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Discussion Starter #1
So I've been in the planning stage of a new project for about 2-3 weeks. During that time I've looked at literally hundreds of worklogs and purchased a number of products (Thank you college grant money). I wasn't originally intending to do a worklog but in an effort to give back to a community from whom I've taken back, I will keep one.

My current rig is a Silverstone Raven RV02-B housing an ASUS P6X58D-e, i7 930, 2x GTX 470s in SLI, H50, 6Gb DDR3-1600, BFG EX-1200. To quiet the system down, since I'm an incessant tinkerer, enjoy projects, and love tech, and because it looks freaking sick, I'll be going water on the next rig.
Many people had advised me on upgrading the case. I bought the Raven two months ago and was originally very reluctant to do so. But finally, at Microcenter, who was having a sale on the Corsair 800D for $240, I acquiesced. So to sum up the parts I've got over the past few weeks:

Watercooling:
MCR-320QP Radiator
MCR-220QP Radiator
MCP-655-b Pump
EK D5 X-Top Rev. 2
EK Multioption 250ml Advanced Rev. 2 Reservoir
Swiftech MicroRes Rev.2
2x EK FC-GTX-470 GPU Blocks (Nickel/Plexi)
Swiftech Apogee XT CPU Block
XSPC Dual Bay Res/Pump (X2O 750)
2 1000ml Bottles of Feser One UV (Purple)
2 1000ml Bottles of Primochill Ice UV (Steel Blue)
10' Primochill LRT UV Blue 7/16"ID 5/8" OD
10' Primochill LRT Black 7/16"ID 5/8" OD
20 Bitspower Shining Silver 1/2" ID Barbs
2 Bitspower Rotary 1/2" ID Barbs
1 Danger Den Blue Anodized Fill Port
2 Gallons Distilled Water
2 Gallons Distilled Vinegar
Danger Den Syringe
D Plug for SLI Connection

MODDING
Dremel 300i
Sunbeam PSU mod tools (My hands are tore up from using other methods and wires I've practiced on have often needed new connectors and soldering)
Lian Li Universal Drive Cover C-02B
100' 1/8" Clean Cut Via Furryletters
50' 1/4" Clean Cut Via Furryletters
Assortment of Aquamarine/Black Sleeving from MDPC
**One note I would add here: Over the past 4 months I've spent an obscene amount of sleeving from all around the net. I really didn't want to pay the premium for MDPC sleeving. Well, I've paid for it. Most of the stuff was unusuable and will never see the light of day. The only stuff I found that was worth a damn (and won't show a yellow wire underneath) was Furryletters Clean Cut sleeving on eBay.**

OTHER HARDWARE
Corsair 800D
Creative X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty
Lamptron FC6
3x Yate Loon 120mm D12DB (At school now, will check when I get home)
4x Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm (1450RPM)

So the plan is to create two loops:
LOOP 1 (CPU Loop)
Danger Den Fillport -> EK Multioption 250ml -> MCP-655-b -> MCR-220QP -> Apogee XT -> EK Multioption 250ml

LOOP 2 (GPU Loop)
XPSC Dual Bay Res/Pump -> MCR-320 -> GPU 0 -> GPU-1 -> GPU-2 -> XPSC Dual Bay Res/Pump

So that's the plan. Over the coming weeks I'm going to be stocking up on my understanding of photography. I've ordered a 53" Tripod and hopefully my Canon 590 IS will be up to the task. If not, well, there are ways around that. One of the great things about the most notable worklogs I've gone through (builds from Laine, Charles h) are the pics. I would love to be able to show off my work as well as them, but I'll settle for takings pics that aren't blurry.
I've also been moving things around in the room that the computers are housed. I've taken out a couch and purchased a few more Galant desk parts to add to my collection. New rug, clock, intense cleaning and wire management all figured heavily into the process.
Any advice/change to the loops would be welcomed. I will need to get some experience with the dremel before taking it to my 800D for the bottom 220 radiator placement. Actually I'll need a ton of experience before I'm comfortable taking a power tool to my $250 case.

Final note I'd like to make is to explain the project name. I have seen so many rigs with almost identical hardware and identical finished projects. Usually deviating from these proven methods comes out looking bad, to me, least. There are very few builders that can do this. I am *not* one of them, not yet at least. Hell I'm even scared to use compression fittings for fear of leaks. So I'm a realist, and I realize I'll be reusing a lot of ideas in similar worklogs. I'm open to a new title once the idea starts taking shape, and hopefully I can start working in some original ideas. But for now it's plagiarism, plain and simple, just without the F and the meeting with the Dean.

CURRENT PROGRESS




 

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Discussion Starter #2
I do! I just had to wait until the post was approved to actually post in the thread. 6-7 updates coming up:
So here's how the room was 3 months ago:


And here's how it is now:



Here's the stuff that's been delivered:


The Beast I'll be working with:


And I'm still waiting on some parts.
Vandal Resistant Bulgin Latching Switch for CCFLs
5mm LEDs
Needle File
More Heatshrink
M4 Tap
A few others I cant think of...

At the time I took this pic, my 320 rad was in the garage after being painted. Well, apparently I didn't move it over far enough, because coming back from home depot this morning, I pulled in the garage, I felt a distinct bump. Sort like when you run a hobo over but to avoid having it come back to bite you in the ass you back up over him a little at low speed. Well my rad is deformed but not severely. I'll try a c clamp but I'm not sure it won't leak now and the fan holes might be useless.
 

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So the res is airtight....the fan holes didn't align but I took care of that. Hammer and c-clamp style. Had to mod the dualbay to fit it in the 800D:


I realize it's upside down. Just a mockup really...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also worked on some cable management today, and cleaned up.


All those wires will be off the floor sometime between now and sunday night.
 

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MDPC sleeving arrived today, did some leak testing overnight.







I think that's a much better size for the pics. What do you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Updates
So first I did some leak testing. Because I didn't want to cut up my Primochill Black any more than was necessary I used a small piece of clear. It was showing a lot of bubbles even after bleeding as best I could. Do you guys know how to get rid of that?



Next I used my Raven RV02 because the 800D hasn't been modified yet for the bottom 240 Rad. But oh wait! I can't find the package from one of the EK GPU Blocks containing the cardboard spacer, the metal bracket which goes around the die, the plastic spacers and screws to hold it on!?! I assume it wasn't in the package. Well I had both cards on the chopping block ready to go, so I just installed one and I'll email EK and PPCS, hopefully one of them can help me out. The system is running fine (knock on wood) and hopefully I won't have any problems. I really like the way the block shows the fluid. Varrr nice.




 

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Looking good!

Re. the bubbles: I suspect they are the result of the new clear tubing you used. I've experienced similar using that tubing for aquariums. The tubing has an film when new and seems to cause bubbles to form on the surface. They usually go a way pretty quick, w/in a day or so depending on flow rate. If it bothers you, you might try washing the tubing first with warm soapy water and pill a small piece of cloth through the tubing.
 

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Another update. Found my second EK bracket hiding in my closet, and really wanted my 3rd display back which meant draining (for the first time in a live loop) and refilling. All went smoothly (I think) aside from sustaining a minor injury while using a pliers to pull a 1/2" barb from a 7/16" tube. The pliers slipped, my thumb was in the worst possible place and the skin turned purple in literally seconds. Pics to follow.

First an image of the block that was in use over the past 24 hours. The loop was using Feser One UV Purple. The block looks like it has cracked or the coolant damaged the acrylic. Does anyone know what this is about?



Next I'm leak testing with both cards installed. By the way EK emailed me within a few hours to set up a replacement for the metal bracket and screws which I found. Good customer service.





I have no clamps but no leaks either (yet) but I've read multiple times that 7/16" ID tubing on 1/2" barbs doesn't require clamps. The GPUs are connected with a D-Plug which I think looks very nice. Finally my thumb. It hurts. Bad. This image was taken 2-3 minutes after the mishap, and it's even worse now. So word to the wise: if you really want to use pliers to pull off a stubborn fitting make sure your thumb is not in the way when they slip.



On a side note, I'm very impressed with the temps on only a 240 rad! 53C 51C on the gpus during a vantage run. Don't know how this compares with others' builds but it's a good 40C lower than air. And totally quiet, which is new to me.
 

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Looks like it's coming along very well.
EK is awesome. Looking forward to watching this take shape.
 
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I'm very impressed with the temps on only a 240 rad! 53C 51C on the gpus during a vantage run. Don't know how this compares with others' builds but it's a good 40C lower than air. And totally quiet, which is new to me.
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jadawgis732 View Post
I'm very impressed with the temps on only a 240 rad! 53C 51C on the gpus during a vantage run. Don't know how this compares with others' builds but it's a good 40C lower than air. And totally quiet, which is new to me.
Those are very good temps!
I'm folding with my CPU and it heats up my idle GPUs to temps past yours.
I think I need to invest in a 320x320 square rad.

 

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love the mousepad!!!! biggest freaking one ive ever seen and i want!!! like the room to. plenty of space dedicated for computers
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by investinwaffles View Post
The Deskpad is an X Trac Pads Ripper XXL ($20 from directron
)
What would be the most elegant solution for connecting multiple fans to a single psu connector? I'm thinking something along the lines of a terminal strip?
 

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That or a fan controller.
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MacG32 View Post
Those are very good temps!
I'm folding with my CPU and it heats up my idle GPUs to temps past yours.
I think I need to invest in a 320x320 square rad.

Geez they actually make those? I always thought I was looking at 3 320s in the past.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MacG32 View Post
That or a fan controller.

You know, I have a FC6 sitting on my desk. I don't know why I didn't think of that....is it okay if, for instance, on the 360 rad, I solder the red and black wires from all three fans to a single red and black wire and take a yellow from the fan closest to the fan controller, and run those three wires to a single input on the FC6? Would I be able to get accurate RPM readings and adjust appropriately from that? I'd do the same thing on the 240 Rad fans if that seems correct.
 

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RPM readings will not work as you wish, but otherwise that will work perfectly

Double check that your FC6 can handle the load on a single fan header!
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jadawgis732 View Post
How would they work correctly?
By using just 1 yellow wire from 1 fan, for rpm reading.
If that's what you meant.


More info found here.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
UPDATE: Sleeving FC6 Leads

So as I said in the first post I've spent a lot on sleeving over the past few months, since I was reluctant to pay the premium for MDPC sleeve. So much so that I've had to get a bin to store all the sleeve in:



The only good sleeve I did find in my frenzy of clicking the submit order button were "Clean Cut Sleeve" on eBay from the seller FURRYLETTERS. That stuff is great. But I did eventually break down and order some MDPC sleeve. I did this for two reasons. The first was to see what sizes "small" sleeve and "sata" sleeve were. The second was because I could never find clean cut sleeve in anything but black. Well now that I have the sleeve in my hands I can show you it next to clean cut sleeve.


Want to take a guess as to which is which? I couldn't notice a difference either. The only way I was able to differentiate is that the MDPC sleeve was secured by a black zip tie and FURRYLETTERS secures her stuff with a white one.

Random Shots:





Here is the fan controller leads I've made using 1/8" clean cut and some SATA cables sleeved in 1/4" clean cut. Since I couldn't notice a difference between MDPC sleeve and the clean cut stuff I went ahead and used clean cut for the fan controller leads, since I got 100' of it for like $16 shipped. I hope Nils won't mind my post here, I won't post it anywhere else, so as not to give it too much exposure. If Nils wants me to take it down I will. I understand that this may be some secret sauce which is kind of like intellectual property in that it is perhaps a trade secret.





Two tips I would have for beginners are first, when you have the cable sleeved and the two pieces of heatshrink on and ready to go, don't jump the gun. Put the connector back on first so that the heatshrink can be slid down accordingly. Second, stretch out the sleeve to it's limit before tightening the heatshrink. Apparently that "closes the weave structure." I only learned both today, so the SATA cables weren't done using the latter method.
 
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