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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi people just do a quick look over my parts:)
Tell me if I should change or improve any of the parts i am buying or if it is all perfect:)
https://www.aquatuning.at/shopping_cart.php/bkey/fe11363dd56347125431e8b4ad16ea5a

And another important thing is the coolant....I have heard many people saying don´t use dyed water as it will cluster and stuff and damager your blocks etc....what do you think? am I safe with this dye and the parts I picked? has anyone got some experience with dyed water ? cause not everybody seems to have problems with it some have it 2 years without probs ...so pl recommend me a good one or tell me if I am gonna be fine with this one
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p8883_PrimoChill-Pure-Performance-Coolant--32-oz

UV-Green-944ml.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The CPU Block is from Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos Pro is made by a german company.
Currently this is the best performing block on the market:)

I would like some feedback on the phobya G changer radiator...is that one enough? or should I spend a little more for a better rad?

And yeah nearly everbody recommended me distilled water and pt nuke but the green looks soooo cool:( I mean is their a reason for those people to have problems with dyes? maybe certain watercooling parts or tubing cause these problemst? I woud love for someone with some experience on that matter to give me some advice...is the primochill dye ok to use with my parts?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by whipple16;11917871
i dont know much about AC rads and blocks but ditch the coolant and get some distilled water and a kill coil or pt nuke. (i wont be the first one to say this)

tubing is good, pump is good, if you really want green get the green primochill tubing
this, rad and block is good. delete gooey water and pull the trigger!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thx for the answers:D

But could you be a little more specific?^^
Good is such missinterpretable word:)

I mean how does the rad perform in comparison with the high end stuff?
Could you possibly rank it?
smile.gif


As for the block..yeah you won´t need to rank it:) I already know that it is Number 1# for sure:D

And the dyed water thing...hmmm I am really concerned of cluster building and block destruction:(
But why are there still people using for years and recommending it ?
I want UV effect and I am really afraid that UV tubing won´t have the same strong UV effect as you would get with UV dyed water..what do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
1.)Ok ok thats one to many telling me not to use it^^ I will use UV tubing..but do you think UV tubing will have the same effect as dye?
Ok pt-nuke is not available at aquatuning.de my retailer...and I live in Germany...any alternatives to distilled water with pt-nuke?

2.)Ok I got the best radiator and block available on the market right now especially the block is great^^ (beat the Apogee XT and EK Supreme HF by 1 degree)...please give me a little more feedback on the radiator and tubing here my parts again : https://www.aquatuning.at/shopping_c...31e8b4ad16ea5a

3.)Because I will use half inch tubing compression fittings won´t fit on the CPU waterblock and res ...that is why I will use 45 degree half inch compression fittings...so a lot of people advised me not to do so as the 45 degree fittings restrict waterflow...what do you say? will I be good with those or should I just use half inch barbs that will fit without use of 45 degree ?
 

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UV tube is not quite what the dye will give you (in terms of glow), BUT, it will not give you the long term headache that the goo will. Dyes have a tendency to coat edges and sharp angles on your bits after awhile, and can be a chore to clean.

Unless you plan to go below freezing, anything other than distilled water and a silver coil or dash of biocide may hurt more than help. I agree though, that it does not look as "cool", so theres a trade-off on way or the other.

I really like the phobya G-changer rads, have a 1.2 black 360 myself for my latest build, not quite the most efficient but certainly 1.0+ are very close to performing between an XSPC and BlackIce GTX Most the reviews I have seen tend to suggest a medium speed fan setup, with too low a fan speed resulting in poor performance, and too high diminished returns. Bang for the buck/ considering features, its a great buy for the money. Its also the cheapest 360 rad with a bleeder screw to my knowledge.

In terms of fittings, I "personally" like simple silver barbs with springs clips. Theres not much data in the way of how different fittings or rotaries affect water flow other than to say, there is an effect. Like any resistance in a closed circuit this effect is cumulative, so total resistance, is the resistance offered by each component added up. 1 or 2 angle fittings, probably wont make or break a good OC, 5-6 angle fittings could slow things up enough to notice "something". Theres no law saying all your fittings much be of one type or another, so I say, its whatever works the best/easiest to install.
 

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you'll be fine with just 2 45deg compressions...
i know of a better cpu block
actually 2

copper base, copper top
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_...oducts_id=2515

silver base, copper top
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_...oducts_id=2520

thermal properties
silver > copper > brass

besides that the block you want does trump all others
but the copper top of the HF model will be better than the brass top of the Pro...
yes the top does dissipate heat also... i can feel the heat on the block when i touch it.

as for dyed water... there is no denying that it will eventually break down... you will just have to do maintenance sooner than if using just distilled water and pt-nuke...

never heard anything of those radiators... i'm sure it will be enough for whatever cpu you plan on using... just make sure you choose your fans accordingly to the FPI
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you guys great answers


1.)I got an i7 950 (4.2 GHZ with 1.26Vcore)
are

2.)I am planning to use my Noctua UP12 Fans on the rad at 12 Volts/full rpm

3.)The AC Cuplex Kryos is awesome^^ I am just not sure to get it because maybe in some weeks something better will come out to the same price and I will be angry with myself that I bought this one and didn´t wait.The D5 Vario should be futureproof for a while


4.)As for the Phobya G Changer
finally someone that even knows it xD rather than knowing about its performance
The reviews have shown that this radiator is specified for low rpm fans..and that also with mid and high rpm its performane value only differs 1 or half degree compared to the top rads such as black ice , rx etc
!!!!!

4.)Have you experienced UV tubing glowing weaker than UV dyed water?so you don´t think I will be able to get the effect from my previously posted videos?

5.)So if I got it right ...people having problems with dyed pruducts such as *clustering,dye building and restricting waterflow,dye jamming blocks etc....* mostly are having these problems as a result of long term affect.So if I for example changed the dye every 3-4 months do you think I would also encounter these problems?
 

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1) CPU At your specified speed should put out around 151w of heat according to extreme PSU Calculator Plus the 24w From the pump. You will Need 175w of heat dissipation power from your radiator. No Problems there.

2) Very good fans from what I've seen... Lots of ppl use them although there are better one but nothings wrong with the ones you've chosen.

3) Yes the AquaComputer Kyros blocks are the best at this current time... Why wait? There will always be something better coming out eventually.

4) The radiator selection is fine for the RPM range fans you have chosen. Although there are better options out there. Here's a link to one of the only calculated reviews of the Phobya... Doesn't look all that bad. Especially at sub 1000rpms
http://66.163.168.225/babelfish/translate_url_content?.intl=us&lp=de_en&trurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.dexgo.com%2findex.php%3fsite%3dartikel%2fview.php%26id%3d440%26rubrik%3dHardware%26seite%3d4

5) Yes it is a fact that eventually the UV re-activeness will eventually lose it's intensity. It will eventually break down yada yada yada... I've been told lots of times to just go distilled water and kill coil/pt... haha look at my loop now... it's blue
smile.gif
but the truth is nothing will beat distilled water for our PC WC loops performance wise. Aesthetically... I would say that clear tube and colored water looks a lot better then just colored tube.

in the end the setup you have planned will work for your application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok still got a couple of questions:)

1.)how will the Phobya G Changer perform with higher rpm from 1000-1500 compared to other top products? Because I might throw my Delta fans on it with a fan controller of course^^those babies go off at 5000 rpm at 12 volts:)

2.)As in terms of the tubing...I have absolutely not experience with UV reactive material. So I don´t know which one is going to have the stronger UV effect tubing or dye. My main point of getting dyed water would be that it looks cool...that you would be able to actually see the water and bleeding would be much easier as you could see the air in the tubes.On the other hand a lot of people have recommended my distilled water with pt nuke or mayhems biocide as well.
Do you think I would have the clustering and constipation problems if I maintenanced it a lot and changed the dyed water every 3-4 months? This growth and constipatition of blocks etc should be preventable with pt-nuke or biocide right? unfortunetly you can´t use it with dyed water:(

3.)Right now I am undecided of spending this much money...because I heard the Rasa kits were hitting germany soon ...and I would get it for more then half the price I am about to spend here.I mean what do you think? will it pay off to have bought such high end parts ? or would a rasa kit just do fine as well with a 4.7 i7 and a GTX 595 maybe north/south bridge some day?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Silver coil or pt-nuke is unavailable in my country would mayhems biocide be fine too?
It is based on the same ingrediants as pt-nuke.

Oh yeah and the Phobya G Changer 1.1 and 1.2 models only differ in the material the screws are made of:)

If possible try to answer my 3 questions from post #17;)
 
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