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Discussion Starter #1
I'll be buying another CPU block next week to replace the Eisbaer (which I'm not currently using as a pump/res), I thought it would be a good opportunity to tidy up the tubing runs and get some more angled/rotary fittings in.

My current loop order goes: Pump/Res combo> GPU block > 360mm rad (near port) > far port to CPU> 120mm rad (far port) > near port back to pump res.

Big problem I'm finding with that loop order is the 120mm from the CPU is probably not cooling the water down to the res effectively, meaning the gpu is getting slightly warmer water than if the res was getting water straight from the 360mm and the flow restriction from the water going into and out of the eisbaer (being it's basically acting like a second res) as well as some unorthodox tubing runs is probably isn't helping.

So I got two options:

1/ Pump/res > GPU > 120mm rad > CPU > 360mm Rad > Pump res

That might sound like the best option but because my case Corsair 460X is space limited when the HDD shroud is used I have to lay by res on it's side, there is also not enough space for a 90 degree rotary at the top of the res due to side panel clearance so I'd have to run the tube over the res & the VGA power connector on the GPU and tuck it under somehow.

or

2/ Pump/res > GPU > CPU > 360mm rad > 120mm rad > pump/res

The problem with this one is I'd have to do a really long tube run from the 360mm rad to the 120mm rad in the back, nothing undoable but it might stand out aesthetically. Probably would look better if I replaced the 120mm with an xflow rad although that's added cost (and I can't fit a 240mm up top due to ram clearance).

I'm just curious anyone got any ideas on how I should go about this or what option should I pick?
 

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Shooting down fallacies
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Loop order makes no difference in performance. As far as tidiness, option 1 looks a lot better, especially if you add some angled fittings to make the runs cleaner.
 

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Newsfiend
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Like ciarlatano says assuming your flow is decent loop order makes minimal difference in temps so just go with whatever is easiest, cleanest, etc.
 

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WaterCooler
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Agreed. Aside from res feeding pump, the rest of the loop order does not matter. Make for the cleanest tubing runs.
 

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Crayon Evangelist
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I'd snag a few 45s and throw them in a few places to straighten out the runs a bit for aesthetics. Otherwise, as the rest have said...loop order is mostly arbitrary aside from keeping the pump below the res.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'd snag a few 45s and throw them in a few places to straighten out the runs a bit for aesthetics. Otherwise, as the rest have said...loop order is mostly arbitrary aside from keeping the pump below the res.
I think I'm going to order 3 lots of 45s for CPU & 360 rad outlet and one more 90 (already got two which will go on the GPU, third will go on res inlet).

As for loop order I feel it matters only because of the eisbaer currently but would rather the 360 rad goes at the end of the chain anyway.
 

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Overclocker in training
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Hi,
That 120mm rad is doing nothing remove it.
Get a better 360mm rad 360gtx or similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi,
That 120mm rad is doing nothing remove it.
Get a better 360mm rad 360gtx or similar.
It kind of needs to be a slim rad (magicool G2 slim was chosen) for the meantime as I need the 2TB of storage from the HDD, and the only truly better slim rad is the 360 GTS http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/hardwarelabs-nemesis-360-gts-radiator-review/5/.

In future once I get a second larger capacity SSD & maybe a 2.5" firecuda to compliment it I can then think of adding a thicker rad to the loop that will be a long way aways.
 

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Overclocker in training
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Hi,
I've seen many people flip the cpu block upside down with no ill effects for better routing :)
Nice to have as many rads as possible though
Wish I could fit a 360mm rad on the front of my cases :p

You'd want a 45mm thick 360mm rad minimum.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just to add to this, I haven't bought things yet but when adding a pair of SP fans I had lying around in pull water temps seem more acceptable with a 9-10 Delta T over ambient/idle water temp (23-25 idle 33-34 max load) with a moderately quiet fan curve.

An issue I feel now is the GPU is a couple of degrees on the warm side, when the water temp settles at 33-34 degrees from max load the GPU is hitting 47-48 degrees. There's around a 13-15 degree delta T over what the load water temp is. There are no bubbles I can see in the block, there are some very slight white marks on the plexiglass I assume it's just from ordinary gunk that builds up over time rather than anything untoward, the actual channels seem crystal clear no blockage or anything.

I did run out of Thermal Grizzly before first installing the block, I used the EK TIM first but didn't get a good mount first time (think I must of used one of the slightly bigger screws in the wrong place) and when I did make sure I done every screw correctly I replaced it with a sachet of gelid xtreme I had from the Eisbaer stuff as I'd used all the EK stock TIM.

So I might try some more Thermal Grizzly this week although doubt it would give me a 5+ drop in GPU temps vs the gelid maybe 1 or 2, if a combination of redoing the loop runs (not just order but efficiency) as well as a GPU repaste doesn't drop GPU temps then I feel a might have a block issue over a rad/loop one.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Update finally got it done, rang a heaven benchmark for 20 mins max temp on the GPU I seen was 42 degrees with a 32 degrees water temp. That was on a warm day, with an accidentally low RPM of around 800 on the fans, some de-bubbling still needing to be done and the front fan filter which I need to clean also. It also seemed to take longer to climb where as before it would shoot up to 40 C within a minute (fans blasting) where as it didn't hit 40 after one run today.

CPU temps are strangely warmer than with the Eisbaer (using an EK MX block) but not too warm and more close to the GPU temps.

The runs are still a bit sloppy but seems overall better.

CPU is now a lot warmer than GPU while playing Witcher 3 (60 fps cap):
 

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Crayon Evangelist
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The runs are still a bit sloppy but seems overall better.

It doesn't look sloppy at all. Short runs with no extreme angles.



CPU temp increase could be from a bubble, or maybe less than perfect thermal paste. A couple power cycles and tilting the case around should dislodge any bubbles.
 

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Update finally got it done, rang a heaven benchmark for 20 mins max temp on the GPU I seen was 42 degrees with a 32 degrees water temp. That was on a warm day, with an accidentally low RPM of around 800 on the fans, some de-bubbling still needing to be done and the front fan filter which I need to clean also. It also seemed to take longer to climb where as before it would shoot up to 40 C within a minute (fans blasting) where as it didn't hit 40 after one run today.

CPU temps are strangely warmer than with the Eisbaer (using an EK MX block) but not too warm and more close to the GPU temps.

The runs are still a bit sloppy but seems overall better.

CPU is now a lot warmer than GPU while playing Witcher 3 (60 fps cap):
it looks nice, just for some food for thought when considering the next upgrade to this unit. I no longer limit myself to what will fit inside of my case. the reason is that water cooling to me is a hobby, and I want it to work as well as possible. when I first started water cooling I would stuff all my components inside of the PC case and tried my best to provide the most radiators possible for my build. with my PC case two 240mm radiators was all I could fit inside of it. so I later built a radiator box for 3 X 360mm radiators, that worked well but I wanted all my hardware on one unit. so today I attach all my hardware to the outside of the PC case. it may not look great, but the radiators love it, they get cool fresh air all the time.

http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1615072-cpu-radiator-upgrade-water-cooled-rig.html

so now I can fit two 360mm radiators on my PC case, and I have all the radiator I need to properly cool my hardware.
 
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