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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked my up a H50a few days ago. First day I wasn't impressed at all. Once things got settled, i started to see my temps drop. I bought Arctic Silver 5 for my A70 not my H50. I just folded overnight for about 9 hours and cmae down to see my temps stayed at 54-59c the entire night.

Question: Will it be worth switching to Arctic Silver 5. Has anyone switched from stock H50 paste to this and seen a difference.
 

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Stock compound is Shin-Etsu and better than AS5.

If you had a bad mount, you might get better performance compared to now, but all else being equal Shin-Etsu performs better than AS5.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I didnt know that. thought if came with the same garbage I sued with my A70. Although the cooler worked pretty well.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by Skripka
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Stock compound is Shin-Etsu and better than AS5.

If you had a bad mount, you might get better performance compared to now, but all else being equal Shin-Etsu performs better than AS5.

What he Said.

Was ur H50 in Push/pull? That made a 9C difference for me.

I have the stock fan and a enermax fan pushing air out.

But with one fan only, the temps were average.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Quote:


Originally Posted by ***estar
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What he Said.

Was ur H50 in Push/pull? That made a 9C difference for me.

I have the stock fan and a enermax fan pushing air out.

But with one fan only, the temps were average.

Yeah that also helped. H50 came with a crap 1200-1300 rpm fan. Once I changed that out and added in the 2000rpm fans that came with the A70. I immediately noticed a difference. P/P
 

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I am happy to see this topic this morning as I am currently considering the purchase of a Corsair H50. My goal is to reduce my load temps on my Q6600 @ 3.6Ghz. How loud would you say the H50 is in a push/pull setup? Are you overall impressed with the product?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
stock fan(single 1300rpm) not real load. Once you add in 2000rpm's its noticeable. Its not ridiculous. But I had those fans on my A70 so I was use to the sound. The loader the cooler right ? lol its not that load
 

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I'm extremly happy with the H50. Its soooo quite. I dont think I can Get my temps high enough to make it really loud, but so far I can barely hear it at all. I load 46c core temp at 100 percent load and 56c socet temp at my current speed.
 

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Man you guys have me itching to replace my horrible Zalman CNPS9700 NT. I see max load temps of 60-65C and even 70C when running processor intensive applications like BFBC2 @ 3.6Ghz.

The fan on this thing is so loud I am not even sure how I have put up with it for this long.

CtrlAltElite mentioned in another thread that the Corsair H50 is retailing on sale for $39.99 at Bestbuy. I thought I would share that information in this thread too. I am pretty convinced I will be heading to Bestbuy in a couple hours to slap this bad boy in.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by ***estar
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I'm extremly happy with the H50. Its soooo quite. I dont think I can Get my temps high enough to make it really loud, but so far I can barely hear it at all. I load 46c core temp at 100 percent load and 56c socet temp at my current speed.

With the bugged thermal sensors Thubans have, your temps really aren't that great.

I was very underwhelmed I had and sold my H50 for real water. 125-130W CPUs plus Corsair Hydro=unremarkable temps, IMHO. Though things are better now that prices have dropped to more reasonable levels given the performance.
 

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I have as5 on mine , to be honest i didnt use the shin etsu for long .. it gave me horrible temps .

As5 is doing great for me , i had to literally reseat a handful of times to get the sweet spot because it was my first build and i was learning and trying things out ..

I find using the line method is the most effective , aslong as you put the pump on carefully and dont sumdge it before you get it in place the tim should spread out even with good coverage and give you good temp .

I sanded the bottom of my h50 block , aswel as my cpu . I reckon do your block atleast , get it nice and smooth/shiny it will contact the cpu even better and have a cleaner/flatter surface . I did my cpu to , made a good difference but people dont like to risk it .

I had the standard ( over volted ) corsair fan and an antec tri cool fan in push\\pull setup and i got max of 60c 100% load @ 4.2ghz 1.408v

The h50 is really awsome , out of the box its rather ordinary .. thats why its always compared to the noctua dh-14 .

If you do a few simple things like

* Lap the base of the pump ( theres no risk really ) just do it lightly to get it flat / shiny .

* Apply as5 in a thin line down the cpu , attatch the pump with out smudging .

* Screw down the pump as tight as you can , dont strip the screws though . It helps make good contact with your cpu . If its not 100% tight / contact with your cpu the temps will spike instantly under load .

*Put the radiator in the coolest place in the case , make space for it up front as an intake as it works best that way .

* Get 2 good fans for push pull , atleast 1600rpm . Or you could go Low rpm if you like , now the h50 has a lapped base and as5 applyed like so you can take advantage of that extra gap you have dropped in temps so you wont really need powerful fans ..

All that stuff will help you considerably bring down your temps i guarentee it . Applying the thermal paste is the trickiest part but dont worry you will get it .

goodluck .
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by Xristo
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* Screw down the pump as tight as you can , dont strip the screws though . It helps make good contact with your cpu .

I would *strongly* advise against this. You will warp your motherboard. Any waterbolock does not need to be that tight. Past just snug, all you're doing is distorting the plane of the motherboard.
 

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I dont mean overboard tight , some people get scared to tighten it that extra bit but i like to because sometimes the bracket can even be warped and not screw down properly . I remember with mine i used to push on the pump and the temps would go down by 5-7c .

I had to put washers and screw it down pretty tight , in his case it might not need that but the bracket i got wasnt very good and it didnt make good contact with my cpu before i fixed it up .

Im not advising him to overtighten it , i just reccomend making sure its tight or the temps will spike .

Waterblocks that cost the price of the h50 are abit different , sometimes mass produced stuff dont line up when you get it home where as a quality block would be mirror finish flat and have metal backplates unlike the h50's plastic one . Its horrible .

I even advise making a backplate , that helps alot too . If your capable of doing so .
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Quote:


Originally Posted by Skripka
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I would *strongly* advise against this. You will warp your motherboard. Any waterbolock does not need to be that tight. Past just snug, all you're doing is distorting the plane of the motherboard.


Its already installed anyway. I know not to screw down anything (as tight as I can) to the mobo. Not sure if that guy is serious or what. Even about sanding down the block.
 

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You should try running Intel Burn Test 20 times at maximum with the updated Linpack and Windows 7 SP1. That'll give you your true worst-case-scenario temperature...
 

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Of coarse im serious

Sanding down the block will give you significant increase in heat transfer , have a look at this block . I remember when i got mine it was very grainy and uneven , i sanded it back so it was smooth and flat . I got better temps .

normal









lapped









backplate



I dont mean screw it down as tight as you can , im not advising you to break your mobo .. thats just silly , its your own fault if you did .

It needs to be considerably tight against your cpu , even the slightest gap will cause air bubbles in the thermal compund and the temps will sky rocket once you throw some voltage into that chip . Maybe your h50 and cpu fit flat together like a dream but i know my cpu was concave and the block of my h50 wasnt even straight , the outside edges sanded down before the centre .

Just advising you .
 
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