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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I have a friend who has some Microsoft certificates and according to him:

When you have a problem with your current version of Windows, if you upgrade it to a newer version, the problem upgrades also.

In another words,say; if you have Windows 8.1 and it has a blue screen error problem that you can't solve, upgrading to Windows 10 will not solve it. The problem will upgrade also and you will get the same error on Windows 10 also.

Is this right? If not, i want to try a Windows upgrade because of this chronic blue screen error i have been experiencing once a month or two. I tried tens of different solutions i found on the net for it but none works.

Thanks
 

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  1. Problems may "compound" or carry over if not fixed correctly when upgrading a Windows version instead of fully installing a new OS if the issue is software/ OS related.
  2. No idea what "upgrading a problem" even means. Maybe your buddy is just trying to say what I said above. Otherwise, his Windows certs should be revoked.
  3. What is the exact issue you're referencing? "Chronic blue screen error" doesn't quite tell anyone what issue you're having.
  4. What fixes have you tried to resolve the issue you're having?
If you offer up a bit more information, you may find a fix without having to upgrade your OS.
 

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I think your friend is right: if there's a problem, then the problem will remain if you upgrade because it's just an upgrade, it's not a complete format and reinstall. You don't need a Microsoft certification to know that.

Now, I would like to figure out what's causing the BSODs. The first thing I looked at was your system to see if it's overclocked and also to see what else is in it. The only possible culprit I see is the power supply. It's a very low-quality "500W" PSU. I'm just going to go out on a limb and say that the PSU is making your system unstable thereby resulting in BSODs.

Edit: I forgot to point out that your PSU is really just a low-quality 400W PSU because the +12V capacity is only 384W.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The Blue screen is a DPC Watchdog violation.
The Blue Screen View images are:

The latest one:


All of them:
jf94ea.png


^ To see it properly, right click and open in a new tab/window.
The K_MODE_EXCEPTION was because of an unstable network program. I just uninstalled it.

TwoCables "+12V capacity is only 384W" : My UPS has an LCD screen and the Load Level never passes 3/4.

Thing i have done for a year now:

- Extended the size of Event log Air space channel.
- Set Event Log Air space channel log to "Overwrite"
- Created a batch file to automatically delete Event logs each startup
- Disabled Event log service.
- Disabled Auto Windows Update.
- Applied this hotfix: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/3029348/-0x00000133-stop-may-occur-on-systems-with-intel-processors-that-are-running-windows-8.1-or-windows-server-2012-r2

- Stop the Nt Kernel Logger in Computer Management/Performance/event trace sessions.
Go to the regedit and search all QUEENCREEK entries and delete.
Start Nt kernel logger and restart windows.
No more 2017_01_12__01_13_29_boot.etl in C:\Program Files\Intel\SUR\QUEENCREEK\ folder.
Delete Intel /Sur too if you dont have any intel software than intel driver utility like me.

- Bought a brand new UPS.
- Shutdown NT Kernel logger by this:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\WMI\GlobalLogger

Set Start to 0

- Changed old antivirus
- Disabled defrag
- Stopped undervolting my GPU
- Applied this:
http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows8_1-hardware/cryptographic-services-failed-while-processing-the/c4274af3-79fb-4412-8ca5-cee721bda112

- Applied this:
The solution I found that fixed this error was posted by streetwolf which was to disable the WSRefreshBannedAppsListTask task in the Task Scheduler. The Task Scheduler is found in Computer Management -> System Tools.

- Decreased shadow copy usage (Disk space usage in System Restore)
- Started using stable WHQL version of AMD GPU driver.
- Started using an old stable WHQL version of my AMD GPU driver.
- Cloned Windows to a new SSD and started using that.
- Turned off Maintenance Tasks from Task Scheduler/Microsoft/Windows/Skydrive
- Disabled OneDrive.
- Disabled 2 Google update apps (belonging to Google Chrome) from Task Scheduler
- Upgraded AOMEI Backupper to latest version
- Selected AOMEI to use internal method, not VSS .
- Turned off Windows Update device driver searching
- Changed chipset drivers
- Uninstalled synaptics drivers
- Deleted all hidden removable USB drivers that belong to the USB storage devices i dont use anymore
- In the Control Panel, Device Installation Settings, selected "No never" and unchecked "Automatically get"

Things that happened/i did a few months *after* the start of the blue screen (they are not the reasons of the blue screen i think):

- Once i ran a stability test on my CPU at 4.2 Ghz. The voltage was 1.30 and it ran 48 hours on 80 degrees.
- The motherboards BIOS can't read the CPU temperature right. So it cant adjust the fan speed right. I run my fan at a fixed speed. Third party apps like Afterburner and CoreTemp can read right.
 

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Power consumption is completely separate from the stability and accuracy of the power being delivered to the computer. A PSU like that has very high ripple and very loose voltage regulation. In other words, very unstable and inaccurate power which leads to instability. It damages the computer in the long-run.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Power consumption is completely separate from the stability and accuracy of the power being delivered to the computer. A PSU like that has very high ripple and very loose voltage regulation. In other words, very unstable and inaccurate power which leads to instability. It damages the computer in the long-run.
Oh ok.
Well i want to add/ask these:

On my new UPS, it sometimes (a few times a day) makes a "tick" noise when the INPUT voltage is a few volts over 240 Volts (it is the standard in my country) and Line mode flashes and it reduces the Output to around 202-206

Which PSU is the best? I remember in some of the threads of the forum, they say "Seasonic" is . I can buy that but the seller company isn't a good one at all.

The models we have here in Turkey are:
http://www.teknobiyotik.com/donanim/psu-guc-kaynagi-power-supply.html?limit=500&manufacturer=2239

The ones that write "Stok tükendi" are not available.

^ EDIT: Forget about this company. I just read lots of bad reviews about them

The most trustable company here is this but they sell only these brands:

http://www.vatanbilgisayar.com/guc-kaynaklari-power/

^ Any of them you recommend?

Thanks
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by adre View Post

Oh ok.
Well i want to add/ask these:

On my new UPS, it sometimes (a few times a day) makes a "tick" noise when the INPUT voltage is a few volts over 240 Volts (it is the standard in my country) and Line mode flashes and it reduces the Output to around 202-206

Which PSU is the best? I remember in some of the threads of the forum, they say "Seasonic" is . I can buy that but the seller company isn't a good one at all.

The models we have here in Turkey are:
http://www.teknobiyotik.com/donanim/psu-guc-kaynagi-power-supply.html?limit=500&manufacturer=2239

The ones that write "Stok tükendi" are not available.

^ EDIT: Forget about this company. I just read lots of bad reviews about them

The most trustable company here is this but they sell only these brands:

http://www.vatanbilgisayar.com/guc-kaynaklari-power/

^ Any of them you recommend?

Thanks
I think the click sound you're hearing is a relay switch. Relay switches are automatically engaged electrically and they're usually loud enough to hear.

The best PSU depends on your needs, your budget and what's available to you (and what the prices are), and the PSU market is set up in such a way where I can't just recommend that you go with a specific brand. I could go on and on for about 3 paragraphs to explain what this means, so I'll spare you and just get right to the PSU recommendations. lol :)

First though, I am very curious about your budget. Is ₺661,54 too expensive? http://www.vatanbilgisayar.com/corsair-rmx-serisi-80plus-gold-750w-full-moduler-guc-kaynagi.html

The reason why I'm asking this first instead of just going ahead and making recommendations is, the selection is very limited and I don't know what the buying power of one Turkish Lira is. Based on how amazingly low current U.S. prices are of the Corsair RMx Series, I am hoping this is amazingly low too. It seems to be low because for only a little bit less, you could buy low-quality PSUs that are really geared more toward tight budgets:

http://www.vatanbilgisayar.com/cooler-master-vanguard-750w-80plus-gold-full-moduler-guc-kaynagi.html

http://www.vatanbilgisayar.com/enthusiast-serisi-txm750-750w-80plus-gold-moduler-guc-kaynagi.html

The RM750x is extremely high-end, and these 2 PSUs don't seem to be much cheaper. So to me, it makes more sense to just spend a few Turkish Lira more to get it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

I think the click sound you're hearing is a relay switch. Relay switches are automatically engaged electrically and they're usually loud enough to hear.

The best PSU depends on your needs, your budget and what's available to you (and what the prices are), and the PSU market is set up in such a way where I can't just recommend that you go with a specific brand. I could go on and on for about 3 paragraphs to explain what this means, so I'll spare you and just get right to the PSU recommendations. lol
smile.gif


First though, I am very curious about your budget. Is ₺661,54 too expensive? http://www.vatanbilgisayar.com/corsair-rmx-serisi-80plus-gold-750w-full-moduler-guc-kaynagi.html

The reason why I'm asking this first instead of just going ahead and making recommendations is, the selection is very limited and I don't know what the buying power of one Turkish Lira is. Based on how amazingly low current U.S. prices are of the Corsair RMx Series, I am hoping this is amazingly low too. It seems to be low because for only a little bit less, you could buy low-quality PSUs that are really geared more toward tight budgets:

http://www.vatanbilgisayar.com/cooler-master-vanguard-750w-80plus-gold-full-moduler-guc-kaynagi.html

http://www.vatanbilgisayar.com/enthusiast-serisi-txm750-750w-80plus-gold-moduler-guc-kaynagi.html

The RM750x is extremely high-end, and these 2 PSUs don't seem to be much cheaper. So to me, it makes more sense to just spend a few Turkish Lira more to get it.
That Corsair you recommend is 190$. Yes the price isn't bad.

I never OC and never do crossfire/SLI .Currently i use like 400 watts with my setup. I just could get a high end graphics card in future and get a new system with a high end CPU like the Threadripper.

Even with the Threadripper and a card like 1080ti , i think 750 Watts would be enough for me, am i right?

Thanks a lot for your time TwoCables
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by adre View Post

That Corsair you recommend is 190$. Yes the price isn't bad.

I never OC and never do crossfire/SLI .Currently i use like 400 watts with my setup. I just could get a high end graphics card in future and get a new system with a high end CPU like the Threadripper.

Even with the Threadripper and a card like 1080ti , i think 750 Watts would be enough for me, am i right?

Thanks a lot for your time TwoCables
I'm not wondering or worried about what it equates to in USD. I only care about how much it is in your currency.

Anyway, yes a high-end 750W PSU would be enough for that. It would be major overkill, but at that price, I don't see why you'd want to get a significantly inferior (yet still solid) PSU for only a tiny bit less. If it were like 200 Turkish Lira less, then maybe it would make sense, but for only what, 50 less? The price is too good to pass up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

I'm not wondering or worried about what it equates to in USD. I only care about how much it is in your currency.

Anyway, yes a high-end 750W PSU would be enough for that. It would be major overkill, but at that price, I don't see why you'd want to get a significantly inferior (yet still solid) PSU for only a tiny bit less. If it were like 200 Turkish Lira less, then maybe it would make sense, but for only what, 50 less? The price is too good to pass up.
Yes i got your point. I definitely wouldn't buy one of the other two if i am going to spend that money.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by adre View Post

Yes i got your point. I definitely wouldn't buy one of the other two if i am going to spend that money.
I wouldn't be recommending the RM750x at that store though if it were priced more appropriately for how good it is (like maybe 800 Turkish Lira? I don't know)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

I wouldn't be recommending the RM750x at that store though if it were priced more appropriately for how good it is (like maybe 800 Turkish Lira? I don't know)
Sorry I couldn't get you. You mean RM750x deserves to be priced a lot higher than the others?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by adre View Post

Sorry I couldn't get you. You mean RM750x deserves to be priced a lot higher than the others?
Yeah. It's a very high-end PSU. The others I listed are just mostly solid. Not great, but not that bad. The difference in quality between them is huge, but the difference in price doesn't reflect that at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Yeah. It's a very high-end PSU. The others I listed are just mostly solid. Not great, but not that bad. The difference in quality between them is huge, but the difference in price doesn't reflect that at all.
Ok then
thumb.gif
 
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