A 15° improvement is a bit lofty unless you have an extremely concave/convex HS, however I will never again install a HS without first lapping it. I have seen improvements from 5 to 11° with various lapping projects. In the case of the 11° improvement the HS was noticeably convex and it took for what seemed like forever to get it flat. Yes the procedure is basically the same as lapping a CPU.
lapping questions?
i just bought a tuniq tower, and im curious because i heard that if its lapped, it can reduce temps up to 15 degrees C. Is this true? oh, and is lapping a heatsink the same as lapping a cpu? Refer to my sig rig, oh and i haven't gotten the tower yet, but when i do, im considering lapping it, so any info would be appreciated
![]()
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Quote:
Agreed. When I got my Big Typhoon , I didnt even try to mount it until I had lapped it. It was noticeably concave. Next time I lap one that is that far off, i'll start with a 150 or 200 grit to get it flat. As for improvements, well it dropped my load temps considerably, how much exactly is unknown because I never let it get above 65*C now it under full load it doesnt go over 59/60*C
Originally Posted by Re-Evolution A 15° improvement is a bit lofty unless you have an extremely concave/convex HS, however I will never again install a HS without first lapping it. I have seen improvements from 5 to 11° with various lapping projects. In the case of the 11° improvement the HS was noticeably convex and it took for what seemed like forever to get it flat. Yes the procedure is basically the same as lapping a CPU. |
Agreed. When I got my Big Typhoon , I didnt even try to mount it until I had lapped it. It was noticeably concave. Next time I lap one that is that far off, i'll start with a 150 or 200 grit to get it flat. As for improvements, well it dropped my load temps considerably, how much exactly is unknown because I never let it get above 65*C now it under full load it doesnt go over 59/60*C
Quote:
k thanks man! so, the grits i have are 600,1000,1500, and 2500. What other grits should i get? the 250?
Originally Posted by BlackOmega Agreed. When I got my Big Typhoon , I didnt even try to mount it until I had lapped it. It was noticeably concave. Next time I lap one that is that far off, i'll start with a 150 or 200 grit to get it flat. As for improvements, well it dropped my load temps considerably, how much exactly is unknown because I never let it get above 65*C now it under full load it doesnt go over 59/60*C |
Quote:
I have always went with 180, 320, 600, 1200, 2000, 3000 and now that it is available I will go to 4000 on my next.
Originally Posted by D3TH.GRUNT k thanks man! so, the grits i have are 600,1000,1500, and 2500. What other grits should i get? the 250? |
Quote:
k thanks hunt! oh, and if i started at say 200 and went up incrementally, would i be all good?
Originally Posted by huntman21014 I used 80, 100, 150, 200, 250, 350, 500, 1000, 1500, 2000 If you start with a high grit you are going to be lapping for hours, the 80 grit really takes the metal off fast though I did get a 13C drop by lapping my old E4300 but all 4 corners were raised so the core had almost no contact with the cooler |
Quote:
Just one 8.5X11 sheet will be more than enough, it will take the top layer off and give you copper very quickly! Then you can move on to your higher grits.
I actually have a few sets of 80 grit if you need some, I got a couple packs of a mix of grits for $1.60 a piece
EDIT> can I ask why you got a TT when you have a Xiggy? There is not a big difference in temps if I am not mistaken
Originally Posted by D3TH.GRUNT ok, well how many sets at say 80 grit are we talking? |
I actually have a few sets of 80 grit if you need some, I got a couple packs of a mix of grits for $1.60 a piece
EDIT> can I ask why you got a TT when you have a Xiggy? There is not a big difference in temps if I am not mistaken
I use two sheets of paper and a little ICD when I lap to get a nice finish, see the guide in my sig. It'll help save you a little cash and some time
![]()
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
