Overclock.net banner
6921 - 6940 of 17045 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
I'd give a try to F12a; I used F11 for quite a lot and at least for me it's more reliable.

... snip ...

Best way to test stability is gaming with some medium to high workload; something too heavy will not trigger that easy instability.
I'll probably wait until F12 official for now. I tried raising PM_* voltages but no change, WHEA error will still come after some undetermined amount of time. Strangely I did notice that power plan seems to impact this... if I use a more aggressive plan like 1usmus, then it seems much less likely to happen.

My suspicion is that there is some power saving going on when system is idle that triggers WHEA error... the one thing I haven't tried is the option in the CBS -> XFR menu that disables the SOC from doing any power saving... I may try that later this weekend.

Otherwise RAM tests all pass, I can run any type of benchmark/games for 10+ hours and never see an issue... as long as I don't let system sit in Windows idle for extended amount of time. Ex. yesterday I played Doom Eternal for like 5-6 hours... exit game, go to other room and come back and WHEA error has triggered while sitting at Desktop.

None of this occurs if I just lower FCLK to 1867.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
3900X recently installed--sudden cold-boot failure...!.

OK, this post I'll keep brief and just highlight the main events...it may help someone with this problem, hopefully!


Last week I bought a 3900X to replace my 3600X, from AMZN, because of an $80 reduction in the pricing (down to $419). As you know, the 3900X comes standard with the Wraith Prism, a cooler with three separate LEDs onboard--the importance of which I'll get to below. (BTW, the Prism is far better than the Spire that came with the 3600X--much quieter and cools better, etc. I was surprised at the major difference!)

*Immediately upon installation, the system ran like a top for the remainder of the day--no troubles at all.

*However, the next morning at the initial cold-boot of the day (comp is on from ~9:00 am-11:00 pm, daily, including 2-4 hours of gaming daily), suddenly, first time ever, I got a black screen with large-font white text denoting an error condition described as being "unable to find a boot drive", basically. It's the exact message you'd see if your boot-drive partition suddenly failed! IE, it's something you don't want to see, ever. Subsequent three-finger salute reboots and/or hardware resets brought up the very same error message and result.

*Making a long story much shorter, it turned out not to have anything to do with the boot drive! Thankfully. After a lot of research/time spent, it seemed that whatever the cause, that only on cold boots, the CMOS battery was being drained, and what was happening was that my system was booting with the default bios settings instead of the ones I'd saved, because the saved bios settings were dumped on cold boot--by the CMOS battery being discharged enough--during a cold boot--to cause that situation. My default bios settings called for CSM Enabled to support a Win10 legacy-formatted Win10 installation, but my Win10 boot drive was formatted and installed for UEFI, secure-boot, and with CSM Disabled! Which explains the no-boot drive error message neatly.

*Solution: I started thinking about what was different between the 3900X Wraith Prism install and the former 3600X Wraith Spire installation. The one clear difference that might possibly have affected the system electrically on cold boot was that the 3900X Wraith Prism cooler ships with all three LEDs on the cooler, the logo, the rim, and fan LEDs, turned ON by default. In order to turn them off you use the included USB connector, and download the appropriate control software from Cooler Master and run it to configure the cooler LEDs, which I hadn't bothered to do yet, of course, because I'd never had to solve a cold boot problem like this one! After turning off all three LEDs on the cooler, it's been four days now with four cold boots running as expected and the problem has completely disappeared! System is booting just like it did in cold boots with the LED-less Wraith Spire and the 3600X! Strange and bizarre!...;)

I rank this one as probably the strangest problem I've run across--linking the CPU cooler to a cold-boot failure problem has certainly not occurred to me before--except maybe in the odd case of a CPU cooler improperly forced on, etc. Although I am in no hurry to try it, I feel sure that if I tested my theory and turned the LEDs back on (I am not an LED person btw) that the cold boots would begin failing again, in the same way. Of course, warm boots, when the system always has time to recharge the battery to the extent required, present no problem with the LED's all ON.

I only wish I could have solved this one in the time it takes to read this post!...;) (BTW, the 3900X is a fantastic CPU, imo! It's literally 2x as fast--sometimes a bit more--than what I saw with the 3600X--the linear performance improvement is very nice and it's real! If you are looking for a cpu that is only slightly slower in most situations than a 3950X, but costs ~half as much--(@ $418)--the 3900X is the ticket!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
794 Posts
OK, this post I'll keep brief and just highlight the main events...it may help someone with this problem, hopefully!


Last week I bought a 3900X to replace my 3600X, from AMZN, because of an $80 reduction in the pricing (down to $419). As you know, the 3900X comes standard with the Wraith Prism, a cooler with three separate LEDs onboard--the importance of which I'll get to below. (BTW, the Prism is far better than the Spire that came with the 3600X--much quieter and cools better, etc. I was surprised at the major difference!)

*Immediately upon installation, the system ran like a top for the remainder of the day--no troubles at all.

*However, the next morning at the initial cold-boot of the day (comp is on from ~9:00 am-11:00 pm, daily, including 2-4 hours of gaming daily), suddenly, first time ever, I got a black screen with large-font white text denoting an error condition described as being "unable to find a boot drive", basically. It's the exact message you'd see if your boot-drive partition suddenly failed! IE, it's something you don't want to see, ever. Subsequent three-finger salute reboots and/or hardware resets brought up the very same error message and result.

*Making a long story much shorter, it turned out not to have anything to do with the boot drive! Thankfully. After a lot of research/time spent, it seemed that whatever the cause, that only on cold boots, the CMOS battery was being drained, and what was happening was that my system was booting with the default bios settings instead of the ones I'd saved, because the saved bios settings were dumped on cold boot--by the CMOS battery being discharged enough--during a cold boot--to cause that situation. My default bios settings called for CSM Enabled to support a Win10 legacy-formatted Win10 installation, but my Win10 boot drive was formatted and installed for UEFI, secure-boot, and with CSM Disabled! Which explains the no-boot drive error message neatly.

*Solution: I started thinking about what was different between the 3900X Wraith Prism install and the former 3600X Wraith Spire installation. The one clear difference that might possibly have affected the system electrically on cold boot was that the 3900X Wraith Prism cooler ships with all three LEDs on the cooler, the logo, the rim, and fan LEDs, turned ON by default. In order to turn them off you use the included USB connector, and download the appropriate control software from Cooler Master and run it to configure the cooler LEDs, which I hadn't bothered to do yet, of course, because I'd never had to solve a cold boot problem like this one! After turning off all three LEDs on the cooler, it's been four days now with four cold boots running as expected and the problem has completely disappeared! System is booting just like it did in cold boots with the LED-less Wraith Spire and the 3600X! Strange and bizarre!...;)

I rank this one as probably the strangest problem I've run across--linking the CPU cooler to a cold-boot failure problem has certainly not occurred to me before--except maybe in the odd case of a CPU cooler improperly forced on, etc. Although I am in no hurry to try it, I feel sure that if I tested my theory and turned the LEDs back on (I am not an LED person btw) that the cold boots would begin failing again, in the same way. Of course, warm boots, when the system always has time to recharge the battery to the extent required, present no problem with the LED's all ON.

I only wish I could have solved this one in the time it takes to read this post!...;) (BTW, the 3900X is a fantastic CPU, imo! It's literally 2x as fast--sometimes a bit more--than what I saw with the 3600X--the linear performance improvement is very nice and it's real! If you are looking for a cpu that is only slightly slower in most situations than a 3950X, but costs ~half as much--(@ $418)--the 3900X is the ticket!)
Very interesting, I'm curious would enabling ERP help the situation?

I've had my eye on that 3900X myself since the price has dropped. Do you notice it being noticeably hotter than your 3600 since it has a 105 watt TDP?

Have fun benching your 3900X :)
 

·
Old crazy guy
Joined
·
3,327 Posts
OK, this post I'll keep brief and just highlight the main events...it may help someone with this problem, hopefully!

...

*Solution: I started thinking about what was different between the 3900X Wraith Prism install and the former 3600X Wraith Spire installation. The one clear difference that might possibly have affected the system electrically on cold boot was that the 3900X Wraith Prism cooler ships with all three LEDs on the cooler, the logo, the rim, and fan LEDs, turned ON by default. In order to turn them off you use the included USB connector, and download the appropriate control software from Cooler Master and run it to configure the cooler LEDs, which I hadn't bothered to do yet, of course, because I'd never had to solve a cold boot problem like this one! After turning off all three LEDs on the cooler, it's been four days now with four cold boots running as expected and the problem has completely disappeared! System is booting just like it did in cold boots with the LED-less Wraith Spire and the 3600X! Strange and bizarre!...;)

...
So the solution was to keep the USB cable for the LEDs plugged in on the mainboard but disable them via software?
What about the RGB cable instead of the USB? Does it trigger too the cold boot issue?
 

·
Old crazy guy
Joined
·
3,327 Posts
YES indeed, maybe because it has an extra 6 cores bolted into it's design. Making it two 3600s attached to a single cpu socket ; )
He probably knows very well about the double core count :D
Guess the question would be relative to the upgraded cooler and the double core count, how well heat is managed versus the 3600 with the older cooler.
 

·
AMD OVERLOCKER
Joined
·
739 Posts
I search for the F12A bios for the x570 Elite.
Can't find older bioses at the tt forum.
Can someone help?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
794 Posts
YES indeed, maybe because it has an extra 6 cores bolted into it's design. Making it two 3600s attached to a single cpu socket ; )
Yeah I know the core count, I was just curious if he noticed it running much hotter vs his 3600 even though they have different coolers. I have read some people complaining about the Wraith Prism being worthless for the 3900x so I was wondering if it ran in the mid 80s while gaming or something. I tend not to make my thoughts clear when put to written form so I apologize for not being more concise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Very interesting, I'm curious would enabling ERP help the situation?

I've had my eye on that 3900X myself since the price has dropped. Do you notice it being noticeably hotter than your 3600 since it has a 105 watt TDP?

Have fun benching your 3900X :)

Not much difference in temps--but then again the Prism cooler is much better...;) It's fun--glad I bought it! Idles in the 35C-45C zone, under load, usually around 65C-70C Max.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Very interesting, I'm curious would enabling ERP help the situation?



I've had my eye on that 3900X myself since the price has dropped. Do you notice it being noticeably hotter than your 3600 since it has a 105 watt TDP?



Have fun benching your 3900X :)
Same temps if you use the rad (TDP) they ask you to use...
65w for 3600
105w for 3900x
If you use an AIO you'll have way more perfs

Envoyé de mon POCO F1 en utilisant Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
So the solution was to keep the USB cable for the LEDs plugged in on the mainboard but disable them via software?
What about the RGB cable instead of the USB? Does it trigger too the cold boot issue?

I only had to plug in the USB cable from the cooler in order to turn off the three LED's, using the Cooler Master software. I would imagine that if I removed the USB cable that they would stay off, just as they stayed on before I used the cable & software to turn them off. I probably should simply unplug the cable since I'm not going to turn them on...;) The RGB cable only is required to sync the cooler RGB with the the System Fusion RGB, but I won't plug it in because I don't run Fusion or any other RGB lighting.


The cold boot came into play because only at that time did the Prism LED's suck up enough power from the CMOS battery to cause the saved bios settings to get dumped with the default bios settings used instead--at least, that's the working theory...;) Anyway--it works, and I'm still cold-booting without a hitch, I'm glad to say...;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
794 Posts
I only had to plug in the USB cable from the cooler in order to turn off the three LED's, using the Cooler Master software. I would imagine that if I removed the USB cable that they would stay off, just as they stayed on before I used the cable & software to turn them off. I probably should simply unplug the cable since I'm not going to turn them on...;) The RGB cable only is required to sync the cooler RGB with the the System Fusion RGB, but I won't plug it in because I don't run Fusion or any other RGB lighting.


The cold boot came into play because only at that time did the Prism LED's suck up enough power from the CMOS battery to cause the saved bios settings to get dumped with the default bios settings used instead--at least, that's the working theory...;) Anyway--it works, and I'm still cold-booting without a hitch, I'm glad to say...;)
I wonder if the couple other users in this thread that reported having a dead cmos battery that was causing their boot issues was really down to the cooler leds sucking down power when system is off.

Very weird issue to say the least. Do you think enabling the ERP setting would help at all?
 

·
Old crazy guy
Joined
·
3,327 Posts
I wonder if the couple other users in this thread that reported having a dead cmos battery that was causing their boot issues was really down to the cooler leds sucking down power when system is off.

Very weird issue to say the least. Do you think enabling the ERP setting would help at all?
It's very interesting because I would have expected a battery drain from the internal RGB header... but the USB?
The problem could be not only limited to the LEDs but possibly to anything connected inside or outside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
I search for the F12A bios for the x570 Elite.
Can't find older bioses at the tt forum.
Can someone help?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

I don't recall seeing a F12a. I've got F12b and F12c?
 

·
- Insanity Beckons -
Joined
·
4,817 Posts
Not much difference in temps--but then again the Prism cooler is much better...;) It's fun--glad I bought it! Idles in the 35C-45C zone, under load, usually around 65C-70C Max.

Excellent core temps :thumb: .

This Prism Cooler has certainly worked for you here because it has far better temps than my 3800x with an old Thermalright HR-02 setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
794 Posts
I don't recall seeing a F12a. I've got F12b and F12c?
I looked in my DL folder and have a f12a that I named beta. It was downloaded 1-20-2020 and I don't recall where it came from but I usually name the folder to remind me of origin (tt, beta, or official), so I believe it may be one of the last bios version GB Matt hooked us up with. Perhaps some one else can confirm

I only have the Master version though, so I wouldn't be able to hook you up with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
I only had to plug in the USB cable from the cooler in order to turn off the three LED's, using the Cooler Master software. I would imagine that if I removed the USB cable that they would stay off, just as they stayed on before I used the cable & software to turn them off. I probably should simply unplug the cable since I'm not going to turn them on...;) The RGB cable only is required to sync the cooler RGB with the the System Fusion RGB, but I won't plug it in because I don't run Fusion or any other RGB lighting.


The cold boot came into play because only at that time did the Prism LED's suck up enough power from the CMOS battery to cause the saved bios settings to get dumped with the default bios settings used instead--at least, that's the working theory...;) Anyway--it works, and I'm still cold-booting without a hitch, I'm glad to say...;)
I always tought RGB was powered from the PSU when the motherboard is swtched off (aka idle power), not the cmos battery, regardless if it's usb powered or not. To me, it's a nonsense if GB designed it this way. Also, cmos battery is 3v, rgb is how much? 5v?

I'm shocked really if that's the real issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
I always tought RGB was powered from the PSU when the motherboard is swtched off (aka idle power), not the cmos battery, regardless if it's usb powered or not. To me, it's a nonsense if GB designed it this way. Also, cmos battery is 3v, rgb is how much? 5v?



I'm shocked really if that's the real issue.
If indeed this is the issue then it's a Gigabyte design flaw in the power delivery.
Nothing and i mean nothing has anything to do with the battery circuit except the cmos itself.
I suspect a flaw in the ground of the motherboard but im sceptical of this really.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
I looked in my DL folder and have a f12a that I named beta. It was downloaded 1-20-2020 and I don't recall where it came from but I usually name the folder to remind me of origin (tt, beta, or official), so I believe it may be one of the last bios version GB Matt hooked us up with. Perhaps some one else can confirm

I only have the Master version though, so I wouldn't be able to hook you up with it.
F12A was on TT forums at some point, but the links have been removed.
 

·
AMD OVERLOCKER
Joined
·
739 Posts
I don't recall seeing a F12a. I've got F12b and F12c?
Thanks.
I thought I have seen it somewhere else.

Anyway flashed F12f which is the latest official.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
 
6921 - 6940 of 17045 Posts
Top