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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok at last i decided to WC . I mainly doing it for the fun rather than overclock my setup..
tongue.gif


So Basically my question is if i switch on/off the system often like every 15 hours, Will bubbles start forming in the WC setup? If so how to deal with it?

Gentle TyphoonAP15 -1850 rpm or Yate Loon D12SL-12/12C - 1300rpm ??
There is difference of 10CFM between the two.. but as everyone know the YL is cheaper by half the rate..

I currently have:
XSPC Rasa ; Swiftech 320-Drive B(ver.1)
Tubbing - 1/2" ID , 3/4" OD; Nuke-PHN ; Distilled H20

The rest are yet to be ordered/delivered.
MCP-350 ; 2 x BP 1/2" ID compression for Rasa ;
3 x
And few other fitting s like T's and fill-port.
 

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As far as bubbles go If you bleed your system during setup you shouldnt have to worry about getting bubbles in your loop. The choice between fans I would probably say typhoons even though I own yate loons, personally its not the fact that the loons are poor quality its just that the typhoons are quieter even at high rpms.
 

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Don't the Swiftech drive rads have a pump built in? So why are you getting another pump as well?

Also turning the system off every 15 hours and then back on shouldn't cause bubbles in the loop. That is unless you have some very small leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnPrimeXXL;12007910
You could also consider Gentle Typhoon AP14 which are 1450RPM 21DB 45.9CFM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Juggalo23451;12007921
Typhoons are.better quality. I have eight of them
You can get a swiftech rad box for external mounting
Wc guide
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/913181-water-cooling-guide-noobs.html#post11984918
Quote:
Originally Posted by brl3git;12007947
As far as bubbles go If you bleed your system during setup you shouldnt have to worry about getting bubbles in your loop. The choice between fans I would probably say typhoons even though I own yate loons, personally its not the fact that the loons are poor quality its just that the typhoons are quieter even at high rpms.
Its just that i read it somewhere ,not sure where , that switching on the system often will create bubbles. Now i am not sure if it was specific to a particular rig or not.

For now the GT is the front runner. If i don't get the AP-15's,which is hard to get, i will obviously look for the AP-14's

But how about these :http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2915
They have seem to be more silent than the GT's and move more CFM .
Never seen or heard of these with Rads but the specs looks nice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wheth4400;12007954
Don't the Swiftech drive rads have a pump built in? So why are you getting another pump as well?

Also turning the system off every 15 hours and then back on shouldn't cause bubbles in the loop. That is unless you have some very small leak.
It was hard to find the rad with pump version so i got the one without the pump and gives a reason to mess around(hopefully i wont screw up.
biggrin.gif
)
 

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As long as your res is above your pump as it should be, and you don't have any leaks, you shouldn't get any bubbles in your loop. If somehow you do, they will accumulate in the res and your loop will be bubble free once again. I turn mine on and off every day with no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys for the quick response.. it just put all my doubts at rest.. now to find some typhoons..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I know there is nothing beating the Gt's but i needed know if anyone uses these
Gelid Wings 12PL : http://www.gelidsolutions.com/produc...=2&id=57&tab=2
Any idea how these fair when used with radiators.
This fan does have a Detachable Impeller, which make things a lot-lot easier and got me thinking. But i have never heard of this brand which is why i am not sure of it.

Which would be smarter choice? Gt with fan filter or the Gelid wings 120pl?

Also how often do guys change the H2O in the WC?
Do you clean the external of the rad ? (apart from using the vac on the fan filters)
 

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I run a filter on the front of my rad, other than that it seems to need little or no cleaning other than the odd wipe with a damp cloth.
The Gelid Wings are pretty good fans if I remember right.
I'd still go with gentle typhoon 1850s, I have 2 on my rad and they push an insane amount of air very quietly.

Water change: every 3 to 6 months, depending on whim, and how much sunlight is getting to the water. Clear tubing in a sunny spot would want more regular draining than other options, this also depends on how pure your water is and your biocide solution.
Air bubbles? I have a bit of air in the top of my XSPC bay res, it is designed to trap it, and it does that very nicely thanks. Smaller reservoirs may not trap bubbles quite so well, it depends on the design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks allikat..

Will the Enzotech BCFS-ID1/2-OD 1/2in. ID x 3/4in. OD fit on the Rasa.. I am not very sure about the compatibility. Was warned by a friend that some blocks do have compatibilty problems.. i searched around but can't find any issues .. just wanted to confirm if there is any at all..
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by vinaypro
View Post

Thanks allikat..

Will the Enzotech BCFS-ID1/2-OD 1/2in. ID x 3/4in. OD fit on the Rasa.. I am not very sure about the compatibility. Was warned by a friend that some blocks do have compatibilty problems.. i searched around but can't find any issues .. just wanted to confirm if there is any at all..

I assume you mean 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD? If so then yes the tubing will fit on the Rasa. The only block I've heard of having problems is the first version of the EK Supreme HF. When using Compression fittings, the holes weren't spaced enough to allow you to fit both of them on.
 
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