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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i'm finalizing my build and i need advice on a few things.

I've added a picture below on my intended loop design. Red are radiators and reservoirs, green is tubing direction. 2 reservoir locations because i'm not sure which spot to choose. Please excuse my horrible paint skills
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I have the bottom radiator inlet and outlet on the far right side as opposed to the left as i think the small window in the enthoo primo would accentuate that area nicely with some blue lighting (and white tubing). As well i have the reservoir on the right as opposed to the left side of the case as it seems to display the tubing better to me. Though it would be easier to mount to the left (back) side of the case with the mounting holes already there (i'd like some ideas/opinions on that idea). Oh and the pump is in the back behind the case where you can see the green tubing lines coming from the reservoir start and come out of.

Proposed Items List:
Fittings=Or These Fittings
Tubing x2 Sets=Or This Tubing x2 Sets
GPU Terminal
GPU Blocks x2
CPU Block
PT Nuke PHN
Reservoir
Drain Valve Parts 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6
Temp sensor like this could be nice. But i'm not sure if i can plug those into the mobo or if it has to be a fan controller with temp probe or whatever?

Items I Already Bought:
480mm Radiators x2
D5 Pump
High Pressure Fans x16
Fan Controller
Fan Hub x2
Rest In Sig

Using distilled water.

Tubing, Primochill or Monsoon? I've heard bad things about primochill tubing for consistency but that might be referring to their soft tubing. How is their hard PETG vs monsoons PETG? Primochill Monsoon. The monsoon is a fair bit pricier so perhaps that indicates better quality.

For flushing my hardwarelabs gtx 480 radiators I assume im fine not getting the mayhems blitz pro kit cause these are supposed to be fairly clean rads unlike alphacools right? Then if so how hot should the distilled water i use be? Should i boil it or can i just get it fairly hot in the microwave?

How important is it to not to combine silver in a loop with nickel? The monsoon fittings i chose are silver plated but id prefer not to change that cause then id have to use primochill fittings which means smaller tubing and increased cost.

And finally some advice and opinions on general design and loop design would be nice.

Thanks a bunch!

PS: I also have 2 front 140mm fans pulling air in, bottom rad pulling air in, top rad exhausting air and rear 140mm fan exhausting air. Should i consider a different flow design where i have both rads intaking air?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Anyone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah the terminal i chose is actually listed as an add on for that block but in the listing it said about that incompatibility thing. So assuming that terminal works is there anything else i need like fittings to attach the terminal? (besides the fittings for inlet and outlet obviously)

Keep the suggestions coming. I want to make my first high end water build a flawless excellent design
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I'd especially like some input on how to go about adding an drain valve. Im thinking id put it inline at the bottom radiator but problem is the radiator would still end up being below the valve and since my design has the water running through the bottom rad before running through the rest of the components thats not a very efficient way to empty (even if i run a hose below the rad the water still has to run through the rad first). Hmm...
 

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First off i would recommend that you are sticking with either nickel or cooper for entire loop. If you are going sith nickel water block then please dont use PT Nuke or silver. With cooper block they willoxidate over time and require cleaning if you want to show them off.
As for loop order, due to the highflow in the systemthe order doenst matter as long as you reservoir fit dirrectky to the pump. You would just neèd to run it as clean as possible.
As for air flow i would recommend commend to run both radiators fans as exausting air from the case.cause you dont want the heat that you want to dissipate to come back to thecase heating up cpu and gpu. I also noticed you didnt pick which fans you are going with. Temp sensor is a plus but i would recommend getting a flow sensor and a fan controller. Everyone can tell you that good radiator fans run really loud ( beside gentle typhoon which is no longer available)
As for gpu link yopu can make your own link using the fiitings and tubing you have purchased. You would need at least 4 fittings if you are going with serial loop or 6 fittings if you are going with parallel loop. I prefer parallel to keep both cards at the same temperature and for vanity purpose.
As for drain valve, I think you are stuck with either directly after pump or tline between pump and bottom radiator. May require some tilting to get water off the bottom radiator.
If this is your first time with watercooling i would recommend buying extra fittings and tubing cuase bending acrylic tube would take a few tries. Take your time to leak test and sanding of the tubing so they dont damage the fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If i had the option there would be no silver nor nickel in the build, but unfortunately that is the one and only gigabyte g1 gtx 970 water block. And the fittings i have are the only option for 5/8" OD hard tubing.

So with that in mind these metals will have to be together. So if i shouldnt use PT Nuke (PHN variant), then should I instead use Feser Base Corrosion Blocker (which already has some biocide properties in it)? I was concerned about using that stuff because ive heard the active ingredient (ethylene glycol) gunks up badly.

And i did state i have the fans, i have some 2200 RPM 3.86mmH2O pressure fans good for the radiators that ill be using in push pull. I also have a fan controller. I'll just update my list with the items i already have.

And i dont want to make my own links for the GPUs, if i can i want to use the stuff i linked for aesthetic purposes.

As for making mistakes with the PETG tubing on my first build im gonna buy plenty extra. Ordering 2 sets so 16 feet.

Thanks
 

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You should consider going nickel with the cpu block too. Not a good idea of mix and match stuff. If you dont want to make your own i think bistpower have the sli link it would make your life easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Why should i go nickel on the CPU block? I've heard plenty of concerns on silver and nickel combined but nothing about copper. At most there might be a little oxidation in the copper which is pretty much meaningless. My main concern is about corrosion, or worse, flaking of the nickel coating, in the GPU blocks.

And also the CPU block is something ill likely have for years. The GPU blocks are something ill upgrade every year, or 2 at most, as gpu upgrades are frequent requiring new blocks but the cpu block tends to last through builds. At which point the CPU block gets cleaned out after each rebuild and is like new again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Anyone?

If the silver really is a problem (and hours of reading reviews i get very mixed responses, but im thinking i just shouldnt to be safe) then i was thinking of switching my tubing to 3/8 x 1/2 so i can use the primochill fittings that are nickel coated instead of silver coated.

If i do that do i still need to worry about using feser base corrosion blocker or can i just stick with some PT Nuke?

PS: When you said "stick with nickel or copper" its impossible to stick with just nickel, no such thing as a nickel radiator, its copper. Maybe for looks of a visible copper block, but then ill just clean it if i needed too no big. Honestly if i had the choice my gpu blocks would be copper too, but no can do with these gpus.
 

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Use EK or bitspower 16mm fittings if you want large tube look and don't fancy the Monsoon Silver ( I'm personally not a fan of anything Monsoon )
Nickel or copper is inconsequential except for preference. All loops should use some form of anti corrosive.

Where it says the FC bridges aren't compatible they are refering to the older designs. The new blocks use the terminal system that works the same way overall.

I'm confused why you think adding things like temp sensors is any different with hard tubing than soft. You just do it the same ways with the same fittings. Its really only quick disconnects that would be very different or impossible with hard tube.

Those fans are real overkill for that system. Large rads deserve slow, quiet fans and that fan controller may have difficulty running them slow enough to be really quiet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I do not have the option to use any bitspower 16mm fittings or any metric fittings for that matter because the only hard tubing available at those sizes is acrylic, and i'm firm on PETG.

"All loops should include some form of anti corrosion" basically means that if using distilled water i have to use feser base and not just PT nuke?

Good to know about the terminals, thanks.

And i say its different and harder to add temp sensors and drain valves because the options for fittings are extremely limited for 1/2 and 5/8 hard tubing. I have to get creative with multiple compression fittings combined with male-male G1/4 fittings to make 1 thing.

I'm not sure why you say large rads deserve slow fans. Its the FPI not overall size that determines fan requirements, and these black ice radiators are 20 FPI rads which is pretty dense, it does need some good airflow.

But why do you say that my fan controller wont be able to slow them down much? The fan controller is more than ample to handle that number of fans, heck it can handle them all on just 2 of the 6 channels. But im not familiar with what reasoning there is for why you couldnt slow my fans down much with that controller. Im not overly concerned with things being super quiet though, if i can take them down even from 2200 to 1500 thatll be fine.
 

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By large rads i mean 2 x 480's. Large surface area and high speed fans is a recipe for a lot of noise for hardly any gain. FPI is fine, but it doesn't mean those rads only work with high speed fans. If the water is already sufficiently cooled by 1000RPM fans then 2000RPM is going to make but a small difference.

Temp sensors are still just the inline type that fit between two g1/4 ports or they are the plug type that fit into devices or something like a female g1/4 T fitting. I'm not aware of any special fittings that make it easier with any other type of tubing.

The fans and the controller will depend more on the devices themselves and I'm not familiar with them but in general, a 2000RPM fan will only slow down to say just under 1000RPM so for the system to be anything like quiet it will have to be maintaining those fans at near minimum speed most of the time. 16 fans at 1500RPM on rads gets old really fast.
I would be aiming for 1500 as an absolute max speed and preferably 1200 or less.

That fan controller is highly likely to cause the fans to buzz or make excessive noise ... especially at low power. It simulates lower voltages by switching the 12V line on and off rapidly. That switching causes noise.

If you want to use that tube type then yeah I guess you are pretty limited. Just personally, I wouldn't let tube type determine the type of fittings used. The real life differences between acrylic and PET are just not worth it. Either will work just fine, but I would be more concerned with the PET's lower deforming temp and pressure in the case of a rare emergency.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah for the temp probe i saw i can just use one that can plug into the reservoir. But they are 2 pin. Does that require a fan controller with temp probe or can i plug that into the mobo some how?

And i think i found the drain valve parts ill need. Going to be a bit of a mess putting that in line near the bottom rad but it should work. Though if anyone could find a replacement for part 2 (besides that 5 port adapter) on frozencpu so i dont have to pay more shipping on PPCS thatd be nice
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And PS: I updated original post with drain valve parts and cleaned up the questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Anyone else?

If i could just get a couple more questions answered before i try to just wing it with my own determinations for most things then those would be:

Most importantly would Primochill hard tubing be ok compared to Monsoon? Its a fair bit cheaper (so i get more for testing as well as longer tubing that might come in handy in my large Primo case) but ive heard bad things about Primochills tubing consistency. I'm just hoping thats regarding their soft tubing?

Also without silver (if i go the more expensive fittings route and ditch the silver plated monsoon fittings for nickel plated brass primochill) so just copper/nickel/brass in the loop, can i just get PT Nuke PHN or should i use feser base corrosion blocker? Using distilled water of course.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Noone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So noone any ideas about primochill vs monsoon hard PETG tube quality? Guess i'll just have to flip a coin.
 
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