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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My mother dropped her laptop and smashed the DC port in the process. I resoldered it and hot-glued it together, and it worked fine for a few weeks. Now, suddenly, it won't work again. It works with the battery just fine, but if I remove the battery, it won't turn on. Clearly a DC port problem. She needs to be able to charge it. What could be the problem? I glued it well, and I don't feel like dismantling it unless I'm positive that the inside part of the port was broken (you could actually see it rattling). This time, the port seems to be intact.

EDIT: Changed AC to DC. I'm too used to working with desktops!
 

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What I like to do in case this happens is solder a set of leads on a board and get a coupler and do it externally.

Or track down a new port.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are we sure the port is broken again? The first time, it was. But the second time, it suddenly stopped working without any trauma, and there's no visible damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK. It looks like I have to open it. Her laptop is a very tedious one to open.
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by money11465 View Post
My mother dropped her laptop and smashed the AC port in the process. I resoldered it and hot-glued it together, and it worked fine for a few weeks. Now, suddenly, it won't work again. It works with the battery just fine, but if I remove the battery, it won't turn on. Clearly an AC port problem. She needs to be able to charge it. What could be the problem? I glued it well, and I don't feel like dismantling it unless I'm positive that the inside part of the port was broken (you could actually see it rattling). This time, the port seems to be intact.
A.) You will have to re-solder the DC Jack back to the motherboard.
B.) The DC Jack itself is borked and will need to be replaced (Pretty cheap)
C.) The motherboard itself is done for, the DC Jack actually sits through the board and is soldered to a few copper circular leads in the board. That part could just be bad and the board itself will need to be replaced (Pretty expensive)

I don't recommend trying to charge it any other way i.e. nothing external or 'jerry' rigged as this could be very hazardous. Good luck and I hope this helped.

*Edit* What model laptop is it?
 

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are there any solder points that are touching that could be causing a short? why did u usse glue? was the d/c jack broken? it could possibly be an issue with the connection where the a/c adapter actually plugs into inside the d/c jack. either way go to laptopjacks.com and order a replacement.

also, i hope the glue hasn't melted and somehow caused a short on the mobo, cuz that'd be bad news
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
She has an Acer Aspire 5003WLmi, if I recall correctly. Like I said, the laptop fell on the power cord while it was inserted and pushed the center part of the DC jack out. I then resoldered the center part, and glued it because solder isn't for holding things in place, only for electrical contact. It works fine under battery, so the motherboard can't be bad. I had all of this info in my OP, guys.
 

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Does the laptops power bricks light come on? How about the battery light on the laptop, does that come on when its plugged in?

Also goto ebay, search the model of the laptop + dc jack.

Guide

That is a good guide, I have used it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Quote:


Originally Posted by pLuhhmm
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Does the laptops power bricks light come on? How about the battery light on the laptop, does that come on when its plugged in?

Also goto ebay, search the model of the laptop + dc jack.

Guide

That is a good guide, I have used it.

The battery light on the laptop doesn't come on, otherwise it would work without the battery in it. There is no light on the trafo. I can fix the DC jack, I have done it before, on this exact laptop. I'll open it up when I have time (not for a few days) and redo the work, and let you know how it goes. I was really only asking, under false hope, that there might be some other cause, because I didn't wantto open it up again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
All right, I decided to just buy a replacement jack on eBay for $6.00 instead of trying to glue it again and all that hassle. I will let you know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The new jack arrived, and I can't desolder the old jack. I tried heating the old solder and mixing it with new solder and then sucking it up with a spring-loaded desoldering pump, but that will only get rid of about the amount I added. Desoldering braid will remove marginally more. I have a 15W-30W (tried both) switchable iron with a tip I ground myself, so it's very sharp.

I tried following these guides as well:
http://www.laptoprepair101.com/lapto...-repair-guide/
http://defectivekit.com/2007/02/15/g...it-yourselfer/ (though this one doesn't include good desoldering instructions)
How do I get the old jack out?
 

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You will need a soldering device that is a bit more powerful. Also replacing the DC port might not fix it, I've seen a lot of laptop mobo's which just can't recharge batteries anymore and then it's one of the internal circuits. I used to work at a laptop RMA department so I know it's not rare that a recharge circuit doesnt work anymore even though the DC port has been replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Quote:


Originally Posted by Acoma_Andy
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You will need a soldering device that is a bit more powerful. Also replacing the DC port might not fix it, I've seen a lot of laptop mobo's which just can't recharge batteries anymore and then it's one of the internal circuits. I used to work at a laptop RMA department so I know it's not rare that a recharge circuit doesnt work anymore even though the DC port has been replaced.

Well, it runs fine on battery, and recharging is not the problem. I can live with it if it can't charge its battery. It just needs to power on. So, would that internal circuit you mentioned also stop a laptop from powering on via DC port without the battery? Furthermore, I soldered it once, and it worked. It would seem unlikely that that internal circuit would fry all of a sudden. Is that possible?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Bump. Also, would you recommend getting a more powerful iron (if so, how powerful?) or an actual desoldering iron?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I know I shouldn't bump so soon, but I want to order now. Should I get a 45W desoldering iron or 60W soldering iron, for the same price? I have a vacuum pump. Which of the two would be more effective?
 
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