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Discussion Starter #1
I'm sick of my crappy white CRT. I want to paint it however I'm not sure what kind of paint I should use. I work at Ace Hardware so I'm familiar with the Krylon brand. In this type of application would it be better to use a primer and auto paint or use the krylon fusion meant for plastic? As far as I can tell the case is made out of metal, but it feels like plastic.

Thanks for your input,

Ken

Also Is there anything else I should do to it while its disassembled?

Pictures:





 

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Filthy Casual
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Window in the back perhaps? Or water cool the tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Quote:

Originally Posted by pow3rtr1p View Post
Or water cool the tube.
More like explode my face with electricity.

I don't think a window would be too exciting, all you would see is the electromagnetic shielding.

Also what color do you think I should paint it? I was thinking hammered grey or black.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was taking some measurements to see if I could fit any fans or CCFL's in there and I found out there's like only one inch. Oh well, I mean is somebody really going to look into the back of a CRT.
 

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yea its made from plastic and that krylon fusion will work fine...sand it down first so its real smooth and doesnt have the normal bumpy texture then primer it and paint it...i painted my cry this metalic aubergine..it looks black normally but when light shines on it, it looks like a really dark metalic purple...ill post pics when i get home from college.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How high do you think I should go on sandpaper? Maybe up to 800grit? And then should I use self-etching primer or just regular?

What color on this page?
 

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personally id go upto 1000 grit..but yea 800 grit is fine and just use normal primer..when the primer dries wet sand it with 1000 grit just so its smooth, dont sand down back to the plastic..then colour coat it.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by kennymester
View Post

How high do you think I should go on sandpaper? Maybe up to 800grit? And then should I use self-etching primer or just regular?

Start with 240 wet and go up to 2000 wet for about half an hour. Then use a primer designed for plastics.
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kennymester View Post
When you say wet do you mean put water on the sand paper or use a damp rag in the process?
warm water, a drop of soap, and some waterproof sandpaper.
heck you could even just run a garden hose to run water along the surface as you sand if you don't wanna use a suds-y bucket.

wipe it down with a clean cloth and let it dry, go up a grit, and literally rinse and repeat
 

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As you probably know, with the Krylon plastic paint, you don't actually need primer. It's specifically made to stick to the plastic without primer, or even sanding, for that matter. I use it as an undercoat for anything I re-paint, that is plastic. I'm also a nut for the Rustoleum brand hammered paints. I'd use them on everything if I could(I can). But, make sure you use the Rustoleum brand and not the American Accents or another brand of hammered paint. They just aren't as good as teh Rustoleum one is.

I have a few CRT's in the next room just collecting dust, and if I had a use for them at the moment, I'd probably re-paint them too. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I ended up using satin black Krylon Fusion. I talked to my paint guy at work and he talked my out of sanding anything. I just finished painting it five minutes ago and it really did work well and the color looks ten times better than crappy white. I'll put up some pics tommorow. I'm still deciding one whether to put in some leds or not.
 

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Cool. Good thing you didn't sand it at all. You'd be dis-appointed.

Can't wait to see the pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I finished the painting last night and I just got done putting her back together. Dang, she looks great with the new paint. If anyone has a 226bw, the paint looks exactally the same. The pictures don't do justice.



















 

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Nice! and props for the ping-pong table.


I've seen people use a gloss black like that, and then add 3 coats of clear-coat and it's real shiny and nice-looking
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The paint guy at work told me that with the plastic paint its better not to add any clearcoat and he said it should hold up really well because the paint burns itself into the plastic. I tested it today on another piece of plastic and after 24 hours it was scratch resistant except for a knife.
 

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Forgot a part at the bottom.


Looks nice.
 
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