[funks]

ERP enabled?

Had ERP enabled, turned it off and will see if it happens again. If I don't enable ERP - the mobo is still supplying power to the mouse (Logitech G502 Hero - Mouse's LED is flashing) even though the machine is shutdown (not sleeping).

 

[Roboionator]

hi i have master (last bios) and 3900x stock, ram patriot stock 2133mhz and 1080ti...the pc behaves strangely, just freezes, sound from gpu the sound skips,...what a solution to where to start, I'm slowly losing patience

 

[Ironcobra]

The overall wattage number isn't as important as the amperage numbers printed on the PSU. With these high-performance boards and cpus, plus GPUs, of course, I wouldn't feel comfortable with less than ~62a on the 12v rail--and preferably a single 12v rail. Usually, with a quality PSU, that's going to equate to ~750W rating, but not always, which is why you need to check--a 600W PSU with a 12v rail amperage rating of 40a, for instance, would certainly give you some problems, I should think. Just advice to check the amperage on the 12v rail (single rail is better than a dual-rail, imo) and go with 62a or higher. My 850W HX-850 Corsair does 72a on the 12v rail--which has a switch which I've configured to a single 12v rail. The amperage ratings (especially on the 12v rail) are actually more important than the overall PSU Wattage numbers.

Can you expand on your reasoning here, I just bought a new auros master 3600 and a 2080ti. From what ive gathered from just a bit of quick research is the 2080ti peaks at around 4.5a on the 12v rail. But doing ohms law at say 300w/12v=45a. I bought a seasonic gold focus+ 650 and everything I read on this forums states that 650w is plenty for single card systems. Can you show anything that backs up your min current number your stating, not questioning you really just wondering where you are getting your numbers from Im a sparky and want to read the data myself and decide if I made the right choice as my 12v rail is rated at 648 watts at 42a.

@AlphaC being the resident power guy does this make any sense?

 

[henson0115]

Can you expand on your reasoning here, I just bought a new auros master 3600 and a 2080ti. From what ive gathered from just a bit of quick research is the 2080ti peaks at around 4.5a on the 12v rail. But doing ohms law at say 300w/12v=45a. I bought a seasonic gold focus+ 650 and everything I read on this forums states that 650w is plenty for single card systems. Can you show anything that backs up your min current number your stating, not questioning you really just wondering where you are getting your numbers from Im a sparky and want to read the data myself and decide if I made the right choice as my 12v rail is rated at 648 watts at 42a.

@AlphaC being the resident power guy does this make any sense?

volts times amps gives total watts. higher amps means nothing unless you have components that pull more than your rated amps, so whilst he is correct the amps do matter, not so much in the way hes saying it. you cant have a 600watt psu be 72amps for example. quality of the components used in the psu matters most of all ofc. - its not possible to have a 40amp rail in a 600watt psu, as this would only be 480 watts for example.
i think what he actually means is you are better off having the amps on a single rail rather than a dual rail. as a 42a single rail is not a true 600w psu.

 

[Incindium]

I think the Master is a very nice mobo--likely the best I've ever owned--and I've been buying them for 30+ years... Yea--like it fine. No problems thus far, but I should qualify that with I never allow my desktops to sleep, but that's something with a lot of variables besides just the mobo bios--but some folks with an Aorus x570 mboard say they have problem with sleep/hibernation. OK, don't use RGB software--don't do Christmas trees until Christmas.... But, none of the GB "application software" works for me--none of it. Win10x64, v1903, build 10014. Though I do see they've put out a newer version of their RGB software, so if that's important to you you may be in luck on that score. But the rest of it? Ah, you don't need it... It's all totally superfluous, aside from the fact that none of it works... GB really needs to update it's utilities for no other reason than to enhance their reputation--which has grown enormously in 2019 with their x570 boards. I think a good rep is earned by them and deserved for this Master--take it out of the box and you know it's a work of art... I mean that, seriously. Nice mboard!

You have to install the Aorus App Center for any of their utilities to function. Installing them on their own without App Center installed doesn't work. Ran into the same issue and was confused originally. So if you've installed any of them standalone I'd uninstall them first, then install App Center and the install the individual apps you want

 

[Billy McDowell]

Does anyone know if the limitations cap limit that was originally on the pcie gen 3 boards is on the x570 boards? So what I am really asking is, this the nvme samsung 970 read write is about a 3500r/3200w normally when someone would raid 0 that you would be stuck at a 4000/4000 limit. Now that we have gen 4 increased bandwidth for the lanes would doing a raid 0 give you a higher number then the 4000/4000? I essentially have extra 970's i can put into here on my m.2 2nd & 3rd slot. I am more curious to see just exactly how much more bandwidth could pushed out of the raid 0 from the gen 4 raid 0 i did have on here initially.

 

[PatrickE]

Can you expand on your reasoning here, I just bought a new auros master 3600 and a 2080ti. From what ive gathered from just a bit of quick research is the 2080ti peaks at around 4.5a on the 12v rail. But doing ohms law at say 300w/12v=45a. I bought a seasonic gold focus+ 650 and everything I read on this forums states that 650w is plenty for single card systems. Can you show anything that backs up your min current number your stating, not questioning you really just wondering where you are getting your numbers from Im a sparky and want to read the data myself and decide if I made the right choice as my 12v rail is rated at 648 watts at 42a.

@AlphaC being the resident power guy does this make any sense?

The PSU you picked is going to work great for your system. PSU's are typically most efficient at 50% load, and that's were it will be with your CPU/GPU combo.

 

[cimirocks]

I see there is a new BIOS for the X570 I, but none of the 4 regions allow me to do download the file... anyone can download the zip?

https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/X570-I-AORUS-PRO-WIFI-rev-10/support#support-dl-bios

 

[cimirocks]

I see there is a new BIOS for the X570 I, but none of the 4 regions allow me to do download the file... anyone can download the zip?

https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/X570-I-AORUS-PRO-WIFI-rev-10/support#support-dl-bios

Maybe @GBT-MatthewH can help Thanks!

 

[AlphaC]

Can you expand on your reasoning here, I just bought a new auros master 3600 and a 2080ti. From what ive gathered from just a bit of quick research is the 2080ti peaks at around 4.5a on the 12v rail. But doing ohms law at say 300w/12v=45a. I bought a seasonic gold focus+ 650 and everything I read on this forums states that 650w is plenty for single card systems. Can you show anything that backs up your min current number your stating, not questioning you really just wondering where you are getting your numbers from Im a sparky and want to read the data myself and decide if I made the right choice as my 12v rail is rated at 648 watts at 42a.

@AlphaC being the resident power guy does this make any sense?

That doesn't look right since if your 2080 Ti has 4.5A on the 12V rail it would be an order of magnitude lower than what it should be limited to.

Depending on how overclocked your 2080 Ti is it can have ~328-380W power limit (roughly 27A-30A).
https://www.igorslab.media/warum-di...ehlungen-nicht-die-beste-idee-ist-igorslab/2/

The Ryzen 5 3600 isn't going to draw much more than 88W out of the box due to power limit and the Ryzen 5 3600X is limited as well (around 120W).
https://www.igorslab.media/drei-x57...erdrive-pbo-und-unterschiedliche-performance/

Total wattage on +12V is ~500W or roughly 41A.


edit: by the way Seasonic's Focus Plus Gold 650W PSU has 54A on the +12V and their 550W version has 45A.

 

[Dephcon]

I get that the RGB software is obviously terrible, but why for the love of god are the colour settings not saved to the hardware consistently? I just want to install the software, set the damn colour, remove the software and go on with my life. on reboot some/all of the colours revert back to Aorus Orange or "Rainbow Puke".

Please implement basic RGB control in the BIOS, clearly the developers working on BIOS are more competent than the App devs.


Also just a note for others, I am also experiencing issues with some fan headers not spinning up at all. Didn't seem to have any problems until I installed/removed the SmartFan App. Issue with Noctua F12, A14 and some stock 120/140 Fractal design fans (all PWM). I'll have to dig a bit deeper and try setting them to fullspeed or something in bios and do a couple reboots/cmos resets.

 

[Waltc]

Can you expand on your reasoning here, I just bought a new auros master 3600 and a 2080ti. From what ive gathered from just a bit of quick research is the 2080ti peaks at around 4.5a on the 12v rail. But doing ohms law at say 300w/12v=45a. I bought a seasonic gold focus+ 650 and everything I read on this forums states that 650w is plenty for single card systems. Can you show anything that backs up your min current number your stating, not questioning you really just wondering where you are getting your numbers from Im a sparky and want to read the data myself and decide if I made the right choice as my 12v rail is rated at 648 watts at 42a.

@AlphaC being the resident power guy does this make any sense?

I said this because years ago, when 12v rails were nowhere near as critical and demanding as they are now--I actually read the labels on PSUs whose wattage numbers on the 12v rail were abysmal--sometimes 25a on the 12v rail--when maybe, even way back then, they should have been at least 35a. So, it may not happen as much today, and I should hope it doesn't--except I would be leery of cheap, no-name PSUs--but that's just me... There's a reason that a decent modular PSU, such as the Corsair series, put 62a 12v rails on their 750W PSUs--72a on their 850W, etc. The point here is that it's always better to have more amperage on the 12v rail in particular, imo, than you think you need--for instance, right now my CPU is a 3600X--next year I will likely move into CPU demanding a lot more 12v power--and I'm already set in the PSU department. So you want a PSU you can grow with--so that you won't have to change that out, too, when you upgrade your hardware. Far too many people pretend that the PSU essentially doesn't really matter that much--and they have the problems you would expect, but usually blame it erroneously on something else--because they've already told themselves that their bargain-basement PSU should be "sufficient." But it isn't--so they chase their tails.... I've read many a PSU review of cheap no-name knock-off PSU's which in testing did not live up to the wattage labels printed on them. So, my advice for what it's worth is:


1) Buy a quality, well-reviewed PSU with a nice long warranty (at least three years)

2) Buy more amperage than you need on the 12v rail(s)


3) Check the efficiency ratings, too, which are important and not to be ignored, imo.



...and you can probably rule your PSU out as a problem source, should you have any problems. Just my opinion, of course--and I'm not saying that your present PSU is a "cheap no name PSU," either... Just thought I would mention the amperage readings--there's a reason the manufacturers print those on their PSUs, just like the wattage. But, again, a wattage label is no guarantee of anything--hence the need to buy a decent PSU that has been well-reviewed, has a good reputation and a decently long warranty. Notice that I am not recommending you buy these 1000-W rated monsters, etc.--far too many people spend the $$$ on those an never use 60% of the output!

 

[fallenguru]

Also just a note for others, I am also experiencing issues with some fan headers not spinning up at all. Didn't seem to have any problems until I installed/removed the SmartFan App.

Thank you for the data point. Just for the record, my Master has only ever seen Linux, so it isn't (just) SmartFan.

 

[Waltc]

I see there is a new BIOS for the X570 I, but none of the 4 regions allow me to do download the file... anyone can download the zip?

https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/X570-I-AORUS-PRO-WIFI-rev-10/support#support-dl-bios

Ditto--my browser is set to the correct region (Global English, too)--I cannot access them--and I have an x570 Master. Apparently they are not yet on the server and apparently are in the process of migrating there.... Would *expect* the situation to rectify itself shortly.... That would be nice..

 

[Waltc]

hi i have master (last bios) and 3900x stock, ram patriot stock 2133mhz and 1080ti...the pc behaves strangely, just freezes, sound from gpu the sound skips,...what a solution to where to start, I'm slowly losing patience

Have the same motherboard and a 3600X. No similar problems. This *sounds* like a PSU problem, ironically, since I was just talking about that with someone else. It could be many other things, of course. Query: why are you using the GPU sound? IMO, the motherboard sound from the ALC1220 & the ESS Sabre DAC, and the headphone amp, is far superior. I disable my GPU sound capability in the device manager routinely--but I don't have to as there's no conflict between the drivers, but I have an AMD GPU and cannot speak with experience about nVidia GPU sound drivers for the 1080ti. Good luck! But all is well here with the x570 Master.

 

[Sin_Chase]

I get that the RGB software is obviously terrible, but why for the love of god are the colour settings not saved to the hardware consistently? I just want to install the software, set the damn colour, remove the software and go on with my life. on reboot some/all of the colours revert back to Aorus Orange or "Rainbow Puke".

Please implement basic RGB control in the BIOS, clearly the developers working on BIOS are more competent than the App devs.


Also just a note for others, I am also experiencing issues with some fan headers not spinning up at all. Didn't seem to have any problems until I installed/removed the SmartFan App. Issue with Noctua F12, A14 and some stock 120/140 Fractal design fans (all PWM). I'll have to dig a bit deeper and try setting them to fullspeed or something in bios and do a couple reboots/cmos resets.

Yip, RGB Fusion is really bad..... Even when it's not triggering Anti Cheat software.



I let the software auto start and have a Scheduled Task which runs at login with elevated privileges which runs a batch script. The script waits 20 seconds for the software to load and set colours and then terminates CheckKill and RGB Fusion processes.

 

[gorticus]

Is anyone familiar with how to switch which bios is active on the x570 Master without toggling the switch on the motherboard itself? I had figured out a way to do it by holding the power button down or something similar... I might be misremembering as it's been about a month since I've been able to play with overclocking.

I find it irritating having to open the case to switch back to the main bios where my stable settings are each time one of my ram timings fails to boot causing it to move to secondary bios.

 

[Sphex_]

Yip, RGB Fusion is really bad..... Even when it's not triggering Anti Cheat software.



I let the software auto start and have a Scheduled Task which runs at login with elevated privileges which runs a batch script. The script waits 20 seconds for the software to load and set colours and then terminates CheckKill and RGB Fusion processes.

Huh. I just unchecked the "Startup with Windows" box or whatever it is in RGB Fusion. 0 Problems with anti-cheat or anything else, and the motherboard retains the color I've set through shutdowns and startups. Only Process I see right not associated with Gigabyte is "GCloud / GService".

 

[Dephcon]

Huh. I just unchecked the "Startup with Windows" box or whatever it is in RGB Fusion. 0 Problems with anti-cheat or anything else, and the motherboard retains the color I've set through shutdowns and startups. Only Process I see right not associated with Gigabyte is "GCloud / GService".

Yeah no dice for me unfortunately. On reboot only my Aorus 1080ti's RGB retains it's colour throughout the boot process. My G.Skill RAM and the ARGB strips I have attached to the motherboard are a toss up. Sometimes one reverts to default, sometimes the other, sometimes both are default and VERY rarely they both keep the colour I set in RGB Fusion 2.0

 

[cimirocks]

Ditto--my browser is set to the correct region (Global English, too)--I cannot access them--and I have an x570 Master. Apparently they are not yet on the server and apparently are in the process of migrating there.... Would *expect* the situation to rectify itself shortly.... That would be nice..

I can download the bios for the master, from china mirror... not for the ITX yet

EDIT: Now available for ITX from china mirror