[agentesmith]

RTFM!

Inviato dal mio GM1913 utilizzando Tapatalk

 

[athkatla]

At the back side of the heatsink there is a tape, remove it so the ssd sticks to the heatsink. Then screw just the heatsink.

I think you removed the bolt from m/b.

Sent from my BLA-L29 using Tapatalk

 

[pschorr1123]

Thanks, but an explanation should be more helpful. Did you place only that screw at the end of the heatsink, or do you have also one on the end of the SSD?
And why the hell my screw of the heatsink has a bolt?

The tiny screw is to secure the m.2 drive to one of the posts at the end of the m.2 drive itself. The larger screw in pic above is for the Heat sink.

It sounds like perhaps the bolt came up along with the larger screw. You will have to separate them and re install

edit: can't type or spell

 

[RichterB]

The tiny screw is to secure the m.2 drive to one of the posts at the end of the m.2 drive itself. The larger screw in pic above is for the Heat sink.

It sounds like perhaps the bolt came up along with the larger screw. You will have to separate them and re install

edit: can't type or spell

Weird. I tried it, but it didn't work. It seems to be too much tiny for that holes.
Anyway, I think I should ask for an RMA. As far as I know, that bolt should be fixed to the metallic pin/support, or whatever you call it, numbered "110". Mine is detached, and there is no way to screw it again to the support 110, and it's not even possible to unscrew the support 110. I tried with tongs, but it is stuck.

Unlike the other support of the slot with not heatsink. That is pretty loose.

 

[pal]

you broke something. With screw which is in the motherboard box you screw down the m.2 With screw in the heat sink you screw down only the heat sink unless you m.2 device is that long. I cant even remove screw from the heatsink

 

[pschorr1123]

Weird. I tried it, but it didn't work. It seems to be too much tiny for that holes.
Anyway, I think I should ask for an RMA. As far as I know, that bolt should be fixed to the metallic pin/support, or whatever you call it, numbered "110". Mine is detached, and there is no way to screw it again to the support 110, and it's not even possible to unscrew the support 110. I tried with tongs, but it is stuck.

Unlike the other support of the slot with not heatsink. That is pretty loose.

There should be little stand offs that are packed in your motherboard box along with the tiny m.2 screw. The standoff goes in one of the holes to the right of the heat sink screw. Then the tiny screw is used to secure the m.2 drive to the top of the standoff.

Sorry I didn't mention the standoffs, I had forgot this board has them separate unlike my previous boards that were already attached to the board in the 80mm hole.

Just line up your m.2 drive to determine which hole the stand off goes in.

Page 31 in manual has illustrations

 

[MFarkha]

Hi all - is it normal that voltage goes from 1.425V to 1.325V under load with Vdroop at HIGH on the AORUS PRO w/3900X? Does VDROOP even work on this board? I have the system at 4400MHZ/4300MHZ @ 1.425 VCORE (I had to raise VCORE to keep the my load voltage to > 1.3V but I'd rather keep my idle voltage around 1.35-1.4, if possible. I could try TURBO vdroop but a drop of over .1V seems excessive.

 

[MFarkha]

Hi all - is it normal that voltage goes from 1.425V to 1.325V under load with Vdroop at HIGH on the AORUS PRO w/3900X? Does VDROOP even work on this board? I have the system at 4400MHZ/4300MHZ @ 1.45 VCORE (I had to raise VCORE to keep the my load voltage to > 1.3V but I'd rather keep my idle voltage around 1.35-1.4, if possible. I could try TURBO vdroop but a drop of over .1V seems excessive.

Ok I just changed to TURBO but the voltage deltas were the same in HWiNFO64 (1.425 no load --> 1.325 full load). Tried setting VDROOP to LOW and the system restarted once I put load on so atleast VDROOP is doing something.

Also, what is the most accurate tool for vcore? Getting different values depending on the program:

HWiNFO64
LLC = HIGH --> 1.425V no load --> 1.325 full load
LLC = TURBO --> 1.425 no load --> 1.325 full load

CPU-Z
LLC = HIGH --> 1.344V no load --> 1.308 full load
LLC = TURBO --> 1.344 no load -->1.344 full load

Voltage in Ryzen Master is set to 1.425V. So confused

 

[polygonhell]

Hi all - is it normal that voltage goes from 1.425V to 1.325V under load with Vdroop at HIGH on the AORUS PRO w/3900X? Does VDROOP even work on this board? I have the system at 4400MHZ/4300MHZ @ 1.425 VCORE (I had to raise VCORE to keep the my load voltage to > 1.3V but I'd rather keep my idle voltage around 1.35-1.4, if possible. I could try TURBO vdroop but a drop of over .1V seems excessive.

It's normal, Voltage can be upto 1.5V under light load/single CPU tests, it will drop into the 1.3V ish range when fully loaded.
I guess the idea is that when all the cores are working it's generating a lot more heat/consuming a lot more current, so the Voltage has to drop to keep things in a reasonable range.
At idle it should drop below 1V, though it tends to bounce around a lot as various windows background tasks do things.

Edit ignore the above I just realized you were probably overclocking with a fixed voltage.

 

[gabmzzn]

That's corrent.

That's an interesting finding, on my Master I disconnected the fan because so far the chipset doesn't go above 60c in silent mode even in a hot room, and on boot the chipset fan makes a stupid unnecessary amount of noise, so I was afraid of changing thermal pad for thermal paste based on what I searched on google, but now I'm curious, is your thermal paste anything special or just like any thermal paste for CPU/GPUs? I have Artic MX-2 lying around, so maybe changing the thermal pad for paste could decrease my chipset temps even further you say?

 

[chrismarshall3]

problem shutdown

Hi all,
@GBT-MatthewH

I am having mega issues and the support tickets are not responding.
I have read many posts similar to this but nothing has worked.


x570 Aorus Elite WIFI
AMD Ryzen 3900X
G.Skill Ripjaws V F4-3200C16D-32GVK 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4
Corsair rm850x Gold PSU
Crucial 1TB m.2 SSD
Gigabyte RTX 2080 Super 8GB

Notes:
- Ram is in A2 and B2 (have not tried 1 stick)
- Bios updated to F3b (latest WIFI version) and tried both factory bios and F2.

So everything works fine until you shutdown the computer.
After powering on again, the BIOS wont post or wont display.
After 3-4 restarts it eventually POSTs and often resets the bios settings.

THINGS I HAVE TRIED -
- Tried with factory default settings. Same thing happens on default RAM.
- Tried XMP on and XMP off.
- Tried turning off power, taking out battery and leaving for a few minutes.
- Tried all BIOS from www.gigabyte.com/au/Motherboard/X570-AORUS-ELITE-WIFI-rev-10/support#support-dl-bios.
- Tried adding 1.35v manually to RAM and 1.2v to SOC.
- Tried turning Erp on and off.
- Tried turning off Fast Boot in Windows and in Bios.
- Tried turning off CMS on bios.
- Tried uninstalling RGB Fusion and turning off LED in bios (have read that worked for someone).


At this point I am thinking of just returning the board and getting a different brand.
Anyone else got an idea I can try? This is a computer for a client so its really driving me nuts.
So glad I never personally upgraded to Ryzen.

 

[chrismarshall3]

Post after shutdown issues

Hi all,

I am having mega issues and the support tickets are not responding.
I have read many posts similar to this but nothing has worked.


x570 Aorus Elite WIFI
AMD Ryzen 3900X
G.Skill Ripjaws V F4-3200C16D-32GVK 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4
Corsair rm850x Gold PSU
Crucial 1TB m.2 SSD
Gigabyte RTX 2080 Super 8GB

Notes:
- Ram is in A2 and B2 (have not tried 1 stick)
- Bios updated to F3b (latest WIFI version) and tried both factory bios and F2.

So everything works fine until you shutdown the computer.
After powering on again, the BIOS wont post or wont display.
After 3-4 restarts it eventually POSTs and often resets the bios settings.

THINGS I HAVE TRIED -
- Tried with factory default settings. Same thing happens on default RAM.
- Tried XMP on and XMP off.
- Tried turning off power, taking out battery and leaving for a few minutes.
- Tried all BIOS from www.gigabyte.com/au/Motherboard/X570-AORUS-ELITE-WIFI-rev-10/support#support-dl-bios.
- Tried adding 1.35v manually to RAM and 1.2v to SOC.
- Tried turning Erp on and off.
- Tried turning off Fast Boot in Windows and in Bios.
- Tried turning off CMS on bios.
- Tried uninstalling RGB Fusion and turning off LED in bios (have read that worked for someone).


At this point I am thinking of just returning the board and getting a different brand.
Anyone else got an idea I can try? This is a computer for a client so its really driving me nuts.
So glad I never personally upgraded to Ryzen.

 

[Moparman]

Anyone see this ? https://www.pcgamer.com/gigabyte-hit-a-43ghz-all-core-overclock-on-amds-unreleased-ryzen-9-3950x/

 

[RaXelliX]

That's an interesting finding, on my Master I disconnected the fan because so far the chipset doesn't go above 60c in silent mode even in a hot room, and on boot the chipset fan makes a stupid unnecessary amount of noise, so I was afraid of changing thermal pad for thermal paste based on what I searched on google, but now I'm curious, is your thermal paste anything special or just like any thermal paste for CPU/GPUs? I have Artic MX-2 lying around, so maybe changing the thermal pad for paste could decrease my chipset temps even further you say?

I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. It's one of the top, non-conductive pastes. But MX-2 would be ok too.

I don't have anything good to say about the thermal pad that was there before. It seemed like it was too stiff and thick and one spot was stuck on the chipset die so i had to scrape it off carefully. After replacing the pad with the paste it seems the heatsink itself got hotter to the touch. And it would make sense if the heat transfer actually got better: lower chipset temps, hotter heatsink due to better conductivity.

As long as the paste is non conductive it should net a positive result. Granted i have a sample size of 1 to base this on. As far as how much to put then i would say a small rice/pea drop sized is enough to cover the die.

 

[rastaviper]

I have booting problems after updating my ELITE at the Fb bios.
First loaded the default settings, but I keep getting the 3 beeps and no proper boot. No way I could also load and boot with one of my standard saved Profiles. Nothing works.
At some point I managed to stop getting the 3 beeps, but now all I get is a black screen with one white divider at the top left side and no windows.

What is happening? Bad flash? Incompatibility of the new BIOS with my hardware (like my G.skill for example) ?

 

[gabmzzn]

I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. It's one of the top, non-conductive pastes. But MX-2 would be ok too.

I don't have anything good to say about the thermal pad that was there before. It seemed like it was too stiff and thick and one spot was stuck on the chipset die so i had to scrape it off carefully. After replacing the pad with the paste it seems the heatsink itself got hotter to the touch. And it would make sense if the heat transfer actually got better: lower chipset temps, hotter heatsink due to better conductivity.

As long as the paste is non conductive it should net a positive result. Granted i have a sample size of 1 to base this on. As far as how much to put then i would say a small rice/pea drop sized is enough to cover the die.

Hey, interesting, I think I will try it in the coming days, also, I had the exact same issue with the thermal stuck in the die, it broke in the center like if was something quite stiff, I immediately started cursing Gigabyte for not having a fool-proof stupid option like any of the other manufacturers (except Asus) of giving the user the liberty of controlling the chipset fan as whatever they want, but whatever, luckily I have a nice case with 2 big intake fans that seems to make the decent job of keeping the flow cool and the chipset at 60c as much, with a ambient temperature inside the case of 45c, so basically now we have a Master mobo with pretty much the unique feature of the Xtreme without extra cost rofl, which makes me think, that that's maybe the reason Gigabyte refuses to implement manual control of the fan, maybe they are afraid that the Xtreme could became meaningless, in that specific matter, if the other motherboards have such feature, which I consider it an insult as a not really cheap Master motherboard owner, but here we are, with the chipset 100% passively cooled now lol.

 

[mongoled]

I have booting problems after updating my ELITE at the Fb bios.
First loaded the default settings, but I keep getting the 3 beeps and no proper boot. No way I could also load and boot with one of my standard saved Profiles. Nothing works.
At some point I managed to stop getting the 3 beeps, but now all I get is a black screen with one white divider at the top left side and no windows.

What is happening? Bad flash? Incompatibility of the new BIOS with my hardware (like my G.skill for example) ?

My understanding is that the 3 beeps are an indication of memory settings that the BIOS does not like.

Prior to updating to ABBA, I would sometimes only get one beep if memory settings were not OK, then I would have to clear the BIOS.

Now with ABBA, we get the three beeps, on my MSI it will reboot after the 3 beeps, give out another single beep, then after a minute or so I will get a message asking to press F1 as memory settings are not OK.

If the memory settings are too aggressive then i also get three beeps, then a non posting machine, so I have to clear the BIOS also....

In general ABBA seems to have lowered memory overclock capability for my motherboard, however, im pretty sure this has something to do with the IF frequency and it looks like some internal timings have been changed by AMD in the new agesa.

Im currently trying to find work around to this problem but have not found anything so far.

For your setup I would first drop to 3700/1850 and see if stability is restored, if it is then I am 80% sure its something to do with the IF frequency.

My defaults for VDDP/VDDG on previous BIOS were 0.9002/1.0976v on the new abba BIOS they are 1.0979/1.1481v.

vSOC voltage is the same, I will be playing with VDDP/VDDG to see if I can stabalise the IF frequency.....

 

[rastaviper]

My understanding is that the 3 beeps are an indication of memory settings that the BIOS does not like.

Prior to updating to ABBA, I would sometimes only get one beep if memory settings were not OK, then I would have to clear the BIOS.

Now with ABBA, we get the three beeps, on my MSI it will reboot after the 3 beeps, give out another single beep, then after a minute or so I will get a message asking to press F1 as memory settings are not OK.

If the memory settings are too aggressive then i also get three beeps, then a non posting machine, so I have to clear the BIOS also....

In general ABBA seems to have lowered memory overclock capability for my motherboard, however, im pretty sure this has something to do with the IF frequency and it looks like some internal timings have been changed by AMD in the new agesa.

Im currently trying to find work around to this problem but have not found anything so far.

For your setup I would first drop to 3700/1850 and see if stability is restored, if it is then I am 80% sure its something to do with the IF frequency.

My defaults for VDDP/VDDG on previous BIOS were 0.9002/1.0976v on the new abba BIOS they are 1.0979/1.1481v.

vSOC voltage is the same, I will be playing with VDDP/VDDG to see if I can stabalise the IF frequency.....

I made tests with ram freq at 1800, VDDG at 950, VDDP at 900 and still nothing.
Cpu freq is AUTO, 1,34v
Ram is 16-16-15, 1.39v

What about this black screen I get with the white character inside? I stopped getting the 3 beeps, but now I have this thing happening.

 

[mongoled]

I made tests with ram freq at 1800, VDDG at 950, VDDP at 900 and still nothing.
Cpu freq is AUTO, 1,34v
Ram is 16-16-15, 1.39v

What about this black screen I get with the white character inside? I stopped getting the 3 beeps, but now I have this thing happening.

I dont have your motherboard so cant be sure, but that sound like graphics corruption whose cause can be memory/IF issues....

Look at this post, maybe relative for your motherboard

https://www.overclock.net/forum/28110396-post11.html

 

[rastaviper]

But is very strange that loading the Optimised Defaults also doesn't help with these problems.
Shouldn't this option put all ram and cpu settings to default/stock so any hardware combination to work without issues?