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<b><span style="font-size:x-large;"><span style="color:#FF0000;">This mod is no longer recommended and not supported by members of OCN. Perform at your own risk</span></span></b><br><br>
Didn't write this myself, but is dedicated to all the audiophiles (like myself! <img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" style="border:0px solid;" title="Big Grin"> ) who spend most of their time in front of a computer. Enjoy!<br><br><div style="margin:20px;margin-top:5px;">
<div class="smallfont" style="margin-bottom:2px;">Quote:</div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="99%"><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset;"><br><b>Hotrodding the X-Fi: A Layman's Guide (No 56k)</b> (cotdt)<br><br>
The X-Fi is without question the best gaming card, but the sound quality is average at best. As someone who is used to high end external DACs with discrete output, to me the sound quality of the X-Fi can be best described as "low-fi". But rest assured X-Fi owners, we can make it far better! I actually prefer the fully hotrodded X-Fi XtremeMusic over the Benchmark DAC1. Yes, that's what I just said =). It matches the dynamics and detail of the DAC1, but with a wider soundstage, less fatigue, and far more musicality it's not even comparable.<br><br>
This guide works for sound cards in general and not only the X-Fi, but X-Fi is the most logical choice because of its versatility.<br><br>
Tools needed:<br>
Solder iron ($2) (I used Hakko 936 but any iron will work)<br>
Solder wick (helps remove stock opamp)<br>
Thin solder (only a little is needed)<br>
LM4562 SOIC (free samples from National Semiconductor)<br>
Blackgate 2200uF 16V (from <a href="http://www.partsconnexion.com" target="_blank">www.partsconnexion.com</a> or <a href="http://www.percyaudio.com" target="_blank">www.percyaudio.com</a>)<br>
ERS Paper (from Partsconnexion or Percy Audio)<br>
X-Fi card (which ones? <a href="http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2807534&postcount=122" target="_blank">http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...&postcount=122</a>)<br><br>
A sound card consists of a DSP, a DAC chip, and an analog output stage that consists of opamps. Opamps and capacitors are the two worst offenders of sound quality. With any soundcard you can change these opamps to far better ones, remove capacitors no longer needed due to the better opamp, and give it more power by increasing the size of the power supply filter capacitors on the sound card. The sound card also sits inside a computer which is full of EMI radiation that introduces noise and degrades sound quality (especially treble). That's why audiophiles use external DACs. But now you have better shielding technology so it's no longer an issue. You can put a silicon carbide/nickel board on the back of the card. Alternatively, there is this thing called ERS paper that is much easier to apply. Basically, you can do what this guy did:<br><a href="http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=141880" target="_blank">http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=141880</a><br><br>
You should still mount the sound card as far away from the video card as you can. The lowest PCI slot should be used if possible. For music, use bit-matched playback in Audio Creation Mode.<br><br>
Summary:<br>
(1) Replace the stock JRC NJM4556 opamp with LM4562 SOIC<br>
(2) Replace the sound card's power supply capacitors with larger ones that are at least several times the original value. Quality matters, especially specs like ripple current. Blackgates were chosen for this application, but Nichicon KG would also be an excellent choice due to its specs.<br>
(3) Apply the ERS Paper onto the back of the sound card. You need a layer of insulating material between the sound card and the ERS paper since it's electrically conductive.<br><br><img alt="" src="http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/9127/slabeledal7.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"><br>
The mods make a HUGE difference. It's definately worth doing. And it's very easy to do especially with this guide. Takes less than an hour and doesn't cost much money.<br><br>
Specs<br>
X-Fi XtremeMusic, Platinum, Fatal1ty FPS, and XtremeGamer uses a JRC NJM4556 opamp for the main channels and three ST4558 opamps for the surrounds. They utilize the CS4382 DAC, which we will prove is a very good DAC. The X-Fi Elite Pro uses the JRC NJM2114 opamp for the main, three JRC NJM2068 for the surrounds, and the even better CS4398 DAC, which is the same DAC used in the Lynx, E-MU 1820, Headroom MicroDAC, Musiland MD10, Zhaolu 2.5C and other high end DACs. As you can see, these are good DACs. With these mods, even the "lowly" XtremeMusic will blow them all out of the water.<br><br>
Impressions of the stock X-Fi XtremeMusic is that it is muddy-sounding, has a plasticky tone that lacks weight, lacks bass impact due to loose-sounding boomy bass. Background is fairly quiet due to a good board layout. Midrange detail is good but not great, while dynamics and soundstage leave much to be desired. I also have a hard time making out the notes when several instruments are playing. There is also not much texture to the instruments. Better DACs have a resonant quality to them that mimicks real life sounds, and the X-Fi lacks it. Still, the X-Fi is better than the vast majority of comsumer sound cards like low-end M-Audios and the Audigy series. It is also better than any portable player I've heard, but that's not saying much.<br><br>
Enter the National Semiconductor LM4562<br>
The LM4562 is a new opamp specifically designed for audio application and that's why it's a league above all other opamps for audio. Pretty much everyone I know who has used this opamp has been amazed by it. At the time of this writing, it's a league above the best OPA and LT and AD opamps I've tried. It has a PSRR (power supply rejection ratio) and CMRR (common-mode rejection ratio) above 120dB, so it doesn't care about the poor quality power that computer sound cards get! This will give sound cards that use them an edge over all DACs except ones that use an expensive discrete analog output.<br><br>
From <a href="http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM4562.html:" target="_blank">http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM4562.html:</a><br>
To ensure that the most challenging loads are driven without compromise, the LM4562 has a high slew rate of ±20V/µs and an output current capability of ±26mA. Further, dynamic range is maximized by an output stage that drives 2k loads to within 1V of either power supply voltage and to within 1.4V when driving 600 loads.<br><br>
One thing about the NJM4556 opamp is that it's a weird size longer than the usual SOIC opamp, but the card itself supports the smaller SOIC standard just fine. I cut off the NJM4556, desoldered the remains using a copper wick, and soldered on the LM4562. Make sure it's in the original orientation, which you can tell by the lettering.<br><br><img alt="" src="http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3834/lm4562fingeral2.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"><br>
Pretty small, but still easy enough to solder.<br><br><img alt="" src="http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/22/desolderedao6.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"><br>
The NJM4556 has been removed. It's a terrible opamp and deserves to die.<br><br><img alt="" src="http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/5692/lm4562installedto7.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"><br>
Put the card back in and notice the massive transformation. There are too many improvements to describe for this one! If you use the surround sound, you can also replace those three with LM4562 as well. The M33078 is the input opamp, and that can also be replaced if you do recording.<br><br><img alt="" src="http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/6388/blackgatewc4.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"><br>
Next up we will replace the power filter capacitor. The 470uF Jamicon that Creative uses has a record for failing and leaking brown crap. We will replace this with a 2200uF 16V Blackgate and hotglue it in place. Make sure the orientation is correct if using polar capacitors. Even if you're not a beleiver in changing power filter caps, the Blackgate has 1/5 of the ESR as other capacitors, excellent ripple current results, and is one of the only electrolytic capacitors that last nearly forever, as in dozens of lifetimes longer than other electrolytics. Nichicon KG would also be an excellent choice due to its specs. Anyway, the effect of this mod is tighter bass and greater warmth. I say that the choice of capacitor does matter. Take a listen before the next mod. This is essential because the next mod changes the sound signature and you may or may not like the change.<br><br><img alt="" src="http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/8388/backsideba2.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"><br>
We will now shield the DAC chip, DSP chip, opamps, and the entire backside of the soundcard. There are many options, from Texas Instruments to ERS Paper. This is not snake oil. Shielding really makes a difference. I used ERS Paper, which is electrically conductive so you need an insulation layer between it and the sound card. This mod made the sound noticeably warmer and more analogue-sounding. The digital, hyper-detailed sound is now gone and some will miss it. You will notice it right away and would probably want to turn up the volume since now it is less fatiguing. Who would have thought that shielding makes such a big difference?<br><br>
Update: After 20 hours, the sound has changed from the Blackgates burning in (previously it was too warm). Now I definately think that the shielding paper should be used. The LM4562 will eventually be renamed to the LME4986. Just giving you guys a heads up.<br><br>
Other Mods:<br>
The X-Fi uses Jamicon capacitors, which are known to either fail or deviate very significantly from their specs over time. A complete recap is not unreasonable. You can buy Panasonics from Digikey, or Nichicons from Percy Audio.<br><br>
There are other mods but I don't have the schematics to the X-Fi so I don't know how to apply them. If others discover new mods I can add them to the list.<br><br>
Short the 22uF caps near each opamp (there are 4 of them for each one). I definately recommend it as others beside myself also think that shorting improves the detail and realism, with no ill effects on the card. They seem to be decoupling caps, not coupling caps, and make the DAC more stable. Not needed though, it's perfectly stable without them.<br><br>
More pictures by Nicker:<br><a href="http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2846838&postcount=297" target="_blank">http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...&postcount=297</a><br><br>
Professional Modders:<br>
Contact me and I'll put your handle here as a professional modder.</td>
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BTW guys, here's another little recommendation from bichi:<br><br><div style="margin:20px;margin-top:5px;">
<div class="smallfont" style="margin-bottom:2px;">Quote:</div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="99%"><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset;"><b>trikosuave,</b><br>
- Depends on which X-FI model you have: SB0460 (Music, Fatality) or SB0550 (Elite, Pro)<br>
- Don't expect much sound quality improvement, changing filter cap C177 (SB0460) / C161 (SB0550) for CA20K1 DSP.<br>
(see <b>Catx's</b> excellent post and comment on C177 filter cap: <a href="http://www.head-fi.org/forums/3694789-post1467.html" target="_blank">http://www.head-fi.org/forums/3694789-post1467.html</a>)<br>
- For basic changes, see below, per model number:<br>
- for more detailed changes, see: <a href="http://www.esnips.com/web/X-FIOpAmpandCapModification/" target="_blank">X-FI Op Amp and Cap Modification eSnips Folder</a><br><br><b>SB0460:</b> (Music, Fatality)<br>
a) coupling caps, (Front: C23, C50, C76, C77)<br>
b) C46 +5vdc supply to opamps: Panasonic FM or FC, 330uf @ 16 or 25vdc<br>
c) C72 -5vdc supply to opamps: Panasonic FM or FC, 68uf @ 16 or 25vdc<br><br>
SB0460 Part Location Reference Only:<br><a href="http://www.esnips.com/doc/14278041-4e54-45bc-8d4f-bfde09719633/X-FI-MOD-070b" target="_blank">X-FI-MOD-070b - eSnips, share anything</a><br><br><img alt="" src="http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/6343/142780414e5445bc8d4fbfdom7.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"><br><br><b>SB0550:</b> (Elite, Pro)<br>
a) coupling caps, (Front: C45, C58, C35, C49)<br>
b) C104, C133 +/-12vdc supply to opamps: Panasonic FM or FC, 330uf @ 16 or 25vdc<br>
c) C55 +5vdc Va supply to DACs: Panasonic FM or FC, 68uf @ 16 or 25vdc<br>
d) C6 +5vdc Va to AK5394 ADC: Kemet 22uf TANT @ 25vdc<br><br>
SB0550 Part Location Reference Only:<br><a href="http://www.esnips.com/doc/c8b7ada7-bc48-42c5-b5fa-e2e9b7fc2271/X-FI-MOD-084b" target="_blank">X-FI-MOD-084b - eSnips, share anything</a><br><br><img alt="" src="http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/618/cdn3319a7310vd3.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"></td>
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<div style="margin:20px;margin-top:5px;">
<div class="smallfont" style="margin-bottom:2px;">Quote:</div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="99%"><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset;"><span style="font-size:300%;"><span style="color:#FF0000;"><b>THE X-FI CARDS THAT SHOULD BE AVOIDED:</b></span></span><br>
-X-Fi XtremeAudio<br>
-X-Fi XtremeGamer<br>
-Any of the low-profile X-Fis<br><br><span style="font-size:xx-large;"><b>THE GOOD ONES TO GET:</b></span><br>
X-Fi Elite Pro<br>
X-Fi Fatal1ty FPS<br>
X-Fi Platinum<br>
X-Fi XtremeMusic (best value)<br><br><span style="font-size:xx-large;"><b>ONES I AM UNSURE ABOUT</b></span>:<br>
X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Professional Series<br>
This is one of the new ones. The other new ones are the XtremeAudio and XtremeGamer, which are both low profile. The low profile models do not support digital out (not easily, anyway), and they use lower quality components. The XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Professional Series is also new, but it is not low profile. If it is based on the same model as the good ones, it would be OK, but I don't know if it is. So it would be best to just avoid it.</td>
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Brendan<br><br>
EDIT: original thread at head-fi: <a href="http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f46/hotrodding-x-fi-laymans-guide-no-56k-226975/" target="_blank">http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f46/ho...no-56k-226975/</a>
 

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Damn, very nice. I wonder if you can do that with the smaller profile cards. Wish I had enough balls to undertake a project like that.
 

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<div style="margin:20px;margin-top:5px;">
<div class="smallfont" style="margin-bottom:2px;">Quote:</div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="99%"><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset;">
<div>Originally Posted by <strong>FlaKing</strong> <a href="showthread.php?s=453b4c90ea6adb23f310222044b120df&p=2087246#post2087246"><img alt="View Post" class="inlineimg" src="http://static.overclock.net//img/forum/go_quote.gif" style="border:0px solid;"></a></div>
<div style="font-style:italic;">Damn, very nice. I wonder if you can do that with the smaller profile cards. Wish I had enough balls to undertake a project like that.</div>
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Nope, here's a complete list:<br><br><div style="margin:20px;margin-top:5px;">
<div class="smallfont" style="margin-bottom:2px;">Quote:</div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="99%"><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset;"><span style="font-size:300%;"><span style="color:#FF0000;"><b>THE X-FI CARDS THAT SHOULD BE AVOIDED:</b></span></span><br>
-X-Fi XtremeAudio<br>
-X-Fi XtremeGamer<br>
-Any of the low-profile X-Fis<br><br><span style="font-size:xx-large;"><b>THE GOOD ONES TO GET:</b></span><br>
X-Fi Elite Pro<br>
X-Fi Fatal1ty FPS<br>
X-Fi Platinum<br>
X-Fi XtremeMusic (best value)<br><br><span style="font-size:xx-large;"><b>ONES I AM UNSURE ABOUT</b></span>:<br>
X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Professional Series<br>
This is one of the new ones. The other new ones are the XtremeAudio and XtremeGamer, which are both low profile. The low profile models do not support digital out (not easily, anyway), and they use lower quality components. The XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Professional Series is also new, but it is not low profile. If it is based on the same model as the good ones, it would be OK, but I don't know if it is. So it would be best to just avoid it.</td>
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BRendan
 
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I wish I have the B477$ to do that... My hands are too shaky for stuff like that. Nice find though!
 
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I would LOVE to do this. Unfortunately I dont have so called "surgon hands".<br><br>
I could do the cap, I dunno about the opamp though.
 

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Just so you guys know, Soloz does this kind of stuff in a business. I believe he sells both pre-modded cards and modding services. I know I'm gonna talk to him about modding my XtremeMusic this summer, I'm no good at soldering. <img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" style="border:0px solid;" title="Big Grin">
 

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<div class="smallfont" style="margin-bottom:2px;">Quote:</div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="99%"><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset;">
<div>Originally Posted by <strong>Namrac</strong> <a href="showthread.php?s=453b4c90ea6adb23f310222044b120df&p=2087315#post2087315"><img alt="View Post" class="inlineimg" src="http://static.overclock.net//img/forum/go_quote.gif" style="border:0px solid;"></a></div>
<div style="font-style:italic;">Just so you guys know, Soloz does this kind of stuff in a business. I believe he sells both pre-modded cards and modding services. I know I'm gonna talk to him about modding my XtremeMusic this summer, I'm no good at soldering. <img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" style="border:0px solid;" title="Big Grin"></div>
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I believe he only does the modding part, since only interconnects are sold on his site.<br><br>
Brendan
 

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I will do it.<br><br>
But does it really improve sound quality greatly?
 

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I would do this, except the shielding looks..pretty bad..<br><br>
Is there any other more, aesthetically pleasing method?
 

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Ok, I just put in my purchase for the <b><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16829102005" target="_blank">X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro Series ar Newegg</a></b> for $140, and if you help me out here I will let you guys know how these mods work on it. From the looks of it, it seems to be the same card with different processors... so all the stuff should apply. ::crossing fingers::<br><br>
I had to buy one now so as to have good playback, NOW. I start editing a movie the 15th... but what I really want is a modded card. I found the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325&tag=overclockdotnet-20&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Foffer-listing%2FB000AY7A1I%3Fie%3DUTF8%26condition%3Dnew%26tag%3Ddealtime-ce-mpfeed-20%26creative%3D380345%26creativeASIN%3DB000AY7A1I%26linkCode%3Dasm" target="_blank">X-Fi XtremeMusic at Amazon</a> for $60 refurbished and $85 new, but since I don't know how it sounds off the bat I decided to get the newer one so my sound is ok if I don't get to modd it before I start editing.<br><br>
Did you place the orders by phone? What was your grand total $ spent?<br><br>
Should I expect a boost on performance from the audio processing being handled by the card?<br><br>
You said to mount cards down low away from video cards, but what about the ones that have the PSU in the bottom? Does that still apply?<br><br>
I will replace the input opamp for sure and I could record clips of the before and after to post here for you guys to get an idea of what these tiny suckers do! <img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="/images/smilies/smile.gif" style="border:0px solid;" title="Smile">
 

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<div style="margin:20px;margin-top:5px;">
<div class="smallfont" style="margin-bottom:2px;">Quote:</div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="99%"><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset;">
<div>Originally Posted by <strong>USlatin</strong> <a href="showthread.php?s=453b4c90ea6adb23f310222044b120df&p=2088191#post2088191"><img alt="View Post" class="inlineimg" src="http://static.overclock.net//img/forum/go_quote.gif" style="border:0px solid;"></a></div>
<div style="font-style:italic;">come on! just do it... it is a purpose driven task... <img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="/images/smilies/smile.gif" style="border:0px solid;" title="Smile"><br><br>
What card is that one in the post pictures?<br><br>
I want to do it but I don't know which card to buy?<br><br>
I have to buy one so as to have good playback NOW cause I start editing a movie the 15th... but I want to mod it later... can you give us links to the places to buy the stuff? or maybe a link to a modder that could ship me one ready to go this week?<br><br>
You said to mount cards down low away from video cards, but what about the ones that have the PSU in the bottom? Does that still apply?</div>
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X-Fi Elite Pro<br>
X-Fi Fatal1ty FPS<br>
X-Fi Platinum<br>
X-Fi XtremeMusic There's the cards that work.
 

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<div style="margin:20px;margin-top:5px;">
<div class="smallfont" style="margin-bottom:2px;">Quote:</div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="99%"><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset;">
<div>Originally Posted by <strong>D3DAiM</strong> <a href="showthread.php?s=453b4c90ea6adb23f310222044b120df&p=2087645#post2087645"><img alt="View Post" class="inlineimg" src="http://static.overclock.net//img/forum/go_quote.gif" style="border:0px solid;"></a></div>
<div style="font-style:italic;">I would do this, except the shielding looks..pretty bad..<br><br>
Is there any other more, aesthetically pleasing method?</div>
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I'm not sure if it would work, but couldn't you paint one of the sides of the EMI paper black?
 

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<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="99%"><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset;">
<div>Originally Posted by <strong>gonX</strong> <a href="showthread.php?s=453b4c90ea6adb23f310222044b120df&p=2088222#post2088222"><img alt="View Post" class="inlineimg" src="http://static.overclock.net//img/forum/go_quote.gif" style="border:0px solid;"></a></div>
<div style="font-style:italic;">I'm not sure if it would work, but couldn't you paint one of the sides of the EMI paper black?</div>
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That sounds great... or just apply black gaffer tape to it<br><br>
Hey Chapstick, sorry about the editing after you replied, I didn't realize people were still up.<br><br>
Yea, I saw the list of modding certified cards, but as I mentioned it in my edit to the post I need something good now... and with the cheapest card being $80 and this new one $140 I though I should just go for it and be the one to verify if the mod works or not... I'll examine it, take 8MP pics of it and post them for the experts to look at... and if it won't work I'll RMA it.
 

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I've been modding the x-fis on an individual basis for head-fi members if they ask me to, but no I haven't put anything up on my site.<br><br>
I've also changed the mod a little bit for my card and the few cards I've done for others.<br>
Instead of shorting the decoupling caps I replace them with higher quality audio-grade caps. Any cap in the audio path will degrade SQ, but I chose to do this for 2 reasons. 1. upgrading will yeild better SQ then stock and 2. keeping the caps there helps protect against DC offset. Even a little bit of DC offset if connected to an amp w/o DC offset protection will grow exponentially and can cause serious damage to headphones or speakers. Plus many people power headphones directly out of the x-fi jacks.<br>
I also use a 1000uf Blackgate for the Power position because it simply is not necessary to use a 2200uf cap there. The smaller cap still gives all the benefits of having a better and larger cap without some of the potential problems of having such a large cap on a sound card that wasn't designed for that much capacitance.<br><br>
Here's my x-fi with stereo mods<br><a href="http://img101.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img3155ba6.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/8083/img3155ba6.th.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"></a><br><br><br>
oh, and for those of you concerned about the grayish looking ERS paper being visible through your case window... I'm working on something to make it look a little better. I'm out of glue though so I have to wait until next week. I'm probably going to use it on the back (top) of my x-fi and on top of my PSU since it sits below my x-fi
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Actually, if you're afariad to mod your card, you can always opt for the HT Omega Claro Plus. It is a high-end card for a very not-high-end price. Its opamp performs virtually the same as the LM4562, so you can expect similar performance between it and the X-Fi card (modded).<br><br>
Brendan
 

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Very nice... a project to look foward too. With all the hardware changes, there won't be any driver issue... correct?<br><br>
EMI paper = Faraday Cage = mesh paper ?
 

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<div>Originally Posted by <strong>DuckieHo</strong> <a href="showthread.php?s=453b4c90ea6adb23f310222044b120df&p=2088842#post2088842"><img alt="View Post" class="inlineimg" src="http://static.overclock.net//img/forum/go_quote.gif" style="border:0px solid;"></a></div>
<div style="font-style:italic;">Very nice... a project to look foward too. With all the hardware changes, there won't be any driver issue... correct?<br><br>
EMI paper = Faraday Cage = mesh paper ?</div>
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No, there are no driver changes, the cards work just fine w/o even a reinstall.<br><br>
I use ERS paper.<br><a href="http://www.tnt-audio.com/accessories/ers_cloth_e.html" target="_blank">http://www.tnt-audio.com/accessories/ers_cloth_e.html</a><br><br><br>
It is pretty spendy though.... $20 a sheet plus shipping. (I've got 3 sheets sitting next to me <img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" style="border:0px solid;" title="Big Grin">)
 

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How much ching does this project require?<br><br>
If I don't have much experience with soldering, should I even consider trying this?
 
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