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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When the G502 was first released, I was one of the first people to post on the forum about it and said it was the best mouse sensor ever released. I had installed the mouse, put in my settings, and uninstalled the software when I first got it. A week later I decided to reinstall the software to change button binds on the mouse and from that point on, I could NEVER get the mouse to feel remotely as good as when I first reviewed it. Profile 3 would also do strange things like revert to 500hz even though I set it to 1000hz, but the other two profiles didn't do it.

Today I randomly decided to try and debug the issues with this mouse and remembered a long time ago that a Steelseries mouse I used, I think it was the Xai, had major issues when I set both profiles to the exact same settings, 800 DPI and 1000hz and all three of my G502 profiles were set to the same thing. I decided to go all out making sure I did every possible step to debug this mouse and it finally worked and it's back to being the best sensor out again. Here's the steps I did:

1) First, enable the Human Interface Device service if it's disabled. Reboot the computer if it was disabled, if it was already running, proceed to step two. (you can disable it again after all this is over if you want)

2) If the G502 is not currently plugged in, power off the PC, unplug the current mouse, then plug in G502.

3) If the G502 was already plugged in, or if you have ever plugged it in before on your current windows install, then you need to go in device manager and uninstall whichever "USB Composite device" corresponds to your mouse in the list as shown below, then reboot. If you guess the wrong one and uninstall both, sometimes Windows will not install either on reboot, then you have to physically unplug them and plug them back in. It always works if you only uninstall one though, so just do it again until you get it right.



4) You will see a "installing device" balloon pop up in the bottom right corner on Win7 or in the bottom taskbar on Win8 after doing the above step. This balloon only pops up the first time you ever plug a new mouse in on your current Windows install, so you're forcing Windows into doing this over again, then you should reboot after it happens.

5) Install Logitech software, if surface tuning was on anything but default, change it back to default.

6) Go in the first profile. Click the "restore defaults" button. Change "DPI sensitivity levels" to 1, then input what DPI you want by highlighting the DPI number and type your DPI in with the keyboard and hit enter, do not move the sliders or arrows to set DPI. Next, do the same thing with the other two profiles, but do not input the same DPI setting as the first profile. If profile 2 or 3 is already on the same setting that you just changed profile 1 to, then you will need to go back and redo profile 1 after you set profile 2 and 3 to something else. Your main DPI setting that you use should be profile 1 as well. Do not bother trying to disable profile 2 or 3, when I did before, they get bugged and either refuse to turn off or refuse to turn back on. The software is buggy, that's why you're going through all these steps.



7) Don't change any settings like light effects or anything else in the options menu for Logitech software, just reboot your PC now.

8) The Logitech software is going to automatically start now. Click the Logitech options menu and basically uncheck all the boxes in it so that it doesn't start on Windows boot or do any of the other irrelevant things in there, then reboot the PC after.

9) Wait a minute or two for Windows to settle, then manually open Logitech Gaming Software and you will see the light logo on the mouse flash when it does as it reinitializes the mouse. At this point, your mouse should be working properly and you should exit Logitech software and reboot the PC again. After reboot, the software should not have started, and at this point, if you feel like the sensor is performing better than any sensor you've used, you should go into the program manager, uninstall the software, and never go near it again. Also, uninstall Apple Bonjour.
 

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So someone is able to use that shape? Interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ukkooh View Post

So someone is able to use that shape? Interesting.
G502 shape isn't bad to me since it's a claw grip mouse. The issue is that the thing is kind of big and heavy, so if your mouse is bugged or not flicking right, it's going to be really exhausting for your hand with such a big and heavy mouse. If the mouse and software are working correctly, it takes much less effort to launch the cursor at your target, so the size and weight isn't a problem then.
 

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So, good tracking = lighter mouse?
thumb.gif
It's heavy, no matter what. The wheel and wheel click is crap still.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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Originally Posted by jaffa2843 View Post

So, good tracking = lighter mouse?
thumb.gif
It's heavy, no matter what. The wheel and wheel click is crap still.
Like I said, the weight isn't a problem for me once the mouse is functioning properly because it flicks to target with very little effort. If the mouse isn't working properly, it will strain the hell out of your wrist and hand though because it requires too much work. I also use a hard pad and not cloth (speed side of rocketfish which is basically just a flat, black piece of plastic with little texture, gives lots of control with medium speed).

400 DPI with 1080p is also going to be a bad combination with any heavy mouse where it feels like titanic effort just to check your email. That DPI was better at CRT resolutions like 1024x768. I think we will see people move to something like 800 DPI @ 2560x1440 eventually.
 

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I can't feel any tracking issue on my g502, except the wheel is not perfect.
profile 1: 800dpi only, 1000hz
profile 2: 400/800/1600dpi, 1000hz
profile 3: disabled this profile
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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Originally Posted by Arxeal View Post

profile 3: disabled this profile
It's funny because when I disabled profile 3 a long time, it wouldn't let me re-enable it in the software...then the same profile gave me 500hz bug when setting it to 1000hz after I got it re-enabled somehow. Everything works fine on the mouse now though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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Originally Posted by CeeSA View Post

1st thank you. If I want to remap buttons to profiles, when and how should I do it?
None of the "Restore to default" options actually reset the buttons, so I didn't even touch them. They were already set to what I had earlier.
 

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I'm just happy that r0ach finally has a mouse he loves.
 

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I can confirm the bug that keeps switching the polling rate to the initial amount. I also did your debugging and strangely the mouse actually feels much better. What polling is best set on the g502? Can it do a stable 1000hz?
 

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i never noticed any issues with my g502 but want to test this.

my question - can i still keep multiple different dpi steps on profile 1 ? or must i only have 1 for your "fix" to "work" ?
 

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I'm going to try this method and hopefully it works. I'm really having a terrible time with the G502. I'm beginning to believe that it has acceleration. I've tried different DPI's already(6000, 4050, 3000, 1950, 1800, 1600, and now 800) and all of them will respond the same, sometimes the mouse sensor will feel very floaty and sometimes it feels so slow like I'm dragging the crosshair. And every time I aim I could see that my crosshair is overshooting the target especially when I'm moving the mouse fast and sideways. I cannot aim in small increments because of the stupid floaty feeling.

I only use Profile 1 but with different dpi's.

I wanna mention that I'm using a Taito and it might be incompatible with the G502. I play only CSGO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
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Originally Posted by mitavreb View Post

sometimes the mouse sensor will feel very floaty and sometimes it feels so slow like I'm dragging the crosshair
Yep, that's a perfect explanation of how the G502 is and probably why no pro gamers are using it. There is no telling what will happen when you save a profile, sometimes it's fast, sometimes it's sluggish. You have to have your computer already baselined out with other mice to figure out if the cursor is moving too fast or too slow to redo the profiles too.
 

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Well, I guess I can now say this mouse is truly
r0ach approved ™

But the software is Swamp software, right r0ach?
BTW I did these steps you outlined and there was no difference in feel or anything to me (also I couldn't replicate the bug with disabling profile 3...might guess it could have something to do with disabling a profile while it's active? Idk. But the software is NOT r0ach approved
smile.gif
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne View Post

Well, I guess I can now say this mouse is truly
r0ach approved ™

BTW I did these steps you outlined and there was no difference in feel or anything to me (also I couldn't replicate the bug with disabling profile 3)
same here. followed step by step still feels the same (felt great to begin with, though)

also had profile 2 and 3 disabled since day one and was able to re-enable them and disable them again just fine. didn't test polling rate consistencies but kept them all on 1000 since day one
 
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