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Hey everyone,

I have a 5950X and a 3090 Strix. I don't actually have a USB stick here (heh...) and always used @BIOS. But @BIOS isn't working any longer - it keeps saying I have to update the app itself, before I can update my bios which I found strange.

I googled this and folks are just saying "don't use @BIOS". Will try what @Medizinmann wrote above and see.
Gigabyte brought encapsulated BIOS in 01/2022 for security reasons and this might the reason you need a new @BIOS...but I also would prefer getting a USB stick...

EDIT: To enable Secure Boot (either Custom or Standard) I had to disable CMS under BIOS. When I do this, my PC will only boot to BIOS - it cannot boot to Windows unless I revert this. Any ideas what I have done wrong? Seems without CMS enabled it doesn't recognize my boot drive?
Well could it be you still use MBR on your boot drive?

If this is the case you need to convert it to GPT!

Best regards,
Medizinmann
 

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Gigabyte brought encapsulated BIOS in 01/2022 for security reasons and this might the reason you need a new @BIOS...but I also would prefer getting a USB stick...



Well could it be you still use MBR on your boot drive?

If this is the case you need to convert it to GPT!

Best regards,
Medizinmann
Thanks Medizinmann.

Computer Font Electronic device Terrestrial plant Multimedia


If I understand this correctly, MBR2GPT cannot find my C: drive?

When I go to Disk Management, my C: drive shows like this:

Rectangle Font Parallel Number Logo



I think this means that the drive isn't on MBR either? I'm very confused here. Guides online say to simply right click the drive and convert to GPT but the option doesn't come up:

Font Screenshot Number Circle Rectangle


Super grateful for any help here. I'd really like to finally resolve this - been putting it off for far too long. Am worried that I didn't set up the boot drive correctly...and that this is why it isn't recognized during secure boot and only with CMS enabled!
 

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Me neither. I downloaded 'AOMEI Partition Assistant Demo' and when I try to convert the drive (it is listed as 'basic MBR') I get:

Rectangle Font Number Magenta Circle


I'm not sure what I did wrong during my Windows 10 install for this to be so problematic. Pretty sure I re-installed at least once since I set up this PC back in December 2020.
 

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Are there more than one drive present in this system?
He does I'd say as it says Disk 2 on the pic he posted. My C drive is on Disk 0.

Also further up the page he posted a command prompt image and he was trying to use MBR2GPT on the wrong Disk as he was trying on Disk 0 while his C drive is in Disk 2.
 

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Me neither. I downloaded 'AOMEI Partition Assistant Demo' and when I try to convert the drive (it is listed as 'basic MBR') I get:

View attachment 2582879

I'm not sure what I did wrong during my Windows 10 install for this to be so problematic. Pretty sure I re-installed at least once since I set up this PC back in December 2020.
Word to the wise. This program caused me to lose a partition a couple of years back--it put the partition offline and I could never get it back. Needless to say, I won't touch it ever again--I should have known better. Just FYI...hope you can work out your problem there! There are much better programs: MiniTool Partition Wizard | Best partition magic alternative for Windows PC and Server
 

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Me neither. I downloaded 'AOMEI Partition Assistant Demo' and when I try to convert the drive (it is listed as 'basic MBR') I get:

View attachment 2582879

I'm not sure what I did wrong during my Windows 10 install for this to be so problematic. Pretty sure I re-installed at least once since I set up this PC back in December 2020.
Your disk's partition-table was not set to GPT from the begning. You need to start from scratch and the easiest way to do is by using a live-cd Linux distro with gparted. Using gparted can give you a user interface so you can see what you are you doing, this is why I recommend it. A good Linux live-cd, out of many, is MX-Linux AHS with XFCE desktop environment. Link: Download Links – MX Linux

You can use also Windows installation USB and choose "Repair your Windows" and choose command prompt to configure the disk using a few simple commands.

Re-configuring your disk will delete all data on your disk using any of the methods so you need to backup your important files from the disk. Disconnecting other harddisks while configuring your main disk will eliminate user error and confusion.

Let us know which method you prefer and we will help you. :)
 

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Your disk's partition-table was not set to GPT from the begning. You need to start from scratch and the easiest way to do is by using a live-cd Linux distro with gparted. Using gparted can give you a user interface so you can see what you are you doing, this is why I recommend it. A good Linux live-cd, out of many, is MX-Linux AHS with XFCE desktop environment. Link: Download Links – MX Linux

You can use also Windows installation USB and choose "Repair your Windows" and choose command prompt to configure the disk using a few simple commands.

Re-configuring your disk will delete all data on your disk using any of the methods so you need to backup your important files from the disk. Disconnecting other harddisks while configuring your main disk will eliminate user error and confusion.

Let us know which method you prefer and we will help you. :)
You can also download a standalone version of GParted to boot from and use RUFUS to burn to a CD/DVD or load on a bootable USB stick rather than an entire distro.
GParted -- Download

Remember that if booting UEFI rather than with CSM enabled is a no go this way. You need to enable CSM for this route to work. It is still a great way of partition manipulation as a general go to for disc erasing and changing partition and file system type. Just wondering as to how his system and boot partitions became separated at this point. 🤔
Aristotelian, could you post a screen of your full disk management screen that includes all drives and layouts please.
 

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Thanks all. I ended up buying a USB stick and updating the BIOS to F36, then re-installed Windows 10 (using Shift F10 to delete the C drive partitions, and then format the drive). Then upgraded to Windows 11.

Was a bit of a laborious process, heh. But it is done - thanks for all the help.

Out of curiosity - do you folks use the Gigabyte App Center? When you do a fresh Windows install what do you do for your driver updates?
 

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Thanks all. I ended up buying a USB stick and updating the BIOS to F36, then re-installed Windows 10 (using Shift F10 to delete the C drive partitions, and then format the drive). Then upgraded to Windows 11.

Was a bit of a laborious process, heh. But it is done - thanks for all the help.

Out of curiosity - do you folks use the Gigabyte App Center? When you do a fresh Windows install what do you do for your driver updates?
Windows should take care of all your driver updates. And download the chipset driver direct from AMD.
 

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Thanks all. I ended up buying a USB stick and updating the BIOS to F36, then re-installed Windows 10 (using Shift F10 to delete the C drive partitions, and then format the drive). Then upgraded to Windows 11.
Thumbs Up!

Was a bit of a laborious process, heh. But it is done - thanks for all the help.
And it is also good to start fresh...;-)

Out of curiosity - do you folks use the Gigabyte App Center? When you do a fresh Windows install what do you do for your driver updates?
Well - I would advise against the Gigabyte App Center - it is rather crappy and can make a lot of problems and sometimes even performance degradation or crashes you install altogether.
And as user 99belle99 pointed out - Windows takes care for most of the drivers - chipset drivers are best downloaded from AMD directly...

Best regards,
Medizinmann
 

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Thanks all. I ended up buying a USB stick and updating the BIOS to F36, then re-installed Windows 10 (using Shift F10 to delete the C drive partitions, and then format the drive). Then upgraded to Windows 11.

Was a bit of a laborious process, heh. But it is done - thanks for all the help.

Out of curiosity - do you folks use the Gigabyte App Center? When you do a fresh Windows install what do you do for your driver updates?
I quit using it because I got tired of it not working after a bios update for a period of time--it usually took weeks before they'd upgrade their software to match the bios update. Driver updates, I always go directly to the manufacturer's website of every device in my system--cannot possibly recommend this highly enough. BTW, I haven't done a fresh install of Windows in several years--as I have TB's of programs I don't wish to have to reinstall! All of my Windows 10 and Win11 build installs (too numerous to count--roughly 1-2 a month) are strictly upgrades, and so far the system is working fine. I upgraded from Win10 to Win11 a year ago, and even my Group Policy settings carried over without a problem (most notably the one which nixes automatic driver updates, which you should definitely be doing, imo.) Glad you got your formatting accomplished!
 

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I quit using it because I got tired of it not working after a bios update for a period of time--it usually took weeks before they'd upgrade their software to match the bios update. Driver updates, I always go directly to the manufacturer's website of every device in my system--cannot possibly recommend this highly enough. BTW, I haven't done a fresh install of Windows in several years--as I have TB's of programs I don't wish to have to reinstall! All of my Windows 10 and Win11 build installs (too numerous to count--roughly 1-2 a month) are strictly upgrades, and so far the system is working fine. I upgraded from Win10 to Win11 a year ago, and even my Group Policy settings carried over without a problem (most notably the one which nixes automatic driver updates, which you should definitely be doing, imo.) Glad you got your formatting accomplished!
You sound like me, most hiccups on PC hardware happen because of Windows, tweaking it is a must.

Running a stripped out tweaked W10 and its super stable, super low DPC latency (perfect for DAW's/Gaming) all with full Windows security, Windows store and able to get latest security updates.

Its like night and day compared to a full fat windows experience lol
 

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Running a stripped out tweaked W10
Did you do this yourself or download a program to do it automatically?
I wouldn't use some programs people make as I remember someone had to reinstall Windows as they stripped out too much and couldn't use Windows store.

I have always ran full fat Windows and do not have any issues.
 

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Did you do this yourself or download a program to do it automatically?
I wouldn't use some programs people make as I remember someone had to reinstall Windows as they stripped out too much and couldn't use Windows store.

I have always ran full fat Windows and do not have any issues.
Stripped out is probably the wrong word, more a fairly tweaked as in bare minimum services running and a custom power plan
 

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Ive just moved back up from F34 to F37d (using Aorus Elite Wifi) in anticipation of installing a 5800x3d.

Back to random bluescreens on entry to windows. It's the ram issue spoken of in the thread.

Have set ram timings manually to the XMP settings and slightly lowered clock and it works, but still blue screens maybe 1 in 10? F34 was perfect with XMP settings.

Is it worth buying new RAM at this point? Using 2x16gb Gskill Trident Z Neo 3200mhz.

As much as I really want to use it, I am also considering returning the 5800x3d.. not sure what to do.
 

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Ive just moved back up from F34 to F37d (using Aorus Elite Wifi) in anticipation of installing a 5800x3d.

Back to random bluescreens on entry to windows. It's the ram issue spoken of in the thread.

Have set ram timings manually to the XMP settings and slightly lowered clock and it works, but still blue screens maybe 1 in 10? F34 was perfect with XMP settings.

Is it worth buying new RAM at this point? Using 2x16gb Gskill Trident Z Neo 3200mhz.

As much as I really want to use it, I am also considering returning the 5800x3d.. not sure what to do.
Try bios F37a...
 

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Just loaded onto F37a, same issue.

Blue screen at default XMP which works solid as a rock for years on F34.

Using 3200mhz, adjusting down to 3000 seems to stop the bluescreens, but won't run stable on default XMP settings unfortunately... Truly frustrating.
 
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