[PetrolHead]

Well if you're just looking to remove 230watt's then you'd only need a 1/3 (5/8) HP Compressor, if you need to remove more then get you're self a 1/2 HP one

What size tubing will you be using and what gas will you be using?

 

[PetrolHead]

Israel uses 230v, but i wasn't talking about the voltage, i was talking about the power of the compressor.

 

[PetrolHead]

Hellgy, what do you mean?

I mean't that if your Single stage/Single Evap system is removing 230W of heat then you should go for a 1/3 HP or even a 1/2 HP rotary compressor for even lower temp's.

Will you be adding a Desuperheat coil?, this will increase the capacity of the unit allowing it to hold better temp's, it also ensure's that all of the liquid refrigerant boil's off before it return's to the compressor.

You should also be looking at using 3/8" to 1/2" tubing remember to purchase tubing designed for refrigeration use, it's already been vac'd and sealed and can handle the higher pressure's

Can you braze?

 

[PetrolHead]

Remember it's not a radiator, it's a condenser.

So the part's you need are :-

Compressor
Condenser
Drier
Cap Tube
Evap
Copper Tubing

Good luck!

 

[PetrolHead]

Well what i think you should do is buy a Chilly1 Evaporator and that's ready to install when you buy it.

Go to www.xtremesystems.org/forums/ and send chilly1 a PM and ask him about an Evap. there are also other people such as Johann, Gray Mole, FUGGER, PC-ICE & Kayl that would also be quite happy to make an evap for you

This is a plan of Chilly1's evaporator design, you cannot use it unless you get his permission.

This is a link to a bunch of free evap. designs that you can use.

 

[PetrolHead]

Earth (green/yellow)
Live (Brown/Red)
Neutral (Blue/Black)

There should be a large starting capacitor aswell, some wire's should come from that.

Here is a diagram that i found on Xtremesystems.org

There should be a condensor, it will look just like the evaporator on your air conditioning unit, the drier will be connected directly or indirectly with the bottom outlet on the condensor.

It me be the case that your unit may use the evap as a condensor aswell so there would be no need for the drier, don't quote me on that though.

When your converting the unit to use an Evap. block you'll need to cut the evaporator out, connect a new condensor in and braze a Drier on to the bottom out let, remember to have the drier facing at a downward's angle.

Then you take your cap tube off the bottom of the Drier and into your evap.

Oh by the way if your unit is indeed a 2.5 HP unit then it can handle 1800W

 

[PetrolHead]

Everything will be safe if YOU do it right

You need the capacitor to start the compressor, so no you cannot bypass it.

 

[PetrolHead]

No, he ment the electric's.

I'm not the best when it come's to wiring up compressor's and stuff, i'm not bad with most thing's but i've never wired up a compressor before.

When you have finished brazing then you tell the guy to come along and charge your unit, make sure he dehydrates the system aswell.

If you tell him it's a new system that hasn't been charged before then he should do that.

You also need to purge with propane or nitrogen when your brazing to prrevent oxidisation forming on the insude of the copper pipes, if it formes it can clog the filter's and cause damaged to other parts.

Speak to the refrigeration engineer and ask him about these issues.

 

[PetrolHead]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hellgy Thanks!, what about the oil issue?. Would WD-40 machine oil will fit?.

No, WD-40 will not do.

Search the net for info about the gas your using and find out what oil it need's.

 

[PetrolHead]

Well yes in a way ther are but you also need that set of guages to charge your unit.

Hellgy: Are there any schrader/access valve's on the unit?, if not then you'll need to get some.

You know it's not going to be easy to do this on a tight budget.

Mabey you should have just made a water chiller, like touchan.