°C pretty much instantly when I start a stress test makes me think that something isn't right either on the side of the water block or the CPU itself, like there's some spot where there's no good contact.


My GTX 1070 Ti is also connected to my loop with an EK-FC1080 GTX block on it and that never runs hotter than 40°C right now, so it does seem like the loop is doing its work for the rest...



Any advice?
 

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How many radiators and what pump?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
D5 pump with a PE 240 radiator (2x Vardar F4-120ER fans). Both fans and pump running full speed.
 

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How many radiators and what pump?
Exactly what i was going to ask lol. My 2700x witha 240/360 both in push/pull peaks at around 60-65°C (now that i bought a mobile AC machine it keeps water temps down), while gaming and doing whatever else it never goes past 50°C usually hovering around 45°C. My guess, when you removed it to change the jet plate you might have put it on wrong or you don't have it sitting right. On my 4690k, 1700x and now 2700x i use 4mm round washers under the springs of the ekwb, i noticed that sometimes the edge of the coil will actually sit inside the gap of the waterblock mounting bracket, witht he washer it sits flush.

D5 pump with a PE 240 radiator (2x Vardar F4-120ER fans). Both fans and pump running full speed.
Yea you might be past the max dissipation of that 240 rad. I think they're good for around 200w or so. You still shouldn't be hitting 90°C though. If you're looking at afterburner it might be reporting your temps wrong, download hwinfo64 and look at your idle temps compared to your ambient temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As far as max dissipation goes I really can't imagine I'm hitting it as I'm only stress testing one component at a time, either the CPU or the GPU. Not both at the same time.
I am indeed using hwinfo for monitoring the temperatures.



I'll try stuffing a couple of washers in there to see if that helps!
 

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Hi,

Recently got my first water cooling loop all up and running with an EK supremacy EVO AMD CPU block for my 2700x. When I fired it up and saw the idle temps for the CPU being between 42°C and 48°C I was already a little disappointed, as I was expecting them to be a bit lower. The real disappointment happened when I fired up prime95, though. Straight away the CPU temps skyrocket to 75-80°C degrees, after which they slowly climbed for the next 10 to 15 minutes to settle around 90°C.

I've already removed the CPU block and reapplied a standard dot of thermal paste, but no dice. Everything is tightened as far as it goes as well.
The fact that the temperature shoots up to almost 80°C pretty much instantly when I start a stress test makes me think that something isn't right either on the side of the water block or the CPU itself, like there's some spot where there's no good contact.


My GTX 1070 Ti is also connected to my loop with an EK-FC1080 GTX block on it and that never runs hotter than 40°C right now, so it does seem like the loop is doing its work for the rest...



Any advice?
Yeah that is not normal. Perhaps you have the flow going the wrong way through the block? Also how is the loop setup? It should go cpu - gpu - rad- cpu

240 rad probably isn't enough for the loop but no way should your cpu temps be that high. Your gpu temps look normal.

Take apart and reseat and check the you haven't incorrectly hooked up the cpu block to the loop.
 

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Yeah that is not normal. Perhaps you have the flow going the wrong way through the block? Also how is the loop setup? It should go cpu - gpu - rad- cpu

240 rad probably isn't enough for the loop but no way should your cpu temps be that high. Your gpu temps look normal.

Take apart and reseat and check the you haven't incorrectly hooked up the cpu block to the loop.
Eh, loop order doesn't really matter honestly, ive tried every which way and get identical temps, I'd say rad placement will make a bigger difference then loop order. I think he may have it reinstalled backwards, the internals, it's not uncommon. Either that or it's not getting the correct mounting pressure for whatever reason.
 

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Eh, loop order doesn't really matter honestly, ive tried every which way and get identical temps, I'd say rad placement will make a bigger difference then loop order. I think he may have it reinstalled backwards, the internals, it's not uncommon. Either that or it's not getting the correct mounting pressure for whatever reason.
If someone went rez-gpu-cpu-rad it could hurt temps a bit, but I think cpu block on wrong way round or not flush.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'd read loop order doesn't make much difference, like VicsPC mentioned. Currently it's res->cpu->rad->gpu.
The CPU block is installed as per the manual and the inlet is the port closest to the middle (also marked inlet). Haven't disassembled the CPU block at all for the rest.


I'll see what happens when I add the extra washers to get a snugger fit.
 

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If someone went rez-gpu-cpu-rad it could hurt temps a bit, but I think cpu block on wrong way round or not flush.
Water doesn't spend enough time in one component to make any difference. Mine is res>cpu>gpu>rad>rad then back into the rest. Water flows so quick over each component it doesn't just heat it up that quickly that's the beauty of water cooling. It's why even pump speed (depending on how restrictive your blocks are) and pump head are more important then loop order. I think he's got something not on right, someone else posted about their ek block going up high temps, turns out they had the fins re installed the wrong way, meaning instead of going straight into all of em it was probably going straight into a couple of em lol.
 

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I'd read loop order doesn't make much difference, like VicsPC mentioned. Currently it's res->cpu->rad->gpu.
The CPU block is installed as per the manual and the inlet is the port closest to the middle (also marked inlet). Haven't disassembled the CPU block at all for the rest.


I'll see what happens when I add the extra washers to get a snugger fit.
If i remember correctly you do need to disassemble it to put the AMD jet plate and jet inset as well for AMD parts. I'd check the manual to be sure, pretty sure ihad to do that going from my 4690k to 1700x.
 

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Are your radiators fans blowing into the case. That will make massive difference as youll be heating the res up. You sort of need to know water temp as the res to know how well the block is working.
 

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quiet simple we need pic's of the setup and the block ..
and yes you have to split an ek block to get it on a amd system .. maybe that's his problem ?
 

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If i remember correctly you do need to disassemble it to put the AMD jet plate and jet inset as well for AMD parts. I'd check the manual to be sure, pretty sure ihad to do that going from my 4690k to 1700x.
The AMD version comes with the correct jet plates in place so it's not the issue here.

quiet simple we need pic's of the setup and the block ..
Agreed ^^
 

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The AMD version comes with the correct jet plates in place so it's not the issue here.



Agreed ^^
Right but all he wrote was AMD CPU block, could mean supremacy evo running on his AMD lol. If it is then AM4 specific version then yea it wouldn't need to be taken apart but my guess is he's used to Intel reading out correct temperatures while ryzen doesn't. For both my 1700x and 2700x i go into the BIOS and enable misense skew then i get a normal reading.
 

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Right but all he wrote was AMD CPU block, could mean supremacy evo running on his AMD lol. If it is then AM4 specific version then yea it wouldn't need to be taken apart but my guess is he's used to Intel reading out correct temperatures while ryzen doesn't. For both my 1700x and 2700x i go into the BIOS and enable misense skew then i get a normal reading.
If it's the case, then you would be right. :)

He would have to swap the jet plate and the insert. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Hi guys,


Thanks for all the tips!
I am indeed using the block that fits right on the AM4 backplate.
Last week-end I ended up adding some washers for more mounting pressure and that took a good 10°C off the max temps!
As VicsPC also mentioned I was apparently looking at the wrong temperatures. Was looking at the Tctl temps vs Tdie (which apparently are the correct ones). That's also a 10°C difference. So basically my CPU temperature goes up to around 70-75°C under full load from prime95. With fans running full speed both CPU and GPU stay around 50°C during fortnite or GTA 5 and even with the fans at 50% temps for both stay around 60° (ambient temperature 28°).


It's all mounted in an ncase M1 mini-ITX case with basically no room for airflow, so it's bound to be doing a worse job than most comparable larger rigs.


Thanks a lot for all the advice! Very pleased with how everything is running now!
 

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Hi guys,


Thanks for all the tips!
I am indeed using the block that fits right on the AM4 backplate.
Last week-end I ended up adding some washers for more mounting pressure and that took a good 10°C off the max temps!
As VicsPC also mentioned I was apparently looking at the wrong temperatures. Was looking at the Tctl temps vs Tdie (which apparently are the correct ones). That's also a 10°C difference. So basically my CPU temperature goes up to around 70-75°C under full load from prime95. With fans running full speed both CPU and GPU stay around 50°C during fortnite or GTA 5 and even with the fans at 50% temps for both stay around 60° (ambient temperature 28°).


It's all mounted in an ncase M1 mini-ITX case with basically no room for airflow, so it's bound to be doing a worse job than most comparable larger rigs.


Thanks a lot for all the advice! Very pleased with how everything is running now!
Glad its working out. To make tctl read right you enable miskew or wtv its called in the BIOS. My afterburner and tctl now read correctly i dont use tdie.
 
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