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Yes you would be right if i had my new computer finished and just missing the fans controller, but that´s not my case , the new pc will not be done before June or July .
The latest english manual talks about Aquasuite and the Aquaero I think if you have not looked at it;Originally Posted by avielcs
Hi all
Just got my AQ6, after reading all the threads and me being a noob in watercooling i would to know if someone has any other links to tutorials/manuals for the AQ6?
I've tried the ones posted in the first thread but still found my self a bit overwlmed by it.
Do you know a more basic manual ? In english i mean.
Hope you could help me
Many thanks
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It's good to go, even doubles and triples work OK . . . . . It's in the "Compatible" list.
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Welcome aboard everyone.Originally Posted by avielcs
Hi all
Just got my AQ6, after reading all the threads and me being a noob in watercooling i would to know if someone has any other links to tutorials/manuals for the AQ6?
I've tried the ones posted in the first thread but still found my self a bit overwlmed by it.
Do you know a more basic manual ? In english i mean.
Hope you could help me
Many thanks
Yes, . . . .
I LOVE your black and white theme, its so austere and businessy, I almost bought some Corsair White AX860 (Seasonic Platinum) PSU cables for my rig from Performance PCs and went that direction, but decided to wait until I get into the new CaseLabs Gemini.
Sweet modOriginally Posted by IT Diva
Yes, . . . .
There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
For the capable DIY'er . . .
While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
Hope that helps,
Darlene
The green and blue wires are the PWM and tach wire for the D5 connector.Originally Posted by chimaychanga
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Sweet modOriginally Posted by IT Diva
Yes, . . . .
There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
For the capable DIY'er . . .
While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
Hope that helps,
Darleneso i don't need to buy the Aquacomputer D5 pump after all![]()
I actually have electronics as one of my subjects in school so I can easily get the resistors needed. But im a bit confused on the diode part ? and what are these green and blue cables.. lawl electronics is still new to me as you can see
...thanks for the props Bruce![]()
Hardware Info 64 seems to have the most points of reference out of the freeware utilities, including VRM temps. I have had issues trying to sync AIDA for w/e reason i'm not sure. Maybe because iv'e only tried using the freeware versions.