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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone...

I'm starting a thread here for input/tips on the new water cooling system I spec'd out.

It's going to be a dual loop system - with 2 black ice SR1 360 radiators, 2 Danger Den D-RAD reservoirs, and 2 Danger Den CPX Pro water pumps, as well as all the tubing, fittings, clamps, etc.

I want silent fans, so I am looking at the Frozen CPU site for them.. Any suggestions there are appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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Is there any particular reason that you are going with a dual loop? There is no real performance benefit and it does cost quite a bit more. If you are doing it for aesthetics then it's all good.

For fans, get 1850rpm gentle typhoons, attach em to a fan controller and enjoy the best fans that money can buy
smile.gif
They have the best noise/performance ratio and I can tell you that at low RPMs they are totally silent. When you want to game or do something more intense, just turn em up and you still won't be able to hear a thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's half for aesthetics, and half because I want to make 100% sure the cooling is effective... given that I've already bought all of the components, I guess now it's a moot point, but I really thought a dual loop would be wicked.
 

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The only thing a dual loop does in terms of performance is separate the components temperatures, but I have never actually seen someone do it for that reason (either they thought it would give them better performance overall or it was for looks). However, you won't get better temps unless you distribute the rads in an uneven way, sacrificing one component for the other, which IMO is pointless.

Since you already bought the stuff and you're going for looks anyway, seems like you're all set. As I said, gentle typhoons would probably serve you best.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24749

On the more expensive side, but they are the top performers.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kinru View Post

The only thing a dual loop does in terms of performance is separate the components temperatures, but I have never actually seen someone do it for that reason (either they thought it would give them better performance overall or it was for looks). However, you won't get better temps unless you distribute the rads in an uneven way, sacrificing one component for the other, which IMO is pointless.

Since you already bought the stuff and you're going for looks anyway, seems like you're all set. As I said, gentle typhoons would probably serve you best.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24749

On the more expensive side, but they are the top performers.
Not technically true.

If you have your CPU running hot, how well do you think that water would cool your GPU right after? The OP has a really high ambient temp in their room. IMO this is a practical use for a waterchiller.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SniperTeamTango View Post

Not technically true.
If you have your CPU running hot, how well do you think that water would cool your GPU right after? The OP has a really high ambient temp in their room. IMO this is a practical use for a waterchiller.
Single loop vs dual loop , doesnt make a difference with the proper fans, pumo, and radiators
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by m98custom1212 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by SniperTeamTango View Post

Not technically true.
If you have your CPU running hot, how well do you think that water would cool your GPU right after? The OP has a really high ambient temp in their room. IMO this is a practical use for a waterchiller.
Single loop vs dual loop , doesnt make a difference with the proper fans, pumo, and radiators
Physically that makes no sense, so explain how the water (when heated) would cool just as effectively as colder water.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SniperTeamTango View Post

Physically that makes no sense, so explain how the water (when heated) would cool just as effectively as colder water.
Take 264w of heat to raise water 1c at 1gpm. You have any processors you know of that dish out 264w of heat?

If so, do you mind water entering your GPU 1c hotter?

Dual loop is:
1.) more hassle
2.) more maintenence
3.) more expensive
4.) not much better than a single loop

Now with that said. If you;'re using two 360's for a gpu and a cpu, keeping them in the same loop or apart will have no real benifit or gain. if you have a 360 and a 240, then havimng the cpu on the 240 and gpu on the 360 will net a small gain in temps. But again, not enough to justify the trouble.

There's also the fact that if the case is moderately small (ATX) then the clutter of tube will reduce airflow.

Not doing this to be mean, just pointing out some things...
biggrin.gif
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SniperTeamTango View Post

Physically that makes no sense, so explain how the water (when heated) would cool just as effectively as colder water.
Rognin beat me to it.

264w of heat to raise water 1c at 1gpm.. meaning you will rise your gpu (s) at the 1c at the most.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by m98custom1212 View Post

Rognin beat me to it.
264w of heat to raise water 1c at 1gpm.. meaning you will rise your gpu (s) at the 1c at the most.
What processor (9*0x and 3960K?) dishes out 264w of heat?

And from the looks of it she is going to be putting in a 77w tdp processor. That's like .33c increase in water temps...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rognin View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by SniperTeamTango View Post

Physically that makes no sense, so explain how the water (when heated) would cool just as effectively as colder water.
Take 264w of heat to raise water 1c at 1gpm. You have any processors you know of that dish out 264w of heat?

If so, do you mind water entering your GPU 1c hotter?

Dual loop is:
1.) more hassle
2.) more maintenence
3.) more expensive
4.) not much better than a single loop

Now with that said. If you;'re using two 360's for a gpu and a cpu, keeping them in the same loop or apart will have no real benifit or gain. if you have a 360 and a 240, then havimng the cpu on the 240 and gpu on the 360 will net a small gain in temps. But again, not enough to justify the trouble.

There's also the fact that if the case is moderately small (ATX) then the clutter of tube will reduce airflow.

Not doing this to be mean, just pointing out some things...
biggrin.gif
See this was what I needed, (I extreme air cool btw) I thought it was a lot lower like 115watts for 1 degree.

Explain then how my CPU can raise my water temps by more than that though? (H100 push toggleable pull)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rognin View Post

What processor (9*0x and 3960K?) dishes out 264w of heat?
And from the looks of it she is going to be putting in a 77w tdp processor. That's like .33c increase in water temps...
Yes i got that..

Sniper-many reasons.. flow, radiator size (thinkness and length), block design, correct fans etc
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by m98custom1212 View Post

Yes i got that..
Sniper-many reasons.. flow, radiator size (thinkness and length), block design, etc
Sorry, I re-read my post. I didn't mean it as a harsh comment, but more as a question; a rhetorical freindly question.
tongue.gif


Yeah, with the recent tests done by MLL on rads; a 360 can dissipate ~200w at 10c delta with 2k rpm fans. These are thick 60mm copper rads, the h100 is a 25mm aluminium rad. So I'm guessing to dissipate say an OC SB with about ~130w, you'll need about 15 to 20c deltas (the water temp compared to ambient). That and the flow rates might be lower with an H100 compared to how a DDC or D5 can push water through a loop...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rognin View Post

Sorry, I re-read my post. I didn't mean it as a harsh comment, but more as a question; a rhetorical freindly question.
tongue.gif

Yeah, with the recent tests done by MLL on rads; a 360 can dissipate ~200w at 10c delta @ around 2k rpm fans. These are thick 60mm copper rads, the h100 is a 25mm aluminium rad. So I'm guessing to dissipate say an OC SB with about ~130w, you'll need about 15 to 20c deltas (the water temp compared to ambient). That and the flow rates might be lower with an H100 compared to how a DDC or D5 can push water through a loop...
I thought you just was being a dick... fail on my part

I seen the ninja edit.

I had an h50 and it was "good cooler" but it doesn't compare to a real custom loop
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by m98custom1212 View Post

I thought you just was being a dick... fail on my part
Nah, I couldn't include a tone, and I definitely worded it wrong...
tongue.gif
 

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Seriously the 264W to raise the water by 1 degree needs to be BOLDED and STICKIED. Been posting that answer for over a year.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
On a separate note, what are your thoughts on the Noiseblocker fans? I may wind up getting the GentleTyphoon, but I just wanted options on what's good/better/best

Since my radiators are designed for low flow quiet fans, I was thinking of this one:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10211/fan-655/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentPro_PL-1_120mm_x_25mm_Ultra_Quiet_Fan_-_900_RPM_-_11_dBA.html?tl=c15s60b160

Or, if I feel like splurging, this one:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12548/fan-821/Noiseblocker_NB-Multiframe_M12-PS_120mmx25mm_Super_Ultra_Silent_PWM_Fan_-_600-1500_RPM_-_7-23_dBA.html

I'll need 6 of them of course...
 

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I love my 6 Multiframes. When you hold em, you can't hold yourself from smiling. They really feel good to have. They work pretty good also at low voltages (ei low RPM).

Martins liquid lab testing. Notice the Multiframes vs the AP-15's. The Multiframes have better airflow at teh same RPM, but emit more noise.
 
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