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Specifications:
27Q LED/LED-P (product page / product page)
LCD type: LG S-IPS 8-bit LED
Viewable image size: 27.0"
Pixel area: 0.2331mm²
Max brightness: 380 cd/m²
Contrast ratio: 1000:1
Color support: 16 million
Color gamut: 72%
Resolution: 2560 × 1440 @ 60Hz
Horizontal frequency: 30 ~ 81kHz
Vertical frequency: 56 ~ 75Hz
Response time: 6ms (GTG)
Viewing angle: 178°/178°
Video port: (1) DVI (dual-link)
Power source: DC 24V 5A
Power consumption: <65W, <1W standby
VESA support: Yes (100 x 100 mm)
Display measurements: 645 (W) X 385 (H) X 445 (T) mm
Weight: ~15 lbs
27M LED (product page)
LCD type: LG S-IPS 8-bit LED
Viewable image size: 27.0"
Pixel area: 0.2331mm²
Max brightness: 380 cd/m²
Contrast ratio: 1000:1
Color support: 16 million
Color gamut: 72%
Resolution: 2560 × 1440 @ 60Hz
Horizontal frequency: 30 ~ 81kHz
Vertical frequency: 56 ~ 75Hz
Response time: 6ms (GTG)
Viewing angle: 178°/178°
Video ports: (1) DVI (dual-link), (1) HDMI, (2) D-sub, Component
Additional ports: USB, SPDIF, PC audio
Speaker: 14W (7W+7W, stereo)
Power source: DC 24V 5A
Power consumption: 95W (max), 65W (nominal), 3W (standby)
VESA support: Yes (100 x 100 mm)
Display measurements: 645 (W) X 395 (H) X 445 (T) mm
Weight: ~24 lbs
2720MDP GOLD LED (product page)
LCD type: LG S-IPS 10-bit LED
Viewable image size: 27.0"
Pixel area: 0.2331mm²
Max brightness: 420 cd/m²
Contrast ratio: 1000:1
Color support: 1 billion
Color gamut: 72%
Resolution: 2560 × 1440 @ 60Hz
Horizontal frequency: 30 ~ 81kHz
Vertical frequency: 56 ~ 75Hz
Response time: 6ms (GTG)
Viewing angle: 178°/178°
Video ports: (1) DVI (dual-link), (1) Display Port, (2) HDMI, (1) D-sub, Component
Additional ports: SPDIF, PC audio
Speaker: 14W (7W+7W, stereo)
Power source: DC 24V 5A
Power consumption: 95W (max), 65W (nominal), 3W (standby)
VESA support: Yes (100 x 100 mm)
Display measurements: 650 (W) X 405 (H) X 490 (T) mm
Weight: ~20 lbs
Pictures
Quote:
Quote:Originally Posted by SimpleTech
Some pictures of my Crossover 27Q LED-P from dcsamsungmall.
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Very well wrapped.
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Very light shipping damage. Thank goodness for the bubble wrap.
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Side shot of the packaging showing the miscellaneous things the monitor supports.
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Lots of foam padding inside. Big plus.
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Here's what it looks like at it's default stand height. It measures 17 inches from top to bottom.
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At it's full raised height, it measures 22 inches.
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Pivot to the left.
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Pivot to the right.
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Here's how much it can tilt upwards.
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And how much it can tilt downwards.
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Brightness adjustment and power.
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The buttons are located on the back.
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Full view of the backside. It's a glossy white (powered coated?) aluminum frame that rounds around the top and bottom edges.
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Serial and product numbers.
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The monitor is about 2 inches deep.
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Located underneath are the DC power and dual-link DVI connector.
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Included accessories: power cable, power brick, dual-link DVI cable, and user's manual.
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Closeup of the power brick.
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Unfortunately mine didn't come unscathed. Had a minor chip on the front of the stand. No big deal honestly.
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Monitor height
lowest position: 17 inches
highest position: 22 inches
Stand
length: 10-5/8 inches
depth: 8-1/2 inches
height: 1/2 inch
Bezel is about an inch all round.
Originally Posted by SimpleTech
Here are some more from my previous post. Apologize for the lack of lighting, my basement has two light fixtures.
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From the left side.
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View from the right.
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Completely dark room.
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Now for portrait mode. Measures 27 inches from top to bottom.
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With flash.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSpoon
Okay, guys. I know there were some questions in regards to the internals of the Crossover versus the Yamakasi. While, as I stated earlier, I don't use portrait mode, I was curious why I (and I believe one other) could not fully rotate.
Note: Again, forgive the pictures. I do not have a real camera. They should still contain the information wanted.
This is the back of the stand with the monitor and plastic cap removed. As you can see, the base on the left side is warped - probably due to shipping this monitor with the stand on. I gripped the left side as close to the front (closest to the monitor) as I could and pulled it away from the center of the base. I also has to pull the right side into the base probably 1° in, and I now have level portrait mode...
That I'll never use.
Moving on! I decided while the monitor was apart I'd take pictures of all the PCBs and any other miscellany.
This is found mounted on the right side of the back. You can see it through the vents on the back of your monitor.
Other side of same PCB.
Sticker on my panel. Picture works, thumbnail doesn't.
Here is the second PCB I came across.
Closeup of MFGR/Model/Revision of same PCB
Would this be DisplayPort?![]()
Here is the last PCB I could find. This one and the previous hook up via the flat cable that you see in the previous PCB and the slot in the middle of this one. I couldn't get a picture of the backside of this PCB, I wasn't feeling dexterous at the time.
Close up of MFGR/Model/ PN of PCB.
Reassembly tip for the sides:
Well, that's it! I haven't looked at the Yamakasi PCBs to know the difference. Any information on that'd be great.
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by hv43082
Got my 2nd and 3rd Crossover LED-P yesterday from Samsung_Korea seller. I paid for it Tuesday morning and delivered to Southern CA Thursday afternoon. Amazing. He shipped in plain box with less packing than DCSamsungMall but both monitors are working just fine. All 3 of my power bricks are 230V rated but worked fine with regular power cable. My new battle station is here.
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Videos
http://www.tagstory.com/video/100071738
Reviews
- Playwares -- 27Q LED
- PCBee -- 27Q LED-P
- CoolenJoy -- 27Q LED-P
- Playwares -- 2720MDP GOLD LED
FAQs
1. What is this I keep hearing about the power brick?
Users are reporting that the supplied power adapter isn't compatible with US outlets (110v). The text reads, "AC 230V ~ 50/60Hz 1.2A". I have personally tested it with my multimeter and was able to get a constant 60Hz line frequency and ~24v DC. If you're still paranoid, you can buy a similar adapter on eBay or a step down/up transformer. Some users have contacted dcsamsungmall whom acknolwedges the problem and will replace the adapter free of charge (maybe not).
Quote:
Originally Posted by adeptus
I just got not 1 but 3 replies back from dcsamsungmall regarding the power adapters with the Crossover monitors. Here they are:
Quote:
Quote:FROM: dcsamsungmall
Hi,
New update for adaptor.
I have got answer from manufacture technician team.
They don't recommend to use 220v adaptor at USA. It can cause some problem.
Appropriated adopter should be used.
We are planning purchase free volt adaptor but is little bit expensive.
So it effect price of crossover monitor in the future.
Thank you
Then, this last one below seemed like a generic email sent out likely to his various customers thus far, as opposed to the two above which were private messages to me on ebay...FROM: dcsamsungmall
From today we will replace the adopter for 110v adaptor to US.CANADA
You can get 110v adaptor.
Quote:
Here is the original email again that I had sent him just yesterday:FROM: dcsamsungmall
Hi,
Thank you for shopping from us.
We believe you are using our crossover monitor without problem.
But some customer who are live in USA $ CANADA has complaint regarding A/C Adapter.
We believe you are using this monitor with correct A/C adapter (110v) , but if you are still using A/C Adapter for Korea (220v).
It could be trouble in the future. So we recommend you to change to appropriated adaptor.
If you have inquiry please feel free contact me.
Dcsamsungmall
Best regards
Quote:
TO: dcsamsungmall
It seems you are selling many of these monitors to USA & Canada. I know because I learned about it on an internet forum. Recently some people have been having problems with these monitors just stop working and we are wondering if this is because of the power brick that it ships with - Picture:http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/4660/dsc0785.png In USA & Canada the voltage is 110-120V, but the power brick shows 220V. Can you please inquire with the manufacturer if it is safe to connect this power adapter to 120V or if this could cause problems with the monitor or even cause a fire?If the manufacturer says we should not run it at 110-120V, can you please ask for exact specifications of power adapter, ideally if you have a URL of a model number we can buy only to replace it? Thanks in advance!
Quote:
Originally Posted by akg102
UPDATE:
I messaged dcSamsungMall about my troubles with the power red light and no picture post. He spoke to the manufacturer and they said that it was adapter 'inconsistency.' It's not that none of the adapters can handle US voltage....but the inconsistency with which that translates to 24v is the problem.
HE IS GOING TO SHIP ME A COMPATIBLE ADAPTER.....FREE OF CHARGE.
If you're going to buy a Crossover, or any other monitor, buy from dcSamsungMall. Excellent customer service.
2. Is this similar to the Yamasaki Catleap, Achieva Shimian, and PCBank 3View I keep hear about?
Yes, they all use the same LG S-IPS 8-bit LED panel. The difference is the circuity that drives the monitor. However, a review for PCBank 3View showed it have a slightly lower input lag than the rest.
3. Then does this monitor overclock?
Currently only early batches of Catleaps (2B) are known to overclock past 60Hz. The same cannot be said about CrossOver which are most likely locked at 60Hz.
4. Are there any US sellers or do I have to buy from someone in Korea?
Since this monitor is strictly produced overseas (mainly S. Korea), the only way in order to get a hold of some in the States is by doing a group order (100+). Right now bQvle is working on acquiring a price estimate for a 100Hz Yamakasi Catleap Q270.
5. What's the difference between the 27Q LED and LED-P?
LED-P can pivot (-P "Pivot") or rotate vertically as shown here. Other than that, they are essentially the same display.
6. Is there any IQ between tempered glass and the regular gloss display?
No difference whatsoever. Same picture quality but the tempered glass model has more of a Apple feel. You also risk getting dust stuck behind the glass barrier.
7. What's the difference between a A-, A or A+ display?
While these use the same LG S-IPS panels found in Dell, HP, or Apple monitors they are the "rejects" so to speak that didn't quite meet the company's quality standards. In our case, we might have some minor backlight bleed (normally found in the bottom right-hand corner) and some dead or stuck pixels.
