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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was just reading some horrific leakage stories, where videocards, CPU's and motherboards died... What is the main cause of leakage? User error? Product defect? Is there a definite way to avoid them? Is there a specific brand or type of fittings, barbs, tubing or whatever else that has additional leakage-preventing safeguards? Safety and leakage prevention is #1 concern for me, followed by performance, then noise, then visuals (how it looks inside my case).

How often do you have to clean your custom loops? Does it require additional expenses or a lot of work/effort? What is involved? Do certain materials, like copper, acetal, etc. require less frequent cleaning/maintaining?

EK just released new fan models for radiator cooling. Have there been any reviews yet? What are supposedly the best fans for radiator cooling with an excellent noise:cooling performance ratio, in your opinion?

What is a very efficient sequence with 2x 240x-360x thin & thick radiators for a CPU block + full videocard block loop? Pump - reservoir - radiator A - videocard block - radiator B - CPU block - pump - reservoir - etc. ?
 

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The custom loops that I have seen that leaked have been what I would call user error. I have been watercooling 12 years, never had an issue.

If you use thick walled tubing, like 3/8 5/8, along with compression fittings designed for 3/8 5/8 like bitspower etc, and you go slow and properly tighten each fitting, the chance of leaking is very small. I tighten my compression fittings all the way down on tubing (as they were designed to be) and handtighten compression fittings to block plus 1/8 turn with wrench (same as swiftech suggests), so I know I will only have a leak if a rubber gasket fails, which isnt likely.

It takes about 400W to heat water 1C at 1.5gpm, so you wont ever see more than 1C difference in temps in a typical loop between components and rads. So loop order doesnt matter. Just design the loop for cleanest, shortest route.

If you use all copper and just a biocide + distilled....I typically go 1-2 years before I clean mine, as I only take mine down to upgrade a component, and I upgrade something at least every 1-2 years.
 

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Typically either user error, or defective product.

I had a radiator with a polycarb plenum chamber that shipped to me with a small chip on the plexi. I sent it back to PPCS and they refused to accept that it was defective, so they sent it back to me. I decided to use it since they "guaranteed it would be fine". That chip turned into a crack and started leaking a few days later, and the slight pressure change of removing it from my loop caused said crack to spider web all over the plexi. I shipped it back and they still refused to accept it was defective... I guess this is turning into a rant on PPCS but the point is the only leak I've ever had was due to defective product.

As for cleaning, in a well set up loop you really should not have to clean frequently. I did my first cleaning on my loop about 2.5 years after initial setup. I was using a premixed coolant the whole time, and everyone was pretty adamant that I would have completely gunked up, corroded, and ruined parts. Totally untrue. Simply rinsing my components in water, the small amount of residue came right off and left bare, unoxidised, beautiful shining like new copper
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks all!

Where is the best place to purchase WC loops in the USA? I take it Amazon won't sell everything I need, will it? I want good prices, but also excellent custom support in case I order the wrong thing by accident or ignorance or something comes defective. Fast shipping times is always a plus!

OK, I feel like a TOTAL MORON for asking this again, but what's the difference between acetal, nickel, and acetal + nickel combinations? I see many selecting Acetal + nickel combo. Is it best for cooling? I want to get see-through blocks for videocard and CPU because I have a case with a window as a side-door, so my theme is all about see-through and getting naked!

EDIT: FrozenCPU.com?

EDIT 2: OK, why am I NOT finding an EK full cover block for MSI GTX 980 Gaming 4G? I swear I saw them for sale somewhere!
 

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I use PerformancePCS.com

some others like FrozenCPU.com

both are good priced and prompt.
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one tip I like to offer those new to water cooling is to use rotary barbs. it prevents loosening the barb on the other end of the tube accidentally when fitting. another is lube up your o-rings on tube reservoirs. and last but not least. pressure relief. i run these bad boys....

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-pressure-equalization-membrane-g1-4-high-version.html

anywho... good luck
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Does EK make all the best blocks performance-wise? They differ in prices and looks, but how the hell do I decide on which one to get if I care for performance? Are there reviews and comparison of the best blocks out there?

OMG, so some EK CPU blocks are $80 and then Aquacomputer Kryos HS one costs $300! Why such a huge difference?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh I really like how this block looks like - http://www.performance-pcs.com/enzotech-luna-cpu-water-block-with-micro-pin-design-blue-led-rev-a.html but this is one I also had in mind - http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-evo-cpu-water-block-nickel-plexi.html . I will be using blue water dye or whatever you call the "water" you put reservoir. Its not tap water, is it? Would tap water create a disaster?

Anyway, would either of the above blocks perform the same? I know the EK one needs no re-assurances as its one of most popular CPU blocks and it has "EK" and "block" under "water-cooling" section
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. The other Enzotech Luna is something I never came across. I really love the way it looks, but I need it to perform like the EK one or better!

EDIT: What is that 10/13 G1/4 measure for fittings? Which one do I want? It is purely looks-based? Do I want standard or rigid? Remember - safety is #1 concern!

What kind of tubing do I want? I am not sure I am ready for having a ton of these inter-connected mini-tubes that require connectors and fittings between them, although the end-result looks very nice. I just want safe, good quality tubes for CPU + full cover GPU block WC loop. I found Plasticizer-free tubing. Is that much better than PVC tubing? Does it provide better performance or is it just cleaner and with nicer properties?


Should I make a separate thread and ask more questions or would it be best to keep this one going? I can't figure out how to organize this thread or make a new one? I want to ask questions and get answer as I go along and I am not sure what would be the best approach.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks, but a ton of videos are missing from YouTube now. I am trying to figure out tubing right now. Does the size/dimater matter for performance? What's a good size/thickens for tubing for a CPU + Videocard Full Block loop using 1x 280mm thick rad and 1x 420mm thick rad??? I don't understand the measures, like 10/13 that come with fittings.
 

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Larger ID = more performance, but the impact is relatively minor unless you start getting into unreasonably small IDs (like trying to use aquarium airline tubing or something ******ed). The more items in your loop, the less the tube ID should matter, since the blocks and fittings and such are all more restrictive than the tube itself in most cases.

Larger ID also means more total volume of coolant, which is also beneficial, but shouldn't matter too much after the loop has been running a few min and temps start to equalize. Again, minor benefit in the long run. More convenient though in terms of less refills, I suppose.

In terms of wall thickness, thicker is better, as long as your fittings still fit. Less evaporation, less kinking, less chance of the tube fatiguing and slipping off the fitting.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonarchX View Post

Thanks, but a ton of videos are missing from YouTube now. I am trying to figure out tubing right now. Does the size/dimater matter for performance? What's a good size/thickens for tubing for a CPU + Videocard Full Block loop using 1x 280mm thick rad and 1x 420mm thick rad??? I don't understand the measures, like 10/13 that come with fittings.
It's a bit dated but still VERY relevant! https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLC6EA48744A9A954D
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero4549 View Post

Larger ID = more performance, but the impact is relatively minor unless you start getting into unreasonably small IDs (like trying to use aquarium airline tubing or something ******ed). The more items in your loop, the less the tube ID should matter, since the blocks and fittings and such are all more restrictive than the tube itself in most cases.
no not really. the inside bore size of a fitting is 3/8" and it wont matter if you use 1" id tubing, the flow is relatively the same with 1/2" and 3/8" id. going smaller than 3/8", yes it will matter and will be noticeable and is not recommended.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MonarchX View Post

Thanks, but a ton of videos are missing from YouTube now. I am trying to figure out tubing right now. Does the size/dimater matter for performance? What's a good size/thickens for tubing for a CPU + Videocard Full Block loop using 1x 280mm thick rad and 1x 420mm thick rad??? I don't understand the measures, like 10/13 that come with fittings.
nothing to be confused about with the numbers 10 and 13 and the like. they are the measurements in mm of the id and od of the tubing and fittings.
 
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