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UPDATE 1.0 - IT'S ABOUT DAMN TIME!

Sure feels like its been a while, the last three builds have felt the same. It's getting harder and harder to find the time, organise and pull everything together. I'm closer to 40 than ever (funny how that works), married, two kids (under 3), a dog, a mortgage and a job to keep it all moving forwards. I adore PC hardware, its the one constant that has stayed with me my whole life. It's an absolute pleasure and a true privilege to have the support of these industry titans! It's been six years since I started modding under the MODZERO name and truly, I don't take any of this support for granted. I enjoy the process more than the result and without these sponsors, I'd get to build maybe one PC every 5 years. Each project is a labour of love, I don't go to the extreme and believe that a 'PC' should look like a PC. For me, it's all about clean lines, custom cables, sexy hardware and water cooling. With that in mind, come along for the ride.

I'm not sure when I first mentioned I'd be doing a 0-11D build but I'm pretty sure Lian Li sent me the case well over a year ago!

So where to begin, erm... Lian Li got in touch (I was honoured) and asked if I'd like to work with their Razer Edition 0-11D. I said I would and a couple of weeks later it arrived on my door from OCUK. I reached out to Gigabyte UK and they hooked me with some hardware goodies (I'll cover those in the next update). I then reached out to AMD UK and they sent me over some silicon loveliness (Thanks AMD, it's such a buzz having your support). Then, thinking this build was turning into something rather epic I reached out to Silverstone Tech (I'd not previously been sponsored by them). Side note - I've only ever used Silverstone PSUs (on my own builds), simply put, I believe they produce the best PSUs on the market. Certainly, others make great PSUs but for me, the simple design aesthetic and great cable pinouts make Silverstone my 1st choice.

Anyway, they hooked me up with a couple of options (more in the next update). EK then sent me a message as they were working on their 0-11d distro at the time (showing this builds age). The OG plan had been I'd build this around that, demo their distro glory early release style.

But a number of things went 'tits up' and everything got delayed...

Life can be a bummer.

THE CASE!


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It's your standard 0-11d with some added RGB and a Razer etched logo. Oh! and some green USB ports. To be honest, I love it! There is a reason this case is so popular, it looks amazing! I like Razer, I've used their products off and on since their inception and the green flare of the ports with the effect the etched logo will give once the RGB does its thing is all good news in my books.

So what to do first...


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Yup! dismantle it!


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Which turned out to be a PIA. The price point on this case is awesome and I guess you gotta keep them costs low somehow huh... pressed steel and rivets it is then. But never mind, my wife treated me to a new drill (fancy) and I got to work hunting them down. Like this cheeky ****er hiding behind a black tape I'll not be able to replace.


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A lot of rivets later, the case was down to a frame. But why I hear you cry (cried no one) well, I'll get to that in a moment.


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The front IO and rear panel were difficult, well, a pain. That front IO panel doesn't want to come off and they integrated an RGB strip into the panel which needed to come out in a sequence. The back was a fight too, it seemed as though the order in which the frame would have been first assembled would call for top/bottom panel to be removed before the back would come away. I opted to drill out the mid-wall rivets on the bottom panel which provided enough flex for the rear panel to come away.

So front, rear, top, back and feet are all off for some painting love.


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Oh, a couple of rads too! If you're on Instagram check me out, with this build as I've been doing certain bits documented as stories. I pulled apart the SE360 and PE360 rads with ease. EK have you mind with those rads. four hex screws, slide the ends across and the sides pull off.

So, the case and rads in bits, they got packed up and sent on their jollies.

This is where this one gets fun. Some time prior, I was watching Top Gear and the lads are ragging a McLaren 600LT around the track.


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This, McLaren 600LT!!!!.. in THAT green, with THOSE yellow callipers, forged alloy wheels, carbon panelling and a touch of orange in the model name stitching.

THAT'S WHAT I WANT!

Not the car! but the paint, the whole colour scheme. That's my 0-11D build in car form.

As it turned out, getting that green wasn't gonna happen. McLaren doesn't list the colour on their website (not that I could find) and 3rd party colours without a reference were gonna be difficult.

Very difficult.

Still, I sent some emails and PM'd a few people.


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That's it! That is Luminaire green, a sample from Mclaren! Not that Mclaren knows that. I'll link the company that made it happen when I finish the build cos you really need the light to show off this paint! It has a metallic pearlescence to the hue (ponce)! it's three shade of green with a sparkle up close and wow do the panels look awesome!

Yup, sorry... moving on. I'll show it off when it's done and the guy that did the paint is happy to provide the service to others (granted, it cost me three times the value of the case to get it painted) but compared to other sprayers I'd had quotes from he is reasonable, reliable, great communication and genuinely takes pride in his work.


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RIVETS! counter-sunk Lian Li black rivets... These I picked up from MDPC-X along with all my cable sleeve, connectors, crimps, wire, combs and terminals. They ship worldwide and only offer the best. #nocompromise again, more on this in a future update.


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Putting them in is so much easier than taking them out. Once you remember how to re-assemble the case that is! I got a panic on fearing I'd have to drill the rivets back out and mark the paintwork in the process.

But alas...


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Oddly, I was left with 4 stubby thumb screws and a small piece of foam (which now, having written it down reminded me it was a pressure fit wedge to hold the LED strip from wiggling) Oops.


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I'm jumping ahead a little, but I bought the Phanteks vertical GPU bracket. I'd intended to hold out for the EK one they announced during the EK EXPO and if the ribbon on this gives me any grief I'll be sure to go back and place my order.

I went with Phanteks for two reasons, it seems to have a smaller footprint and it positions the GPU further forward (closer to the side panel) than the Lain Li vertical bracket (oh yeah, that's the other one I was looking at..).

Annoyingly I didn't get a photo but fitted there wasn't the clearance required to put the SE rad + a 25mm fan underneath. Which ticked me off as I'm sure I'd seen it used in another 0-11d build on reddit. But not to worry.. break out the old Dremel and touchup paint.


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Sorted.

That'll do for now. I'll be back with UPDATE 2.0 perhaps at the weekend. I want to share the hardware I'll be using and maybe get some photos of all the EK glory they sent me!!!! I mean, WOW! They spoilt me. <3 those guys.

Thanks for checking this out, I appreciate I write a lot and maybe you just came for the photos (hey, we look at pron), either way, thanks.

J.
 

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Discussion Starter #2


UPDATE 2.0 - OH NO THEY DEEDNT!

Sorry for the delay, turns out it editing photos with a three-month-old baby strapped to your chest just isn't the way to do it. I'm trying hard to push this project forward, almost everything is in hand now so truly its just a case of carving out the time to move it along.

Let's meet the hardware!!!!


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AMD UK - RYZEN R7 3700X (LINK)

Yeah, that box is empty! haha! The truth is I've had most of the core hardware much longer than the cooling. Then Half-Life Alyx came out.... and that's why they created test benches. I've got Adam over at Thermaltake UK to thank for much of the industry support I receive. But most of all for my introduction to the guys at AMD UK. Thanks again AMD and as always, thanks Adam.

SILVERSTONE TECH - ST1200PT PSU (LINK)


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1st build with Silverstone on side! Though I've maybe built just a couple of PCs at most! that haven't used their products. Simply put, they are the best (IMO).


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GIGABYTE UK - X570 AORUS MASTER (LINK) / AORUS RTX 2080 XTREME (LINK)


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The boxes may well be pretty beaten up (pretty sure every online tech-site had them before me) but these two beasts are hungry for their forever home... on liquid cooling... here with me... in rainy North Wales. Oddly enough the RTX2080 had slipped through my hands once before. They sent it to me for my ASHEN build but that cooler is huge! so with a heavy heart, I sent it back in exchange for an RTX2070 (I know right!).

I've never really been one for board partner designed pcb/coolers (yeah a couple the EVGA efforts are pretty sexy), having historically always opted for the reference design. Mainly because those are the first to get water blocks. I think this may be, as back in the day, it felt like CPU/GPUs were more thermally limited. Slap a block on them and you'd see better clocks... MUCH better clocks. Today, sure you'll get that extra slice, but mostly the chips are tapped out, fresh out the box. IMO, it's more about keeping them quiet under load and looking great doing so (forever dreaming the next-gen will rewrite the OC rules again, boost clocks have ALOT to answer for!).

The Xtreme cooler is extreme... at idle its silent but slap a couple of tabs open in chrome and those fans will come to life and with them a beautiful dance of RGB pride. So first thing first (whilst I played through ALYX) I turned that bollox off. Instead, opting for a dim red effect. Looked awesome!


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Looks great right! The fans never spun up past 70% under sustained gaming load and it was comfortably quiet sat on a test bench next to me (granted.... I was wearing a headset... but that's why I'm water-cooling it duh).

This motherboard, on the other hand, is gorgeous! Truly I think Gigabyte did a great job with their X570 range of boards. I run the ITX offering in my other build MODZERO SEVEN (It's a transplant from ASHEN, I'll post photos of it once I've happy with my loop runs) and that's been great too!


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On my bench I'd been running a single 8-pin EPS as that 3700x isn't going to tax it much, but I'll make the full 16 for the build. Depending on the 4000 series compatibility I do see perhaps the 3900X(T) in its future.

Now, if you're not already and are so inclined. Follow me on Instagram, I mentioned it in the last post (and I'm sure I'll mention it again) but I'm making 'stories' of some of the smaller build stuff. I'd recently posted me swapping out the chipset cooler for EKs Quantum Chipset block and I'm pretty sure I'd shared my experience fitting the Vector Aorus block on the Xtreme.

I eventually save each story so you can check them out from the profile page.

https://www.instagram.com/modzero_customs/

So I guess we should take a look at this GLORIOUS TABLE OF EK LOVE!


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SO, what have we here... well.

Blocks

EK-Quantum Magnitude D-RGB - AM4 Nickel + Plexi (LINK)

Quite possibly the most exciting WC product release of recent years. This thing is a labour of love and whilst to demands a high price tag, genuinely feel its worth it.

Rads

EK-CoolStream SE 360 (Slim Triple) (LINK)
EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple) (LINK)

Both of these (as seen) have been painted to match the rest of the case. The Razer edition is the midi variant of the 0-11d so its slim down at the bottom and regular (yeah... let's say regular) thickness up top.

Res

EK-Quantum Kinetic FLT 360 D5 PWM D-RGB - Plexi (LINK)

Another exciting release from EK, the flat res! This was always intended to be the EK distro for the 0-11D. But then covid happened and stock died and that brought with it delay after delay. So once I received the green light from EK for this project I actually opted for a res. I've still no idea how I'm going to do the loop... but this gives me options that a distro doesn't.

Fans

EK-Vardar EVO 120ER Black BB (500-2200rpm) - Dual Set (LINK)

But... but... what about the X3M or the EVO RGBs! NOPE! If it's not Noctua, it's OG Vardar! (I just get that tattooed) The case, the blocks, res and ram all light up like Christmas! I'm not an RGB guy in the RGB sense.. er..

For me, I like that RGB means I can pick whatever colour best suits the build. Maybe, if I'm feeling like a tart, I'll add an effect to said light.

Coolant

EK-CryoFuel Lime Yellow (Concentrate 100mL) (LINK)
EK-CryoFuel Solid Laguna Yellow (Conc. 250mL) (LINK)
EK-CryoFuel Clear (Premix 1000mL) (LINK)

Yeah, it's gonna be yellow... acid piss-yellow or big bird bleeding out yellow. Only time will tell.

Fittings

EK-Quantum Torque HDC 12 - Nickel (LINK)
EK-Torque HTC-12 Color Rings Pack - Nickel (10pcs) (LINK)
EK-Quantum Torque Rotary 45° - Nickel (LINK)
EK-Quantum Torque Rotary 90° - Nickel (LINK)

Again, I've been doing unboxing 'stories' on my Instagram if any of that interests you. It was a big box and everything in it is beautiful!

Now, I'm a few steps ahead in the real world so maybe I'll leave it here and post again sooner. But basically, I've put the blocks on the board and the gpu is pimped out now too. I test fit the gpu on the vertical mount and because the GPU pcb is wide/tall it blocks a lot of the CPU (can't show off that stunning Magnitude block... gutted). That said, the GPU block is glorious and stands proud up front. I've made a couple of tweaks and that's beginning to give me loop ideas.

I'll leave you with a few more shots of that motherboard, only with the blocks fitted this time.


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Not so funny story, I tend to get into this after my wife and kids have gone to bed. Which often means I'm already exhausted. I can maybe pull a few hours out of a week (what!). So one night I'm thinking.. I've had that box of wonderful EK goodies sat there for weeks!!!! (mainly because the case was off getting painted, I wasn't neglecting it.. haha) pull your thumb out ya ass and move this forward.

So I fitted the CPU block, chipset block and shot 100+ photos (95% as always, are ****e). Loaded them onto the computer and edited three before I noticed the CPU block was upside down!!! I put this down to muscle memory though.. I've not built a PC that wasn't inverted, for years! so when the block went on, the board was upside down (right side up... whatever).

Anyway, couldn't leave it that way.. so spat my dummy and went to bed. came back the next night and refitted and reshot. You live and learn.. #dumbass


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I'll not be running any SATA drives, why would you.. M2 options for days! I'm running sabrent drives on this. They are unreal value and perform great!


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Cheeky little chipset block, this reminds me of MIPS blocks anyone else ever used there products? I wonder if they are still in business (googles it).

NOPE



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AORUS RGB Memory 16GB (2x8GB) 3200MHz (Limited Edition) (LINK)

I guess I've not mentioned the RAM huh! it's pretty. I had it in my ASHEN build but retired it when switched out the loop. I hope to use the Ryzen DRAM tool and really dial this kit in.


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I'm excited, this should be good.

Thanks for reading all that, or for just looking at the photos... until next time.

J.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

UPDATE 3.0 - HOW TO LOOP, NO I'M ASKING YOU?

Back again with another nudge in the right direction. Gonna be picture heavy but convey little progress, so strap in. haha

In update 1.0 (seeing as update 2.0 was just a gallery) we left off with slight mods to the vert GPU mount. So I guess we can take it from there.


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The Aorus Xtreme is a monster! with the block on and sat vertically in a position to allow enough clearance for the SE360 + 25mm fan it all but blocks out the CPU block... and you'd not know I have a chipset block on there either... But I kinda like it. It's a great looking GPU block and with yellow coolant in that area of the case, it should balance well with how I see it looking finished (in my head).


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I sat back and thought two things... terminal and parallel.


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I'm fully not a member of the 'RGB everything' way of life... but love how picking a single colour from any number of hues can make for a great-looking build. Long gone are the days of soldering inline resisters to 3mm LEDs to 5v/12v molex feeds. But, tbh, that's all it took to make a CPU/GPU block look awesome!.


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So I decided to swap out the default terminal on my GPU block for one of the more OG EK types from an old GTX980 STRIX block I still own.


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Aesthetics weren't the only reason, the DRGB terminals are larger (blocking more of my Magnitude block) and they have a wire that I can't sleeve! (aaargg!!) dangling down to the backside on the block.


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Ah yes... that's it. loads better! So now I got excited! Without the distro, I'm still to decide on a loop... but the idea of going parallel was shaping up to be a good one. Now, it doesn't line up.. its about 5-6mm off at a 60' angle. In my head, that wasn't gonna be a problem. A slight off bend in the tube might swallow the difference or maybe get more creative, take the CPU down off 90's and tight bends back up to the GPU.


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But in reality, once I'd put fittings on both blocks, the wiggle room was minimal. Now if I were Alex Banks I'd design and CNC my own terminal to offset the alignment. and, whilst I've used Fusion360 in the past, I couldn't genuinely see myself finding the time to pull it off. SO with my thoughts of parallel wonderment fading I thought... I'd try some offset fitting...


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NOPE!

It looks so busy! I don't like it. so parallel is out.


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This thing by the way! is a game-changer, now to be fair, EK must be the LAST company to put these into their fittings but with this little tool, getting them off is a breeze. I'm not too much a fan of using it to put them on though. I think most leaks are due to crushed o-rings. Using one of these to tighten your fittings is too easy over tighten.

So with the parallel thing off the table, I took another look at the layout.

So many ppl have built great looking rigs in this case, looking for inspiration was easy enough. a simple hashtag search on Instagram got the juices flowing and it kept pulling me in the same direction.

I want my rads blowing out the case with as much air being pulled in through the dust filters on the rear panel. So I got to it.

I did a couple of Instagram stories on daisy-chaining rad fans (go check em out) then set to putting my beautiful FLT 360 in place.


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Oh yes, this thing is solid! and just oozes quality and it should right, they demand a pretty penny! It just makes so much sense! I fully intend to use others in future builds. I truly see a 120 DDC version being my PUMP/RES of choice in all future ITX builds.

But at this point, it was looking like perhaps I couldn't use this one...

If you fit it directly to the mid-wall it'll block off 95% of all air that could be pulled in from the back. Plus, as its the D5 version it a pretty close fit in the back chamber too. So, use the supplied brackets right?? Well, doing that pretty much blocks off front res in/out ports (yeah you can use the ones on the bottom, maybe... but that fill port is only on the front! Something I'd like to see EK change).

So I wrote off the D5 and reached out to EK for the DDC version. The DDC version has smaller brackets (DDC pumps are not as deep) so with the DDC version I thought the bracket would still enable clearance for the top/bottom ports but more importantly, I'd be able to fit a further three Varder fans behind it, really use the space and make the most of the chassis design.

but actually. no. even the DDC brackets would stand the res out to proud, meaning I'd not be able to get my fittings installed.

So I made my own brackets... kinda.


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I had these spaces from a CPU HSF from years ago... I thought if I cut them down to about 15mm that'll provide enough clearance for the fittings and enough airflow for two varders (not three as the D5/DDC would still foul the midpoint) to pull in that beautiful clean flittered cool air.


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Looks pretty good right? I did consider making six but... er.... yeah I totally f**ked up two attempts at jr hacksaw cutting a straight line, so after some filing down I settled on four. In that top image of the spacers, you see some rubber inserts.. yeah, that didn't work out either.

So how is the clearance I hear you say...?


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Pretty good.

OH!!!! Before I forget! in my photos in the last update.. turns out I'd mounted the chipset block upside down!!! At the time, I'd not thought that possible. Plus, I'd already boot tested it without a loop, as, if you can remember, I dropped the whole thing shooting the Magnitude block.


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Do you see the cutaway near the sticker? yeah, I didn't. lol... its the right way round now and it booted that time so I'm pretty sure it's not fried.


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Love these Torque fittings! it's as though the more adapters you add, the cooler it looks!!!


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psst, the block is still the wrong way round in that shot. But let us move on.


FAN CONTROLLERS!!

The choice is huge!!! or is it. Having pretty much exclusively built ITX WC systems fan controllers just weren't needed. I'd put the pump RPM signal through a fan header and daisy (if needed) the rad fan(s) off the CPU fan header. I'd pretty much set a custom curve based on GPU temp in software where I could, or set a curve in the BIOS based on CPU temp.

Then I built MODZERO SEVEN, that Parvum R1.0 ITX build I've not shared yet. Well, that has got two 240 rads and two 120mm intake fans on the same footprint as my Parvum X3.0 build ASHEN. So for that project, I had an Aquaero 6lt mount built into the chassis (another design perk by the mighty JR23).

The Aquaero is a game-changer, I'm so late to the party with these but as I'd said, I'd not really needed one before. Now I don't think I'll do another build without it... or without its software at least!!! As I found this little beauty!


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The Aqua-Computer OCTO. Smaller than a credit card, mounts on 2.5" drive mounts, 8 channel fan controller + 4 sensor inputs. Best of all runs on the same software suite as the Aquareo. I run the Aquaero 6LT in SEVEN. I run the two 240 rads through their own channel (daisy each set of fans) the intake fans on a channel and the pump (that's 4, all the channels the Aquaero has onboard, granted those four channels will run 50+ fans if you wanted). I then run two inline loop temp sensors on each end of the rad runs (using two was pointless, looks cool though). In the Aqua-Suite software, I set the pump to 33% and forget about it and I have the rads running low and slow unless the coolant temp pushes 40'c by which time the fan curve ramps up the rad fans and tickles the intake fans. It's amazing! taking a curve off your coolant temp is THE way to do it.

If motherboards had sensor inputs and a way in the BIOS to control fan speeds off them then it would be game over for the fan controller. But until then, this is king.

Now, I could be wrong about the OCTO but from what I can tell, it does all the same stuff the Aquaero does just without writing it to internal device memory and with further input limitations. But how I see it is, it'll do everything I have my Aquaero 6lt doing at a third of the cost.


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Mounted on the reverse of the chassis drive mount plate/cable hider type thing...


I think that's it...

So how does it stand now? Well, I'm waiting on resupply from EK. They released their Torque extenders and I'm in need of that GPU backplate. So fingers crossed that'll come in soon.

I've made all the cables!!!! and they look awesome!! I've posted some shots on Instagram (sorry) but I'm keeping progress B&W to build tension for the reveal... and posting shots of b&w cables is sort of like watching Avatar on a B&W CRT TV from the 80s.


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See...

Haha.

I'm stuck on the loop. I knew using the FLT over the distro would make the loop more of a challenge but equally, it was that challenge that excited me. I've some ideas and that'll be my next update.

Thanks for reading folks.

J.
 

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I think most leaks are due to crushed o-rings.
Other than the one time I forgot to put a pump oring back in, most of the leaks I've ever had have been due to this. Couldn't agree more.

Looks great, BTW. I've been tempted to get one and see if I could invert it as I prefer my case on the left of my desk. Since you are the only one I've seen completely take one apart so far, does it look like (if you can remember) if the top and bottom can be swapped during reassembly?
 
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