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I decided to create this thread because I couldn't find any solution myself and it might help someone.

So I knew what galvanic corrosion is and how it was caused. For those who don't know, galvanic corrosion is a corrosion of a metal (a bit like rust) caused by a potential diffrence from two metals. For example a copper block and aluminium radiator won't work together. The aluminium eats away the copper.

I didn't mix any metals in my loop so I didn't have any corrosion blockers. It turns out I had mixed metals..
In the AquaComputer Kryographics Hawaii waterblock there is a little plate that covers the flow from the gpu cooling area to the vrm cooling area. Little did I know that plate was made from aluminium, and the block is copper..

After a while the block started turning black and I feared the worst. After taking it apart I confirmed it was indeed galvanic corrosion.

The damaged block:


I came to the idea of polishing the copper. So I went to the supermarket and got some copper polish, opened up the block and started polishing.
Note: I do not know if there is nickel polish for nickel blocks.

Polishing in progress (I used the toothbrush to get between the fins and hard to reach places. The rest is done with a rag.):


It took some time and I didn't get everything out but the end result was much better.

Finished block (the white stuff is just some condensation):


I put some thin copper plate between the aluminium and the block to prevent it from happening again.

So always pay attention to your watercooling components!
I hope this helped, if you have any questons just ask them!

EDIT: I found out in this thread that it is actually copper oxidation/tarnishing and it will happen over time anyway. It still can be fixed by polishing the copper or cleaning it.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

there is no aluminum in those blocks. copper and stainless steel is the only metal you will find.
It was non magnetic. So I am almost sure it was aluminium..
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

stainless steel is not magnetic. there is no aluminum in any ek or bitspower or koolance or swiftech or aquacomputer block, period. if it touches water, it is not aluminum.
Actually, some grades of stainless steel are magnetic.
 

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no nickle stainless is magnetic. it also isnt as resistant to corrosion. im a machinist who cuts,drills and taps stainless steel everyday.
not totally correct to say stainless isnt magnetic but the stainless used in waterblock isnt magnetic. it would be almost as bad as using plain steel. the fact remains, its stainless not aluminum.
 

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Ah I see. It could be stainless steel. Nevertheless the corrosion hasn't returned since and I didn't add anything to the water. So it seems that little plate was the problem. Weird that a watercooling company makes a block that is doomed to corrode..
 

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I've been suffering from this issue also with a similar aquacomputer kryographics block...

http://imgur.com/0Y8ZSdX

I've cleaned them twice in the past but it always comes back even after cleaning out the entire rig and replacing the tubing.

I'm no longer going to buy copper finish blocks and steering clear of aquacomputer too. Just purchased a nickel block for my new 980ti from EK.
 

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Realizing all of this thread is old except the last post...

That's just what copper does, can be very mild, or can be more of it - it seems to depend on the temperature.

I had that after few months:



Cleaned with vinegar and q-tips:



I'm seeing way less of this effect now that water temperature is lower (added more radiators) and I'm using Mayhem's X1.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteKnight View Post

I've been suffering from this issue also with a similar aquacomputer kryographics block...

http://imgur.com/0Y8ZSdX

I've cleaned them twice in the past but it always comes back even after cleaning out the entire rig and replacing the tubing.

I'm no longer going to buy copper finish blocks and steering clear of aquacomputer too. Just purchased a nickel block for my new 980ti from EK.
Just follow my "guide". Will be as good as new! I am dissapointed in this block too. The only time I saw an issue like this..
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmpxchg8b View Post

Realizing all of this thread is old except the last post...

That's just what copper does, can be very mild, or can be more of it - it seems to depend on the temperature.

I had that after few months:



Cleaned with vinegar and q-tips:



I'm seeing way less of this effect now that water temperature is lower (added more radiators) and I'm using Mayhem's X1.
That is interesting. The weird thing is. Temperature didn't really change and after covering up that metal plate with something the issue hasn't returned.
 

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Same thing with my aquacomputer block. This is just what copper does with long term contact with moisture. Cleaning off the oxidation will only cause another layer of metal to be sacrificed. This picture is 2.5 years after the installation of this block.

 

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That black stuff is oxidation. It will occur unless you can completely remove oxygen from your loop, which you can't. Over a long period of time the copper will turn completely black. You can remove it with various solutions (drain cleaner works quickest) but it will always come back. I just get acetyl covered blocks for that reason.

This is an example of galvanic corrosion:


See this thread for more:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1200435/my-apogee-gtx-fail-epic-example-of-galvanic-corrosion/0_30
 

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You can prevent copper blocks from turning black however you would need to switch to a non OAT auto based glycol coolant.

The non OAT types prevent corrosion/oxidisation by coating the metal surface with anti corrosive chemicals.

If you use such a coolant your copper blocks will remain shiny (internally) and not oxidise.
 

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Hi Folks
smile.gif


It's good to compare notes on this - I thought maybe I had done something wrong with the loop even though I was meticulous with not contaminating anything.

I currently have a silver kill coil and also Mayhems Biocide Extreme (1 drop) in my loop, I was concerned as I had read in some places that copper sulphate based solutions (such as Biocide) can assist corrosion? I've also read the same about mixing metals and as such having silver in a loop with copper...

Anyway these blocks are now removed and I sold one and decided to not give the new owner a blackened block so put it in a white spirit vinegar and salt solution for several hours until the black had dissolved and then gave it a good polishing with my favourite metal polish (autosol). Looks as good as new now! Will add some pictures later.

Cheers
 

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My mom uses "Copper Glow" for here copper-bottom Revere Ware pans. She's had them for almost 40 years and the copper looks brand-new on them. That stuff's intense, would probably remove that blackness in five seconds with a tooth brush! It comes in a little plastic tin. I think maybe it could be called "Twinkle" too.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klue22 View Post

That black stuff is oxidation. It will occur unless you can completely remove oxygen from your loop, which you can't. Over a long period of time the copper will turn completely black. You can remove it with various solutions (drain cleaner works quickest) but it will always come back. I just get acetyl covered blocks for that reason.
First thing I thought when I saw the pics in first post was that it is tarnish, not corrosion. Other than not being shiny copper colored, it won't harm anything, it's just the nature of copper.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgnex View Post

For example a copper block and aluminium radiator won't work together. The aluminium eats away the copper.
Actually, the reverse happens.. the aluminum is what gets chewed up.

Thread title really needs to be changed.. so misleading.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bahlzeron View Post

First thing I thought when I saw the pics in first post was that it is tarnish, not corrosion. Other than not being shiny copper colored, it won't harm anything, it's just the nature of copper.

Actually, the reverse happens.. the aluminum is what gets chewed up.

Thread title really needs to be changed.. so misleading.
According to EK themselves it is oxidation. This link says tarnish is a reaction of copper and oxygen which also indicates that tarnish is in fact oxidation. I read here that the corrosion layer is made up of metal ions plus oxygen or -get this- oxides. Which might indicate that the little plate I covered might have accelerated this problem.

With copper oxidation it first turns dull and then to grey. After that it turns black and finally to the famous green colour (as explained here). The black oxidation seems to be copper(II) oxide which is formed like this: 2 Cu + O2 → 2 CuO (read more here).

This site explained that the tarnish is caused by moisture and oxygen which are both inside the block. So the oxidation can't be stopped it seems. It can be solved to by polishing the copper.

You are right. I mixed them up. The aluminum is the anode and the copper the cathode.

I am sorry if the title mislead you. I was not aware of this issue so I might have chosen the title. A nicer choice of words would adorn you. I'll fix it.
 

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Guy's, It's common knowledge that Copper changes colour when exposed to Oxygen. Darkened Copper is nothing to worry about.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post

Guy's, It's common knowledge that Copper changes colour when exposed to Oxygen. Darkened Copper is nothing to worry about.
Doesn't look as nice though.. Especailly with a clear "block top" that might be an issue.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgnex View Post

Doesn't look as nice though.. Especailly with a clear "block top" that might be an issue.
That's why there are not a lot of clear top, copper blocks. Clear tops are mostly on plated blocks.
 
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