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Conductivity and WQ means you need to flush it out some more. I had the same thing and it took a couple fill and drains with DW to get it to 100% WQ and after about a month its at 98%.
3 D5s and none of mine can be heard, they are all on dampened mounts though and get me 325L/hr with a filter, CPU block (high restriction Optimus ATM, two HK GPU blocks and 4 rads with a double pass GTR 420 being the most restrictive.
Yeah mine are on dampened mounts as well, all give off a hum at 100% still likely won’t run them that high. Am seeing about 333L/hr with no blocks, 6 GTX radiators and a GTS, plus about 10-15 90 degree fits atm.
I’ll do a few more flushes and see if I can get closer to 100% quality, only a temp setup till my KPE block and I’ll switch to XTR fluid.

It’s interesting watching how much heat the D5’s dump into the loop, about 5 degrees or so after a couple hours.
 

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Yeah mine are on dampened mounts as well, all give off a hum at 100% still likely won’t run them that high. Am seeing about 333L/hr with no blocks, 6 GTX radiators and a GTS, plus about 10-15 90 degree fits atm.
I’ll do a few more flushes and see if I can get closer to 100% quality, only a temp setup till my KPE block and I’ll switch to XTR fluid.

It’s interesting watching how much heat the D5’s dump into the loop, about 5 degrees or so after a couple hours.
I found the same thing. That little pump top test I did had only a reservoir initially, but it didn't take long for the alarm (50C) to sound, so I had to install a radiator. Them little buggers put out quite a bit of heat.
 

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I found the same thing. That little pump top test I did had only a reservoir initially, but it didn't take long for the alarm (50C) to sound, so I has to install a radiator. Them little buggers put out quite a bit of heat.
Yeah I was surprised how much they heated up the loop. This was with 7 radiators as well, though no fans but still 5 degrees in a few hours is more then I expected. Will have to leave it over night and see how much more it’ll heat up
 

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Yeah I was surprised how much they heated up the loop. This was with 7 radiators as well, though no fans but still 5 degrees in a few hours is more then I expected. Will have to leave it over night and see how much more it’ll heat up
I didn’t notice any additional heat when you compare a loaded 10980XE amd pair or 2080Tis. If I leave my in an idle state with 3 pumps running my loop temp is only 1C above ambient and will stay there for a week if I leave it. Now if I cut the fans well that’s just common sense that no matter what pump you use friction of water moving is going to add heat. I don’t know many that rely on completely passive rads. I run 3 D5s ATM with 1st (Next mounted to bottom of HK tube res) at 100%, that feeds into the inlet of a dual serial bitspower top with two primochill enchanted D5s with 1st at 95% and second at 90%). I don’t hear Jack unless I open up my case and use a screwdriver up against the pump to my ear (mechanics stethoscope) I don’t have them set to ramp up and down, they are on a static speed. The staggering also aids in noise cancellation and won’t be the same for any giving loop. All about audio harmonics. Same principle used with noise cancellation on headphones and harmonic filtering of electronic circuits. There is no difference on any of my pumps RPMs once I drop below 60%. I’ve seen this on multiple pumps by different manufacturers and doesn’t matter how I control the PWM. 2200RPMs or so is as low as they go and max out around 4800. I’ve read a lot of folks talking about all the heat they add and all the noise but since I bought my Laing D5 when I stopped using a fish pond pump I’ve not noted much heat at all and as the industry has evolved they have become quieter and 100% guaranteed that running multiples offset will reduce noise even further. Even if you have non PWM pumps buy two different brands as the noise signatures will be different and just a slight offset in frequency will dampen its acoustical signature. What I will say is I run only the D5 next 100% is quiter than 90% and if I’m running only that pump 80% is the sweet spot. Go less and I lose the higher pitched sound and start getting the Frank Zappa “ Dynamo Hum” I got $40 says you can make me uhhhhh don’t wanna get banned 😂

I would also add that if I had one doing the dynamo hum throughout its range especially at high speeds I’d be sending that sucker back as that means the impeller is imbalanced. No different than a car tire. It’s a magneto drive sitting atop a cermic bearing. If the impeller is perfectly balanced the only sound you should hear is water moving.

quietest system I ever had had zero fans and the pump was in the basement. Totally passive geothermal loop. 1/4 HP pump sitting atop a 5 gal bucket in the basement with copper tubing running up a chase to the second floor and a low voltage thermostat Wire running down. 12V output when system started pulled in a relay to run the 120V pump in the basement that for what it was was quiet but I heard nothing two floors up. What replaced rads as stainless floor heating grids that I put in when I had to bust up the concrete in my basement for an unrelated project with redirecting the sump pump discharge. I’m like *** and tried it. Best liquid cooled system I’ve ever had. Totally silent from my desk and the dirt under the concrete in the basement is 18C all year with the floor heating grid having a surface area of 120 sqft (10x12). Worlds only geothermal cooled PC. Then I moved everything and the room I’m in has a cathedral ceiling so I can’t extend the tubing without busting out some of the ceiling and wall, just not with all that.
 

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I didn’t notice any additional heat when you compare a loaded 10980XE amd pair or 2080Tis. If I leave my in an idle state with 3 pumps running my loop temp is only 1C above ambient and will stay there for a week if I leave it. Now if I cut the fans well that’s just common sense that no matter what pump you use friction of water moving is going to add heat. I don’t know many that rely on completely passive rads. I run 3 D5s ATM with 1st (Next mounted to bottom of HK tube res) at 100%, that feeds into the inlet of a dual serial bitspower top with two primochill enchanted D5s with 1st at 95% and second at 90%). I don’t hear Jack unless I open up my case and use a screwdriver up against the pump to my ear (mechanics stethoscope) I don’t have them set to ramp up and down, they are on a static speed. The staggering also aids in noise cancellation and won’t be the same for any giving loop. All about audio harmonics. Same principle used with noise cancellation on headphones and harmonic filtering of electronic circuits. There is no difference on any of my pumps RPMs once I drop below 60%. I’ve seen this on multiple pumps by different manufacturers and doesn’t matter how I control the PWM. 2200RPMs or so is as low as they go and max out around 4800. I’ve read a lot of folks talking about all the heat they add and all the noise but since I bought my Laing D5 when I stopped using a fish pond pump I’ve not noted much heat at all and as the industry has evolved they have become quieter and 100% guaranteed that running multiples offset will reduce noise even further. Even if you have non PWM pumps buy two different brands as the noise signatures will be different and just a slight offset in frequency will dampen its acoustical signature. What I will say is I run only the D5 next 100% is quiter than 90% and if I’m running only that pump 80% is the sweet spot. Go less and I lose the higher pitched sound and start getting the Frank Zappa “ Dynamo Hum” I got $40 says you can make me uhhhhh don’t wanna get banned 😂

I would also add that if I had one doing the dynamo hum throughout its range especially at high speeds I’d be sending that sucker back as that means the impeller is imbalanced. No different than a car tire. It’s a magneto drive sitting atop a cermic bearing. If the impeller is perfectly balanced the only sound you should hear is water moving.

quietest system I ever had had zero fans and the pump was in the basement. Totally passive geothermal loop. 1/4 HP pump sitting atop a 5 gal bucket in the basement with copper tubing running up a chase to the second floor and a low voltage thermostat Wire running down. 12V output when system started pulled in a relay to run the 120V pump in the basement that for what it was was quiet but I heard nothing two floors up. What replaced rads as stainless floor heating grids that I put in when I had to bust up the concrete in my basement for an unrelated project with redirecting the sump pump discharge. I’m like *** and tried it. Best liquid cooled system I’ve ever had. Totally silent from my desk and the dirt under the concrete in the basement is 18C all year with the floor heating grid having a surface area of 120 sqft (10x12). Worlds only geothermal cooled PC. Then I moved everything and the room I’m in has a cathedral ceiling so I can’t extend the tubing without busting out some of the ceiling and wall, just not with all that.
I'll never run my system passive, was just interesting how quickly the 4 heated up the loop. After one flush I'm up to 100% water quality and like 24 parts conductivity. Hum seems to have gone away as well. Funny how one day can change so much.
 

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Thinking about getting some bequiet silent wings 3 fans for my case. The Corsair AF120 Quiet fans I'm using now aren't pushing enough air. Do the PWM version of these still have issues with the Aquaero?
 

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You want some air movement get the Noctua AF-14 2000rpm PWM industrial fans. Those will blow your hair back! Have 9 on splittys connected to one output on an AQ6 pro and others on an OCTO with more splittys as well as PWM D5 pumps.
Those fans have some annoying motor noise though, so if this is something one gets annoyed by I'd rather suggest the Corsair ML120 Pro. Those are 2000 RPM / PWM as well and move a lot of air and you can't hear the motor at all.
 

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Those fans have some annoying motor noise though, so if this is something one gets annoyed by I'd rather suggest the Corsair ML120 Pro. Those are 2000 RPM / PWM as well and move a lot of air and you can't hear the motor at all.
Never noticed any annoying motor noise on mine. Just the normal Noctua sound signature
 

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So I'm finally moving back to a water cooling loop on my PC after my last pump died and dumped water all over my GPU. Now that I no longer have my Mini PC I have my 6xt I can put in my big pc as well but have a question about the flow sensor. Should I have it on the feed from the pump or the return back to the res or does it matter? Really I just want to know what the flow is so I can setup my PC to shut off if it drops to zero.
 

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So I'm finally moving back to a water cooling loop on my PC after my last pump died and dumped water all over my GPU. Now that I no longer have my Mini PC I have my 6xt I can put in my big pc as well but have a question about the flow sensor. Should I have it on the feed from the pump or the return back to the res or does it matter? Really I just want to know what the flow is so I can setup my PC to shut off if it drops to zero.
Since water doesn't really compress, you willl have the same flow rate throughout your loop.
So you can place your flow sensor anywhere in the loop with the same result.
 

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Those fans have some annoying motor noise though, so if this is something one gets annoyed by I'd rather suggest the Corsair ML120 Pro. Those are 2000 RPM / PWM as well and move a lot of air and you can't hear the motor at all.
Ive run both, AF14 and ML120 arent in the same ball park. One is 140 and the other is 120. The Nocutua has a higher pressure and CFMs. None of them get noisy until you run up the speed. ML 120s been around for awhile I was running them several years ago in a 900D case. They are decent fans but the spec sheet comparison tells the story. I was after the static pressure this time. The Noctua industrial are fairly new on the market.

You wanna buy some used ones? I only have about 20 of them though.
 

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So I got the water block running and everything going but have a few issues I need to work through. The first most annoying thing is the damn flow sensor has a very audiable clicking that wouldn't go away. I finally got it quiet though, had to reverse the flow and set it upside down. Second thing I got the aquacomputer D5 pump with aquabus interface but I cant seem to get aquasuite to control the pump flow at all. I hooked it up with USB then changed to aquabus and changed the port but no matter where I move the slider it keeps at 100% and 3690 RPM. I read that having no adjustment and pump stuck at 3600 rpm could be a sign of a bad controller so I hope that's not the case. I may try and hook it back up to USB and see if I can control it that way instead.
 

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Welp after fussing with the pumps for a while I finally decided to just hook up the GPU loop pump and just loop the water lines since I dont have GPU waterblock yet. The d5 pump that I have in that loop is able to be ran just fine through aquaero so that confirms to me I bought a faulty water pump. I guess that's the dangers of Ebay. I dont suppose its possible to repair the controller on the pump easily is there? The good news is where it is now im getting 215lph of flow out of it which is where I want to be anyway so I guess ill leave it as is.
 

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Welp after fussing with the pumps for a while I finally decided to just hook up the GPU loop pump and just loop the water lines since I dont have GPU waterblock yet. The d5 pump that I have in that loop is able to be ran just fine through aquaero so that confirms to me I bought a faulty water pump. I guess that's the dangers of Ebay. I dont suppose its possible to repair the controller on the pump easily is there? The good news is where it is now im getting 215lph of flow out of it which is where I want to be anyway so I guess ill leave it as is.
If it is the D5 Next pump you can purchase a replacement controller here
Replacement controller for D5 NEXT pump
 

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The more AC gear you get the more complicated it is to get it all working. All 4 pumps, High flow next and a Quadro show up in Aquasuite, two Aqueros and 2nd Quadro are giving me USB errors . Both Aqueros are on a separate Hubby7, while the rest share another one. Just swapped the Aquero Hubby and still have the issue so swapping cables next I guess. Going to try them 1 by 1 this weekend in the hopes to having it all working.
If not I'll program each one and then leave them disconnected.

Strangely only one pump lists it as being controlled by Aquabus when two should be but the Aquero isn't showing as connected.
 
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