[[AK]Blak-Hawk]

I know flow rate can make a difference in temperatures, but I'm curious as to how much of an effect it can have. As of right now I have the EK Dual Bay Spin reservoir. The way I have it set up is causing problems, or I think it is.
Here is a diagram of how I have my flow in and out of the res set up.

The flow rate indicator on the cpu loop spins very very slowly to the point where it "creeps" and doesnt spin consistently. I am using the HK 3.0 block with a DDC pump. I had the cpu loop on the radiator alone before and the indicator showed a fast and consistent indicator. I plan on putting one of the loops on a second reservoir soon. I just want to make sure that im not spending money when I dont need to. Any ideas? And my second question is, how much is the situation im in effecting my temps? I clocked the CPU @ 4.41GHz with a volt of 4.1XXX [Cant Remember and cant check since im out of town] it was stable in linx but it hit temps of 90-94c. I'd expect a cpu with a HK 3.0 block and a Fesser XChanger 360 rad w/push pull config to show a bit better temps or am I mistaken? Sorry if im all over the place with this post. Trying to watch Spain vs. Portugal at the same time haha.

 

[Sider]

From your diagram it looks like the cpu loop is the one that actually makes the flow indicator spin. I'd check the cpu block and make sure it's not plugged up. Some of the cpu blocks these days make great filters and will catch all sorts of crap.

 

[[AK]Blak-Hawk]

Thing is I've had the cpu block for less than 2 weeks. I JUST put in the GPU loop and ever since then its had problems.

 

[Sider]

I have a Thermochill PA120.4 rad. They're notorious for having gobs of flux in them even after taking precautions of flushing/cleaning them prior to putting them in a loop. Most, if not all, rads have similar construction methods and therefore varying levels of flux in them.

I've had to drain my system several times now since adding my new rad and every time I do some more flux gets blown out of the rad and gets caught up in the cpu block and kills my flow. Do yourself a favor and check it.

 

[windfire]

First, I have not used this EK Bay Spin Reservoir before and am not speaking by experience.

However, I just read the Installation Manual (http://81.90.180.2/ekwaterblocks/sho...0046994226.pdf) and the official page (http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/re...oir-plexi.html) and I think your current setup highly reduces the efficiency of the loop.

Directly looking at those 4 holes, the rightmost hole is the only Inlet. The other 3 holes are best setup as Outlets. According to the EK's description, water flows into the Inlet hole, then it spins the flow metre, then flows into the Reservoir compartment, then it comes out from one/two/three Outlet hole(s). This is the ''fully functional'' arrangement for this device. (see attached diagram #1)

Your current setup works but the corresponding performance is diminished. With the setup as shown in your diagram, a portion of water in the Res compartment flows out and goes to the graphic card and is then immediately directed back into the Res compartment through an Outlet hole. This flow goes against the Inlet flow, thus making the Inflow to slow down (ie the flow metre spinning very slowly and inconsistently). (see attached diagram #2)

Compare the CPU temperature before and after this addition (of the 2nd loop for the graphic card) and you should see a noticeable jump in temperature.

So, you better rearrange.

PS Besides, I see you have a highly overclocked i7 with three GTX480s. How many rads you are using? A single Feser 360 is certainly not enough.

 

[[AK]Blak-Hawk]

I have 2 360mm rads. So in order to have it run correctly id need a y-fitting or something like it? It would be much simpler and cheaper than a second res. Would there be any possible issues I might run into? But +rep. Thanks!

 

[windfire]

Yes, Y-fitting or something like that would combine the two Outflows into one for the only Inlet port. I imagine your setup will be something like the attached diagram below.

IMHO, a single overclocked GTX480 needs a 240 rad to have 'good' temperature. For Tri-SLI, a pair of 360s is preferred, or least a 480 or 560. Then, the overclocked i7 better has a 240 rad.
So, if you are not too happy with the temperature of your components, perhaps adding a 240 rad?

I notice your Danger Den Double Wide is huge enough to take in more rads.

OT:
Who do you think will win the World Cup? I am hoping for a Final with Brazil vs Germany.

 

[[AK]Blak-Hawk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by windfire Yes, Y-fitting or something like that would combine the two Outflows into one for the only Inlet port. I imagine your setup will be something like the attached diagram below. IMHO, a single overclocked GTX480 needs a 240 rad to have 'good' temperature. For Tri-SLI, a pair of 360s is preferred, or least a 480 or 560. Then, the overclocked i7 better has a 240 rad. So, if you are not too happy with the temperature of your components, perhaps adding a 240 rad? I notice your Danger Den Double Wide is huge enough to take in more rads. OT: Who do you think will win the World Cup? I am hoping for a Final with Brazil vs Germany.

Ya I'm gonna make a visit to frozen CPU very soon. With the 480's the temps are great never seen it go higher than 50~. I'm not sure if I'm going to do much over clocking with the cards. But who knows!

I would love to see a Germany v. Brazil final! All I have to say is long live Deutschland!

 

[[AK]Blak-Hawk]

I have everything done and installed. Flow rates are much better and my cpu temps dropped to high 70's @ 4.41GHz. YAY more room to OC!