try turning everything off and tilting your case to get the air bubble down to your res, though i cant see why the pump just didnt get rid of once it started flowing:s
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I assume you know that running a dry pump is bad news? Also, you may want to unhook one of the lines and try to prime the pump as much as possible. (as in, pouring coolant right down on tube trying to get as much fluid into the loop as possible before running the pump) This is usually no big deal if the fill (being either a res or a T line) is right before the inlet of the pump.
Also, do you know how to jump a PSU to run the pump by itself without firing up the whole system? You need to do this to bleed and leak test. If you fire up the rig and have low flow (or no flow) due to air, the CPU etc. can overheat.
Originally Posted by twitch101 the reason just turning the pump on wont move it is because the bubble runs all the way through the pump so it doesnt actually have any water to move. this is my first loop to so blegh im bound to have some troubles. |
Also, do you know how to jump a PSU to run the pump by itself without firing up the whole system? You need to do this to bleed and leak test. If you fire up the rig and have low flow (or no flow) due to air, the CPU etc. can overheat.
I'm running the same WB and pump with a 3 liter res, and here's the kind of bends my MasterKleer tubing allows(this is the other mobo in my loop):
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In a closed loop, height of items relative to each other doesn't come into play as far as how much pressure the pump can produce.
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The only thing that is really important for height placement is to make sure your res is higher than your pump so it can gravity feed the pump to reduce dry starts.
Originally Posted by twitch101 the only reason i ran my res before my gpu was because i didnt think i would be able to come down from my cpu into my gpu then back up to my res about 5 inches. would an mcp655 be able to do that? as far as restriction goes im not sure how this fares so i will list the parts im using. pump:mcp655 cpu: stinger v8 gpu: xspx razor 4870x2 rad: 480 gtx res: koolance 120mm all running on 1/2in barbs. if im going to end up rearranging im taking out my damn compression barbs. i hate them! there pretty but i cant seem to get them together in less than an hour |
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Originally Posted by twitch101 so rad has to be the lowest point? i have it on top of my haf 932 sideways. didnt think it would be an issue but may as well check. no where else the damn thing will fit. |
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It doesnt have tp be but it's so much easier so air doesnt get trapped. Titl your case so the barbs are higher than the other end of the rad and it should help work the air out of it. As for the pump I had the same issue. It's obnoxious and time consuming but pinching like Syr said and powering the pump on for short bursts works as well.
Originally Posted by twitch101 so rad has to be the lowest point? i have it on top of my haf 932 sideways. didnt think it would be an issue but may as well check. no where else the damn thing will fit. |
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Pump needs to be at lowest point possible and the res at the highest point;
if you run Res>>>Pump>>>Rad>>>Blocks>>>Res, the rad can be anywhere.
Originally Posted by twitch101 so rad has to be the lowest point? i have it on top of my haf 932 sideways. didnt think it would be an issue but may as well check. no where else the damn thing will fit. |
if you run Res>>>Pump>>>Rad>>>Blocks>>>Res, the rad can be anywhere.
its amazing how much easier it is to get rid of bubbles after moving the res before the pump. almost instantly all my air was out.
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leak testing right now and pics to come soon.
If all the tubes clamped an hour should suffice, but don't leave it run overnight in case it develops a weep.
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