[Waltc]

How is the X570 Master?

Also how is Gigabyte RGB Software?

I think the Master is a very nice mobo--likely the best I've ever owned--and I've been buying them for 30+ years... Yea--like it fine. No problems thus far, but I should qualify that with I never allow my desktops to sleep, but that's something with a lot of variables besides just the mobo bios--but some folks with an Aorus x570 mboard say they have problem with sleep/hibernation. OK, don't use RGB software--don't do Christmas trees until Christmas.... But, none of the GB "application software" works for me--none of it. Win10x64, v1903, build 10014. Though I do see they've put out a newer version of their RGB software, so if that's important to you you may be in luck on that score. But the rest of it? Ah, you don't need it... It's all totally superfluous, aside from the fact that none of it works... GB really needs to update it's utilities for no other reason than to enhance their reputation--which has grown enormously in 2019 with their x570 boards. I think a good rep is earned by them and deserved for this Master--take it out of the box and you know it's a work of art... I mean that, seriously. Nice mboard!

 

[Waltc]

So, on the advice of our GB rep here, I contacted tech support, they gave me a list of things to try. One of their requests was to try with an entirely new PSU. Luckily, I had one from an old build lying around, and my problems are miraculously gone. Yes, the PSU fixed issues with booting with the "wrong" display cable plugged in. SEE UPDATE

Yes, it was my PSU - a be quiet! PURE POWER 11 600w. I spent the extra cash to get a "nice" PSU, and yet, apparently it is the component that has given me so much trouble. I'm so confused as to what this could have to do with HDMI vs DVI vs DisplayPort. I spent hours testing, literally changing only the plug in the back of the GPU, booting over and over and over to try to isolate what issue was caused by what. Who knows. I've experienced a dead/dying PSU before, and it was nothing like this.

UPDATE: Just got back from the store after exchanging for a brand new be quiet! PURE POWER 11 600w. Exact same issues as with the other PSU of the same make/model. Either I got two bunk PSU's (unbelievably unlikely), or Gigabyte's x570 board doesn't play nicely with this PURE POWER 11. What in the ****. I'll fully swap in the Enermax Revolution DUO 700w for this build I guess. I know a Vega64 can pull a lot of power, but 600w should be more than sufficient. Additionally, once the PC had booted I could use it just fine. Games ran perfectly, no power problems, etc. Going to try the new PURE POWER 11 600w in my old PC I guess. I feel bad taking it back again when this is obviously a compatibility issue.

The overall wattage number isn't as important as the amperage numbers printed on the PSU. With these high-performance boards and cpus, plus GPUs, of course, I wouldn't feel comfortable with less than ~62a on the 12v rail--and preferably a single 12v rail. Usually, with a quality PSU, that's going to equate to ~750W rating, but not always, which is why you need to check--a 600W PSU with a 12v rail amperage rating of 40a, for instance, would certainly give you some problems, I should think. Just advice to check the amperage on the 12v rail (single rail is better than a dual-rail, imo) and go with 62a or higher. My 850W HX-850 Corsair does 72a on the 12v rail--which has a switch which I've configured to a single 12v rail. The amperage ratings (especially on the 12v rail) are actually more important than the overall PSU Wattage numbers.

 

[Waltc]

I just grabbed 4 sticks of Trident Z RGB 3200C14 16GB ( 2 x F4-3200C14D-32GTZR ) and did some overclocking on x570 master F5o with a 3900x this morning. It was challenging due to my 5700xt having issues training at PCIe 4.0. I managed to get [email protected] after a lot of BIOS resets. It was hard to tell the time spent in memory training vs that PCIe 4.0 issue but I'd guess around 20 seconds.

Don't bother with setting your GPU to PCIe4 mode right now--save yourself a lot of time and aggravation by setting the bios to boot your card (I have the 50th Ann ed of the 5700XT) in PCIe3 mode. The rest of your system will operate in PCIe4 mode if you have PCIe4 devices in those slots, or will autoconfig if you don't. The bios setting for Gen3 only affects the GPU slot. Your local ram on your GPU is already much faster than PCIe4 so you won't notice any difference at all in performance by setting it to PCIe3 mode. The reward, however, is that you will boot every single time, cold and warm boot, and in the normal amount of time = quick! Trust me. It's very much worth it! Eventually they will solve the problem with PCIe4 GPU booting, I'm certain.

 

[Waltc]

Can you expand on your reasoning here, I just bought a new auros master 3600 and a 2080ti. From what ive gathered from just a bit of quick research is the 2080ti peaks at around 4.5a on the 12v rail. But doing ohms law at say 300w/12v=45a. I bought a seasonic gold focus+ 650 and everything I read on this forums states that 650w is plenty for single card systems. Can you show anything that backs up your min current number your stating, not questioning you really just wondering where you are getting your numbers from Im a sparky and want to read the data myself and decide if I made the right choice as my 12v rail is rated at 648 watts at 42a.

@AlphaC being the resident power guy does this make any sense?

I said this because years ago, when 12v rails were nowhere near as critical and demanding as they are now--I actually read the labels on PSUs whose wattage numbers on the 12v rail were abysmal--sometimes 25a on the 12v rail--when maybe, even way back then, they should have been at least 35a. So, it may not happen as much today, and I should hope it doesn't--except I would be leery of cheap, no-name PSUs--but that's just me... There's a reason that a decent modular PSU, such as the Corsair series, put 62a 12v rails on their 750W PSUs--72a on their 850W, etc. The point here is that it's always better to have more amperage on the 12v rail in particular, imo, than you think you need--for instance, right now my CPU is a 3600X--next year I will likely move into CPU demanding a lot more 12v power--and I'm already set in the PSU department. So you want a PSU you can grow with--so that you won't have to change that out, too, when you upgrade your hardware. Far too many people pretend that the PSU essentially doesn't really matter that much--and they have the problems you would expect, but usually blame it erroneously on something else--because they've already told themselves that their bargain-basement PSU should be "sufficient." But it isn't--so they chase their tails.... I've read many a PSU review of cheap no-name knock-off PSU's which in testing did not live up to the wattage labels printed on them. So, my advice for what it's worth is:


1) Buy a quality, well-reviewed PSU with a nice long warranty (at least three years)

2) Buy more amperage than you need on the 12v rail(s)


3) Check the efficiency ratings, too, which are important and not to be ignored, imo.



...and you can probably rule your PSU out as a problem source, should you have any problems. Just my opinion, of course--and I'm not saying that your present PSU is a "cheap no name PSU," either... Just thought I would mention the amperage readings--there's a reason the manufacturers print those on their PSUs, just like the wattage. But, again, a wattage label is no guarantee of anything--hence the need to buy a decent PSU that has been well-reviewed, has a good reputation and a decently long warranty. Notice that I am not recommending you buy these 1000-W rated monsters, etc.--far too many people spend the $$$ on those an never use 60% of the output!

 

[Waltc]

I see there is a new BIOS for the X570 I, but none of the 4 regions allow me to do download the file... anyone can download the zip?

https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/X570-I-AORUS-PRO-WIFI-rev-10/support#support-dl-bios

Ditto--my browser is set to the correct region (Global English, too)--I cannot access them--and I have an x570 Master. Apparently they are not yet on the server and apparently are in the process of migrating there.... Would *expect* the situation to rectify itself shortly.... That would be nice..

 

[Waltc]

hi i have master (last bios) and 3900x stock, ram patriot stock 2133mhz and 1080ti...the pc behaves strangely, just freezes, sound from gpu the sound skips,...what a solution to where to start, I'm slowly losing patience

Have the same motherboard and a 3600X. No similar problems. This *sounds* like a PSU problem, ironically, since I was just talking about that with someone else. It could be many other things, of course. Query: why are you using the GPU sound? IMO, the motherboard sound from the ALC1220 & the ESS Sabre DAC, and the headphone amp, is far superior. I disable my GPU sound capability in the device manager routinely--but I don't have to as there's no conflict between the drivers, but I have an AMD GPU and cannot speak with experience about nVidia GPU sound drivers for the 1080ti. Good luck! But all is well here with the x570 Master.

 

[Waltc]

New x570 Aorus Master bios F5 is really nice, thus far. For the first time since I bought my 2x8GB DDR4 ram (see sig)--this is the third motherboard I've used it in (an x370 then x470 MSI mboards previously)--I've actually been able to achieve a significantly higher clock > its normal 3200MHz XMP rating! Right now I'm running @ 3600MHz @ 18 18 18 18 38 75 1T--so far it appears rock solid, too. Latency has improved from 75ns @ 3200 to 68ns @ 3600! This is @ stock voltage of 1.35v, too! See my sig below for the stock XMP timings @ 3200MHz. I changed the stock timings listed below and left everything else at auto--including gear-down mode on. Additionally, my PCIE4 GPU has been warm booting set to "Auto" all morning long with the DDC/Cl mode on in the monitor--fingers crossed there, too! This seems the best bios, yet! What problems I have should any arise I'll report in this thread as they come up!


Edit: I played with the ram timings some more and found that 16-18-18-18-38-64 & "Auto" for everything else runs fine @ XMP 3600MHz! F5 bios--by far the best of all the bios releases thus far, imo, for my x570 Master. Interesting to me is that fact that these same two DIMMs were also run in an MSI x370 Gaming Pro Carbon AC, and then I used them in the MSI x470 Gaming Pro Carbon, before using it in this x570 Master. In neither of the MSI mboards was I able to get even XMP 3266MHz stable, believe it or not, regardless of how I set the timings! I did not expect to jump 200Mhz actual, 400Mhz effective, to XMP 3600, with this ram, so needless to say this motherboard has pleasantly surprised the s*it out of me....:thumb:


Two days later--and my PCIe4 GPU hasn't missed a boot straight into PCIe4 mode, warm or cold boot. As each day goes by I become progressively more hopeful that this problem has been fixed with bios F5. Highly recommended to x570 Master owners.

 

[Waltc]

Sorry to say that but now I had 2 X570 Elite Boards with faulty A2 Dimm Slot and a complete dead X470 Gaming 7 behind each other. Whats going on in the Gigabyte quality control?

I once bought two Abit boards from the same supplier--neither one worked--they were horrible--both badly messed up electrically. Guy would not refund my money(!) on the first one so I bought "his only remaining board," he said--two days later he was gone--vanished into the ether. I was impatient--haste makes waste, etc. I think what happened is I was unlucky enough to do business with a gray-market reseller. They usually buy defective motherboards for pennies on the dollar from various motherboard distributors who have taken them in as warranty returns, but then they turn around and try to sell them to unwitting peeps like I was way back then. They are supposed to salvage components from those failed motherboards--not resell them at retail. No fun at all--I've never forgotten the incident. Learned a valuable lesson. Often the source of a purchase is as important as the manufacturer!

Hopefully, this didn't happen to you--but I thought I'd mention it! It's the only time in decades that I've had an experience similar to yours. Hope I never do again!

I bought my first Aorus x570 Master mboard from Newegg as on July 7 they were the only people who had them in stock--it's been perfect. motherboards purchased from Amazon have also been fine. Got it on the 7/9--I was impatient this time around, too, but my source was much better...

 

[Waltc]

I know for a fact that AMD dialed down the Max boost in the latest AGESAs, but it really isn't a big deal--I'll give you my opinion as to why.. In AGESAs 1002/3 I was getting a 4.4GHz boost logged by test applications like 3dMark. I'd read the logs and written outputs from 3dmark that confirmed I was getting 4.4GHz Max boost, occasionally. In later AGESA versions, like the splendid F5 Aorus Master x570 bios I'm using now, AGESA 1003ABB & other stuff(!), it's been reduced to an absolute Max boost of 4.275GHz, or a paltry 125Mhz below the former maximum boost of 4.4GHz--but the thing is that my performance in these test programs like 3dMark has been the same--or else within a couple of percent, plus or minus, of the 4.4GHz max boost activated in previous AGESAs. (Anyone who wishes to go back to his former max boost but forego all of the positive changes the latter AGESAs have provided is of course free to do so at any time.) I think the reasons for the identical performance is because a) max boost was always single-core boost anyway; 2)probably the boost periods are longer than they were at the former max because AMD doesn't have to bang the cores with 1.5v anymore! I don't see 1.5v anymore, but I did see it with the early AGESA's, plainly.

Some people still believe that any cpu running at 5Ghz, let's say, is going to be *faster* than any cpu running at 4.5GHz or 4.8GHz, etc. There are still people out there who still don't understand how a cpu running at 4.5GHz can be faster than a cpu running at 5GHz! But we have known it's possible since AMD shipped the first Athlon cpus in the late 1990's and definitively proved that MHz is but one component of CPU performance. So everyone should know and understand that GHz alone does not determine actual performance, that simply put, it's GHz X IPC = Performance, most of the time. It seems to me that since AMD has reduced the max single-core boost a tad, and reduced the CPU voltage spikes needed to hit that target, that now the single-core boost can run longer, thus off-setting the small performance differences one might expect to see from a tiny drop in MHz alone. This makes perfect sense to me and I would hope to other people, too. I have zero complaints with Zen 2 thus far.

 

[Waltc]

Anyone with master f5 bios have terrible time recovering from dram overclock failure?

Took me 15 mins of power cycling to get back to the bios reset screen.

In that time, it's either black screen of nothing and then stuck aoruos splash screen to windows recovery screen and then finally bios reset.

15 mins of frickin powering on off and mashing reset in between, just to get into bios.:specool:

What happened to me was that the system locked up during the post because of a ram overclock. Quickest route for me was pressing the power key for 4 seconds to shut down, clearing CMOS, then rebooting and resetting my bios. Didn't take 15 minutes, but it did take all of five minutes or so... When it locked during I knew this was my only route back!

 

[Waltc]

I know but this not ideal, i need to crawl under my desk.
Asus if ram OC failure, i power cycle 2-3 times and it comes back to a screen telling my OC fail and hit F1 to enter bios.
And you know what, the bios settings remain after i enter!

Asus rog bios is really good. Giga ned to steal some people over if ever want to make Aorus brand as strong.
I guess Asus may have some memory reserved and some hardware timer to know how many times you force a reboot.

Besides when flashing new bios in master, i encountered the stuck screen too! Can you believe it?
Ok granted i flash through the usb3 header but it all went fine. The stuck screen happens on reboot!

I have to crawl under my desk, too, but even so it's so much easier than having to set a jumper on the board used to be.... But it only happened to me once, and right now with F5, I'm running my XMP 3200MHz ram (stock) @ XMP 3600 @ 16-18-18-18-38-68, 1t, gear down, at the default voltage which autosets @ 1.35v, I even jumped it to 3733 once just to see if I could... I could, but I'm sticking at XMP 3600 for now--because the Infinity Fabric only autoconfigs up to 3600Mhz (1800MHz). What caused my lockup was not the frequency overclocks but rather the timings--I stupidly tried to use the same XMP 3200 stock timings of 16-16-16-16-36-64 @ XMP 3600MHz--locked up hard...so I'll remember that lesson.

I had an MSI mboard (well, two of them, an x370 and x470 Gaming Pro Carbon) that would allow you a certain number of overclock attempts before clearing cmos. Problem was, it was unreliable! Sometimes it would clear CMOS like it should, sometimes it would boot back to 2133, and sometimes it did nothing and I'd have to do the jumper thing to clear CMOS manually. My experience with those boards--supposed to handle OC recovery automatically--was anything but as it should have been. From what I've seen of the x570 Master, my experience has been that if the post succeeds but the boot fails with Windows recovery error, that after two attempts the mboard will boot back into 2133Mhz. From there you enter CMOS and install your settings. The only time it didn't happen was the one time I locked up--my fault, entirely.

As to using the USB3 port to flash from--I think there's a reason they've designated a rear port specifically marked for bios updating... My first x370 mboard, no dual bios, of course, I bricked trying to use a front-panel USB3 port to flash from when I should have used a back-panel USB port--had to RMA the mboard. They replaced it, but it was a whole lot of hassle I could have avoided by not being too lazy to go under my desk and place the USB stick in one of the rear ports...!

Also, in case you might be interested, although the back-panel USB 2.0 ports didn't work with the earliest bios versions, they are all working perfectly now and have been for the last few bios versions--I now run my keyboard and mouse from those USB 2.0 ports and they work as advertised, and in the bios, too. Not sure which bios version fixed them--I think that I decided to try the ports when running F5l, and they worked and have continued to work through F5o and now the final F5.

AMD is making an announcement on Sept 10th about the upcoming AGESA that will restore the boost MHz that latter AGESA versions reduced, slightly. Interesting stuff--been awhile since I've worked through a new-architecture CPU release from the start, like this...! When living on the bleeding edge, patience is advised, etc. I've got plenty of that, luckily...

 

[Waltc]

Hi,


Every time I shutdown the computer, power off the PSU, then restart the computer I get the following in the event viewer:


Event 29, Kernel-Boot
Windows failed fast startup with error status 0xC00000D4.


Event 6008, EventLog
The previous system shutdown at 8:48:37 PM on ‎9/‎10/‎2019 was unexpected.


Event 41, Kernel-Power
The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.


3800x, x570 Aorus Master F6, 970 Evo plus 1TB M.2, Windows 10 1093, latest chipset drivers etc.

First things first--turn off *fastboot*--both inside Windows if you have it turned on, and in the bios if you have enabled it. If you boot from SSD or NVMe you just don't need it, not to mention that it's always been problematic for as long as I can recall. I post and boot to the Win10 desktop in ~10 seconds, cold boot or warm, makes no difference. Fastboot is a hangover from the HDD days, when it could take 90 seconds-120 seconds to get to the desktop.

 

[Waltc]

Hey guys, finally back in the office. The 1st iteration of 1003 ABBA is out in the wild, however (for now) I am going to hold back posting links until I can talk to our team in HQ.

Tweaktown seems to have a mirror up for those interested. Obviously main change log is improved boost speeds, but we also opened up spread spectrum for those who have been asking Its gonna be a few days for me to catch up on the thread, but ping me if you find anything urgent.

Matt, Assuming the beta bios is F7a...? Spread spectrum introduced a toggle with F6, I believe.

 

[Waltc]

After many days of troubleshooting the problem of no post on my Aorus X570 Elite Wifi, the problem was incompatibility with the Intel Wireless Gigabit NIC card that comes with the Wireless Kit for the HTC Vive. On my Intel PC the NIC is working fine. Someone please notify this issue to Gigabyte.


https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/docs/wireless-products/wigig-overview.html


TY

Or, you might like to contact either Intel or HTC (probably HTC since they evidently created the Vive bundle) with information that their Vive NIC card is incompatible with the GB motherboard? Just a thought. Perhaps they can suggest a compatible wireless card for use with their Vive.

 

[Waltc]

F7a beta bios, x570 Aorus Master, running fine here (CPU is stock clocked.) Ram overclocked to XMP 3733 from XMP 3200 (stock). Relaxed timings, no errors, no crashes, and my ram benches all agree it runs a good deal faster than stock XMP settings. Ran 3dMark Timespy, which creates a written log that charts CPU MHz, among other things, and my cpu is now doing correct boosting to 4.4GHz, again, just as it was doing in the early bioses built on AGESAs 1002/3. Everything is working perfectly, no complaints. F7a looks to be a good candidate from where I'm sitting.

 

[Waltc]

Has anybody actually tested ECC support (on the Master)? I.e., will it properly report single- & multi-bit errors, does it gain the usual options in the UEFI with ECC RAM installed? There isn't any sign of ECC support on my desktop with regular RAM in the slots, and I don't have any DDR4 ECC on hand. IOW, what exactly does "support for ECC" mean with these boards?

I'm pretty sure it does not support registered DIMMs, although it could support standard ECC ram if the mobo maker enables and supports it on the mboard. That's really all I have gleaned on the situation--not much, I know. I think for that support (registered DIMMs, etc) you'd want to move to an EPYC server mboard.

 

[Waltc]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hyralak
So I have an issue that was not present in the F5 (or earlier) bios's. After flashing to F6 or F7 bios I can load optimized defaults, set XMP, disable SVM save and boot into Win 10. But if i reboot or shutdown I get an error to reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media etc etc etc. I can reboot enter the bios and see my drives are still showing up (2X ADATA SX8200PNP ), boot order is unchanged, but when I exit the bios I am unable to boot windows due to missing boot device.
If I reflash an F6 or F7 I can once again boot into windows ONE time only. A reboot brings up select proper boot device again. I went back to F5 and no issues finding boot device after reboots. I have also tried clearing CMOS to start fresh it made no difference with the F6 or F7 bios.
Fast start up is OFF in the bios and win10.
Aorus Master

Any suggestions?

Couple of things....Why are you using "load optimized defaults"? It takes like 60 seconds in Advanced bios mode to configure your options like you like them--the idea is that your own settings will be superior to optimized defaults. Also, SVM is turned off by default in the bios. To properly boot into Win10, when you are in the bios, make sure that CSM is disabled. It's not critical that secure boot be enabled, but if you only boot into Windows10 from the same boot drive, and you value security to any degree, you'll want to come back into the bios later and turn secure boot on. OK, if and when you boot into Windows10, you will want to pull up Windows 10's Computer Management/Storage/Disk Management application, and look at your boot drive to make sure that it is properly configured by Windows to be your boot drive.

Before that, when the system is posting you can hit F12 a few times to bring up the boot menu--and you can boot from any drive there provided it is a bootable drive--but if you have more than a single bootable drive you will not want to enable secure boot, in most cases.

If you guys are using more than a single OS boot drive you likely want to find a good Boot Manager somewhere to run inside your Windows partition (Bing/Google Boot Manager and take your pick). Easier and less cumbersome, however, to use F12 and simply select your boot device, though.

In all cases, remember that the root partition on any drive you want to boot to must itself be bootable, otherwise you'll see the dreaded "No OS detected" error messages every time.

I used to boot from multiple drives years ago, but I'm sure I may have left something out, here, as I haven't done it a long time. Hope this might help.

 

[Waltc]

For what it's worth, in my x570 Master I can input a 1900MHz IF with the attendant ram freq overclock, leaving vcore soc at default, and I experience no crackling in sound of any kind--never have under any conditions, actually, since installing the Master on July 9th, regardless of AGESA/bios version--& I've installed all of them. The crackling issue sounds much like interference of some kind, either from an internal or external device. Added thought: I run wired exclusively and disable the wireless Intel adapter in the Device Manager, as well as the onboard bluetooth device (zero point to allowing resource allocation for hardware devices I'm not using, eh?). Wondering what happens for people hearing the crackle if they do the same--wish I could think of something else to offer, but only other thing I can think of might be interference locally being generated by a household device of some kind that is picked up when your IF hits a certain freq. Hope you can get it solved..


A further note: I'm actually very impressed with the ALC1220 & ESS Sabre DAC hardware w/headphone amp that come standard on the x570 Master. I had been using MSI x370/x470 boards prior to going Zen 2, and I tell you the difference with my Sony MDR-7506 studio phones between the MSI Godlike and the GB Aorus Master is night and day--really, it blew me away as I never expected it. You can buy a $350 Zen2 MSI mboard, the Ace, or the $700 Godlike MSI Zen2 mboard (with a Godlike price--like the GB Aorus Extreme)--but the sound hardware is exactly the same with each MSI motherboard! You get the ALC1220, but there all similarity with the x570 Master onboard sound hardware ends: no matter how much you spend for an MSI Zen2 x570 mboard--up to $700--all you get in the way of hardware is the ALC 1220, plus....Nahimic (3.x, for Windows 10) software custom-scripted for MSI exclusively--(it's sound-processing software used to turn the CPU into a sound co-processor on the cheap--to add more bass, treble, midrange, effects, etc.) With my MSI mboards I had thought the sound was fine--at least passable--until I cranked up my x570 Master and plugged my phones into a front-panel HD-audio jack... Holy Moly......What a difference! I'm hearing so much that I never heard before through my former MSI onboard sound--what an incredible difference. Literally was as if I'd suddenly pulled cotton out of my ears! No comparison at all! And no contest. MSI loses bigly, here. That's the sort of surprise I can live with. [I'm impressed with the entire x570 Master board, actually, but up to now had said nothing about the onboard sound.]

 

[Waltc]

I can also confirm that this audio crackle thing surely has something to do with VDDG and VSOC and not some interference from outside of the PC. The crackling appears on external DAC, onboard sound and monitor sound...


My conclusion to this: there must be something wrong with some mainboard series (maybe aorus pro (wifi) only?) I suspect there is some quirk with VDDG voltage with IF frequencies at 1867MHz and above.


GBT-MatthewH can you say something about this?


Oh and the latest beta bios makes booting IF 1900MHz impossible for me while the latest stable works with IF 1900MHz.

The interference notion was merely a suggestion as even at a 1900MHz IF I hear no crackling at all, without regard to VDDG or VSOC, eg. That would pretty much indicate the absence of a physical circuitry problem or "design flaw"...it's sort of amusing how easy it is to forget that overclocking isn't guaranteed by any hardware manufacturer. Indeed, I'm only surprised by the pleasant fact that I can go to XMP 3800 with my XMP 3200 ram at all... I've decided to stick with XMP 3733 for the time being as even P95 is stable there so far.

 

[Waltc]

GB Utilities won't run.....

Please enable/unhide manual control on the chipset PCH fan for god's sake!, why is so hard? MSI has it literally since day 1.

I paid roughly $500 to not have real control of something so absolutely basic like the chipset fan?

I'm literally starting to regret my trust with Gigabyte considering the fact that they don't even give a proper reason on why they decided to hide that option to all users like if is it something extremely dangerous to touch, but hey, wanna set the CPU cooler to 0% on SIV so it throttles utils shutdown? No problem with that.

I can hear what I *think* is the chipset fan, every now and then, if I really listen for it. Box is two feet away, side cover on, and it seems I can hear it *ramping* (up & down?) very softly--just loud enough to be slightly irritating, on the bare cusp of audio detection--when I can hear it at all, that is. But if my central AC is moving air quietly from a nearby floor vent, I pretty much can't hear it at all, and if I have my headphones on--fogetaboudit... (What pch fan?) As you can see, of the few issues I have (more on that in a second) with my x570 Master, this one is certainly the least bothersome or annoying.

So what "issues" do I have, then? Well, mainly this: not a single Aorus Master software utility actually works right now in my version of Win10 (see sig.) Even in the version of Win10 I had installed two months ago when I first ran the motherboard, I got into SIV once or twice before it stopped working--but that's about it. It's possible that the RGB app functions in line with expectations--but....I could care less about that. Ugh... SIV simply doesn't work at all--when I try and install and run it, it drops into a "trying to start EasyTune engine service" loop from which it never recovers. Have to TaskManage it closed to break the loop and then carefully uninstall it--this happens even though SIV has nothing to do with EasyTune and even if EasyTune is not installed! Go figure!--you tell me.

Which of course is always true since Easy Tune itself refuses to run, and also goes into the "Trying to start EasyTune Engine service" infinite loop--rinse and repeat. Running the apps as Administrator or/and with a variety of compatibility settings accomplishes nothing. (BTW, installing the required environment for the utilities first, the App Center, makes no difference at all, sorry to say. The utilities install but won't run.)

It would be nice if a couple of these utilities actually functioned like they are supposed to, I agree. Even though these motherboards have only been out a little over two months (time flies when we have fun, right?...) and it may be premature at this point to expect working utility software from third parties at this date, it would surely be nice if we could get a couple of these apps working until third parties can come to the rescue.

Being fair, even though these apps are worthless to me at present because they won't even run, let alone do their intended tasks, I have to confess that I really don't need any of them to operate my x570 Aorus Master.... None of us do. But it would surely be nice if the software worked, wouldn't it? I can agree with you 100% about that.