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Discussion Starter #1
I've worked in the IT industry for 12 years and haven't kept up to date with consumer PC parts in well over 5 years. I've compiled a list of parts based on my limited time and would like your input. I want this desktop to handle anything I throw at it, mostly gaming for my personal use. I have no desire to overclock and don't have the patience for water cooling. I think the motherboard is a bit overkill but i want the room to upgrade in the future.

Please let me know anything you'd do differently or if Im over killing in some area. I'd like to keep the total budget around $2000 before peripherals.

Case-Fractal R6 Refine Black
Mobo-Gigabyte Z370 Aorus Gaming 7
CPU-Intel i7-8700k (with stock cooler)
GPU-Gigabyte GTX 1080 Windforce (Maybe a Ti if its worth the extra $300?)
RAM-Corsair Vengeance 32GB RAM 3200 mhz
PSU-Corsair CX 750w Bronze modular
SSD- M.2 Samsung 970 pro 512gb
Display-ASUS VG248QE 144 hz 24" 1080P

Thank you for the input.
 

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RGB Rainbow Vomit!
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You'll need to purchase a CPU cooler as the 8700K does not incldue a stock cooler.
That being said, I wouldn't trust the Intel stock cooler regardless of CPU; they're trash.

I'm not familiar with the current CX 750M PSU however my CX 600M died after a couple of years. I've tended to avoid Corsairs rebadged PSUs since then. I'd suggest looking through the PSU section on here for more info.

16Gb RAM will be more than enough for your system, 32Gb is overkill and will not likely become a required quantity for years. Given the bonkers prices of DDR4 at the moment, I'd drop to 16Gb and put that towards a GPU.

And speaking of GPU, the 1180 is inbound so a buying a 1080 which is now two years into its life cycle seems a bit moot.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Great advice, perhaps I could just fill two slots with 8 gb stick and leave myself room for another 16 gb down the line.
 

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Vandelay Industries
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2,124 Posts
I'm fairly sure you'll get the following advice:

1) 16bg ram 2x8

2) Seasonic Focus Plus 650w or equivalent

3) Air cooler @ or above Cryorig...most likely Noctua nh d14/15
 

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Senior OCN Member
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First off as said you will need a cooler as you dont get one with the CPU

Second dont get a Gigabyte GPU there is a reason why they are the cheapest cards
Third the PSU you picked is not all that great and its also overkill wattage wise, the Seasonic Foucs Plus and Prime Ultra series are much better

And last forget about getting an NVME SSD its not going to be better or faster in any way over a drive using the older AHCI protocole due to software limitations in Windows
Only if you are working with huge workloads and files or if you are using Linux will it be faster otherwise it wont be and its a complete waste of money in your use case

Get a Samsung 860 Evo instead you can get almost twice the storage space for almost the same price and its not going to be slower

Edit: by the way you should be getting a monitor with Nvidia G-Sync if you are buying a new monitor anyway
 

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RGB Rainbow Vomit!
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The performance differences between SATA and NVMe can vary from imperceivable to game changing. Most people recommend them these days and if its within budget, theres no reason not to get one.

Additionally, the M.2 form factor has one huge advantage over SATA regardless of drive performance: no cables!
 

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You can get drives with the AHCI protocole in the M.2 format as well so that excuse doesn't work
NVME is not better or faster in any way when it comes to gaming as i have already said

Its a complete waste of time and money for gaming as there is no game that will load any faster with NVME as the drive is not the limiting factor the software is and no drive is going to fix that
People that recommend NVME more often then not does not understand the technology nor the limits of it and all they see are higher numbers in synthetic benchmarks
 

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In my opinion, there's nothing wrong with buying a video card that's available today rather than waiting for one that might come out in the next month to month and a half. The easiest way to protect yourself is by going EVGA so you can take advantage of their Step Up program in case you do want to upgrade when the new cards come out. You have a 90 day window. As for the GTX 1080 Ti being worth it over a GTX 1080, it depends on the resolution. For 1080p and 1440p, I would say it is not worth it, but for 4K gaming it would be. The upcoming GTX 1180 is rumored to be about 18% better than the GTX 1080 Ti with much less power consumption, but the price is also rumored to be around $700. Considering the price of the GTX 1080 Ti, the performance would justify the price but a lot of people are uneasy over the idea of a XX80 card being priced that high knowing a XX80 Ti will eventually surpass that card for around the same price. If you're not playing graphically demanding games (like esports titles) at 1080p, you can get away with a GTX 1060 6GB. The resolution is the biggest factor in which card you should ultimately purchase.

I wouldn't recommend an NVMe SSD unless you plan on doing some drive-intensive tasks. Gaming is not a drive-intensive task. You can generally get about double the capacity for an AHCI SSD versus an NVMe SSD. About the only time you would notice the additional performance offered by an NVMe SSD is when your operating system loads. You would save a handful of seconds every boot, but we're talking about the difference between maybe 15 and 8 seconds. Percentage wise it's a massive difference, but if you aren't doing anything productive with the time saved then its a moot difference.

For the CPU cooler, you have a lot of good options from budget to overkill. If you want to stay more on the budget side of things, the Cryorig H7 is about the best bang for your buck out there. I would recommend going with something with a bit more cooling capacity though. I know you're not overclocking, but the i7-8700K will rarely be at its base clock speed. Any time a core is under load, it will hit one of the turbo bins which is somewhere between 4.7 GHz for one core and 4.3 GHz for all six cores. The Phanteks PH-TC12DX is a solid mid-range cooler that comes with push-pull fan configuration out of the box. The Noctua NH-U12S and NH-U14S aren't much more expensive and cool a bit better. If you don't like the way Noctua fans look, another mid-range option is the Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Power. Probably the best aesthetically looking cooler would be the Dark Rock 4, but you're creeping up closer to $75 for not much better cooling. Overkill options include the Noctua NH-D14, NH-D15, and NH-D15S; Cryorig R1 Ultimate; be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4; Phanteks PH-TC14PE; Thermalright Le Grand Macho; and probably others that aren't coming to mind. In my personal opinion, I don't think it makes much sense to pair a flagship CPU with a budget cooler, but a budget cooler will still get the job done. Buying a better cooler would allow for either lower temperatures with similar noise or similar temperatures with less noise.

The case you selected doesn't have a windowed side panel so internal aesthetics it would seem internal aesthetics are a lower priority. The Define R6 comes with the option fro a tempered glass side panel in case you wanted to show off the internals. One thing I will bring up about the Define R6 is it's a pretty big mid-tower case. I have the Define R4 and it's not quite as deep by about 20mm. When I upgrade within the next year, I'll be moving to a smaller form factor. If you don't think you'll move your system in the next few years, case size probably doesn't matter. I would like to have the option of taking my system when I travel without it being so cumbersome. There's a lot of smaller form factor cases out there if that's something you're willing to consider. If you plan on utilizing all those drive bays eventually, stick with the Define R6. I'm personally leaning toward the SilverStone FTZ01 since it can support my HDD and three SSDs if I decide to go mITX. If I go mATX, I'll get either the Meshify C Mini Dark TG or Corsair Crystal series 280X. Going with a small case like the FTZ01 would change your CPU cooler options significantly. The Define Mini C and Meshify C Mini Dark TG are essentially the same case with different front panels, both cases supporting CPU coolers up to 170mm in height. The Corsair 280X only supports coolers up to 150mm in height, the best I've been able to find being the Noctua NH-U9S. For reference, the Define R6 weighs about 27 lbs while the Define Mini C weighs about 15 pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the input, here's the setup I went with to save a few bucks here and there but still leave myself space for upgrading down the line when memory gets a bit more affordable.

-Fractal Refine R6 TG
-i5 8600k (Arctic MX-4 TP)
-EVGA GTX 1060
-16gb Corsair Vengeance RAM 3000mhz (8x2)
-ASUS Z370-E
-Seasonic 750FM Gold PSU
-Samsung 860 EVO SSD 500GB
-BenQ ZOWIE EC2-A 144 hz 24" monitor
-Cryorig H7 cooler

I plan on adding a few extra fans down the line but I really liked the case I went with as it allows me so many options down the road if I do want to delve into water cooling.
 

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Pretty much every tower-style case supports some level of water cooling these days. The Define R6 is one of the best mid-tower cases you can buy. Fractal Design makes great cases at pretty much every price point. You won't be disappointed. I'm not at all disappointed with my Define R4, I just want a smaller build. If I was going to buy a mid-tower chassis, it would most likely be the Meshify C Dark TG because the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv X isn't available yet.
 

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Meep
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-Fractal Refine R6 TG
-i5 8600k (Arctic MX-4 TP)
-EVGA GTX 1060
-16gb Corsair Vengeance RAM 3000mhz (8x2)
-ASUS Z370-E
-Seasonic 750FM Gold PSU
-Samsung 860 EVO SSD 500GB
-BenQ ZOWIE EC2-A 144 hz 24" monitor
-Cryorig H7 cooler
Looking good, but I'd go with a bigger air cooler as the R6 has plenty of space and they're not that much more expensive.

I assume you're in the US? I'd recommend either the Cryorig H5 Ultimate or Thermalright Macho Rev.B, they're only about $10 more, but perform quite a bit better and are quieter.
 

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Uhmmm..why get a K-series processor if you're not overclocking?

If memory serves me right, there's a price difference between a K and a non-K processor but I'm not sure though if it's a huge one.
 

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One advantage to getting an unlocked processor is multi-core enhancement can automatically overclock all cores to the single-core turbo bin without having to worry about playing with any settings. It's a no hassle way of getting extra performance with little effort. Higher base and turbo clocks are nice as well, as is the option to overclock in the future.
 
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