Overclock.net banner
1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, how's it going.
biggrin.gif


Now if you are wondering if the Kuhler 920 or any other radiator will fit on the inside of the case the answer is yes and no. The reason I say that is because the top exhaust fan doesn't have enough clearance at the top for a radiator to properly fit. It's missing like 3mm
mad.gif
. The bottom exhaust will pose a problem with closing your side panel and you will loose the ability to install a fan on the side panel. One of the two hooks on the side panel that holds the side fan will clash with the tubing/second fan on the radiator and one has to force close the side panel. When I did that my side panel fan wouldn't spin because the frame of the fan was compressed inward. So just to give you the idea of what will happen if you try to force a side fan anyways. Without the side fan it doesn't seem to be that much of a problem.

So keeping all this in mind I decided to mod my case to make the radiator fit at the top. This mod is very easy to conduct. Actually this was my first time modding a case. So if anything don't be scared. All you need is a Phillips screwdriver, a nibbler and 20 mins of your time, oh and maybe a beer
cheers.gif
.

Let's start with taking off the top of the 1200 case

You have get into your case and unscrew the 8 screws 4 around the 230mm fan and another 2 just to the left of the 230mm fan and two more just to the right of the fan. There's only a total of 12 screws that you can unscrew anyways. The last four attach the honeycomb grill above the 230mm Big Boy to the top. Those four screws are much larger than the other 8. Once the screws are off push the top in the direction to the front of the case, as the top is also attached by 4 plastic pins.

Once you have that finished you should see this:
(sorry I started nibbling before I decided to make this guide)


Place the radiator against the top and use a sharpie to make a rough outline of where you going to cut the steel:

I just went of the already existing rectangular hole, as that makes things much simpler in many ways.

I recommend taking your motherboard out before you start nibbling away. Or you can do as I have done below with a use of tape and a towel. Make sure to unplug you computer and discharge any remaining charge by pressing the power button. Also be sure to plug up all the top holes on the case if your too lazy to take out the motherboard. As I didn't tape up the other square rectangular hole and a piece of metal fell thru it and hid on my motherboard. Had to take the mobo out anyways
thumbsdownsmileyanim.gif
. My towel/tape set up is show on the 2nd pic down.

This is the nibbler that I have used for this project:
LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01
I ordered it from eBay for $12. It's very simple to us You just put the nibbling part between steel and nibble away. Small metal pieces will come out of the little hole. I collected each piece after each successful nibble.

As you nibble away you will get to the area in the case where the steel dips down around the circle:

The nibblers nibble is too small do deal with this dip so just nibble around the dip going along with the circle. That's the great thing about the nibbler you can twist and turn it whichever way you desire.


This is that evil piece that decided to hide on my mobo. They are very small as you can see.

This is how the end product should look like after you have nibbled away all the unnecessary steel:



The rad comes up just the right amount of space to allow the Big Boy to still be installed with maybe like 1-2mm to spare.

Here's a top view:


Now you must break something before you put everything together. Cuz you know breaking is always fun:

Break of the right pin underneath the top that you took of early in this mod. Remember that rectangular hole? That's where that pin snapped in, but now the rad has taken over that space so to bad for the pin, poor pin
frown.gif
. once that is done you can put everything back together the same way you took it apart. You should have 2 screw left over as the rad also took over those screws spot. I suggest to screw in the three screws on the sides of the 230mm first, not the ones around the 230mm fan. This will make it a bit easier to put the screws around the 230mm fan back. This part is a little tricky if you dont line up the top just right. And even then they might not sit the way they were before. This is what I mean:

DON'T FORGET TO ATTACH THE BLACK WIRE THE WAY IT WAS BEFORE! That's the ground wire.

Now once you have put everything together install your rad at the top exhaust spot. Close your side panel and continue your day.

Now there is one last thing I should mention. There will be a little gap developed between the side panel and the top. Its because the plastic pin and the screw that secures the top to the case can no longer be used as the rad just occupied their space. Everything else goes back to its original spots. Its a minor gap in my eyes that only you will know its there.
wheee.gif


How it looks with the rad installed:


How it originally looked like:


No rattling, no nothing occurs with the Big Boy sitting on top of the rad.
This little mod should essentially work with all radiators. I know I have tried it with an H100i and everything worked just fine.

Here's all the scraps:


I switched my stock fans to Gentle Typhoons AP-45 2150 RPM. Whisper quiet even at full speed. I have got two Sunbeamtech Rheosmart PCI Fan Controllers to continue being able to adjust the speed of the GT fans through ChillControl V.

I hope this has answered some questions and will help out those with the Antec 1200 case who would like to switch over to the closed loop water cooling. As for me I will never go back to having a giant chunk of metal hanging off my motherboard.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top