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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After looking at different designs of CPU water blocks both commercial and homemade, I have decided to make my own. Being the king of cheap that I am, I cannot justify spending 50 or more dollars for a small peice of copper with a peice of acrylic on top of it. I am off to the Hardware to see what can come up with. A friend is bringing me a good size chunk of copper on Monday so here goes. Pics to follow Guys, wish me luck!
 

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What tools are you going to use? Depending on the waterblock, you can get anything from temps you would expect when aircooling, to very good watercooling temps. Might as well give it a try though. Tools and design are everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here are the first pics. The first pic is the block that I am going to use as model, the second will be the chamber design I will use. The third pic is what I have got done today, made a template for the mounting holes for the top plate and have started to shape it, I cut it with a jig saw and metal cutting blade and smoothed the edges with a drum sander in the drill press. I am making my own hose barbs too because it is hard to find 1/2"x1/4 NPT. More to come...


 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by fstfrddy

I will probably do it at work and there are no cameras allowed.

Hmm, I wonder where you work...

Looks good. Keep us posted. I'm wondering if it would be better to leave the channels rough. Causing turbulation to the water in your block seems to be a good thing for cooling. (I dunno how rough/smooth you plan on making/leaving them)

Looks like you've already got started on the barbs, but FYI for anyone:
http://www.portagespecialty.com/custom/BrassHose.html

They have just about any barb/fitting you could want. They have 1/2" x 1/4" NPT barbs for $0.57/each. And shipping was very resonable when I ordered from them. Home Depot, Danger Den, and about anyone else over charges for hose barbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Quote:


Originally Posted by DeathONator

Hmm, I wonder where you work...

Looks good. Keep us posted. I'm wondering if it would be better to leave the channels rough. Causing turbulation to the water in your block seems to be a good thing for cooling. (I dunno how rough/smooth you plan on making/leaving them)

Looks like you've already got started on the barbs, but FYI for anyone:
http://www.portagespecialty.com/custom/BrassHose.html

They have just about any barb/fitting you could want. They have 1/2" x 1/4" NPT barbs for $0.57/each. And shipping was very resonable when I ordered from them. Home Depot, Danger Den, and about anyone else over charges for hose barbs.

I work for a company that manufactures surgical needles, All of our machinery is built on site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here is what I did today, drilled and tapped nipple holes, made a PVC backplate for the mobo and the small peice of PVC is a rough template to help me get everything in the right position, I will also use it as a guide to cut out the water chamber. I am thinking I should put some holes in that backplate for ventilation, Any thoughts on that? Or is there not enough heat coming off the back of the mobo to worry about?
 

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If your mounting hardware is sturdy enough, then you should be fine. Allow me to use an example.

My ThermalTake Tower 112 weighs roughly 4 pounds. That is equal to ~1,800 grams. Now, the majority of that weight wasn't even near the board, because if you have seen this heatsink, its fins are contained about 2 inces off the board, which puts a ton of torque on the board itself.

In conclusion, if your mounting hardware is sturdy enough, you will be fine. I wouldn't worry about weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by ATVkid
If your mounting hardware is sturdy enough, then you should be fine. Allow me to use an example.

My ThermalTake Tower 112 weighs roughly 4 pounds. That is equal to ~1,800 grams. Now, the majority of that weight wasn't even near the board, because if you have seen this heatsink, its fins are contained about 2 inces off the board, which puts a ton of torque on the board itself.

In conclusion, if your mounting hardware is sturdy enough, you will be fine. I wouldn't worry about weight.
Wow! that is heavy, I shouldn't have any problems then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I didn't have too much time at work today but I did manage to get the inside of the top plate lapped and polished, I will do the other side tomorrow. The bottom of the block will be even better. My friend did bring me a huge chunk of scrap copper for the water chamber but most of it will be scrap, it was some kind of giant electrical contact switch. I have another friend working on cutting the block down to size, I was hoping to get more than one good peice out of it but no. More to come..............
LL
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by MAXX
wow i wish i could build something like that
You can with time and patience, I made this top plate in my home workshop with a jigsaw, drill press and benchgrinder, and it is possible to use a drill press as a rough milling machine,anyone can lap and polish. I am doing some of it at work because I spend so much time there. However I am a professional die maker, I make carbide dies that press surgical needles into shape but it could all be done in a home workshop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Cleaned up the front of the top plate and Friend at work did some more cutting on the block, there are lots of old screw holes that have to be avoided to get a solid chunk, so it is taking some time fitting it into his work schedule. He has also volunteered to cut the chamber out so I am letting him do it. Sorry i can't get pics of the process, You guys would love to see this shop.
LL
 
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