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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there guys am new to this forum and i just got myself a nice looking switch white 810 case.

Am thinking of going custom water cooling the first time after using closed water loop for a while now.

Spec are as followed
I7 4770k
2x gigabyte 770
1600 vengeance 2x4gb ram
Asus maximus hero mobo
120gb force SSD
Seasonic 750w PSU

Am currently deliding my cpu now.
One SLI Is the max i would go.

Alright just some question i would like to clarify before i start my build.

Is a 750w psu sufficient for a water cooling loop with my current hardware ?

Am currently thinking of using a 420 and a 240 rad. Flow of air would be bottom to top as exuast.

I see a common build flow would be pump - reservoir - rad - cpu - vcard - vcard - rad. Wouldn't it be better common sense wise to go pump - reservoir - cpu - rad - vcard - vcard - rad ? Is the first really matter, or it doesn't really matter. If the latter really is better, why would people choose the first ?

Black ice 420 extreme rad is 20 fpi but why is it such a unpopular choice ? Shouldn't more fpi equate to better cooling ?

I see that 420 thin version, < 40mm is very popular in switch 810. Why so ? Are they able to cool it like the big brother ?

360mm rad vs 420mm rad with 8 or 9 fpi is a popular choice among switch user. Are they really good as compared to one with better fpi ?

How much different will it make if i will to get a 360mm 8/9 fpi rad or 420 < 40mm thick rad vs a 420mm, 50mm < thickness rad? Will it be a big different ?

One reason that i would consider a 360 rad is because of gentle typhoon. Will gentle typhoon 1850 rpm with an adaptor be able to fit on 420mm, 40mm < thickness rad ? And will it outperform 140mm fans ?

What is the best performing 140mm fans ? From what i read, cougar seem to be a popular choice. May be leaning to bitfenix due to its led, but will the bitfenix be up to expectation ?

What is the best 420mm rad that i can fit into switch 810( i have done a lot of research but frankly, i am still searching for the answer. ) from what i know black ice stealth fit nicely with out mod, that is why people chooses them, but performances wise is it better to get other rads ? If so, which can provide the best temp for my current hardwares ?

My country only carries xspc and ek rad. Is it worth the trouble to get better rads from the states ? Performance wise is it significant?

So sorry for the loads of questions. Any help will be gladly appreciated. Thank you for helping out. Really sorry once again for being a bother.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Currently am choosing between these few radiator

Black Ice GT Stealth 420 Radiator - Black


Material: Copper fins, brass chambers
Colour: Completely black
Dimensions: (L x W x H) 479x145x60mm
Connection threads: G1/4"
Weight: approx. 1976g
Mounting threads: On both sides for fans or mounting, on sides for mounting
Mounting thread size: M3
Fan size compatibility: 3x 140mm
Pressure tested: 2 Bar
Other features: Bleeding screw

Black Ice GT Xtreme 420 Radiator - Black



Two-pass pre-cool/aftercool front-rear dual-core flow configuration with a 30% increase in internal flow rates.
Custom MaxFin™ 25 micron Copper Splitter Fin Configuration utilizing 45% thinner fin material yielding up to 50% less pressure drop.
Unique fin configuration eliminates intra-louver accumulation of dust particles for trouble free operation.
Radically optimized 20 FPI (Fins Per Inch) fin density providing dramatically increased heat transfer surface area.
Custom low-profile 2-row 19.0 x 1.2mm MaxFlow™ tubes with twice the waterside surface area of the GTS and 60% frontal area reduction for superior low air-resistance aerodynamics and lower internal flow requirements.
Yields up to 45% more heat exchange capacity than the Black Ice® *Xtreme in both Stealth or Performance modes.
Achieves Black Ice® Xtreme level performance in stealth mode (low-noise/low-airflow conditions).
First dual core computer radiator configured and optimized for 140mm fans.
M4 Threaded Screw Holes for easier mounting and greater adaptability.
Now standard G 1/4" female threaded fittings.
Full high-temper brass structural construction for weight reduction and superior corrosion resistance.
Uses 100% Non-corrosive water-solluble fluxing process.
Fully RoHS compliant.
Full electrostatic polyurethane painting finish for uniform coating with high temperature curing for increased finish durability.
Renowned Black Ice® quality.
Patent Pending Design.
153 x 460 x 55.7 mm

EK CoolStream 420 XTC Series Liquid Cooling Radiator (EK-CoolStream RAD XTC (420))



Materials: Copper fins
Brass chambers
Dimensions (LxWxH): 460x146x55mm
Connection threads: G1/4"
Fins/inch (FPI): 10
Fins/cm (FPC): 3,85
Weight: Approx. 1480g
Liquid Capacity: Approx. 490 ml (16,57 fl oz)
Fan installation: 4 x M3 threads on both sides each (for 3x140mm fan each)
Pressure tested: 1bar
Included: 1x EK-CoolStream RAD XTC 480 (Triple) radiator
4x M3 x 30mm DIN965 screws
4x M3 x 35mm DIN965 screws

Phobya G-Changer 420mm Radiator - Black (35196)



Material: Copper fins, brass chambers
Colour: Completely black
Dimensions: (L x W x H) 479x145x60mm
Connection threads: G1/4"
Weight: approx. 1976g
Mounting threads: On both sides for fans or mounting, on sides for mounting
Mounting thread size: M3
Fan size compatibility: 3x 140mm
Pressure tested: 2 Bar
Other features: Bleeding screw

Am leaning towards black ice extreme as under the feature it state 20 fpi, isn't that the highest in 420 rad that are < 60mm in thickness ? Am i right to say that black ice extreme will be the best in performance ?
 

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Hey, I'm fairly new to this myself, but as I have the 3770k and 2 x 680, our hardware seems similar enough that I will volunteer what I think on the PSU. I'm not very sure about the rest and am curious about the answers to some of your questions myself, but I will put in my two cents worth...

750 sounds a little low for your hardware as it stands, but a water cooling pump won't draw much at all, so if it's sufficient for this hardware now that should remain true when you add a pump and a few fans.

I don't know why it is better to go to the rad after the pump instead of before, but I do know that all of the guides I saw on the subject said the loop should go to the rad after. Maybe the water pressure is higher and helps more with forcing water through the fins?

My loop goes pump/res combo - 360 rad - cpu - 240 rad - vcards via dual parallel SLI bridge - pump/res and my temps have been very satisfactory all round, under load my CPU cores are just over 50, one 680 is low 50s and the other is mid 40s, so I'm sure you'll get better temps than that with a 420 and 240.

As far as the fans go, I can only say that I used 140mm Bitfenix for my case and hot-swap bay cooling and the results I got were much better, but then I'm comparing that to Corsair's included case fans so they probably should have been. Oh, and the blue LED on the Bitfenix is very pretty :p

Happy cooling!

Edit: forgot to mention - CPU temps are at 4.5 GHz and Vcards are 1241/7012
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Finally a nice kind soul responded am holding back my project cos no one answered me these anywhere and i can't seem to get my ideas right haha. may not have answered all but yeah u cleared my mind on lots of doubt. thank you so much. Btw have u tried delidding your cpu? Did mine and am running @ 4.4gh, 1.251 vcore @ 57 degree max temp on aidia using h100i. Used to run at 80c. highly suggest that you do the same
wink.gif
though risk are involve. I paid someone in my country to do it for me. He got nice workmanship and he provide me with personal 1 to 1 replacement warranty. am just so happy that i just delided mine today
wink.gif
 

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That is a big change! I haven't tried delidding my CPU because I have nerve issues, and the idea of approaching my CPU with a razor blade or other implement is enough to give me cold sweats, although I can't say I haven't considered it ;-P Btw, my experience with moving from a H100 to a custom loop was that the temps were not all that different - wasn't an issue for me because my main concern was the heat from my video cards, but it might be an idea to try not to expect a dramatic improvement. For what they are the Corsair closed loops do pretty well, although they charge the earth for water-filled plastic haha
 

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Sorry, memory fail - I did find similar temps, but I switched CPU at the same time as switching to the custom loop, ignore my rantings lol
 

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Lol ok what did you upgrade from ? 2500k or 2600k ?...btw can anymore kind soul help me out ? ;(
 

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A touch more old school - a 980 (non-extreme) on a Gigabyte OC board. It died literally less than an hour before my water cooling hardware arrived *sobs*
 

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Ok, where to start?

750W is plenty for your system. If you decide to get another video card, or LED lighting strips, dual pumps, etc....well it adds up.

Loop order is Reservoir -> Pump -> everything else. Run the tubing the easiest and most efficient way. Once the loop has been running for a while, the water temperature equalizes and it doesn't really matter what the order is. The reservoir has to feed the pump though, and it needs to be higher for a gravity feed.

Higher FPI rads have the potential to cool better, but the tradeoff is that you have to use high speed fans to get those benefits. High speed = loud, and most people want a quiet rig if they're going to water cool it, hence they go with a thick rad with lower fpi. That way they can use slower, quieter fans, sacrificing minimal cooling ability.

GT and cougar fans are both good and will work fine with adapters. Most people get fans to match the rad though. I don't have these personally, but I've seen these recommended before.

Check if Aquatuning (based out of Germany, I think) will ship to your country. Given the choice of XSPC and EK rads, I'd go with XSPC. Their RX series rads are very good. I don't think it's worth the extra cost of shipping for minimal difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
hmmmm roger that thanks mate. You clarified my most important doubt lol. will head to my nearest shop this afternoon.
 

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hmm another question.. my local store do not carry cougar and i doubt a gentle typhoon with adapter will fit but let us say worst to worst if i choose a 360 rad and a 240 rad, what much of difference am i expecting as compared to a 420 + 240 rad ? 2~ 3 degree ?
 

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If the adapter is for 140mm to 120mm it will fit. Why doubt it?

More surface area will perform better. The amount depends on the heat load you're applying. In your case, I'd say your guess is about right.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firehawk View Post

If the adapter is for 140mm to 120mm it will fit. Why doubt it?

More surface area will perform better. The amount depends on the heat load you're applying. In your case, I'd say your guess is about right.
the adapter will fit but with the adapter, the fans may not be able to fit into my case. it is a cramp case switch 810 ha but is a beauty ~
 
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