Yea, figured that out in the meanwhile. Seems like they're pretty good. But in the end I decided to go with Koolance Q3s because of the fitting choices: they have a pass-through, a treaded and compression-fitting equipped versions. While a bit more expensive in the EU, it probably ends up about the same with the pass through fittings I save, while looking betterOriginally Posted by czin125
It's from a medical supply company and it's used in data centers/servers so it should be very reliable.
- Female QDC adapter (NS4D17006)
- Male QDC adapter (NS4D22006)
https://www.cpcworldwide.com/Applications/LiquidCoolingofElectronics
Source: ThermalBench: KOOLANCE QD3 AND QD4 QUICK DISCONNECT FITTINGSI've read that they put a big dump on the waterflow ltr/hr in the loop, anyone can confirm?
Hi thereI have used koolance qdc Q3 for my external mora 3 and i can warn you that they frequently blocked themselves in open position when you disconnect them.
I'm bumping this old post but it's a google result. I can 100% confirm QD3's will stay stuck open. My guess is the plating they use isn't very robust and gets physically damaged in a few cycles.I have used koolance qdc Q3 for my external mora 3 and i can warn you that they frequently blocked themselves in open position when you disconnect them.
Same here. I gave up on the Koolance QDs over 4 years ago and went with the hyper-expensive Swiftech Lok-Seal units. They are, as I mentioned: stupid expensive. I have 12 or so of the sets in my system and have only had one of them fail on me. They're basically bullet proof.I can 100% confirm QD3's will stay stuck open.
The cause of this problem is due to a pressure vacuum in the loop
I think this might be the solution since these QD's might fail due to pressure vacuum as zeroibis stated definitely going to use his method once i upgrade my system. Seems like a golden tip to me!I have used a lot of QDs over the years and continue to use them today. The issue with them getting stuck open on disconnect became quite common; however, once I found the cause it was easy to fix as the issue was with me.
The problem was usually that I would disconnect one set of QDs and then when I went to disconnect the second set is when they would break. The cause of this problem is due to a pressure vacuum in the loop. You can even have your QDs fail the first disconnect from this issue.
The solution is that you need to equalize the pressure of the loop before disconnecting any QDs. Once I started equalizing the pressure I have never had a QD fail. (Basically you need to have your fill port OPEN when disconnecting the QDs to avoid the issue)
I use the koolance QDs that have the same stile of connection your see on gas pressure lines and I find that because you do not twist it you get a very good connection. I always get the threaded ones so I can use my own fittings. You can see some examples of the QDs in my Megumin build, linked in my sig.
If a pressure vacuum is enough to cause your QDs to lock open, I'd suggest that your QDs are way, WAY too weak. There should be a spring inside each of the QD ends that can nearly overcome your own arm strength (not quite, obviously. ;-) ) No amount of pressure changes within a typical water cooling loop should have any adverse affect on a QD's operation.This is the only reason I've had QDC's fail and even then it was an easy fix. Never had one that wasn't useable again.
All the QDs in my current loop are the black ones. I have used every generation of Koolance QDs starting from their first release back in the day. Today I only use the ones that you pull back, I would not recommend using the twist lock style.I think this might be the solution since these QD's might fail due to pressure vacuum as zeroibis stated definitely going to use his method once i upgrade my system. Seems like a golden tip to me!
Has anyone tried this method yet on their Koolance QD's? I would like to know your experience and many like me.
As for the Koolance BLACK QD's to which i own 2 pairs and never used them ONCE!! They are BAD and pretty much garbage after a month or so the inside of my black QD's where showing white oxidation? It was a lot it left basically white snow inside and enough people had the same issue with these black QD's i noticed also they couldn't click with each other smoothly. Plus people said the black plating wasn't good on the black QD's. Then i heard they updated their black QD's supposedly had no issues...Good thing i never used them, just a damn waste of good money....
@Shawnb99 thanks for confirming the pressure method works didn't saw your message.
I have yet to try it with a modern QD. The only ones I have blown where the older twist style QDs.If a pressure vacuum is enough to cause your QDs to lock open, I'd suggest that your QDs are way, WAY too weak. There should be a spring inside each of the QD ends that can nearly overcome your own arm strength (not quite, obviously. ;-) ) No amount of pressure changes within a typical water cooling loop should have any adverse affect on a QD's operation.
Seems a but suss, to me.