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RIP OCN 2018
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Has anyone used these? Are they any good?
 

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RIP OCN 2018
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by czin125 View Post

It's from a medical supply company and it's used in data centers/servers so it should be very reliable.

- Female QDC adapter (NS4D17006)
- Male QDC adapter (NS4D22006)
https://www.cpcworldwide.com/Applications/LiquidCoolingofElectronics
Yea, figured that out in the meanwhile. Seems like they're pretty good. But in the end I decided to go with Koolance Q3s because of the fitting choices: they have a pass-through, a treaded and compression-fitting equipped versions. While a bit more expensive in the EU, it probably ends up about the same with the pass through fittings I save, while looking better
smile.gif


Will be posting the result of my "easy-maintenance SMA8 radiator compartment" experiment later
thumb.gif
 

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roaming in his fishtank
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I have used koolance qdc Q3 for my external mora 3 and i can warn you that they frequently blocked themselves in open position when you disconnect them.
 

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roaming in his fishtank
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I don't use them anymore since i change the size of my tubing going to 13mm/16mm from 10mm/13mm. It's really hard to find them in this size and nearly no vendors has them in their listing and those that have them didn't generally have them in stock (and they 're not willing to order them only for you......), and if i want to order them from koolance it takes me near 80€ in shipping alone, same price as the 4 qdc....
 

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I think in that section everyone turn to Koolance for QDC.
At least I always saw in my reqion that parts specific import from USA.
QDC are great stuff, special who very often replace hardware and test different stuff and for people who kept parts out of case.
Anyway liquid cooled PC full of QDC is nicer than hard tubing.
 

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I have used koolance qdc Q3 for my external mora 3 and i can warn you that they frequently blocked themselves in open position when you disconnect them.
Hi there

Have used like you are Koolance QD3 on my MO-ra3 360mm and as in yours case they stuck open on several occasions and on several occasions I couldn't plug them back etc

Which ones did you are used, black or nickel/silver ones?

I have used black ones,these QD3 has been I think 6-9 months old

Switched to Barrow QDC 2 months ago and no issues which can I report

Pair of Barrow QDC(male and female) cost me £13 and pair of Koolance I think I have paid £30


Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura
 

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roaming in his fishtank
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They were black and nice but were a little disappointing for the price, and them blocking in open position was only the second problem, the first is i used tygoon soft tubing at the moment and can't secure it properly in the fitting, after maybe 2 hours after assembling it the first time, the tubing just pop itself of the fitting and all the coolant spilled itself.... had to add a ply or two of electrical tape on the tubing to secure it in the fitting.
I use a ddc 3.25 pump and it induce a really good pressure but it is not normal to not be able to secure tubing if all are of the right size.
 

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I have used a lot of QDs over the years and continue to use them today. The issue with them getting stuck open on disconnect became quite common; however, once I found the cause it was easy to fix as the issue was with me.

The problem was usually that I would disconnect one set of QDs and then when I went to disconnect the second set is when they would break. The cause of this problem is due to a pressure vacuum in the loop. You can even have your QDs fail the first disconnect from this issue.

The solution is that you need to equalize the pressure of the loop before disconnecting any QDs. Once I started equalizing the pressure I have never had a QD fail. (Basically you need to have your fill port OPEN when disconnecting the QDs to avoid the issue)

I use the koolance QDs that have the same stile of connection your see on gas pressure lines and I find that because you do not twist it you get a very good connection. I always get the threaded ones so I can use my own fittings. You can see some examples of the QDs in my Megumin build, linked in my sig.
 

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I have used koolance qdc Q3 for my external mora 3 and i can warn you that they frequently blocked themselves in open position when you disconnect them.
I'm bumping this old post but it's a google result. I can 100% confirm QD3's will stay stuck open. My guess is the plating they use isn't very robust and gets physically damaged in a few cycles.
 

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Ive been using the Alphacool ones and they brilliant, no issues whatsoever. Would avoid Barrow personally after my digital flow meter shorted and caught fire!
 

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I can 100% confirm QD3's will stay stuck open.
Same here. I gave up on the Koolance QDs over 4 years ago and went with the hyper-expensive Swiftech Lok-Seal units. They are, as I mentioned: stupid expensive. I have 12 or so of the sets in my system and have only had one of them fail on me. They're basically bullet proof.
 

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The cause of this problem is due to a pressure vacuum in the loop

This is the only reason I've had QDC's fail and even then it was an easy fix. Never had one that wasn't useable again.
 

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I have used a lot of QDs over the years and continue to use them today. The issue with them getting stuck open on disconnect became quite common; however, once I found the cause it was easy to fix as the issue was with me.

The problem was usually that I would disconnect one set of QDs and then when I went to disconnect the second set is when they would break. The cause of this problem is due to a pressure vacuum in the loop. You can even have your QDs fail the first disconnect from this issue.

The solution is that you need to equalize the pressure of the loop before disconnecting any QDs. Once I started equalizing the pressure I have never had a QD fail. (Basically you need to have your fill port OPEN when disconnecting the QDs to avoid the issue)

I use the koolance QDs that have the same stile of connection your see on gas pressure lines and I find that because you do not twist it you get a very good connection. I always get the threaded ones so I can use my own fittings. You can see some examples of the QDs in my Megumin build, linked in my sig.
I think this might be the solution since these QD's might fail due to pressure vacuum as zeroibis stated definitely going to use his method once i upgrade my system. Seems like a golden tip to me!

Has anyone tried this method yet on their Koolance QD's? I would like to know your experience and many like me.

As for the Koolance BLACK QD's to which i own 2 pairs and never used them ONCE!! They are BAD and pretty much garbage after a month or so the inside of my black QD's where showing white oxidation? It was a lot it left basically white snow inside and enough people had the same issue with these black QD's i noticed also they couldn't click with each other smoothly. Plus people said the black plating wasn't good on the black QD's. Then i heard they updated their black QD's supposedly had no issues...Good thing i never used them, just a damn waste of good money....

@Shawnb99 thanks for confirming the pressure method works didn't saw your message.
 

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This is the only reason I've had QDC's fail and even then it was an easy fix. Never had one that wasn't useable again.
If a pressure vacuum is enough to cause your QDs to lock open, I'd suggest that your QDs are way, WAY too weak. There should be a spring inside each of the QD ends that can nearly overcome your own arm strength (not quite, obviously. ;-) ) No amount of pressure changes within a typical water cooling loop should have any adverse affect on a QD's operation.

Seems a but suss, to me.
 

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I think this might be the solution since these QD's might fail due to pressure vacuum as zeroibis stated definitely going to use his method once i upgrade my system. Seems like a golden tip to me!

Has anyone tried this method yet on their Koolance QD's? I would like to know your experience and many like me.

As for the Koolance BLACK QD's to which i own 2 pairs and never used them ONCE!! They are BAD and pretty much garbage after a month or so the inside of my black QD's where showing white oxidation? It was a lot it left basically white snow inside and enough people had the same issue with these black QD's i noticed also they couldn't click with each other smoothly. Plus people said the black plating wasn't good on the black QD's. Then i heard they updated their black QD's supposedly had no issues...Good thing i never used them, just a damn waste of good money....

@Shawnb99 thanks for confirming the pressure method works didn't saw your message.
All the QDs in my current loop are the black ones. I have used every generation of Koolance QDs starting from their first release back in the day. Today I only use the ones that you pull back, I would not recommend using the twist lock style.
 

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If a pressure vacuum is enough to cause your QDs to lock open, I'd suggest that your QDs are way, WAY too weak. There should be a spring inside each of the QD ends that can nearly overcome your own arm strength (not quite, obviously. ;-) ) No amount of pressure changes within a typical water cooling loop should have any adverse affect on a QD's operation.

Seems a but suss, to me.
I have yet to try it with a modern QD. The only ones I have blown where the older twist style QDs.

However, the vaccume pressure is quite insane it literally blew out the springs and they could not close, the seals also blew out. I think I still might have them in a box or drawer so I could get some pics of how the damage looks when it happens. Also yea it is quite a bit of force you got to use to separate them so in hindsight your like yea I should have stopped when it was not easy to separate.

It might not be the most accurate to say that is its the vacuum pressure within the loop that causes the problem. It is the pressure created when you try to separate the QDs while the system is in a pressurized state (ie at a different pressure form the outside). All I can say is that you can try it, there is a very strong suction force between the QDs when the system is pressurized or depressurized depending on how you want to think about it. If you try to break the suction by force you will break your QDs, at least in my experience and I broke about 3-4 sets back in the day before I figured out what I was doing wrong. When the pressure is first equalized with the outside disconnection of the QDs becomes a simple matter and there is no suction force between them.
 
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