Can you expand on your reasoning here, I just bought a new auros master 3600 and a 2080ti. From what ive gathered from just a bit of quick research is the 2080ti peaks at around 4.5a on the 12v rail. But doing ohms law at say 300w/12v=45a. I bought a seasonic gold focus+ 650 and everything I read on this forums states that 650w is plenty for single card systems. Can you show anything that backs up your min current number your stating, not questioning you really just wondering where you are getting your numbers from Im a sparky and want to read the data myself and decide if I made the right choice as my 12v rail is rated at 648 watts at 42a.
being the resident power guy does this make any sense?
I said this because years ago, when 12v rails were nowhere near as critical and demanding as they are now--I actually read the labels on PSUs whose wattage numbers on the 12v rail were abysmal--sometimes 25a on the 12v rail--when maybe, even way back then, they should have been at least 35a. So, it may not happen as much today, and I should hope it doesn't--except I would be leery of cheap, no-name PSUs--but that's just me...
There's a reason that a decent modular PSU, such as the Corsair series, put 62a 12v rails on their 750W PSUs--72a on their 850W, etc. The point here is that it's always better to have more amperage on the 12v rail in particular, imo, than you think you need--for instance, right now my CPU is a 3600X--next year I will likely move into CPU demanding a lot more 12v power--and I'm already set in the PSU department. So you want a PSU you can grow with--so that you won't have to change that out, too, when you upgrade your hardware. Far too many people pretend that the PSU essentially doesn't really matter that much--and they have the problems you would expect, but usually blame it erroneously on something else--because they've already told themselves that their bargain-basement PSU should be "sufficient." But it isn't--so they chase their tails....
I've read many a PSU review of cheap no-name knock-off PSU's which in testing did not live up to the wattage labels printed on them. So, my advice for what it's worth is:
1) Buy a quality, well-reviewed PSU with a nice long warranty (at least three years)
2) Buy more amperage than you need on the 12v rail(s)
3) Check the efficiency ratings, too, which are important and not to be ignored, imo.
...and you can probably rule your PSU out
as a problem source, should you have any problems. Just my opinion, of course--and I'm not saying that your present PSU is a "cheap no name PSU," either...
Just thought I would mention the amperage readings--there's a reason the manufacturers print those on their PSUs, just like the wattage. But, again, a wattage label is no guarantee of anything--hence the need to buy a decent PSU that has been well-reviewed, has a good reputation and a decently long warranty. Notice that I am not recommending you buy these 1000-W rated monsters, etc.--far too many people spend the $$$ on those an never use 60% of the output!