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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, i own a ryzen r5 1600 3.8ghz at 1.35v and a gtx 1060 overclocked to 2139mhz. On a asus strix b350-f motherboard.
Now for cooling i have a cheapish cpu block and gpu block, a magicool dcp450 pump/res, a 240mm slim rad and a 360mm rad but my temps seem rather high compared to others ive seen.

I have a thermaltake view 27 case (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermaltak...532732138&sr=8-1&keywords=thermaltake+view+27)

I currently have the 240mm rad at the front of the case with 2 vardar fans on the front (push config), then i have the 360mm rad just lying on the bottom of the case with 3 corsair sp 120mm fans in pull config.

Its been a warm day reaching around 30-32c and now in the evening it is around 25c outside and roughly 28-30c ambient in the room.

Idle temps : cpu : 45c gpu: 42c

Playing Bf1 for around 1 hour my gpu is around 56c and my cpu is around 64c

Prime 95 test within 10minutes my cpu hits around the 80c mark.

i am just kinda confused at how others are achieving much lower temps with half the amount of radiators in a similar ambient temperature.

I am using liquid metal thermal paste on both gpu and cpu and everything is seated correctly.

Any thoughts why this is slightly to high?
 

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"Just lying on the bottom of the case"...what does that mean? Rofl
 

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Discussion Starter #3
it means as it is written, there is ia 360mm rad on the bottom of the case above the psu and harddrive compartment. if you take a look at the case you will understand what i mean. But also the 360mm is a new addition, which has dropped my temps by around 6-7c, i was running on the 240mm for a long time, so the 360mm isnt warming up the pc more than it was, however i understand it is not having clean airflow, but with the case side panels off i am achieving pretty much the same results and if i touch the radiator i can't feel any heat at all
 

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What kind of flow are you getting? 1GPM is where you'd want to be.
Sounds like the pump is struggling or you have some restriction somewhere in addition to the rad in such a situation, the only real info/review I can find on the pump says it's garbage so I'd suspect that. How does the rad get hot air out and cool air in if it's just sitting there? I'm really confused on this build, instead of a custom loop with a rad just sitting inside the case, you should have gotten a better GPU and CPU unless you don't care about the performance as much as having a loop.
I'd tear the whole thing down and start over, probably in a case that will hold the rads with a pump that will run the loop.
Cheap pump, cheap blocks, case with almost no radiator support and a loop cooling mid range hardware. Can I assume the 240mm rad is being used as the only intake? If you spent $300 on the loop you could have just sold the 1060 and gotten a better GPU which would have actually gotten you some performance and the same can be said for the CPU since you'll get even less of an OC out of it. A 1600 and a 1060 OC'd as high as possible would still be a worse gaming rig than a 1600 and a 1080. Since most people get 2000Mhz out of their Pascal cards on the AIB coolers you're really only looking at a 7% boost in graphical performance at 2140Mhz. A 1600 will do 3.8Ghz with a good air cooler so even if your loop was cooling as well as you'd expect you're still only looking at a 7% boost from only the GPU and 0% from the CPU when compared to air cooling using an AIB GPU cooler and a decent tower cooler.
My point isn't to say water cooling is pointless but it's definitely wasted money if you aren't getting anything out of it at all when you could have upgraded the GPU the maybe the CPU.


Also it's pretty much a waste to use liquid metal instead of thermal paste on the IHS, plus you risk shorting the board out if any were to drip. The GPU might gain a little bit but when I went back to regular paste (MX4) it made no thermal difference at all.
LM is really nice for delidded CPUs but I haven't seen much other use for it unless you count shunt mods...you can actually get within 1 or 2c of LM by using normal paste under the IHS as well, the paste just doesn't last as long. Hopefully the LM didn't stain your blocks too badly, I had to use an abrasive to clean it off nickel.



Since you already have all this stuff (hopefully the rads, blocks and fittings are copper/nickel) you should get a d5 pump and a case made to fit the rads you have.



Just having a rad sitting in the case with the side off isn't as good as using both rad (mounted in a case) as intakes since the rad will always be eating hot air from it's self or the other rad unless you take it completely out of the case. The idea is to only run ambient air through the rads without recirculating the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the detailed response, when i purchased the cpu, gpu board and case roughly a year before i put on the watercooling, i do plan on upgrading my gpu when the next range of nividia cards are released. Also with the cpu i plan on upgrading that when zen 2 or zen 3 is released in 2019/20.
I know the pump is cheap and the blocks im using are cheap, which all in all arent going to get me as good of results if i were to buy some well branded more expensive parts.

On the other hand, i think alot had to do with it yesterday was the ambient temperature, it was a very warm day and my pc had been on all day playing games most of the day to achieve those temps, i just booted the pc today with the ambient is now at 16-18c instead of around 30c yesterday, the gpu and cpu are both idling at 32-34c although i havent done any demanding tasks on it yet.

all the parts were kind of aquired over time in stages as im on a budget, but as i said in the next year or so i plan on upgrading both gpu and cpu. And most likely the pump, blocks and case.

I will do some more play tests today and compare my temps to yesterday.

And yes the 240mm is on the front of the case with the 2 vardar fans as the source of intake.

Again thanks for your detailed response i appreciate the input, i will update my temps later this evening to compare from yesterday.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Even after just 30mins of gaming it doesnt seem to be going any higher

Yesterday CPU:64c
GPU:56c


Today CPU: 52-54c
GPU: 49c

This is more what i would expect in the low 50s, with better parts like blocks and pump, and more optimal airflow it should help to improve more
 

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Even after just 30mins of gaming it doesnt seem to be going any higher

Yesterday CPU:64c
GPU:56c


Today CPU: 52-54c
GPU: 49c

This is more what i would expect in the low 50s, with better parts like blocks and pump, and more optimal airflow it should help to improve more
A case that can provide proper airflow to your rads would likely help you far more than changing out the blocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Maybe i should put the 360mm on the front of the case, which i guess will make more sense having the bigger rad getting more clean air, ill swap it around now and test it
 

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Cheaper blocks are usually just fine as long as they are copper or nickel, the real issue before all is the pump IMO. Even if you had the rads mounted in a case it wouldn't do you much good if you don't have the flow you need, since the 360 isn't warming up at all you're leaving a lot of cooling on the table without a good pump.
 

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Maybe i should put the 360mm on the front of the case, which i guess will make more sense having the bigger rad getting more clean air, ill swap it around now and test it
It would make even more sense putting it in a case that will allow cool air to get to it freely.

Cheaper blocks are usually just fine as long as they are copper or nickel, the real issue before all is the pump IMO. Even if you had the rads mounted in a case it wouldn't do you much good if you don't have the flow you need, since the 360 isn't warming up at all you're leaving a lot of cooling on the table without a good pump.
The DCP450 isn't a D5, but it isn't a complete travesty, either. Realistically, a new case and pump are in order. Personally, I think the case will make a far larger difference. Take a real look at the View27. There is no air getting to the rads without needing to go through an incredibly restrictive front. All the liquid flow in the world won't help if the rads can't cool the liquid.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
after swaping over the 360mm radiator to the front of the case and adding an additional 3 fans, so there is fans both sides, the temps are much better.

The ambient is around 18-20c

Although the ambient is lower than yesterday my cpu is now idling around 32c and gpu also 32c.

ive dropped roughly 10c on both cpu and gpu from last night testing. (the test i did earlier was in another game which was stupid and ofcourse skewed my results)

im now around 52-54c on the cpu in battlefield 1 (30-50% cpu)

And 48-50c on the gpu (running 1440p so always 90%+ usage)

All fans are running at lowest rpm

All in all i am happy with the results atleast, i just need a better pump and case in the future.

Thanks for your input
 

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The DCP450 isn't a D5, but it isn't a complete travesty, either. Realistically, a new case and pump are in order. Personally, I think the case will make a far larger difference. Take a real look at the View27. There is no air getting to the rads without needing to go through an incredibly restrictive front. All the liquid flow in the world won't help if the rads can't cool the liquid.

I'd agree but he said one rad isn't even heating up. Both rads should feel about the same right?
Yeah I looked at it lol
 

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Discussion Starter #13
both rads werent really heating up that much, the case was brought without watercooling in mind, that concept came much later :D
 

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Maybe i should put the 360mm on the front of the case, which i guess will make more sense having the bigger rad getting more clean air, ill swap it around now and test it
I have an R7 2700 with a stock cooler from an R5 1600 and my temps are very similar to yours at load (below 70) with my ambient hovering around 25. I leave the cpu at stock. But my idle stays below 40. I'm just using MX-4 for paste.

It's got to be the pump struggling to push water. You really need water for a 3.8GHz OC? I suggest just watercool the gpu with the smaller rad. take out the 360 up until you get a better pump.

With the stock cooler i can oc my 2700 to 3900MHz on all 8 cores and temps are still respectable. Not reaching 80 for the cpu. The vrm's a different story. These are gaming temps.

EDIT: Hell we have exact same setup. B350 Strix and 1060.
 

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well it all seems alot better now, idles between 30-32c on cpu and gpu, and under gaming load both low 50s
Glad you sorted it out. Please share what you did to fix it. Good job.

I just checked my temps after playing BF4 and my cpu stayed under 60. My gpu core was 82 :( Keep your water.
 

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A case that can provide proper airflow to your rads would likely help you far more than changing out the blocks.
^^
This

Adding more fans is not a good solution, it also means more noise.

If you decide to keep the case get get rid of the rear exhaust fan grill, not only will this greatly improve the airflow of getting the HOT air out of your case, but it will also lower the noise level quite substantially.

Then get cracking on the front of the case, it's way too restricted, the front fans are getting starved of air.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Glad you sorted it out. Please share what you did to fix it. Good job.

I just checked my temps after playing BF4 and my cpu stayed under 60. My gpu core was 82 :( Keep your water.
As it sits now, i have a 360mm rad with 6 fans on the front of the case, and a 240mm rad on the bottom of the case with 2 fans in pull config.

Just been playing overwatch for over 1 hour, gpu was 45c and cpu was 48c.
 

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As it sits now, i have a 360mm rad with 6 fans on the front of the case, and a 240mm rad on the bottom of the case with 2 fans in pull config.

Just been playing overwatch for over 1 hour, gpu was 45c and cpu was 48c.
That's a bit overkill. Kinda like what i had before on this Air 540. 240 up top and 360 at front. But i was cooling the cpu and two fire raging AMD cards. 360 still in there in case the cpu needs a bath.
 

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I'd agree but he said one rad isn't even heating up. Both rads should feel about the same right?
Yeah I looked at it lol
Feeling the rad is about as accurate as me guessing his liquid temp from here. Should both rads "feel" the same? Well, it makes no difference, since you aren't directly feeling the liquid, and there are variances in the design of the rads that would drastically alter what it is you are actually feeling. But, we do know that liquid temp in a loop normalizes, and very rarely deviates more than a degree or two at any point in the loop. The only way you would be able to tell if there was a drastic variance would be with temp sensors for the liquid, feeling the rads isn't going to do it.
 
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