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lololol
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Discussion Starter #1
disassembly

there are 7 screws:
1 torx screw (t5):


2 under the g900 label, 1 under each side feet, 2 under the sides of the bottom feet. you do not need to remove the top feet.


the shell falls apart pretty easily after unscrewing these. there are two cables at the base: one ribbon cable for all the switches/lighting of the top shell, and one power cable for the battery. the ribbon cable is trivial to unplug: just lift up the flap. the power cable connector is very tight. be careful to not break the pcb when unplugging it; the pcb is very very thin.


top piece:


battery is attached via some double-sided tape. you can pry it out with a bit of effort.
if you plan on reattaching and removing the battery in the future, i recommend peeling off some of the double-sided tape


once you unscrew the ten screws near the edges of the top piece, and the single screw under the hole covered by the battery, the top shell should be loose. wiggle it around a bit to figure out how to take it off.


oh hey... look what we've got here

someone was careless in the assembly line and got a spring onto the magnet for one of the side buttons
tongue.gif


nearly full disassembly:


standard 20m omrons:


button hinge:


the bar takes a bit of force to push out:


bottom piece:


full disassembly:


wheel pcb top:


wheel pcb bottom:


main pcb top:


main pcb bottom:


weight
no pic, but with all the feet and screws in place, and the standard configuration of side buttons, the g900 weights 107.0g on my scale.

with top, bottom, and side feet; 7 screws; and side buttons/covers removed, 103.2g remain.


top shell is 64.8g


battery accounts for 14.4g of that


bottom shell is 38.4g


of which 9.9g are due to the scroll wheel
 

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This is awesome.

I'm wondering whether the battery can be removed and will the mouse still function?

If you leave the mouse plugged in, but just don't have the battery, is there any problems?
 

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PC Gamer
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1,651 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatgold View Post

This is awesome.

I'm wondering whether the battery can be removed and will the mouse still function?

If you leave the mouse plugged in, but just don't have the battery, is there any problems?
it does work, you void the warranty by doing so.

up to you whether or not its worth it. on a mouse this price its not worth it to me. besides, wireless.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by qsxcv View Post

disassembly

someone was careless in the assembly line and got a spring onto the magnet for one of the side buttons
tongue.gif
are you sure the spring was on the magnet? I remember 2 springs from the G 502 sitting near the wheel (those were for the 4 way wheel if I remember correctly).
Better check taht before re-assambling
 

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Facepalm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unplayed namer View Post

are you sure the spring was on the magnet? I remember 2 springs from the G 502 sitting near the wheel (those were for the 4 way wheel if I remember correctly).
Better check taht before re-assambling
THIS.
You probably took off a spring from the wheel, which became attached to a magnet which grips the buttons.
Very unlikely there would be an extra spring in the mouse.
 

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Facepalm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by discoprince View Post

it does work, you void the warranty by doing so.

up to you whether or not its worth it. on a mouse this price its not worth it to me. besides, wireless.
This mouse was designed to be wireless. Removing the battery is only for battery replacement, and the mouse is able to work without a battery, but that's only for fallback mode, while you replace the battery. Unless Logitech tells you to remove it if they sent you a replacement battery, don't remove it. Your warranty will be void.

If you (not you, the person I'm quoting) really are anal enough to want to use this mouse without a battery, why would you pay $150 for it? Wait for the wired no battery version to come out, which will probably cost $50 less, and weigh 90g, and come with a full warranty! I mean it's up to you...some of you throw LN2 on CPU's, so it's your hardware. Just don't complain if you void the warranty then something breaks....
 

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Weight with the cable plugged?

You could have used some lighter fluid to remove the feet without damaging them or the plastic (from what I seen, but I'm not 100% sure that's the case). I used lighter fluid to clean my Zowie FK, however, the FK has a coating that likely resists damage to the plastic.

I dissembled my G100s and ZA13 by pressing down on the feet until I could see a depression (indicating the screw holes), I cut out that portion of the feet with a hobby knife/razor. Then I folded in the edges so the feet wouldn't scrape on the mouse pad.
 

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lololol
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Discussion Starter #10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by unplayed namer View Post

are you sure the spring was on the magnet? I remember 2 springs from the G 502 sitting near the wheel (those were for the 4 way wheel if I remember correctly).
Better check taht before re-assambling
THIS.
You probably took off a spring from the wheel, which became attached to a magnet which grips the buttons.
Very unlikely there would be an extra spring in the mouse.
come on guys...
i'm not that careless
thumb.gif

both wheel springs are still intact, so it really is an extra one.
 

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Why not just use this mouse without cable and battery? That'll make it the lightest possible.
 

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lololol
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Discussion Starter #12
uhhhhhhm
 

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lololol
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Discussion Starter #13
Quote:
Originally Posted by popups View Post

Weight with the cable plugged?
107-14.4=92.6
probably something a little heavier than g303's weight in the end.
Quote:
You could have used some lighter fluid to remove the feet without damaging them or the plastic (from what I seen, but I'm not 100% sure that's the case). I used lighter fluid to clean my Zowie FK, however, the FK has a coating that likely resists damage to the plastic.
i just peeled them off. not too much damage... but damaged enough that if i put them back on, it won't be perfectly uniform.
Quote:
I dissembled my G100s and ZA13 by pressing down on the feet until I could see a depression (indicating the screw holes), I cut out that portion of the feet with a hobby knife/razor. Then I folded in the edges so the feet wouldn't scrape on the mouse pad.
g100s's hole is large and easy to find. g900's holes... not so much. but now that i've found them, anyone else who wants to do this can do what you say
 

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Awesome topic.M8 can you show us what type of click switches is used and famous click retention mechanism in this mouse?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by qsxcv View Post

i just peeled them off. not too much damage... but damaged enough that if i put them back on, it won't be perfectly uniform.

g100s's hole is large and easy to find. g900's holes... not so much. but now that i've found them, anyone else who wants to do this can do what you say
The screw holes for front of the ZA13 are very small, the rear screw holes are much bigger. At first I thought there wasn't any front screws for the ZA13, but after applying some more pressure they revealed themselves.
 

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lololol
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Discussion Starter #19
updated op with more pictures

soooooo

teflon thread seal tape fixes the looseness of the buttons without adding any noticeable friction

just one layer of it is enough.
 
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