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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first time building a rig with a full custom watercooling loop so please be gentle on me ;)

1. I forgot where I read this but what the guy usually does when handling fittings (especially rotary ones) is to soak them wet in distilled water before installing them to the component ports. This way they get "pre-lubricated" while handling them and prevent any damage to the rotary mechanism of the fittings when rotating them. Is this accurate and advisable?

2. When cutting the soft tubing during installation, do you always give some slack to all of them?
 

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I’ve use lots of bitpowers rotary fittings. I’ve never soaked them before installation, I’ve never heard of that before. That does not mean it’s not a thing, I’ve just never heard of it. I personally have not had any rotary fitting fail on me. I’ve used some of them for years. I only buy bitspower.

When I used soft tubing. I would leave a little slack. A little slack makes it a little to install. I don’t like the tubing pulling on the fitting. It’s undue stress on the fitting and what ever it’s screwed in to.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’ve use lots of bitpowers rotary fittings. I’ve never soaked them before installation, I’ve never heard of that before. That does not mean it’s not a thing, I’ve just never heard of it. I personally have not had any rotary fitting fail on me. I’ve used some of them for years. I only buy bitspower.

When I used soft tubing. I would leave a little slack. A little slack makes it a little to install. I don’t like the tubing pulling on the fitting. It’s undue stress on the fitting and what ever it’s screwed in to.
I see. I'm using XSPC myself and hope that I won't have any issues. I heard good things about them before I even bought them..

Do you mean a little slack would make the tubes a little "easier" to install?
 

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soft tubing cutting, there is not much ever said about it, but just as hard tubing needs to be cut to very close tolerances, in many ways soft tubing has its own tolerances as well. personally I try to make my tubing runes as straight as possible, secondly I try to make my tubing cut, to the exact length I need. what that means to me, is that the tubing is nether pushing on the fittings, or pulling on the fittings. I would agree that a 1/8" longer tubing run would be better than a tubing run that is a 1/8" shorter than it should be, but I try to make it so that I have no stress on the fittings, in either direction. I also like thick wall tubing my preference is 3/8" ID 5/8" OD norprene tubing.
 

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I see. I'm using XSPC myself and hope that I won't have any issues. I heard good things about them before I even bought them..

Do you mean a little slack would make the tubes a little "easier" to install?
By a little slack I mean measure the length of the section you need, add a slight length to the cut. If the length is to short or very close to exact. It can be difficult to get to tubing over the barb or compression nipple. The most important thing to retain is. You don’t want undue stress on the fitting or conponent. I too believe that the runs should be as short and straight as possible. When you start there is some trial and error to the learning curve. You will waste some tubing in the prosess. It can not be helped, it’s the nature of the beast.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
soft tubing cutting, there is not much ever said about it, but just as hard tubing needs to be cut to very close tolerances, in many ways soft tubing has its own tolerances as well. personally I try to make my tubing runes as straight as possible, secondly I try to make my tubing cut, to the exact length I need. what that means to me, is that the tubing is nether pushing on the fittings, or pulling on the fittings. I would agree that a 1/8" longer tubing run would be better than a tubing run that is a 1/8" shorter than it should be, but I try to make it so that I have no stress on the fittings, in either direction. I also like thick wall tubing my preference is 3/8" ID 5/8" OD norprene tubing.
I also have 3/8 ID 5/8 OD. Do you measure the 1/8" extra or just estimate it?

By a little slack I mean measure the length of the section you need, add a slight length to the cut. If the length is to short or very close to exact. It can be difficult to get to tubing over the barb or compression nipple. The most important thing to retain is. You don’t want undue stress on the fitting or conponent. I too believe that the runs should be as short and straight as possible. When you start there is some trial and error to the learning curve. You will waste some tubing in the prosess. It can not be helped, it’s the nature of the beast.
Yes. What I meant is that you forgot the word "easier" in your first post which is why I asked ;)
 

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well to do my measurements I use a fabric tape measure, and a piece of the actual tubing to get the right lengths.
 

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Hi there

Personally I wouldn't get XSPC tubing, their fittings are very nice, used them and they're very nice fittings

For budget builds I would have look on Barrow or Bykski fittings amd for tubing have used Mayhems UV White tubing and their Clear tubing and been very happy with them, which I can't say about the PrimoChill LRT or EK DuraClear

Have look on this tubing, its very similar to EK ZMT

http://www.usplastic.com/mobile/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=33112&catid=864

And regarding the fittings and pre lubrication,this I never done and never stripped any fitting or block etc

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura
 

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This is my first time building a rig with a full custom watercooling loop so please be gentle on me ;)

1. I forgot where I read this but what the guy usually does when handling fittings (especially rotary ones) is to soak them wet in distilled water before installing them to the component ports. This way they get "pre-lubricated" while handling them and prevent any damage to the rotary mechanism of the fittings when rotating them. Is this accurate and advisable?

2. When cutting the soft tubing during installation, do you always give some slack to all of them?
1) You've got the choice between de-ionised water and distilled water. Always best to go with distilled. If you soak them in de-ionised they could pick up microscopic metal debris which could eventually after (6-10 years)? or so maybe impact corrosion slightly between metals.

2) Aye, not tooo slack. But a little.. Always best to have a little slack. Also - always have at least one bit of tubing that is very slack so you can position it to drain the loop when needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well to do my measurements I use a fabric tape measure, and a piece of the actual tubing to get the right lengths.
Ok, that makes sense. So 1/8" of extra, copy!

Hi there

Personally I wouldn't get XSPC tubing, their fittings are very nice, used them and they're very nice fittings

For budget builds I would have look on Barrow or Bykski fittings amd for tubing have used Mayhems UV White tubing and their Clear tubing and been very happy with them, which I can't say about the PrimoChill LRT or EK DuraClear

Have look on this tubing, its very similar to EK ZMT

http://www.usplastic.com/mobile/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=33112&catid=864

And regarding the fittings and pre lubrication,this I never done and never stripped any fitting or block etc

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura
I should've made it clearer. I don't use XSPC tubings. I have XSPC fittings and yes I use Mayhem Clear Tubing.

1) You've got the choice between de-ionised water and distilled water. Always best to go with distilled. If you soak them in de-ionised they could pick up microscopic metal debris which could eventually after (6-10 years)? or so maybe impact corrosion slightly between metals.

2) Aye, not tooo slack. But a little.. Always best to have a little slack. Also - always have at least one bit of tubing that is very slack so you can position it to drain the loop when needed.
1. Are you saying to go ahead and dip the fittings in distilled water before installing them for pre-lubrication? I mean it shouldn't here them, should it?

2. What do you mean at least one bit of tubing that is very slack so you can position it to drain the loop? I would be using a drain valve in the lowest point of my loop, so would your suggestion still be applicable?

@All

I know this is asked over and over again but do you guys just hand-tighten your fittings or do you hand-tighten plus a little bit of extra twist with a tool? If so, which tool is safe to use to avoid damage to the fittings? I'm guessing pliers and long nose will damage the metal.
 

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Measure the soft tubing by actually putting in position so to speak and add about 5mm extra in total, leave a bit of slack as you dont want any kinks in it that will restrict water flow, as mentioned previously you will waste a bit of tubing by doing this but its not exactly expensive so not really an issue. I have never heard of rotary fittings ever being soaked in water before use but probably wouldn't hurt. I have used primochill LRT tubing before prior to going to hardline and found it to be really good, no leaching or anything like that at least not when used with EK Cryofuel coolant. Finger tight is enough for the fittings especially if using compression fittings as they have a barb on them as well, after about a week of use go over them again just to make sure they are tight. I cant stress enough to do a leak test before powering up your new p.c :)
 

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Fitting that have an o-ring on them only need to be hand tight (snug). The o-ring dose the sealing. Over tightening and you can crush or deform the o-ring. Over tightening can cause the fitting to leak. I have never used a tool to tighten any of my fitting. If you have to use a tool there is an issue with the fitting or o-ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Measure the soft tubing by actually putting in position so to speak and add about 5mm extra in total, leave a bit of slack as you dont want any kinks in it that will restrict water flow, as mentioned previously you will waste a bit of tubing by doing this but its not exactly expensive so not really an issue. I have never heard of rotary fittings ever being soaked in water before use but probably wouldn't hurt. I have used primochill LRT tubing before prior to going to hardline and found it to be really good, no leaching or anything like that at least not when used with EK Cryofuel coolant. Finger tight is enough for the fittings especially if using compression fittings as they have a barb on them as well, after about a week of use go over them again just to make sure they are tight. I cant stress enough to do a leak test before powering up your new p.c :)
Got it. And that's 5mm extra for the whole tubing length (not 5mm on each side of the tubing), correct?

I forgot where I read about the soaking thing but I could've sworn that it was mentioned to me (in this very forum) by a hardware rep. It could've been Mayems or Watercool Jakob but I really forgot and couldn't find the post anymore.

Fitting that have an o-ring on them only need to be hand tight (snug). The o-ring dose the sealing. Over tightening and you can crush or deform the o-ring. Over tightening can cause the fitting to leak. I have never used a tool to tighten any of my fitting. If you have to use a tool there is an issue with the fitting or o-ring.
Thanks for the heads up, that's what I thought.
 

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Got it. And that's 5mm extra for the whole tubing length (not 5mm on each side of the tubing), correct?

I forgot where I read about the soaking thing but I could've sworn that it was mentioned to me (in this very forum) by a hardware rep. It could've been Mayems or Watercool Jakob but I really forgot and couldn't find the post anymore.



Thanks for the heads up, that's what I thought.
5mm overall is enough, length of soft tubing runs really is not all that critical so long as it's not too long to enable it kink and cause a restriction.
 

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I've just finished my first liquid cooler using only distilled water, a mix of different brands for cooling.
Very basic setup, but first time into water cooling.

Barrow hard tube compressed fittings 3 and 4 O-ring
Barrow hard tubing
Alphacool radiator 120
2 EK-Vardar EVO 120ER White (2200rpm) Radiator Fan and case fan
Custom made N case M1 reservoir
XSPC Raystorm Pro solid copper CPU water block in use
Alphacool Eisbear solo and Barrow Nickle plated copper water block not in use
DC LT ceramic motor with plexitop.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've just finished my first liquid cooler using only distilled water, a mix of different brands for cooling.
Very basic setup, but first time into water cooling.

Barrow hard tube compressed fittings 3 and 4 O-ring
Barrow hard tubing
Alphacool radiator 120
2 EK-Vardar EVO 120ER White (2200rpm) Radiator Fan and case fan
Custom made N case M1 reservoir
XSPC Raystorm Pro solid copper CPU water block in use
Alphacool Eisbear solo and Barrow Nickle plated copper water block not in use
DC LT ceramic motor with plexitop.
I'm envious of your courage to go with hard tubing the first time around :) I'm a coward and settled for soft tubing. Congrats though!
 

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I've just finished my first liquid cooler using only distilled water, a mix of different brands for cooling.
Very basic setup, but first time into water cooling.

Barrow hard tube compressed fittings 3 and 4 O-ring
Barrow hard tubing
Alphacool radiator 120
2 EK-Vardar EVO 120ER White (2200rpm) Radiator Fan and case fan
Custom made N case M1 reservoir
XSPC Raystorm Pro solid copper CPU water block in use
Alphacool Eisbear solo and Barrow Nickle plated copper water block not in use
DC LT ceramic motor with plexitop.
Very nice first build, clean and professional looking. Great work!
 

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Getting back to the question at hand,

I agree on the 3/8, 5/8 tubing if you are going to use soft tubing. I have used Primochill Advanced LRT for some time now with no issues although Mayhems also makes good tubing.

I suck with rigid tubing but there is a ton of information on the forum if you are interested. I might save that for your next build.

I never soak my connectors. If you do I'd dry them very well before installing.

Check all of your connections twice once you get your loop assembled.

Pressure test your loop with Air if you can. If you can't afford the parts to make the air testing rig, test with fluid, but don't connect the power supply to anything but the pump and make liberal use of paper towels under the connections to protect your components. Let the loop run for a while to determine if
there are leaks. Toilet paper makes a good cheap leak detector as it deforms when wet.

Any fluid can give you issues in your loop. It's an exercise in chemistry. You have dissimilar metals in a system and are circulating water in that system. You will either need to manage the pH in the loop or opt for a more foolproof option like antifreeze although that is no guarantee. If you use vinegar at any time to flush your loop, or any of the commercial loop cleaners you can run into issues with pH in your loop down the road. There is a great post here on managing pH if you truly want no issues with your loop.

Take your time. Be patient. Ask questions. As toolmaker suggested none of your fittings should be under stress from the tubing other than the weight of the tubing so if you cut a length to short, cut it again.

The area I build my systems in is a disaster area because we also use it for storage, and I use the same bench to clean my guns. It helps to keep at least one surface clean to assemble your system on though. :)

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Getting back to the question at hand,

I agree on the 3/8, 5/8 tubing if you are going to use soft tubing. I have used Primochill Advanced LRT for some time now with no issues although Mayhems also makes good tubing.

I suck with rigid tubing but there is a ton of information on the forum if you are interested. I might save that for your next build.

I never soak my connectors. If you do I'd dry them very well before installing.

Check all of your connections twice once you get your loop assembled.

Pressure test your loop with Air if you can. If you can't afford the parts to make the air testing rig, test with fluid, but don't connect the power supply to anything but the pump and make liberal use of paper towels under the connections to protect your components. Let the loop run for a while to determine if
there are leaks. Toilet paper makes a good cheap leak detector as it deforms when wet.

Any fluid can give you issues in your loop. It's an exercise in chemistry. You have dissimilar metals in a system and are circulating water in that system. You will either need to manage the pH in the loop or opt for a more foolproof option like antifreeze although that is no guarantee. If you use vinegar at any time to flush your loop, or any of the commercial loop cleaners you can run into issues with pH in your loop down the road. There is a great post here on managing pH if you truly want no issues with your loop.

Take your time. Be patient. Ask questions. As toolmaker suggested none of your fittings should be under stress from the tubing other than the weight of the tubing so if you cut a length to short, cut it again.

The area I build my systems in is a disaster area because we also use it for storage, and I use the same bench to clean my guns. It helps to keep at least one surface clean to assemble your system on though. :)

Good luck!
Thanks for the suggestions. Although I just want to say these:

* I already have all (at least that I know of) components needed:
1. 3/8 5/8 Mayhems Clear Tubing
2. Dr. Drop Air Pressure Tester
3. Mayhems Blitz Kit (which I just had used to clean my radiators)
4. Mayhems Pastel

So you can say I'm not cheaping out on anything ;)

You're right about soaking the connectors in that I should really wipe them dry before they even come near the system. I just don't know if there's any advantage to doing any soaking but pre-lubrication does make a lot of sense when rotating the rotary fittings.

As for the radiators, here's what I did yesterday:

1. Got the Black Ice Nemesis GTS 280mm Xflow and GTS 360mm Uflow brand new out of the box.
2. Flushed each of them (filled and shaked the hell out of them) with distilled water for around two times.
3. Used Blitz Part 1
4. Rinse with distilled water for 4 times each.

I hope they're squeaky clean now :)
 
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