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First watercooling project

4691 Views 81 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  bob808
2
Hi
Ive decided to watercool my sig computer. This was my 3rd computer build but will be my first attempt at watercooling. Any advice will be greatly appreiciated. Heres my shopping list-

Order from sidewinders.com
Watercool HEATKILLER® CPU Rev3.0 1366 84.95
http://store.yahoo.com/sidewindercom...iller1366.html
HEATKILLER® Backplate 1366 7.95
http://store.yahoo.com/sidewindercom...1366plate.html
Arctic Cooling MX-3 Thermal Compound 11.95
http://store.yahoo.com/sidewindercom...comxthco1.html
HW Labs Black Ice GT Xtreme 280 - Black gtx280 99.95
http://store.yahoo.com/sidewindercom...blicegtx3.html
Swiftech MCRES Micro Revision 2 reservoir 22.95
http://store.yahoo.com/sidewindercom...mcmire2re.html
EK-FB EVGA X58 Classified - Acetal Nickel 139.95
http://store.yahoo.com/sidewindercom...vx58clacn.html
Subtotal 367.70
Shipping 16.00
Total 383.70

Order from jab-tech.com
Swiftech MCP655™ 12 VDC Pump $76.95
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCP...p-pr-2982.html
PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black Tubing - 7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD 10' $16.50
http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoFlex-Pr...D-pr-4423.html
PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils 5/8"- Gloss Red 60" $10.47
http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoChill-A...d-pr-4007.html
Bitspower True Silver G1/4 High Flow 1/2" Barb (12) $36.00
http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-Tr...1-pr-4397.html
Dangerden Fillport - Delrin Perfect Seal Barb: 1/2" $11.95
http://www.jab-tech.com/Dangerden-Fi...n-pr-3489.html
SKU3488 Dangerden Fill Syringe $1.99
SKU3611 Black Ice GTX 120 Radiator $49.95
http://www.jab-tech.com/Black-Ice-GT...r-pr-3611.html
Subtotal: $203.81
Shipping cost: $11.07
Total: $214.88

I have ordered above parts and all should be here by Dec 4th.
How do the components I have picked out look to you guys? I can change parts out if needed.
I will be putting the loop into a CM cosmos 1000 case with side window.
I am planning on mounting the 280 rad with 2x140mm fans on inside top of case and the 120 rad at the inside top rear of case.
I will just be cooling the cpu and mb and leaving the gtx 295 on its stock air cooling for now at least.

I'm sure to have some questions for all you WC vets so please check back often. I will also be posting some pictures as i progress with the build.
Thanks for comments and advice
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why not get a XSPC RX360 rad for the i7 it is only 94 bucks

other than that it look like a good set up
There is no reason to W/C the chipset either

res-pump-rad-cpu-res
northbridge runs hot on my rig even with the huge stock passive heatsink on the evga classified.

lookie here -


this convinced me to the mobo waterblock.
Quote:

Originally Posted by bob808 View Post
northbridge runs hot on my rig even with the huge stock passive heatsink on the evga classified.

lookie here -
YouTube- (HD) EVGA X58 Classified NB Cooling Tests & Benchmark
this convinced me to the mobo waterblock.
I have the classified(limited edition) all you need to do is take the n/b, s/b off and put OCZ freeze on. That is what I did to drop my temps. Also you can put a small fan right onto the n/b if you wanted to

thread
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...b-fan-mod.html
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Quote:

Originally Posted by Juggalo23451 View Post
why not get a XSPC RX360 rad for the i7 it is only 94 bucks

other than that it look like a good set up
There is no reason to W/C the chipset either

res-pump-rad-cpu-res
I was thinking about getting a 360 rad or even the HW Labs Black Ice GT Xtreme 420 http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/hwlablicegtx4.html, but I would have to do some mods to the case i am currently using to mount it up top. While i dont have a problem with modding the case, I fear that that the third fan area of the radiator towards the front of the case would not have enough airflow (especially exhaust) to make much of a diferance. Hence, I decided to go with a 280 up top and a 120 in rear which is more area than a 360 anyways. The case is factory designed to accept 2x140mm fans on top and has louvered exhaust vents that (while somewhat restricting) should work.
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Quote:

Originally Posted by Juggalo23451 View Post
I have the classified(limited edition) all you need to do is take the n/b, s/b off and put OCZ freeze on. That is what I did to drop my temps. Also you can put a small fan right onto the n/b if you wanted to

thread
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...b-fan-mod.html
no room for the small fan on the northbridge heat sinnk with my sound card there.
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2
Quote:

Originally Posted by bob808 View Post
no room for the small fan on the northbridge heat sinnk with my sound card there.
I have a sound card to. Just put OCZ Freeze on your n/b like I said b4 and you should be fine
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With the cosmos 1000 I would just buy a triple rad and be done with it. (RX360 or TFC 360). Everything else looks good.
"There is no reason to W/C the chipset either"

Hot looks and lower temps are reasons no? hopefully it will also satisfy my need of tinkering for a while
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I was thinking of setting up loop like this-

fillport-res-pump-280 rad-cpu block-120 rad-mobo block-res

or optionally

fillport-res-pump-280 rad-120 rad-cpu block-mobo block-res

which would be better?
I also have a some question's about coolant.

I hear there are non-conductive fluids that you can use. This sounds like a great idea in case of any leaks. Can someone reccommend a non conductive coolant? I have read that distilled water with a drop or 2 of blue dawn dishsoap and some pt nuke is best. But if regular distilled water happened to leak, would it short out and fry components? Is distilled water conductive? (I'm guessing yes)

Now, one last question- why not use anti-freeze mixed in with the water? I have never read about anyone using it in a computer? Would it be ok if you used neoprene(rubber automotive) hoses? A car will run cooler on a water/antifreeze mix than it will on water alone. What makes a watercooled computer different? I'm guessing that it would ruin the pump or the hoses. thanks
Quote:


Originally Posted by bob808
View Post

I also have a some question's about coolant.

I hear there are non-conductive fluids that you can use. This sounds like a great idea in case of any leaks. Can someone reccommend a non conductive coolant? I have read that distilled water with a drop or 2 of blue dawn dishsoap and some pt nuke is best. But if regular distilled water happened to leak, would it short out and fry components? Is distilled water conductive? (I'm guessing yes)

Now, one last question- why not use anti-freeze mixed in with the water? I have never read about anyone using it in a computer? Would it be ok if you used neoprene(rubber automotive) hoses? A car will run cooler on a water/antifreeze mix than it will on water alone. What makes a watercooled computer different? I'm guessing that it would ruin the pump or the hoses. thanks

Couple things:

1. I believe juggalo is saying not to WC the chipset because the NB is not really doing all that much with the integrated memory controller in an i7. It's just not creating the same amount of heat as a 775 system. Replace the thermal compound on the chip with one of the quality compounds and reseat the heatsink, you should be fine for non extreme overclocking.

2. Non-conductive fluids are a complete scam. Any non conductive additive will lose that property over time resulting in the same situation as just using regular distilled. Don't spend the money, you're just wasting it.

3. Distilled water is still conductive, though at a much lower level than tap water. There's less ionization in steam distilled water but it's still there, and thus still partially conductive.

4. Dawn is used to decrease the surface tension of liquid in the loop allowing for easier bleeding of the system, and elimination of micro bubbles trapped inside. There's a thread on it pretty recently in this section, you can see some of the additives people use for their best performance.

5. No, a car won't run cooler with antifreeze. The antifreeze actually has a lower specific heat capacity than pure water, and thus results in higher temps in an automotive system. The reason for antifreeze is higher boil off protection, and of course the lower freezing point provided by the mix. Yes you can mix it for freezing protection, however that's not really necessary.

6. Use pure distilled water only. Pick your choice of anti microbial solutions (silver or ptnuke) and stick with it. Avoid dyes, and check for any growth in the loop monthly.

Hope that helps.
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thank you for the info. I was going to order some of the nuke additive but was sold out on the sites that i looked at. But i did get silver plated fittings. Will the silver fittings be enough to keep the loop clean or should i still look for the nuke stuff?
4
Quote:


Originally Posted by bob808
View Post

Hi
Any advise will be greatly appreiciated. Heres my shopping list-
[...]
Thanks for comments and advise


Hello

I would strongly advise you to listen to my advice.
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I was thinking about going into water cooling, but I don't have the money now due to looking out for a new job. Three computer retailers and no luck. Best Buy, Fry's and Micro Center. I'll try out water cooling as soon as I can get the funds for the project. I really like the benefits of lower temps. and a less noisier solution.
3
Quote:

Originally Posted by Digital Artist View Post
Hello

I would strongly advise you to listen to my advice.
heh- never was very good at spelling

*fixed spelling in first post
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Quote:

Originally Posted by bob808 View Post
thank you for the info. I was going to order some of the nuke additive but was sold out on the sites that i looked at. But i did get silver plated fittings. Will the silver fittings be enough to keep the loop clean or should i still look for the nuke stuff?
I'm not sure of the actual surface area of silver needed to keep a loop clean. I use 4 bitspower tru-silver fittings and the longer (12in I think?) kill coil from jabtech. I've had no issues with my loop whatsoever. Are 4 bitspower fittings enough? I really don't have enough info to answer that.

Just because it's worked for me I'd recommend you find somewhere to get some more 99.9 silver in town. Try to pickup a 10g strip (to maximize surface area) and toss it in your res. Not sure who in town would have that kind of silver, but you might try calling a jeweler. Otherwise just pickup the strip from jab-tech and call it good.
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Thanks for the reply iquark

I'm actually going to be using 10 of the tru-silver fittings-
4 for the rads
4 for the blocks
2 on the res
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another question for you pro's-
I am getting 1/2" barbs and 7/16 hose. Will I still need hose clamps or not?
I didnt order any ><
Quote:


Originally Posted by bob808
View Post

another question for you pro's-
I am getting 1/2" barbs and 7/16 hose. Will I still need hose clamps or not?
I didnt order any ><

Safety First! I would still clamp/zip tie 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs. Some choose not to, but I always figure it's not a big deal to have a little extra protection. You can get the color of your choice in clamps or zip ties so looks really isn't an excuse!
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