[Burn]

Hopefully, my lapping kit will arrive from Frozencpu.com today, I hope

Perhaps I may even get to lap it today! I'm hoping for a 2-4C drop in temps, I did see some tarnish the last time I removed the block, so that may be limiting heat transfer. I will also try a weaker mix of antifreeze-water, hopefully I'll be able to pick up more heat with more water in the loop. Anyway, I'll be taking many pictures of before and after, and let you all know how it goes!

 

[busa]

YES Please....many pics. I'm thinking of doing mine also.

 

[Burn]

Well, it didn't come today, = no mail tomorrow. Monday for sure gents

 

[busa]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burn Well, it didn't come today, = no mail tomorrow. Monday for sure gents

 

[CyberDruid]

You know according to the manufacturer the Storm blocks are pre-lapped and lapping is not recommended...just thought I'd mention that...

http://www.employees.org/~slf/lrwb/

"Lapping, or sanding flat, the base of the block

Your Storm block has already been professionally machined and lapped flat for the primary CPU contact area defined as a 38x38mm (1.5.x1.5.) area in the middle of the base of the block. The satin-like dull reflective finish on the block.s base is intentional. A highly polished finish is not indicative of a flat contact area, just as a polished metal ball is highly reflective but absolutely is not flat. It is strongly recommended that you do not lap or polish the base-plate of the Storm water-block as you will make it less flat and degrade the quality of the CPU to water-block contact area.

Tarnishing

Due to the purity of the copper used in the water block.s construction the copper portions of the block will tarnish quite quickly after being handled and exposed to the open air. If you notice excessive tarnishing then this may be quickly remedied by using some Brasso metal polish, or a scrub with a pot scourer cloth. DO NOT polish or scrub the base of the copper block where the CPU comes into contact with the water-block. "

 

[Burn]

That's Cathar's site, not Swiftech's; I don't know if Swiftech has the same high quality standards as Cathar does. Nice info though

 

[CyberDruid]

True dat--I wonder how much the blocks differ--I dissassembled mine and inspected all the cool little jets milled out of black plastic--I can't imagine how that is done. It was definitely not mirror finished--but I could see that it had been milled on the bottom--I couldn't really see any swirls like you get with handlapping.

I want a sterling silver one....

 

[Transonic]

Yeah I'd leave it alone. Not sure if you guys saw my block but it does not look lapped at all but it's silky smooth to the touch. Maybe it's just cuz it's silver but I'd still trust that Swiftech knows what they're doing.

 

[Burn]

Well, I got the kit today! Yeah, I'm gonna confirm with a very fine metal-edged ruler if it's flat or not, and make some necessary corrections if not. Thanks for the input guys

 

[bigvaL]

Go for it and lap it. Just dont go down too far...

 

[Burn]

Exactly. I'll have time tomorrow to disassemble and lap, I just am not going to have enough time to do what I want tonight as well as get detailed pictures, enough for this.

 

[Burn]

Finally..I have time! I'm doing it today!

 

[fstfrddy]

Careful, just touch it up, the storm bases are already thin!

 

[Burn]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fstfrddy Careful, just touch it up, the storm bases are already thin!

Yup, this is just going to be a quick cleaning on the inside components and the base will recieve a quick touch-up.

 

[Burn]

Finished yesternight, I have the pictures uploaded to my Rigshowcase.com photo album,
http://rigshowcase.com/album.php?u_id=8K0XHG

That will take you to RigShowcase.com, where all 15 pictures are hosted.

 

[CyberDruid]

Did you check it for flat after assembling? I know that the silver G5 needed to be assembled before lapping because the silver is so malleable--I think the copper is rigid enough it won't matter--but you could use a machinist's (or carpenter's) steel (like a litlte straight-edge or ruler) to see if you can detect any gaps or camber to the surface you lapped.

EDIT: P.S. those pix take FOREVER to load....

 

[bigvaL]

Doesnt look very good, what happened? I'd redo it without a kit man.

 

[CyberDruid]

I see some low spots (at least it looks like it from the pix)

 

[The Duke]

A black or blue magic marker works like machinist blueing to indicate the progress

 

[maddrfookenstein]

I didn't catch [or i coulda looked right above me...sorry] if any of you were using Prussian Blue or the like, to check for fit on less than newly machined--or, for sure on home-built units that you've hand lapped. I kinda figured a lazer light might be good too--though haven't thought out just how to jig it up for the press fit testing.

mdf