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Discussion Starter #1
I set my proc to 3.6G and ran Prime. In 20 mins it hit 70C and alarms went off. I shut it off scared and set it back to 3.0 and it ran over 2 hours and stayed at 63C. Do I have no room for overclocking with the stock cooler?
 

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I was getting really high temps with the stock cooler on the E8400. I got a third party one (out of my GF's old P4D PC, it's some blue Gigabyte one, hah) and my temps dropped by half.

I'd REALLY recommend getting a cooler.
 

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Just get a Dark Knight, it ought to handle your 8400 just fine.
 

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Back when i was using stock i could hit 3.6 easily with a 1.24 vcore

i never went above 61° load

Now im at 4.0 Ghz with 48 Load
 

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buy an aftermarket cooler then your be on 4.0ghz providing you get a decent one. AC freezer 7 pro for budget. TRUE if you got a fair bit to spend
 

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I would just go pick up a cheap aftermarket cooler like the xigmatek s1283, but if you really don't have the cash then just keep your clock at stock for now
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I set the voltage manually to 1.3 and it showed up drooped to like 1.26. I'm definately getting a cooler but want to play in the meantime so I know what my new cooler is capable of. (I do everything a piece at a time so I have data before and after.)
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by GSingh
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Just get a Dark Knight, it ought to handle your 8400 just fine.

+1 for the DArk Knight

i got it an i run my E5200 @ 3.33ghz w/ 28*C idle and typically dont go over 37*C while gaming. since they are both 45nm chips, the temps on ur E8400 will be similar, but a bit higher possibly depending on the level of ur OC.

its a great HSF w/ an automatically controlled fan speed. its silent compared to my crap case fan and my video card (specially when i turn up the GPU fan)
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by Johnny from Chicago
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I set the voltage manually to 1.3 and it showed up drooped to like 1.26. I'm definately getting a cooler but want to play in the meantime so I know what my new cooler is capable of. (I do everything a piece at a time so I have data before and after.)

See if you can set it lower. It always drops in Windows like that. If you'll notice it usually drops from idle to load also. Hopefully not much though.
 

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It is very easy to overclock. I had increased CPU voltage up to 1.30V (0,02Vdrop = 1.28V in Windows). RAM voltage was set up to 1.90V (stock = 1.80V). NB (northbridge), it was 1.20V (+0,10V). Temperatures are around 35-50C with active air-cooler (NH-U12P). I also overclocked RAM very high and all possible settings was set on that may increase the performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The temps were with Prime running on the " high heat some ram tested setting". Is that the test all of you run to determine safety and stability or do you run the other tests that make less heat?
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Hansebanger View Post
Are you sure you seeted the cooler correct? Im running a E7300 at 4GHz with Artic freezer 7 pro at 59C full load in ORTHOS at 1.488vcore ...
OT: That voltage will kill your E7300. Try to keep it below 1.4
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny from Chicago View Post
The temps were with Prime running on the " high heat some ram tested setting". Is that the test all of you run to determine safety and stability or do you run the other tests that make less heat?
Small fft's is what I run to get the CPU stable. Blend is what I run to stabilize the RAM/NB. Blend test will, typically,produce temps similar to what you will really see in everyday gaming/surfing. The temps you see using small fft's will be higher than what your actual temps will end up being.
 

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All I can tell you is that at first I didn't bother with OCing mine but then finally felt I needed to do something (I was/am a bit intimidated by all the settings in the BIOS)...I didn't make any voltage changes and am running 3.6 24/7 (folding) averaging 50C with a homemade rad/heat exchanger made of 1/2" copper pipe bent into a coil that is about 10-11" tall encased in a plexi tube with a 120mm fan at each end. I added a tube in the center so the airflow had to go where the coil was instead of avoiding it.

 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by Bindusar
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All I can tell you is that at first I didn't bother with OCing mine but then finally felt I needed to do something (I was/am a bit intimidated by all the settings in the BIOS)...I didn't make any voltage changes and am running 3.6 24/7 (folding) averaging 50C with a homemade rad/heat exchanger made of 1/2" copper pipe bent into a coil that is about 10-11" tall encased in a plexi tube with a 120mm fan at each end. I added a tube in the center so the airflow had to go where the coil was instead of avoiding it.



How did you make the base for it to transfer heat to the copper coil? I'm curious because that has got to be the most cool and original idea I've seen for a CPU cooler. Very nice
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by tbates1244
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How did you make the base for it to transfer heat to the copper coil? I'm curious because that has got to be the most cool and original idea I've seen for a CPU cooler. Very nice

Just the rad/heat exchanger is custom. I'm using a D-Tek Fuzion block with 1/2" lines. The tubing just slipped over the copper pipe and then hose clamps to seal it. You can see the Fuzion in the pic.
 
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