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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I assembled my first custom loop last December. I did all my homework first and chose the xspc TR4 cpu block, a MORA3 rad and Primoflex advanced LRT tubing. No gpu block yet.
I used distilled water with the premix that comes with the tubing (Sysprep and Utopia, each mixed in 1 gallon of distilled water). Followed instructions. Everything was good.
Temps are still just as good as day one but the water turned really brown this las month. Today I opened the case to add a component and I got scared I couldn’t check the fins in the block anymore.

Pics:


Is this corrosion? Is the loop in danger? Both rad and block are copper. I don’t get it.
 

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Totally Tubular
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Sysprep is supposed to be added to distilled water and run through the loop to clean out the components/tubing. Then it's supposed to be flushed out.

Liquid Utopia is supposed to be added to distilled water and used as your long-term coolant, as it provides protection against biologicals and corrosion.

If you're running plain distilled water without any additives, that could be why your water is now brown.
 

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Dont worry OP.

Drain your loop, fill initial reservoir amount with vinegar. Fill rest with distilled water.

Let it run through your system for a good 1-2 hours. Run a benchmark or stress test to get the water warm. Vinegar is excellent system cleaner, and wont harm anything.

Drain, refill only with distilled water, let it run for half an hour or so, drain, then use coolant or mix of your choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sysprep is supposed to be added to distilled water and run through the loop to clean out the components/tubing. Then it's supposed to be flushed out.

Liquid Utopia is supposed to be added to distilled water and used as your long-term coolant, as it provides protection against biologicals and corrosion.

If you're running plain distilled water without any additives, that could be why your water is now brown.
Yes, I'm not running Sysprep currently ofc. I'm running Utopia with distilled water. Do you think I got scammed with the water? The only thing I can think of is that I was sold tap water.
Dont worry OP.

Drain your loop, fill initial reservoir amount with vinegar. Fill rest with distilled water.

Let it run through your system for a good 1-2 hours. Run a benchmark or stress test to get the water warm. Vinegar is excellent system cleaner, and wont harm anything.

Drain, refill only with distilled water, let it run for half an hour or so, drain, then use coolant or mix of your choice.
Thanks, to be honest I don't really care about the ugly color per se as long as it doesn't endanger the loop (no windowed side panel xD).
Since I'm waiting on the new generation of Nvidia cards (allegedly out this year) to complete the loop, could I wait and follow your instructions then without corrosion risk?
 

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Like what other suggested, drain the loop to look for any solid residues. It can give a better perception on whats goin on in your loop. For corrosion to happen in just distilled water would take weeks unless iron is present which is unlikely in modern watercooling parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Allright I guess I'll do it then. As soon as I can find distilled water from a different brand.

Thanks everyone, I'll report back soon.

edit: If I don't find it, is it ok to mix the vinegar with deionized water?
 

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Shooting down fallacies
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I would run some Mayhems Blitz Pt. 2 through there to clean it up. Then use Mayhems X1 clear as a coolant. Go with the tried and true proven products instead of trying to save $20. Your loop is worth a lot more than $20.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I would run some Mayhems Blitz Pt. 2 through there to clean it up. Then use Mayhems X1 clear as a coolant. Go with the tried and true proven products instead of trying to save $20. Your loop is worth a lot more than $20.
The problem is I live in a country without custom water components. I had to import everything, and importing liquids is very complicated (customs doesn't know the difference between a coolant and radioactive poison).

This utopia concentrated premix is ideal since it comes disguised in the tubing box and I can get unlimmited distilled or dionized water here.
 

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Baller on a Budget
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There's nothing wrong with using distilled. I've been wary of running coolant because some brands used to degrade over time, not sure if that's still the case though.

Currently just using distilled with a couple drops of Dead-Water (copper sulfate). Water is still clear after a few months. Still a good idea to flush and refill every once in awhile.
 

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Wow that's looking nasty, its more likely is solder and flux or as above algae but I think its solder flux

As above guys suggested deionized water works, I'm using only deionized as distilled water over here in UK is hard to get, for coolant X1 works in my case and no issues

I got MO-ra3 360mm and my come clean and no issues, not sure what has happened in yours case but this doesn't look good

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura
 

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If you using nickel plated parts, best not to use silver coil. Heard that it can cause some issues although i never personally tried it. I meself using distilled with utopia. Currently doin some experiment mixing mica powder with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Currently running 80% deionized water and 20% vinegar. Not turned on though I would rather avoid the hassle, I'll check if it's clean in the next 2 hours and decide then.
Looks like the plate is what was reacting here, isn't it marine steel or something like that? afaik nothing like this was reported in the xspc thread so possibly the distilled water i was using was fake. I'll find out after another few months.
 

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The jet plate is stainless steel. Stainless is very inert and is safe to use in a loop. The stainless is less noble than copper, so it would the part that corrodes (if it even would)

Is there an MSDS for primochill Utopia?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
The jet plate is stainless steel. Stainless is very inert and is safe to use in a loop. The stainless is less noble than copper, so it would the part that corrodes (if it even would)

Is there an MSDS for primochill Utopia?
sorry MSDS (English is not my main language)? expiracy date was end of 2018 I think.

edit: googled it, no nothing of the sort only intructions to use with distilled or dionized water (mix with 1 gallon)
 

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sorry MSDS (English is not my main language)? expiracy date was end of 2018 I think.

edit: googled it, no nothing of the sort only intructions to use with distilled or dionized water (mix with 1 gallon)
Oh in this case I'm referring to a safety data sheet that indicates what's in the product and safety precautions etc.

The most common biocides in water cooling are copper sulphate and benzalkonium chloride. Neither protect against corrosion.
 

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Oh in this case I'm referring to a safety data sheet that indicates what's in the product and safety precautions etc.

The most common biocides in water cooling are copper sulphate and benzalkonium chloride. Neither protect against corrosion.
So in your opinion this is corrosion? :sicksmile
 

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So in your opinion this is corrosion? :sicksmile
Corrosion isn't likely, I'm just theorizing what the main ingredient is.

This behaves like algae - the water was fine until one day it turned brown. That's an algae bloom :)

Whatever the biocide was, I think it's used up.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Flusehd the vinegar. No noteworthy changes to the block. Reservoir is pristine.

Sysprep now (my 2nd/last bottle so instead of wasting it all in a gallon I won't use like last time, used only 5ml/1third since my system uses around 1.4L).
It requires at least 12hs so gonna let ir run all night and report back tomorrow.

Thank you all for your input :D

edit: typo
 

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Flusehd the vinegar. No noteworthy changes to the block. Reservoir is pristine.

Sysprep now (my 2nd/last bottle so instead of wasting it all in a gallon I won't use like last time, used only 5ml/1third since my system uses around 1.4L).
It requires at least 12hs so gonna let ir run all night and report back tomorrow.

Thank you all for your input :D

edit: typo
Are those brown lines still in the block after you flushed it?

That's definitely algae, and it may require you disassemble the block to clean it all out.
 
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