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I dont know barely ANYTHING about overclocking intel cpus what you could lower the RAM frequencies on it a little. Helped me out.
 

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It's likely the X1600 that's holding you back now.

Generally, you could go further on this CPU, but I want to know your temperatures first before you go any further.

For your CPU, either download TAT or Core Temp. Run either of these programs, and put a 100% load on both cores to check your load temps.

Then, report back what your temps are.

Your motherboard should be able to hit an FSB of 400MHz easily, and thus you should see way over 3.0GHz without any problems

And yes, putting your RAM back a bit should help also. For you, I'd say the best setting is to put your RAM at DDR2 533 speeds. When you do that, the RAM will run DDR2 533 at stock CPU speed. When you then increase the FSB, the RAM will go up with it, and with an FSB or 400MHz, you'll have an effective RAM speed of DDR2 800.
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RickJS
Yay, I was somewhat right.

Anyway, I just remebered that I read that e6400's should get to 3.4 if you do it right, though I'm not sure how stable it is.
Very stable (up to 11+ hours Prime95 on both cores - it didn't fail at 11 hrs, I had to leave the house). I run mine 24/7 at my OC'd speed.

Just keep it as cool as possible.
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SonnyVan
Thanks guys...its currently 59c
Okay cooling needs some attention IMO. Do you have funds for some potential upgrades? If so what are you looking at?

Sometimes a couple of extra 120mm fans can help tremendously (1 - intake and 1 - exhaust).

What Apevia model do you have?
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SonnyVan
Thanks guys...its currently 59c
59c full load should be OK, these are differant cpu's compared to all others they can handle higher load temps, mine has been to 60c without problems.
 

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I'm not sure If I've helped you any or If I can but I'd like to know if you make any progress on this. So....keep us updated?
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SonnyVan
I have 2 out (80+120), glass panel and back near I/O.
2 front (80) and a Artic Chill 7
When you say "glass panel" do you mean a window that has an 80mm venting? Conventional use states that this fan ought to be an intake.

I think that with some rearanging you can get better airflow through your case. A simple test to see if this will work is to take the side panel off and have a fan (on low) blowing accross your HS. If your temps drop more than a couple degrees (C), then there is some room for improvement with the case closed.

Try to strike a balance between intake and exhuast. Evidently (I have no emperical proof) a slight "positive" pressure is more desirable (more intake CFM than exhaust CFM). This can also be controlled with fan, yup....you guessed it... controllers.

Experiment, then post back. Saving money is great, so if you can get an imrovement with what you have then keep that cash
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SonnyVan
BTW How can you tell which is in and out.

I'm such a sucker for LED's
Take a piece of paper and put it by the fan... if the paper pulls toward the fan its in, if the paper is pushed away from the fan its out.
 
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Quote:

Originally Posted by SonnyVan
BTW How can you tell which is in and out.

I'm such a sucker for LED's
Most quality manufacturers will have arrows on the edge of the fan casing that indicates rotation and direction. Also many manufacturers will place the label on the fan side that blows.

The paper technique though is flawless.

When choosing fans strike an acceptable balance (its personal) between CFM (cubic Feet per Minute) and dBa (noise rating). silverstone fans are quite nice in both aspects.

Oh!... and nice case. I think you said you that you had 80's up front. Is there any way that a 120 could fit? 120's are superior in the CFM/dBa department.
 
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